Before you bludgeon me with marrow bones, know that I am an omnivore. Sure, I eat mostly veggies and grains two-thirds of the day, as recommended by experts far smarter than myself. But pork belly and rib-eyes and roasted chicken are firmly fastened to my food soul. I’d have to switch jobs and families to become a full-time vegetarian, plus take an online course in piety. I am, however, someone who studies the sustainability of food. In that pursuit, I’ve found that ignorance is by far the tastiest option.
Here’s a sample of the statistics on animal agriculture:
Globally, animal agriculture is the second-highest greenhouse gas producer (deforestation is first). The impact isn’t as big in developed countries like the U.S. (6 percent of emissions), but it ain’t small.
Beef requires 28 times more land and six times more fertilizer than producing pork or chicken.
Producing beef releases four times more greenhouse gases than the calorie-equivalent of pork (and five times as much as chicken).
Lamb is the worst in terms of environmental impact, according to the Environmental Work Group.
Growing vegetables releases 3-5 times lower emissions than chicken or pork.
Cheese is the third-highest greenhouse producer in terms of food.
Americans consume 60 percent more meat than Europeans.
If you eat one less burger a week, it’s like taking your car off the road for 320 miles.
If everyone in the U.S. ate no meat or cheese one day a week, it would have the same environmental impact as not driving 91 billion miles.
Beef is delicious.
Does this mean we should all file our incisors down and eat nothing but crickets at Tacos Perla? Monkishly pursue life as human Priuses? Not necessarily. Even vegans drive cars, which aren’t exactly a B12 shot for the environment. Every human makes their own choices on what sort of tattoo they will leave on the planet. But, from an environmental and health standpoint, evidence suggests meat—especially lamb or beef—should be a side dish, not the whole show. Show me a climatologist who suggests eating more meatloaf, and I will show you a climatologist in ethical decline.
It means we’re gonna have to pump the brakes on burger mania at some point. And, one day, steakhouses may struggle to maintain regular clientele.
It also means things like this happen. Trish Watlington just shut down her Mission Hills steakhouse, Wellington Steak + Martini Lounge, converting it into Bar by Red Door with casual bites. You could argue that the Wellington was an unwise use of space—charming room and good food, but not enough tables to be financially productive. You could also cite the fact that restaurants need to sell alcohol in order to survive, and the bar will now serve as a complement to her restaurant next door, The Red Door.
But Watlington, one of the city’s strongest advocates for sustainable food, says she couldn’t ethically justify operating a steakhouse anymore—especially in San Diego.
“You evolve over time,” she explains. “And we got to the point where if we’re truly going to be a regional restaurant, beef is the wrong product. Getting beef out of Wellington is not only better for the environment. But you can’t get local beef. San Diego doesn’t have grass because it doesn’t have water. It’s a never-ending frustration. And you certainly can’t get it on a level you need for a steak house. So you end up having to buy meat that I don’t want to put on the table.”
And so come late August, in its place will sit The Bar by Red Door, a farm-to-glass cocktail hangout with small bites from exec chef, Miguel Valdez. It’s probably a better complement to her business, and a more profitable one. But knowing Watlington’s track record of sustainable food activism, her statement about wanting to cut down her beef options doesn’t read like spin. The Red Door still serves a beef entrée, but she’s moving farther and farther away from the beef business.
Top farm-to-table restaurant expands its ethos to the glass
By Troy Johnson | Photography by Paul Body
The Red Door has been at the forefront of farm-to-table restaurants in San Diego since they opened. The lesser-known other half of their eat-drink haven was always The Wellington next door—a small, intimate, sexy little steakhouse.
And now owner Trish Watlington is getting out of the meat business, for ethical and practical reasons (meat being a pretty big tax on American ecology). So they took months transforming the place into Bar by Red Door.
It’ll have small plates, like a quinoa sope topped with Mary’s chicken, shallots, cilantro and poached egg; cactus salad with feta, jalapeno, garlic, shallots and strawberries, and grilled carrots with burrata, carrot-top pesto, Meyer lemon balsamic and toasted almonds.
But the focus will by farm-to-table cocktails from bartender Cervantes Magaña—ingredients from the garden (Red Door has their own and grow about half of the produce for the restaurant), house-made syrups and bitters, plus Southern California spirits.
