What to eat, see, and do in the beachside neighborhood filled with labradoodle-owning joggers and surfers on a first-name basis with their kombucha dealer
Del Mar is a small beach town—just one where Bill Gates is your neighbor. The 2.2-square-mile stretch of hilly coastline boasts multi-generational families with weighty last names, clusters of cottages set on tree-lined streets, mom-and-pop shops with diehard patrons, the local pride that comes with a population of less than 5,000… and the looming specter of new development.
Even though its list of famous residents can sometimes read like an Illuminati roster, Del Mar has always been a classic coastal community at heart. No matter how many celebrities call it their summer home, the town’s tapestry—a mix of early-bird surfers, college professors, rooted families, retired inventors, rare Torrey pines, and lots of dogs—remains tightly woven. This town has been booming, thanks in part to Monarch Ocean Pub helping transform Del Mar Plaza from a sleepy shopping mall to a full-on scene. It’s where residents have gathered together again since the pandemic.
Del Mar Historical Society president Larry Brooks says that because half of the town’s residents are part-time, many of the million-dollar homes sit empty. But with new billion-dollar development, affordable housing requirements, and more short-term rentals on the way, a vibe shift is on the horizon, troubling local groups determined to hold onto Del Mar’s provincial spirit.
Photo Credit: Becka Vance
Things to Do in Del Mar
Meatballs at Beeside Balcony
While Vafiadis can’t resist breakfast at the beloved Harry’s Coffee Shop, she likes to venture off the beaten path for lunch. The meatballs at the Mediterranean-inspired Beeside Balcony are her current go-to. “It’s a shareable plate,” she says. “But I don’t share.”
Beach Walks to Torrey Pines
Surfboards are as common as cars in Del Mar, but Vafiadis prefers to explore on land via a nice, long beach walk. She starts on 17th Street and makes her way down to Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve, a pleasant route for people-watching and seashell-hunting.
Sunset Drinks at Monarch Ocean Pub
While there are no bad views in Del Mar, Monarch Ocean Pub’s third-story vantage is hard to beat. “I credit Monarch with really reviving this town more than anything,” Vafiadis says. “The energy up there is so wonderful.” She likes their grapefruit slushies—and that she can see Stratford Square from where she’s sitting.
Del Mar Wine + Food Festival
Debuting in 2023, the annual Del Mar Wine + Food festival taking place in October brings together some of the best chefs and food and drink makers in southern California for a six-day event featuring immersive culinary experiences and sold-out dinners across San Diego. From celebrity chefs to TV personalities and exclusive VIP events during the week, it’s one of the best culinary events of the year.
Photo Credit: Becka Vance
Facts About Del Mar
Start saving for that seaside abode—luxury real estate agent Mike Cady says that the average cost of a 1,200-square-foot home near the beach in Del Mar is between $3 and $5 million.
In their infamous 1963 bop “Surfin’ U.S.A.,” Del Mar is the first stop on the Beach Boys’ rundown of all the top surfing locales in Californ-I-A.
Sunday mass at St. James Catholic Church was like a red carpet event in the 1960s. Jimmy Durante, Desi Arnaz, and Lucille Ball often attended, while Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien served as ushers.
Tony Robbins once lived in Del Mar’s only castle. Designed by local architect Richard Requa, the five-bedroom home was built in 1927 for $150,000 (almost $3 million today) and features six fireplaces and a lookout tower.
To make ocean swimming safer, wealthy cattleman Colonel Jacob Taylor built a 198-foot pool at the bluffs’ base in the 1880s that filled with seawater at high tide. Some original pylons are still visible at low tide near 11th Street.
Photo Credit: Becka Vance
Local Tips for Del Mar
For as physically small as it is, Del Mar offers a surprisingly full itinerary—especially if you’re betting on the next Seabiscuit or taking a fried food tour through the fairgrounds. But you don’t need to wait for a major event to visit. The residents’ dedication to maintaining their town’s idyllic topography and coastal charm makes even the most mundane pastimes feel like something out of a movie montage.
One of those residents is KC Vafiadis, chairman of the Del Mar Village Association and daughter of longtime developer Jim Watkins. She grew up watching her dad bring the local economy back to life with projects like the L’Auberge Del Mar. While she’s understandably biased toward the spots steeped in her own family history (particularly the historic Stratford Square that she now runs), she has more than enough love for the rest of Del Mar to go around.
Courtesy Del Mar Wine + Food Festival
What’s Next for Del Mar
Several projects that will reshape the town’s landscape are in the works, with some replacing timeless favorites. Hillstone Restaurant Group (HRG) is constructing a 3,300-square-foot spot on Camino del Mar in the former site of the beloved Bully’s North. A rep from HRG confirmed it’s slated to open as a new Honor Bar location in early 2025. Valley Farm Market and The Cottage should also soon arrive on the town’s local business scene.
Jen Grove, executive director of the Del Mar Village Association, hopes that by continuing to attract San Diego–grown businesses, Del Mar can stay true to its small-town roots. “We’ve had a lot of change,” she says. “I think what people would like to see is just continuing to support what we have. Because what we have is really good.”
But the most controversial modification to the community’s landscape isn’t happening at the street level. The San Diego Association of Governments (SANDAG) is working to relocate the rail line from Del Mar’s coast (which is threatened by eroding cliffs) onto a more stable inland route via a tunnel with a $4 billion– plus price tag that would potentially run underneath the town’s main thoroughfare. Residents are concerned about construction disruption and potential impacts on property values. But Brooks, who’s also a retired engineer, believes that as long as SANDAG doesn’t dig up the main drag of Camino del Mar, locals’ fears are mostly (though not totally) unfounded.
“It’s going to impact a couple of people on the north end, probably,” he says. “But the south end is a piece of cake. They’ve got all kinds of places [the train] can come out and not bother anybody.”
Though longtime residents can be resistant to change, 93-year-old Watkins views these new developments as the culmination of the vision he originally outlined in his 1969 economic report titled Why Del Mar.
“Del Mar is where it should be,” he says. “My focus was on business revitalization, and essentially that’s done. Now the idea is just keeping the character of the community.”
Emily Blackwood is a freelance journalist based in San Diego, CA. She covers entertainment, wellness, travel, home, food, culture—all the things that make life interesting, tantalizing, and just the right amount of weird. Her work has been published in SELF, HuffPost, and YourTango. You can learn more at emily-blackwood.com.
