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Archive MARCH 8, 2018

Has Anything Really Changed Since Ballast Point Sold to Constellation?

More than two years after the acquisition, misinformation and misunderstanding still abound

Has Anything Really Changed Since Ballast Point Sold to Constellation?
Colby Chandler | Photo by Bruce Glassman

When Ballast Point announced it was selling to Constellation Brands in 2015, the news rocked the entire San Diego beer community. More than anything, the deal’s billion-dollar price tag sent shockwaves throughout the craft beer industry.

What shocked me most about the deal—above and beyond the previously unimaginable purchase price—was how quickly so many folks in the beer community turned their backs—not only on the company, but also on its people. Sure, I understood where a lot of that bad feeling was coming from; hard-core craft fans felt Ballast was “selling out” and betraying some sort of implied contract they had with their customer base to remain, as other people put it, “independent.” To my mind, no one had really successfully defined the parameters of what “truly independent” actually means, nor had they agreed on which aspects of independence were specifically so great. I would argue that a home-grown local company that makes its product locally, contributes to the local economy, is a good corporate citizen, and employs hundreds of locals, is a good company—regardless of who owns it. I know plenty of people would disagree with me on this, and I understand that perspective as well—I just believe it’s misguided.

I’ve known Ballast Point Vice President and Specialty Brewer Colby Chandler for a long time now. I got to know him and the Ballast Point team back when I first started writing about beer in San Diego. I’ve seen firsthand how Colby, Home Brew Mart, and Ballast Point have played crucial roles in developing the craft beer culture and community here; the contributions they have made to the advancement and promotion of the industry are matched only by one or two other breweries in town. Knowing Colby, and knowing how strained the years since the acquisition have been for him as a member of the craft beer community, I have wanted for a while now to sit down and give him the opportunity to speak to all the misinformation and misconceptions there are about exactly what kind of company Constellation Brands actually is, what their actual day-to-day involvement in the brewery is, and how things have changed (or not) since the acquisition.

I finally—and recently—had that chance to sit down with Colby to discuss those long-awaited topics and more. Luckily, we were also joined by veteran Ballast Point V.P. of Marketing Hilary Cocalis, who added her 5+ years of perspective and was able to elaborate on certain key points and issues regarding the company as it stands today.

Let’s start with some of the biggest misconceptions you feel are out there regarding the acquisition: Who and what Constellation is, and what the agenda of Constellation is. A lot of people think Constellation has somehow changed the Ballast mission, so what do you say to them?

Hilary: You know, it’s interesting. The first misconception is who we were even acquired by. It was a landmark deal probably for the number—people will remember the billion dollars, but they won’t remember the details behind it. A lot of people think we were acquired by Anheuser-Busch or some other “big beer” company. A lot of people in San Diego don’t even know who Constellation is or what the history is. This is a company that really is a “House of Brands.” It started as a wine company and now has a portfolio of wine brands including Mondavi, Clos du Bois, and Simi. They’re brand managers.

The first misconception is who we were even acquired by. We were not acquired by Anheuser-Busch or some other “big beer” company… Constellation is a company that really is a “House of Brands.”

Colby: Yes. They acquire brands and then manage them to the next level. And they’ve been doing it for the past 54 years or so.

Hilary: And the majority of that was wine. They only just recently got into the beer business. They got the import rights for the Mexican brands only recently.

Colby: Five years ago. They hadn’t had a beer brand until five years ago.

Hilary: Well, they were importing beer before the company was brewing it themselves. But, before the past five years, they were not brewers. They acquire brands that have potential and let them do their thing and grow them.

So, Constellation is not “big beer.”

Hilary: Right.

Colby: Right. I don’t consider them “chefs.” You know what I mean? I don’t consider them manufacturers, in the historical sense. They only recently became brewers of the Mexican portfolio, not just importers. They are brand managers. And the whole point is that they haven’t touched the chefs here at all. We haven’t “cleaned house.” And the majority of our people haven’t left. It’s the same crew making the same beer, it’s just that we’re doing it with better facilities and better equipment. We were already heading in that direction [before the acquisition]. We were already quality focused and we were already kind of super corporate in a lot of ways to begin with. I think, actually, in a lot of ways, we’re less corporate now with Constellation than we were as an independent brewery. Hilary? Yes? No?

Hilary: I think yes in that we have a lot more freedom to build the brand the way that we want to under Constellation’s guidance.

 

Before the acquisition, you had how many hundreds of employees?

Hilary: It was between 400 and 500. Now we’re at about 750. So we’ve grown our employee base.

