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]]>We begin with the Smoke and Mirrors at Mister A’s. “[We balance] mezcal and rye whiskey … with vermouth and dry curaçao,” says bar lead Alvin Pugeda. “We add a few dashes of Havana and Hide bitters, which lends a tobacco finish. The cocktail is finished with smoked hoja santa, imparting an anisette and pepper aroma.”
Pugeda says the Cheeto Fingers—a violently orange blend of tamarind mezcal, Fresno chile, cucumber, lime, and agave—at The Lion’s Share in downtown offers “a great balance between spicy, funky, juicy, and savory flavors.”The sip gets its cheddar hue from the fermented Fresno juice. “My coworker said it looked like Cheeto water,” adds bartender Cassandra Feather. “That sounded so gross I changed it to Cheeto Fingers—the signature acid-orange finger pads you get from mowing through a bag.”
Feather recently popped by North Park newcomer Happy Medium, where she fell in love with the Lazy Suzan. “It’s a bright, imaginative, and interesting rum cocktail,” she says. “It has [melon] and celery bitters. I found myself craving another after I’d gone.” The sip gets its name from Suze, a unique, bittersweet French aperitif.
Happy Medium owner Christian Siglin doesn’t have to travel far for his favorite drink. He traverses a few North Park streets to get to Mabel’s Gone Fishing, where he orders a gin-and-sherry gimlet, finished with makrut, cardamom, and lime. “[It’s] an interesting take on an old classic: slightly salty with plenty of acid to keep me coming back,” Siglin says. “It pairs great with their oysters, as well.”
Embracing all things retro is an unwritten requirement at this red-lit, 1950s-era Golden Hill haunt for DIY
steaks. It’s no surprise Mabel’s Gone Fishing bar lead Anna Canrinus sticks to a beloved standby here. “They shake the martini, so tiny ice chips form on the surface and it’s very pleasant,” she says. “I like to grill up a ribeye when I’m at Turf Club, and the bleu cheese olives pair beautifully.”
For a night out in North Park, Turf Club bartender Jesse Ross recs Botanica’s Pomona, “a memorable cachaca, sherry, guava, Cinnamon Toast Crunch situation that’s punchy and somehow delicate at the same time—a total party in your mouth,” he says. “Marina Ferreira’s drinks are all bangers, and all the menu cocktails are accompanied by pretty pictures, which I love. Pro tip: Get the tempura olives.”
Ferreira, Botanica’s general manager and a self-professed “huge dirty martini fan,” appreciates Convoy speakeasy Realm of the 52 Remedies’ twist on an old standby: negi-infused gin, cocchi Americano, sansho oil, and housemade Japanese brine, with a teensy serving of pickled green onion. “It just hits it on the head of being interesting, yet familiar, eye-opening, and still comforting,” she says. “The balance between salinity and softness is incredible. Not to mention there’s a snack on the side.”
Diners often sing the praises of the housemade limoncello at La Jolla Italian joint Marisi, but Realm bartender Jonny Nguyen opts for the sparkling wine–based Hugo Spritz. “It’s a simple yet elegant cocktail that gets a touch of bright herbal flavors from basil and stone fruit from elderflower,” he says. “That liquid gets fully carbonated to order, making every sip as crispy as the last.”
“Andrew Cordero—the beverage director at Jeune et Jolie and Campfire—is one of the best recipe guys in San Diego,” says Marisi’s director of bar logistics, Derek Cram. “His old fashioned adds plenty of intrigue with a bourbon and cognac split-liquor base, cacao, and hazelnut, all while exercising restraint and keeping it within the comforting confines of an old fashioned template.”
From their cave-like perch in the back of Little Italy’s Craft & Commerce, False Idol’s bartenders mix orange-and chai-infused bourbon with pear brandy, lemon, orange, and gardenia to produce the orchid-adorned Polynesian Forty Niner. “It’s tropical and juicy with a hint of chai spice,” Cordero says. “It’s almost like a buttery Good Humor Creamsicle Bar.”
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]]>I realize this is a pretty apocalyptic way to introduce our annual celebration of local food and drink culture—our bible of San Diego’s best restaurant, with its attendant bao bun psalms and birria haikus.
But that lurking doomery only underscores the heights San Diego’s restaurant culture has finally reached. It’s never been harder to operate a restaurant, and yet our food and drink people made national headlines and hype reels again. It has not always been this way. After eras of deep-fried pain, we’re in a far better place.
Why? Because our seafood’s right there. Because our produce is among the best on the planet—and any cook will tell ya that using the world’s best ingredients is like running a 100-yard dash and starting at the 40-yard line. That’s why the top chefs have come. Plus, moms and pops who started cooking furiously four years ago (due to The Terrible Thing) are opening kitchens. The proximity to Mexico’s fire and ash and stew culture never hurts. So many reasons.
This list is a citywide tradition we’re honored to keep. You guys picked your favorites (with 41,000-plus votes, a new record), and I picked mine.
I switched it up a bit. I left out a few that have become institutional and duh-of-course. Once Addison landed three Michelin stars, no one needed to be told to go there. Same with Jeune et Jolie, a pinnacle of Frenchishness. I politely placed them over on Mt. Olympus and made room for other places that deserve that spotlight.
I’ve been lucky enough to document, study, and tell stories about food and drink for almost two decades. I did the math recently and realized I’d been to thousands of restaurants, tried tens of thousands of dishes. It’s been an obscenely obsessive career without complaints.
I know food better than I know myself. That said, I’ll never pretend my list is somehow the only valid take. It’s just mine. It’s the list I keep in my pocket and constantly update as I eat my way through the city and send to friends when they come to town and ask, “What should I eat in San Diego?”
I urge you to make your own. –Troy Johnson
You voted. Food critic Troy Johnson picked his favorites. We chose the must-try dishes at some of San Diego’s best restaurants and unpacked the people and trends changing our city’s dining scene for the better. Hope you’re hungry, because it’s time to dig in.
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