It’s opens tonight. And here’s a sneak peek of the design.
The Red Door's Re-Source dinner sheds light on how much damn food we waste
By Troy Johnson
The stats on food waste are staggering. Almost 40 percent of the food in the U.S. is never eaten. In 2010, America wasted 33.79 million tons of food. That’s enough to fill the Empire State Building not once, not twice, but 91 times. If the U.S. wasted just 5 percent less food, it would be enough to feed 4 million people.
When you consider one in six Americans face hunger on a daily basis, the stats seem especially grotesque, if not cruel.
There are many reasons: preparing too much food and not eating the leftovers; throwing out food past its “use by” or “best by” date; badly prepared food, etc. But one of the more vapid and ridiculous reasons are that supermarkets refuse to sell “ugly” fruits and vegetables.
“Ugly” food, and food waste overall, is the driving ideas behind the upcoming “Re-Source” dinner on April 6 at The Red Door restaurant in Mission Hills. The four-course dinner (with bonus bites) will use perfectly good food that would otherwise go to waste.
Red Door owner Trish Watlington explains:
What’s the idea?
It’s a dinner made completely from food that would be unwanted, discarded or thrown away. The purpose is to demonstrate that the 50 percent of food that’s thrown away in the world doesn’t have to be—especially in light of all our talk about how we need to feed billions of people. So it’s to bring awareness to the issue and raise money for the SD Food System Alliance.
What kind of unused food?
We’ll be using pastry scraps from Cardamom Café, and citrus and bananas from Whole Foods in Del Mar. We’re not really sure, because we’ll have to wait until the day before to know what food is slated to be wasted. We have a great relationship with the farmers markets. You’ d be amazed at what the farmers markets throw away at the end of the day because the fruit or vegetable is bruised or cracked or a little soft in one spot. That’s food that’s perfectly fine. You could cut around the bruise or put them into dessert or applesauce.
Who else is involved?
Kitchens for Good. They’re a catering company and culinary education program. Their catering menus are predominantly made using food “waste” that’s donated to them—like crates of oranges that have fallen from trees.
How can the average joe waste less food.
If people would buy from farmers markets, a lot more food wouldn’t get wasted. Standard size doesn’t apply at farmers markets. For fruits and veggies to go to the grocery store, they have to be a standard size, or they go into the trash. So that’s an opportunity.
Why’s it important to you?
Food waste is near and dear to my heart. My mom was raised in the Depression. She had the ethic of ‘you can’t waste anything, because we don’t have anything.’ In Europe, the ethic is that you only use what you have. We have gotten so far away from that as a society. Fortunately for me, our chef Miguel Valdez grew up the same way in a poor family, so he learned to make something out of nothing.
Food is a notorious diva to photograph. The wrong lighting can make José Andrés’ paella look like a jaundiced grain bowl. You could be staring at the best sandwich of your life, but shoot it from above and—hey, congrats on that abandoned piece of lettuce bread. A cottage meme industry has been built around the hilariously bad photos on review sites that make Michelin-star food look like Michelin tires.
Especially in a visual modern media world, food culture depends on great photographers capturing the painstaking work in equally deserving ways. We asked four of San Diego’s top food photographers for their favorite shot from another year of documenting what we eat.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
Kimberly Motos
Birdman Sandwich at Chick & Hawk
Getting this kind of shot takes a bit of yoga. Asana yourself into the corner, hold your breath, pray that a chef on the move doesn’t back into your light stand.
“You’re stepping into someone’s workspace during their busiest moments, so it’s a balance of being present to get the shot and being invisible to not slow anything down,” Kimberly Motos says.
The subject here is the Birdman sandwich from Chick & Hawk—hot fried chicken thigh, tangy slaw, kimchi comeback sauce, sweet and spicy pickles, potato brioche bun—getting a hearty dousing of its difference-maker seasoning. Motos captures the parts of the process that diners don’t usually see: the chaos behind something that looks so simple.
Photo Credit: Lucianna McIntosh
Lucianna McIntosh
Oysters + Jewel of the Sea Martini at The Fishery
“I love this image because it feels like a moment you want to step into,” says Lucianna McIntosh. A warm, sunny day at The Fishery in PB with oysters, caviar, and martinis. Yes, please.