 

And it wasn’t like you were a small company before the sale…

Hilary: We were the 13th largest craft brand in the nation before were acquired.

 

What are some of the other misconceptions that are out there that have really kind of gotten under your skin?

Colby: Most people don’t know that Constellation bought the rights for the Modelo group but they can only brew it in Mexico and they can only sell it in the United States. They do not have the distribution rights for worldwide; that is fully AB-InBev. Constellation bought the rights for the Modelo group from AB-InBev to produce that product as a completely separate entity. Constellation is not an international company. They’re not owned by an international company. They’re a New York- and Chicago-based company, basically.

Hilary: And they’re family owned.

Colby: We have a larger international footprint as Ballast Point than Constellation has as a whole. We run our own international sales and everything. So that’s just a little bit of perspective.

Hilary: I think another misconception, going back to the quality issue, is that our quality has gone down. We hear that all the time through second-hand and third-hand sources; that we’re owned by Constellation and our quality has gone down. That’s a tougher one to quantify or to justify, honestly, because as a marketing person I can pay lip service to that and say it’s not true, but it’s a subjective thing. What I can say is that the amount of investment that we’ve put into our quality program—to Colby’s point, we were doing that even before the deal—but it’s even grown since the deal. We have a lab in every brewery, we’re expanding our lab here [in Miramar], and we doubled the size of our field quality team. The one proof point that we’re really proud of is that we have more than 300 quality touch points for every single batch of beer—that includes everything from the raw ingredients to out on the shelves in the market. And nothing about the procurement of our raw ingredients has changed. We’re working with the same hop farmers, we’re still working with the same malt vendors, we’re now even propagating our own yeast in many cases. James Murray, our head of brewing operations, is still running all of that decision making.

Colby: The quality has definitely gotten better. [Colby later added that, at the last GABF, Manta Ray won gold in the extremely competitive IIPA category and Sour Wench won silver—and both submissions were sent from large regular production batches.]

Certainly the value that Constellation saw in Ballast Point as a company—the core of that is the quality of the beer. It would be stupid to mess with that.

Hilary: Absolutely. And I think if you were to ask some of the executives at Constellation they would tell you that the thought leadership we bring to quality is what they see as appealing. As they’ve started to acquire other craft brands—Funky Buddha in Florida, for example—they’re looking to us for guidance on how to help them with their quality program.

So, fundamentally, in terms of the beer-making process—what gets done, how it gets done, where you get the ingredients, who’s brewing the beer—most of that hasn’t changed at all.

Hilary: Not one bit.

And, in fact, the acquisition has just given you more resources and more tools.

Colby: Yes. But don’t get us wrong. It’s not like we’re saying absolutely nothing has changed since the deal. Things have changed, but it’s mostly been admin. Or sales and marketing. Those are the areas where Constellation is bringing its resources to us and we’re taking advantage of that. But, again, they’re not the chefs. So they kind of let us rule the kitchen.

And you don’t feel like you’re being subjected to any undue pressure to do this or do that, or to do things that you wouldn’t normally feel comfortable with from a sales goal standpoint?

Hilary: There’s pressure to grow the business, but we had that before.

Right. And when [founder] Jack White was running things you were growing like crazy also.

Colby: And they’re not dictating the brands that we’re making. They’re guiding us a little bit here and there. But we’re still putting the beers out and making the recipes. And places like [Ballast Point] Little Italy are still full steam ahead with all the R&D down there.

So what do you say to all the craft beer fans out there—the “die hards”—who may tend to drink more of the “story” of a brewery than they do the actual beer? To some extent, when you’re starting out as a craft brewery, it may be an advantage to sell your background—people like the idea of drinking beer from a small, artisanal place where they like the origin story.

Colby: Unless the beer is shitty…

Sometimes even if the beer is shitty. But to your earlier point about how people all of a sudden started saying the quality of Ballast Point has gone down, I think that’s somewhat a function of their wanting to believe some other story about where the beer is coming from.

Hilary: It seems the defining factor these days in this category is “independent” versus “non-independent.” For us, we think it should be about quality. All we can do is make the best beer we can and stand behind it. And the folks who won’t drink Ballast Point any more because we’re owned by Constellation—because of the independence factor—there’s not much we can do to win them back, other than to potentially show them that this is still great beer and there are still great people here that are passionate about making it. We may not be “independent,” but we are—first and foremost—a San Diego brewery. San Diego is still 20% of our total business. And this is where the majority of our employees work and live, and we’re doing a lot to support the community here. I mean, we’re still running Home Brew Mart, our original location that Jack opened as a homebrew supply shop—and we’re still running it as a homebrew supply shop. If we just cared about being a big national brand, what would be our incentive to do that?

