Oh man, that cheesesteak.
“Some say butcher shops are a dying breed,” says the chef, “and we don’t want that to happen.”
Science is shaky on the exact role Philly cheesesteaks played in building America, but “chief architect” feels close to right. And one of the best in San Diego is at this small butcher shop, run by one of the top chefs in the city. Brad Wise grew up in Jersey where neighborhood butcher shops are anchors of food culture. So Wise Ox is home.
Up front, Wise Ox sells various meats, soaking in marinades he uses in his restaurants—Trust, Cardellino, Rare Society, and Fort Oak, all pretty significant stars of the food scene. Customers can buy ‘em, cook ‘em. They serve sandwiches made with trimmings from their steakhouse (ribeyes, NY strips, beef tallow for the fries). Behind the counter, Wise and his chefs and butchers tinker with recipes.
“Where I’m from, butcher shops are small, intimate,” he says. “You know, people’s names, you see their kids grow up. My kids are in here all the time. There’s nothing more exciting when someone comes in… and sometimes they’re intimidated in these shops… We get to ask, ‘What are you making? What are you cooking on?’ And just kind of help get them to the finish line.”
There’s a smoker parked in front of Wise Ox, constantly slow-and-lowing treats. Regulars stop by throughout the day. “There’s just not much better than the people you meet here, that you grow with,” says Wise. “They get to see where their meat’s coming from, how it’s sourced, and I learn from them. It becomes more of a cultural thing.”