The little details—the glass sweating a little, the direct afternoon light creating stark shadows, the oyster glistening on the tray—are the main characters. Instead of trying to overly control the setup, McIntosh “followed the light and lines that draw you in more,” she says. “This was one of those moments where everything lined up on its own for a second. I love it when the shadows end up being just as important as the food itself.”
Photo Credit: Eric Wolfinger
Eric Wolfinger
Herb-Roasted Golden Chicken at Fleurette
La Jolla native Eric Wolfinger—who won a James Beard Award for Tartine Bread, one of the most stunning bread books of all time—says he doesn’t have a signature style. His style is a conduit.
“I see my job is to translate the chef’s point of view into something you can feel,” he says.
For this shot, Fleurette chef Travis Swikard had one directive: cuisine du soleil (“cuisine of the sun”). With a spread of leeks vinaigrette, herb-roasted golden chicken, and beets, Wolfinger wanted to create a scene that felt straight out of the French Riviera, relaying the light, bright style of Swikard’s new spot.
Some bonus additions here: Extra lights—to add lots of warmth—and a clipping from an olive tree.
Photo Credit: Dee Sandoval
Dee Sandoval
Espresso Ice Cream at Lucien
Timing and light are everything in food photography. In Lucien—La Jolla’s tasting-menu-only restaurant with moody ambiance—a single strobe flash creates the ideal spotlight.
Dee Sandoval says she uses the “natural, just-plated energy” of the dish to “create a portrait of moment and craft.” That’s why this Mostra Ghost Bear espresso ice cream—with San José dark chocolate mousse, soy-miso caramel, and koji shoyu chocolate sauce—looks like it might dissolve halfway to your mouth.
Emma Veidt is an editor at San Diego Magazine. She earned her bachelor's and master's degrees from the Missouri School of Journalism. She loves running, hiking, and rock climbing, but really, she mostly loves encounters with the street cats around North Park.
Stake Chophouse & Bar isn’t your average steakhouse. Blue Bridge Hospitality’s Coronado outpost is a modern interpretation of a big-city steakhouse nestled in the heart of the small coastal community. The team at Stake has reimagined the whole steakhouse experience. By prioritizing a seasonal farm-to-table sourcing philosophy, a personalized guest experience, and unique service touches, like a formal steak presentation and a bespoke knife selection process, Stake distinguishes itself in a sea of steakhouses.
Exceptional steaks, including Wagyu from Japan, Australia, and the U.S., and fresh seafood flown in daily form the core of Stake’s culinary identity. The menu features a five-course omakase-style steak experience highlighting house favorites, plus an array of cuts, and classic steakhouse staples—think a wedge salad, baked potato, or pasta carbonara—refined for a contemporary palate without losing their traditional appeal. Stake focuses on seasonal sourcing from the region’s best family farms and specialty purveyors, and incorporates intentionally unexpected touches to create something truly unique.
“I challenge our chefs and myself to take it a step further in sourcing,” says Chef Ronnie Schwandt. “It’s important to us to highlight different farms, unique one-off farms—whether it’s cattle, strawberries, a local fisherman or from anywhere in the United States, we’re always trying to find that niche.”
Beyond the menu, Stake emphasizes outstanding service, says Vinny Spatafore, Director of Hospitality Operations. Staff maintains detailed notes, allowing them to remember guests by name, recall previous orders such as a favorite martini (also memorable for the customer since it’s served in an extra tall, distinctly-shaped glass), and celebrate special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries.
“When you have those points of topic that you remember about a guest, they appreciate that,” he says. “Our servers are really good with that—we have a couple servers who have been here since the beginning and they’ll remember somebody from years ago, their name, their kids’ names, where they live. I’m really thankful to have a great front of house staff.”
Award-winning wines, rare whiskeys, special events, and a complementary black car service that provides transportation for guests throughout Coronado add to Stake’s appeal.
Schwandt stresses that Stake offers more than a meal; they aim to give patrons something unforgettable.