It seems the defining factor these days in this category is “independent” versus “non-independent.” For us, we think it should be about quality.

 

And from what I can tell, you’re not some conglomerate that’s pushing other smaller guys in town off the shelves or throwing your weight around to the detriment of other brewers.

Colby: Yes, that’s right. That’s another misconception. People think Constellation owns its own distributors; they don’t. They have their own network of distributors, which they call the Gold Network, but when people say we’re restricting access to market, we can’t. We can’t control it the way AB-InBev does with their own distributors. The only way we can control it is with quality beer.

 

So realistically, from a distribution standpoint, you’re not doing anything differently now than you were doing—or at least you’re not doing anything different from what would be required at this point in the growth of the company.

Colby: Half of our distributors were already lined up with the network before the acquisition.

Hilary: That’s right. We were already mostly lined up with the distributor network and we were already distributed to most of the U.S. Our route to market hasn’t changed.

I think if you break down what people really value when they talk about why “independent” is so important, you look at things like: Is the brewery creating jobs in San Diego, which obviously you do, and is the brewery part of the local community and industry, which you are. And you didn’t come in from some other city and just set up shop; Ballast has a long history here.

Colby: You should see the welcome mat they put out for us in the cities we’re going into. The difference between the San Diego brewing scene and the brewing scenes in other cities around the country is pretty dramatic. People are actually excited for us to come into places like Virginia and Chicago—even Disney at this point. It’s the complete opposite of what other breweries have experienced here in San Diego. It’s a passionate culture that we’ve created here over the past twenty to twenty-five years. I always relate it back to an indie band getting a record deal. You may find it hard to support them for the first couple of years, but sooner or later you realize they’re still making f*****g good music.

Let me also add that I didn’t get into the beer business—I didn’t fall in love with micro-brews—because of who owned them. I fell in love with how they tasted. And I’m bummed about the beer drinkers we’re creating nowadays, because they feel they can only drink “independent beer,” and it doesn’t matter if the beer tastes good or not, or the history behind it. Does that mean you can’t have a Guinness on St. Patrick’s Day because it’s owned by Diageo? I can’t have a Corona and a taco on Cinco de Mayo because it’s Constellation? That’s not why I got into this business. I think it’s turning in not the best direction, and I think Ballast is kind of feeling that in a lot of ways. For me, it’s always been about the beer. And the whole reason I’ve been here for 21 years is because we’ve always made great f*****g beer.

And, to add to the irony, Ballast Point is a foundational brewery without which the San Diego brewing industry would look very different today.

Colby: Home Brew Mart. That’s almost the foundation of the San Diego brewing community.

Given all that history, I found it somewhat upsetting that there seemed to be so many people who were so willing to turn their backs on the company for what, ultimately, seems like a somewhat superficial reason.

Colby: Sometimes I think it hurts the wrong people. Somebody’s intention to “hurt” Ballast Point just trickles down and eventually hurts some of the 450 people working here in San Diego.

I think we’ve been too quiet after the acquisition about what the culture really is here, and what has not changed. We’ve let the rumor mill sort of run rampant a little bit.

With all the misinformation you feel is out there, you must be somewhat frustrated trying to get the truth to people—and, I would guess, you’ve been frustrated by the reactions you’ve seen from people who were longtime allies of yours in the craft beer community. Can you talk a little bit about what that’s been like?

Hilary: I have to say that, historically, we’ve been a pretty quiet and humble brand. We’re not out there tooting our own horn; we’ve always let the beer speak for itself and let the consumers and our fans speak for us. If anything, I think we’ve been too quiet after the acquisition about what the culture really is here, and what has not changed. We’ve let the rumor mill sort of run rampant a little bit. Even doing something like this interview feels a bit uncomfortable because we shouldn’t have to prove ourselves or toot our own horn.

Colby: The irony for me is that I was president of the Guild for almost six years, it was all volunteer work, and a lot of it was done on Jack’s dime while I was working. We supported the community so much when we had no resources. And now that we have all of the resources, the community won’t let us support them any more. That’s the most frustrating thing for me. I mean, nothing’s really changed for us. We’re still going to promote San Diego here, we’re going to promote San Diego in our new locations around the country, and we’re always going to promote the brewing scene in San Diego to the rest of the world. We also want to help the local hop growers and Pink Boots and folks like that, and if people want our help we’re going to give it to them.

