In a bright, sunny café in Poway, a cartoon goose peers impishly at you over a mirror. The speech bubble above the goose says, “We are so alike.” It’s instantly delightful.
“We were looking for something with a subtle Ukrainian touch, but not something that would feel too themed or unfamiliar to local guests,” says Anton Ocheretin, who co-owns the café with his wife, Mariia, and friends Taras and Natalie Alipin, who are also married. Like many children in Ukraine, the Ocheretins and the Alipins spent their summers in the countryside with their grandparents. I remember similar Ukrainian summers—darting through fields; getting underfoot; and being lovingly scolded for smearing raspberries, blackberries, and cherry juice all over my clothes.
“And there were always geese around,” Anton reminisces. “It’s a nostalgic, cozy memory for us. Geese are always looking for food, and our name is Need to Eat.”
The menu includes shakshuka and syrniki, Ukranian cottage cheese pancakes.
The team behind Need to Eat wear a lot of hats: business partners, innovators, longtime friends. They first crossed paths as a foursome in 2008 as students at Ukraine’s National Science Center Kharkiv Institute of Physics and Technology (formerly the Ukrainian Physics and Technology Institute), where they discovered their shared love for food and cooking. “Not just cooking, but the culture behind it,” Anton adds. “We started going on trips together, visited cities, bakeries, restaurants. Talking to people—the best in everything. That’s how the dream slowly took shape.”
Taras describes the team with terminology reminiscent of a heist crew. Everyone has their specialty: Mariia is the “pastry guru” and Anton is the “paper man” and barista, juggling the business side of the café and its drink menu. Natalie is the “visionary” responsible for the café’s look.
From left to right, Taras and Natalie Alipin and Mariia and Anton Ocheretin.
Taras calls himself “brain chef,” laughing. “I create the menu, teach our line cooks, and prepare food myself,” he adds. He’s also a dedicated teacher who speaks passionately about the cooking classes that he and Natalie conducted in Ukraine for both adults and children. They carried on the tradition in the US by introducing a gingerbread class for kids during the winter holidays. One lesson he works to impart is that cooking is both an art and a science. Taras describes himself as a “food technologist”—cooking, he tells me, is all “chemistry inside the food.”
I do my best to get a glimpse of the process—where do the ideas for the recipes come from? Like a true artist, Taras shrugs. “From my head,” he says. “Just try things.”
Mariia is the team’s pastry savant.
Co-managing Need to Eat isn’t the quartet’s first time working together. In Ukraine, Anton and Mariia ran a pastry shop before connecting with Taras and Natalie to help a friend open a restaurant. “We made it, I think, six months working together before we started working separately,” Taras shares. The experience opened the door to a shared dream and partnership.
As conflict loomed in Ukraine, the team decided to make good on that vision by opening a café together in San Diego County. “When the war started, we decided [that] we had to leave Ukraine,” Anton says. “Unfortunately, we had to rebuild our lives somewhere new, and we wanted it to be a place where it’s possible to start a business—it’s our major goal.” Need to Eat Cafe became the child of both opportunity and necessity, merging the team’s culinary interests and Ukrainian roots.
When you visit, Anton suggests starting with a plate of syrniki—similar to an American pancake but made of cottage cheese. “I honestly think they have a potential to become a global breakfast favorite,” Anton promises.
I have to be honest with Anton and Taras—syrniki are my family’s signature breakfast dish, and it’s tough competition (even though I can’t remember the last time that my papa’s syrniki weren’t just a teensy bit burnt). It’s a true Ukrainian breakfast. The cottage cheese that comes to mind is not the packaged, pasteurized, and TikTok-ified protein hack. I remember my great-grandmother’s hands as she milked our cow each day and hung up the cheesecloth, turning it now and again, and then shaping the syrniki into the delicious patties that I would dip in honey or milk in the morning. “Everyone in Ukraine eats it for breakfast,” Taras says.
In addition to serving Ukranian classics like borscht, the couples draw culinary inspiration from other parts of the globe.
Now, that’s true not just in Ukraine—in Poway, syrniki arrive drenched in caramel and summer berries. Guests and geese with a savory tooth can enjoy Ukrainian-style dumplings stuffed with potatoes and mushrooms, meat, or (a real childhood delicacy for every kid being fed by their grandparents in Ukraine) sour cherries. The spread of pastries is tempting behind the shop’s glass case. Anton and Mariia are “passionate about desserts,” he tells me, and they are continually “experiment[ing] with unusual flavor pairings.” The menu changes seasonally, inviting patrons for a return visit.
The team is planning to bring the café to San Diego proper. Anton shares the vision for a new location in downtown: “A cute breakfast place with a friendly atmosphere [and a] great breakfast selection, which also contains some Ukrainian-style breakfast,” he says. The rest of the plans are a surprise—it might have a different concept, a fresh design, and even a brand-new menu.
This means that the goose may not be visiting San Diego along with the new outpost. “That’s still an open question,” Anton says.
A part of me is rooting for the goose—many of them are migratory birds, after all. They spread their wings and travel with the chill of autumn, like the magic swan-geese of Ukrainian fairy tales, carving the path to a new home. Need to Eat Cafe’s friendly goose followed the team to San Diego, built a nest here, and laid the table for guests.