“It starts when you walk up the stairs and are greeted by the hostess—that sets the tone for the night. Then you’re greeted by a server, who may know you by name, and can guide you through the menu and curate as they get to know you,” says Schwandt. “Most people leave kind of blown away; they leave feeling like they just had an experience. That’s the goal, right? Whether you’re serving smash burgers or high-end steak, you want somebody to leave thinking, Wow, that was awesome.”
I peel myself off my couch, crack my back, and force myself to the bar (23 years old, by the way). It’s a Friday night, and my smart watch is already informing me my body battery is critically low.
Nevertheless, party we must.
Because, to be fair, one of the best things about going out—dive bar, velvet-clad cocktail lounge, or anywhere in between—is the performance of it all. Watching a bartender shake and stir like it’s choreography, finishing the drink with a sprig or petal placed just so, feeling like your collection of mixers and spirits is worth pouring into the Holy Grail.
One of the worst things about going out, though? Being out.
So I thank God for the home bar.
No lines, no cover, no shouting your order over someone named Kyle who just discovered the AMF. No $19 cocktails that taste suspiciously like juice. Just me, my apartment (where I can play whatever music I want), and the quiet confidence of knowing I can make something decent without putting on real pants.
A home bar, I’ve learned, doesn’t have to be impressive. It just has to be intentional—a few bottles you actually like, some tried-and-true tools, and at least one drink you can make without Googling. That’s it. That’s the barrier to entry.
To create the ultimate home bar collection, we tapped the folks at San Diego cocktail supply shop Collins & Coupe to give us some of their recommendations. Pick and choose what you need, and start cocktailing.
Courtesy of Collins & Coupe
The Must-Haves
Shaker Tin
You won’t get very far in your cocktail-making-journey without shaker tins. Boston shakers (two pieces, tin-on-tin) and cobbler shakers (three pieces with a strainer and cap) are the most classic styles, but if you want to avoid the tins getting stuck (or creating a mess on the floor), Boston shakers are the way to go.
“Koriko Tins by Cocktail Kingdom are the gold standard for every bar worth their salt. Every new bar we help outfit with tools insists on this brand and model,” says Collins & Coupe co-owner Gary McIntire.
“These are handmade, 100 percent solid copper and will last a lifetime,” McIntire says. “Because they are solid, there is no plated finish to wear off, and they will only look more beautiful with age.”
Bar Spoon
According to the pros, don’t even bother getting bar spoons shorter than 12 inches. One foot long is the magic length to get the best stirring results: “Rule of thumb is at least 50 percent of the spoon should be out of the glass,” says McIntire.
Pulp in your orange juice? We’ll allow it. But in your cocktail? Smooth and strained is optimal. You have two choices here: Hawthorne strainers have a spring that attaches snugly to shaking tins; julep strainers have no tabs or springs (originally created to drink mint juleps before straws became commercially available).
We’ve all seen those seasoned bartenders with the arm tats and haughty demeanors who can assemble perfect drinks with their eyes shut. The rest of us, however, need training wheels. Jiggers—those hourglass-shaped measuring tools—make consistent cocktail-making easy, although cheap versions tend to be inaccurate. Don’t skimp out on these.
“Heavy-duty and made of one piece,” McIntire says. “We use [this jigger] in our classes and at home. It comes in a bell-shaped version and a Japanese version, which is tall and narrow.”
“Glassware is always essential to the cocktail experience,” says McIntire. The martini glass is an avatar for American hair-loosening for a reason: sleek, viciously “V,” and highly spillable (danger always looks good). To start, look for a coupe glass (the fancy cat bowl-looking thing), a highball (glassware with posture), and a rocks glass (the blue collar hero).
You know how Caesar dressing tastes way better when you don’t think about the fact that there are anchovies in it? The same goes for cocktails and raw egg whites. Some of your favorites rely on the frothy ingredient to shine (whiskey sours, gin fizzes, etc.). Mesh strainers help make that magic happen. According to McIntire, always get the conical version; the round, bowl style could cause spills.
Lili Kim is a content coordinator and writer for San Diego Magazine, with experience highlighting local businesses and communities. When not writing or shooting film, she is likely brewing her seventh cup of tea of the day or strolling along Sunset Cliffs.
San Diego’s coffee industry has yet to hit its ceiling. There are at least 850 coffee shops across the county (possibly over 1,000 at this point) and more specialty cafes and roasters seem to join the roster every other week.