We supported the community so much when we had no resources. And now that we have all of the resources, the community won’t let us support them any more.

 

Does it feel odd to have Ballast Point no longer be a member of the San Diego Brewers Guild?

Colby: Nobody remembers it, but when I was president, I always said if Budweiser had a plant in San Diego they would be a part of the Guild. That’s because I would have leveraged their resources for everything! For meetings, for food, for festivals, whatever. That ultimately would help everybody, right?

And it’s not like you’re an adversarial brand or you’re not willing to do it.

Colby: Yeah. We want to do it. And more importantly, Constellation wants to do it. They’re kind of new to this too, you know? They bought a brewery in the most beer-nerdy city in the United States, so it’s a learning curve for them as well.

Has Anything Really Changed Since Ballast Point Sold to Constellation?

Colby Chandler is Vice President and Specialty Brewer at Ballast Point Brewing Company | Photo: Bruce Glassman

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Food & Drink SEPTEMBER 9, 2026

Hako Hako Will Bring Japanese Konbini Culture to Hillcrest

San Diego entrepreneur Kenji Blouin-Ito is turning a tiny Uptown Inn space into a destination for bentos, coffee, snacks, and more

Hako Hako Will Bring Japanese Konbini Culture to Hillcrest
Courtesy of Hako Hako

Tokyo unquestionably holds the title as one of the best, if not the best, food cities of the world. But despite the plethora of Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants and hole-in-the-wall ramen joints, you’d be remiss in walking past glowing signs beckoning you to enter one of the 56,000-plus konbini across the country.

Konbini cafes like Lawson’s, FamilyMart, and 7-Eleven may look like run-of-the-mill convenience stores, but convenience store culture is a completely different animal there. Absent are the sad, floppy hot dogs sizzling sweatily on a rotating wheel of misery. Instead, konbini are stocked with a bevy of hot and cold drinks in every imaginable flavor, meals like tamago sandos (Japanese egg salad sandwiches) and prepacked bento boxes, snacks like onigiri (handheld triangles of rice and seaweed, often filled with fish or pickled plum), and even limited-edition merchandise (not unlike Wawa’s line of merch). 

Soon, Hillcrest will get a taste of konbibi culture. Hako Hako opens in front of Uptown Inn by Vantaggio, next to Ramen Ryoma, in early 2027.

Kenji Blouin-Ito, a half-Japanese, half-French San Diego native grew up eating Japanese food at home and during trips across the Pacific. “I remember looking forward to eating bentos on the train,” he says, grabbing quick items to munch on without sacrificing quality or succumbing to cost. When in France, he saw a rise of appreciation for casual Japanese cuisine, “long before it happened here.” 

Courtesy of Hako Hako | Photo Credit: @josh_walker.26_genteel

So he decided to bring it here. After AB 626 passed in 2018 to allow different jurisdictions to permit Microenterprise Home Kitchen Operations (MEHKOs), Blouin-Ito launched Foodnome, the first legal marketplace for homemade food in the US. Eventually, the national nonprofit The Cook Alliance took over the project, leaving him open to the next new idea but with the experience of running a food-based business. 

“That experience changed how I think about food, not just what makes it good but what makes it work,” he explains. Bento boxes felt affordable in a time of inflation, convenient in a bustling world, and versatile to a variety of palates. When he got the chance to open a konbini himself, he went for it. 

His family runs Uptown Inn, a mix of apartments and hotel rooms that’s seen increased food traffic over the past few years. “We had a small space in front of the building that wasn’t being used, and it just made sense,” he says. Hako means “box” in Japanese, a reference to both bentos and small space from where he’ll sling freshly made bentos, coffee, drinks, pastries, snacks, and a small retail selection.

Hako Hako will initially open for morning and afternoon hours, but you don’t have to wait until next year to get a taste of Japanese culture. Blouin-Ito’s concept is popping up at various coffee shops around San Diego, with a few coming up: Easy Does It on September 19 and Cafe Moto on October 17. Until then, practice the art of gaman: patience with grace. 

Hako Hako opens at 819 University Avenue in Hillcrest in early 2027.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • Sushi Tadokoro held on to its Michelin star for three years—no mean feat for anyone. But now, the Old Town restaurant is changing things up, eliminating lunch and à la carte service at the end of September before transforming into an omakase-only experience in October. The dining room will close from October 1 through October 22 to make the change, but promises it will be “more intimate. More personal. More focused on each guest and every piece we serve.” Sounds worth the wait.
  • Bock brought new life to South Park when the German-inspired beer bar opened after a long construction process by owner Brian Jensen (Vino Carta, Bottlecraft). Now, Bock is getting its own shot in the arm with a new in-house kitchen from the people behind Majorette, Love Letters Pizza, and Scrimshaw Coffee. Kurz, or “quick” in German, is already open, serving European-inspired bites like the requisite currywurst, Bavarian pretzel, and schnitzel, along with some newcomers like a pierogi and famous “Majorette burger.” (I can confirm it’s a damn good burger.) Reminder: Bock and Kurz are 21+, so leave the kinders at home.
  • The popular Japanese dessert chain Warabimochi Kamakura already has 70-plus locations in Japan, Australia, China, Thailand, and the U.K. (to name a few), but is finally opening a location in Convoy District at 8322 Clairemont Blvd. After a successful pop-up test run at Asa Bakery, Warabimochi Kamakura will bring its signature warabimochi (a traditional simple, jelly-like dessert), plus tea like matcha and hojicha, as well as soft serve as soon as October, but possibly November. (Although warabimochi is sometimes considered a summer treat, I’m pretty sure I can make an exception for autumn.)

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Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink SEPTEMBER 8, 2026

Two San Diego Wine Pros Are Betting Big on Tinned Fish

With Sosal Line, Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters are importing traceable seafood from small producers and building a global pantry business along the way

Two San Diego Wine Pros Are Betting Big on Tinned Fish
Courtesy of Sosal Line | Photo Credit: Madison Daube

No matter your job, it’s helpful to find some sort of joy in it to avoid going completely insane. Some people savor the variety of personalities when dealing with customers. Others find comfort in the predictability of closing a bar after last call, counting tips and wiping counters. Perhaps achieving Inbox Zero really gets your blood pumping, or shipping a new product design sparks joy.

For Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters, work doesn’t get better than logistics and operations.

“[We] both love all the unsexy parts of supply chain and backend management,” laughs Greenwood. Tracking outbound orders? Ensuring compliance? Managing inbound freight? Stop me if this is getting too hot for you!

Not enough people think about the unsexy reality of running a business before launch, but effectively and consistently keeping an eye on operations separates successful companies from out-of-business ones. Both Masters and Greenwood already own their own businesses—Greenwood is behind the wine zine Campestre Mag and runs the online wine shop Esquina, and Masters co-owns Clos Wine Shop and Fintastic Provisions in University Heights with her husband Paul. Apparently, these gigs weren’t enough to satisfy their collective yearning for spreadsheets and inventory maintenance. 

So, they decided to start another business together—Sosal Line, a San Diego-based import and distribution company specializing in global pantry items. The pair launched Sosal Line at the beginning of 2025 and currently only sell three brands of tinned fish, but Greenwood says they plan to expand their offerings as they discover other small or family-run businesses that share their values.

“We want to work with brands and with products that really have a sense of place and actually tell a story—not just the product, but the people behind it too,” she says. 

Masters and Greenwood are both Korean-American and named this burgeoning business after Haenyeo, the legendary free-diving women of Jeju Island in South Korea. Traditional Haenyeo equipment and garb include oribal (swim fins), yeoncheol (lead belts to help them sink), and the company’s namesake sosal, a hand-held fishing spear (sometimes called jaksal)

The average person, if sitting completely still, can stay underwater for up to a minute and a half at most. Haenyeo can hold their breath for up to three minutes while actively foraging, harvesting, and swimming. Scientists say these diving women spend more time underwater than any other group of humans on earth. Not badass enough for you? The average age of Haenyeo is around 70.

Courtesy of Sosal Line | Photo Credit: Luke Schmuecker

“Fishing is a strong heritage for Koreans, and it’s the same here in San Diego with the Portuguese settlers,” Greenwood explains. (We aren’t the tuna capital of the US for no reason.) 

Sosal Line carries 100 percent traceable, wild caught fish from Galicia in Northern Spain and the Pacific Northwest, all family-owned companies who don’t compromise on sustainable practices. Tinned fish has never been more popular—or more debated—but there’s more to it than cute labels designed for maximum Instagram reach. “I want to know who I’m purchasing from,” says Greenwood. One of their suppliers, Craft Fish Co., which is based in San Diego but fishes in the PNW, is run by JJ and Jessica Gerritsen. JJ catches, Jessica packages, and it’s a business relationship on a first-name basis. “You can’t find that when you’re working with some nameless brand.”