Some newcomers, like Chance’s Coffee, focus on specialties like Vietnamese coffee; other stalwarts, like Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, have helped put the local coffee scene on the map with internationally acclaimed beans and baristas for 20 years. You can get a classic pour-over or an ultra, whipped cream–topped strawberry lavender basil blueberry matcha latte sprinkled with unicorn glitter—whatever your coffee style, San Diego’s got it… somewhere.
Steady State Roasting falls more in the former category, focusing on traceable, sustainable sourcing and no-nonsense roasting (no unicorn glitter here, sorry!). Founder and lead roaster Elliot Reinecke first started Steady State in a garage behind his house, roasting small batches until expanding slightly to a shared and not-quite-permitted space before landing in a lucky spot on State Street in Carlsbad.
Now, eight years later, Steady State is scaling up once more, opening its second cafe in San Marcos next to their roastery. The new location offers the same food and drink menu as the original Carlsbad location, and Reinecke says he plans to add an onsite bakery to bake items like English muffins and country loaves to supplement Prager Brothers’ more specialized pastries.
He doesn’t plan on opening more cafes, though. Rather, Reinecke plans to expand roasting operations and strategic sourcing. Currently, he sources beans from Colombia, Panama, across Africa, and as of this year, Costa Rica. “We’ve had Costa Rican coffee before, but we went to origin a few months ago and bought six different lots from there, all from really good high-end local farmers,” he explains.
The rising cost of sourcing does present some challenges, as does changes within coffee culture itself. Coffee has moved from a mass-market beverage to a highly personalized artisanal experience, but the current feeling is moving back towards focusing on quality over flashiness, says Reinecke.
If Reinecke’s prediction is right, coffee is headed on a similar trajectory to craft beer. Ten years ago, no one knew what Citra hops were. Now, even casual beer fans are versed in hop varieties, and that attention to detail is spilling over to coffee as well. How many of San Diego’s 1,000 coffee shops will remain once the unicorn glitter’s luster fades? My bet is on anyone remaining steadfast to sourcing, sustainability, and simplicity.
Steady State San Marcos is now open at 1320 Grand Avenue, Suite #9, San Marcos. Initial operating hours are Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Sake lovers would do well to keep September 27 open. The 10-year anniversary of the San Diego Sake Festival is coming to Julep Venue in Mission Hills with over 150 different sakes and shochus from across Japan, plus VIP tickets get special access to unlimited tastings from Michelin-starred Soichi Sushi. VIP opens at 2:30 p.m. and general admission is 3:30 p.m., but early bird tickets are limited to the first 40 people. I mean c’mon, sushi and sake? If you’re even remotely interested in learning more about sake (or already know you’re a fan), this is the event of the year.
The uber-luxe spa The Golden Door in Escondido has been rejuvenating guests for over six decades, even winning Best Bathhouse Remodel in our Best of San Diego 2023 for its multi-million dollar overhaul. Now, you can try making the property’s signature nourishing cuisine at home with Chef Greg Frey, Jr.’s debut cookbook The Golden Door Table. There are over 100 recipes ranging from potassium broth to miso black cod, plus desserts, breakfast items, and a ton more to inspire your own wellness journey. The book hits shelves on September 15, but preorders are available now.
Love her or hate her, Gwyneth Paltrow has undeniably created a wellness dynasty with Goop, her blog-turned-brand with locations across California. Soon, San Diego will get its own shot of Paltrow-power when the first Goop store opens in One Paseo later this year, followed by an on-campus location at UCSD’s Triton Center. Charge your crystals and send out good energy to the construction and permitting entities…
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Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
While glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1) receptor agents have been used to treat Type 2 diabetes for more than 20 years, their recent emergence as weight-loss wonder drugs marked a new frontier in medicine. But their effectiveness has left some patients wondering what to do once they’ve reached their goal. Stopping the medication could mean regaining some, if not all, of the weight. A Scripps Clinic internal medicine physician recently conducted a small study of whether GLP-1 patients who had reached their goal weight could maintain that weight by taking their regularly prescribed injection every other week instead of weekly. Spoiler alert: 30 of 34 patients did. Read more about the study here and what that may mean as pharmaceutical companies roll out oral GLP-1s.
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