San Diegans can find Sosal Line products at local retailers like Clos/Fintastic (obviously), allmine in Oceanside, Always Hungry Grocery & Goods in Carlsbad, J. Brix Wines in San Marcos, Collins & Coupe/Tablespoon in North Park, and Green Acre in La Jolla. They’re also available in select retailers in Northern California, Oregon, Arizona, and strangely enough, South Carolina. Expanding its client base is, of course, a goal. But not at the expense of quality or joy of discovery.

“I would love to see people try food from different cultures and be excited about it,” says Greenwood. “Maybe make them want to travel to experience different areas of the world.” 

San Diego Restaurant News & Events

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Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink SEPTEMBER 8, 2026

Something Big Is Brewing In La Mesa

The folks behind Oddish Wine and Lost Cause Meadery are partnering with Bica to open an all-day cafe, coffee shop, wine bar, and restaurant near La Mesa Village

Something Big Is Brewing In La Mesa
Courtesy of Oddish Wine

La Mesa: a bucolic, hill-dappled city long regarded as a somewhat frumpy, never quite trendy bridge between the urban cool of Mid-City and the rural sprawls of East County. La Mesa’s population clocks in at around 4 percent of the city of San Diego’s—fewer than Chula Vista, Oceanside, Escondido, Carlsbad, El Cajon, Vista, San Marcos, and Encinitas, in that order. It’s home to a killer Oktoberfest, one of the best charter high schools in the state, and a theatrical mayor who tools around town in a golf cart (and so far, hasn’t cut any arts funding or closed public bathrooms). 

But any area that’s only 20 minutes from downtown San Diego and under 20 miles to Mission Bay will only stay under the radar for so long. Slowly but surely, bits and bobs from San Diego’s cultural tastemakers have been popping up all over town. Dark Horse Coffee and the boutique Small Batch both opened in La Mesa in 2018. Stella Jean’s and Pop Pie are coming later this year. Native Poppy is building its new headquarters and studio this fall. After a year in business, the new owners of JK’s Greek have established themselves as one of the best Greek restaurants in the county. 

Next year, La Mesa will get one of its most ambitious projects yet. Billy and Suzanna Beltz, owners of Lost Cause Meadery and Oddish Wine, are pouring everything they have into renovating a 5,000-square-foot building between the Village and MacArthur Park to open a wine/beer bar, coffee shop, all-day cafe, and wine shop. 

The concept doesn’t have a name (yet), and Bica in Normal Heights will come on as a partner to run the restaurant aspect and coffee program (which also won’t be called Bica. Still lots of naming decisions to be made). But the Beltz’s vision is to create something in La Mesa that doesn’t exist yet—a community gathering space open from morning until night that’s family-friendly, creatively designed, and well… cool

The building has been around since the 1940s, first operating as a neighborhood market, then butcher shop, secondhand children’s store, electronics store, dry cleaners, and bike shop. The Beltzses say they plan to keep the “soul and character” of the space as much as possible, highlighting original details like a barrel-shaped wooden roof, brightening up the corner building by utilizing the large front windows, and eventually building an outdoor dining/drinking space and kid-friendly area—a must for the neighborhood’s plethora of young families. They tapped all locals for the design and build: Tecscape Design, design consultant Carly Miller-Chen (who owns Ayi boutique in South Park) to create the space, and local contractor CLTVT. 

Courtesy of Oddish Wine

Starting in the morning, the space will offer coffee and light breakfast items before transitioning to lunch and dinner menus, plus a full bar that will feature Oddish and Lost Cause products as well as other local wines, beers, ciders, and other beverages alongside an aperitivo program and low-ABV cocktails and spritzes. Food-wise, they plan to install a wood-fired oven and rotisserie, but expect more menu details to be revealed closer to opening. 

There will also be a small retail space focused on natural wines and ciders from places like Raging Cider & Mead in San Marcos and other San Diego and Baja California makers. But don’t expect run-of-the-mill options from the guy who makes weird wines and mead, the oldest alcoholic beverage in human history (hardly TikTok trend material). “We have a unique perspective… Hopefully we can expand some palates and minds in the process,” says Billy.

Community is the heart of the project, more than food, more than drinks. “We have a young family. [Bica owners] Manny [Da Luz] and Charlie [Knowles] have families,” says Billy. Suzanna adds: “People want a space that they know they’re going to get really amazing food, really fun drinks, but they can also feel like they can bring their kids during the weeknights.” It won’t be North Park 2.0, although many families now living in La Mesa came from various neighborhoods across Mid-City (like the Beltzes). It’s filling a void. It’s something they can build from the ground up. And just maybe, it’s something that will surprise people who have yet to discover La Mesa’s potential. 

Oddish Wine/Lost Cause Meadery’s new concept is projected to open by the end of 2027 at 8495 La Mesa Blvd.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • For as long as I can remember, my favorite animal in the world has been bunnies. (You’d think I would have been cured of the notion after adopting an adorable, but absolutely diabolical rabbit in my teens, but alas, it did not.) If you, too, love gazing at cute little cotton tails and velvety-soft ears, then join me for Bunnies & Brunch on Saturday, September 26 at Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter’s Wild Hare Bar Garden. (I had no idea that downtown San Diego was once home to a robust rabbit population in the mid-19th century, but today I learned!) Yes, there will be a bunny petting farm from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Take a number, pal.
  • Keeping with the animal theme, there’s a new snake in town. Serpent & Stone, a Greek-inspired restaurant and lounge opened this weekend at 750 Front Street with Mediterranean classics like falafel, Greek meatballs, skewers, Greek salads, and mythology-inspired cocktails like “The Aphrodite” (pea-flower-infused Ketel One vodka with passion fruit, Madagascar vanilla, Passoã, lime and champagne). If you didn’t make it to Mykonos this summer, this sounds like a decent alternative. 
  • Mat Robar, Jesse Pine, and Winslow Sawyer launched Pure Project in 2016 with the idea of centering a brewery around sustainability, rather than leaving it as an afterthought or bonus. Most recently, they released Closed Loops, a collaborative murky IPA with Societe Brewing Company and Dalum Beverage Equipment, the latter of which installed CO2 capturing machines at both breweries earlier this year. Since February, Pure Project has recaptured and reused over 74,500 pounds of CO₂ emissions, keeping all of that out of the air and staying on track to hit over 119,000 pounds by the end of the year. The hazy IPA brewed with Tropical Fusion, Mosaic, and Strata Cryo hops is now on draft and in to-go four-packs at all five Pure Project locations, and I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to see environmental enthusiasts doing their part. 
  • Cheerio, California English. The Sorrento Valley British restaurant launched by celebrity chef Richard Blais will close permanently at the end of September. May your prime rib “proper roast” and Scotch eggs live on in another realm somewhere.

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Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Studio S SEPTEMBER 9, 2026

Meet ArtsConnect, UC San Diego’s Invitation to SoCal Arts Lovers

ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.

Meet ArtsConnect, UC San Diego’s Invitation to SoCal Arts Lovers
Courtesy of UC San Diego

Ask most people what UC San Diego is known for, and the arts may not be the first answer. Yet this fall, San Diegans can watch Ghostbusters with a live orchestra, try their hand at glassmaking and wander among more than 20 works of public art woven throughout the university’s La Jolla campus.

ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.

Courtesy of UC San Diego | Photo Cred: Erik Jensen

“The arts are at the heart of UC San Diego’s student-centered mission and vision,” says Alysson Satterlund, Vice Chancellor for Student Affairs and Campus Life. “Whether creating, participating in, or experiencing performances, the arts are essential to a healthy and truly fun Triton student experience.”

That invitation often begins where the arts intersect with other fields.

“Some of the most innovative work and discovery happen where disciplines don’t usually share a stage,” says Cristina Della Coletta, Dean of the UC San Diego School of Arts and Humanities. “So through our unique intersection of the arts with science, technology, and medicine, we are improving lives, physically and emotionally.  

Take The Inaudible Ocean, a collaboration between Department of Music Professor Lei Liang and Scripps Institution of Oceanography Assistant Project Scientist Josh Jones. Over eight years, the pair recorded earthquakes, ship noise, whale songs and other sounds in remote underwater locations. They transformed those recordings into a live music experience that allowed audiences to hear the ocean in an entirely new way. The work premiered on campus in May and continues to evolve.

The arts also connect the campus to the global art world and diverse perspectives. Chief Campus Curator Jessica Berlanga Taylor recently curated the Mexico Pavilion at the 61st Venice Biennale, featuring RojoNegro, the collective formed by Noé Martínez and María Sosa. The collective will unveil a compelling new permanent installation for UC San Diego’s celebrated Stuart Collection later this fall. 

ArtPower offers another easy entry point, bringing touring performers to venues including the outdoor Epstein Family Amphitheater and the intimate Loft. The nearly three dozen performances featured through its 2026-2027 season span music, dance, film, theater and conversation. 

Among the fall highlights is Ghostbusters in Concert on Sept. 25, pairing the beloved 1984 film with a live performance of Elmer Bernstein’s score. Tickets start at $35, and the amphitheater is located next to the UC San Diego Blue Line trolley station.

“Every member of our community should have access to world-class art, so we work hard to remove the barriers that stand in the way,” says Colleen Kollar Smith, executive artistic director of the Campus Performances and Events Office. “That means affordable ticket prices, and performances, voices and experiences where people see themselves reflected on stage and know they belong.”

The arts at UC San Diego are not only something to watch. The Craft Center offers public classes and workshops in ceramics, jewelry, woodworking, culinary arts and even surfboard shaping. At the new Glass Center, beginners and experienced makers can explore glassmaking through classes, demonstrations and studio experiences.

Whether you want to attend a performance, make something yourself or spend an afternoon exploring public art, there is an easy way in. And the invitation extends well beyond students and alumni.

Kollar Smith says it best: “Visit, participate, spectate or create. You’re invited, and we hope you’ll connect with us soon.”

Explore upcoming experiences at ucsd.edu/artsconnect.

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Food & Drink SEPTEMBER 2, 2026

A Gluten- and Dairy-Free Bakery Is Popping Up Across San Diego

At The Delicate Squash, Shannon English is rethinking cookies, cakes, and pastries with seasonal ingredients and natural sweeteners

A Gluten- and Dairy-Free Bakery Is Popping Up Across San Diego
Courtesy of Shannon English

Midway through my phone conversation with Shannon English, owner of The Delicate Squash, I hear an alarm shrilling in her background. 

“Sorry, I’ve got to pull some cookies out of the oven right now!” she apologizes. After a few beats, she picks the phone back up and laughs. “I feel like I’m bouncing around all over the place.”

After hearing her run through a list of her professions and current hobbies, I’d have to agree. English runs The Delicate Squash, a gluten- and dairy-free bakery; teaches cooking demos; pops up at farmers markets; wrote a book of poetry (Deep Water came out this month from Beyond the Veil Press); hosts a monthly open mic night; dipped her toe into ballet; recently joined a running club; volunteers at local farms; and finally, teaches at a play-based, nature-based preschool.

I’m tired just talking to her. 

Surprising no one, English seems to have unlimited energy and enthusiasm for all this work, notably in education. Early childhood education is one of the most pivotal times for nurturing lifelong learning, but she also aims to educate the public on how to eat cleaner, feel better, and support your local food systems. She started The Delicate Squash in late 2023 after discovering she has a chronic illness, going through the typical standards of care and even strict elimination diets, to no avail. 

Courtesy of Shannon English

“I’m not going to say I found a diet that has ‘cured’ me, but I have found that taking a more mindful approach to a lot of things, including diet, has made symptoms far more manageable for me,” she says. 

Even people with dietary restrictions deserve a little treat from time to time, but she had a hard time finding anything that tasted good and made her feel good. Thus, The Delicate Squash was born.

All of her baked goods avoid gluten and dairy, and use natural sweeteners like coconut sugar or maple syrup as well as herbs, fruits, foraged flowers, and other natural flavorings. Her signature cookie, the “Delicate” cookie, is a sea salt dark chocolate cookie that’s soft, a little salty, a little sweet, and made with oatmeal to keep it gluten-free. Other crowd favorites are thumbprint jam cookies with jams made from scratch with change seasonally; breakfast pastries like orange, dark chocolate and cardamom scones; brownies; orange and black sesame banana bread; seasonal pies; and custom and seasonal cakes (currently, the late summer flavor is a dark chocolate coconut milk ganache with berry jam).

English says some people are surprised she can produce such a variety of goods with the dietary restrictions she adheres to. “A lot of feedback I get is ‘I could never do that,’” she says. But if she can do it, she assures me that anyone can. “I like to say ‘practice makes progress, not perfection.’” 

Her advice? Focus more on being present than presentation, and don’t be afraid to experiment to keep things interesting. And if that doesn’t work, you can always hit her open mic night to ask for tips.

Customers can order from The Delicate Squash’s online store, check her upcoming schedule of pop-ups, or find her goods at various independent retailers around San Diego.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Vinyl Listening Room Opening Inside Escondido’s Distinction Gallery

Escondido is getting in on the listening bar phenomenon. On September 5, musicians Mat Rakers, Kevin Capacia, and Billy Petty will open Plot Armor, a Japanese-style vinyl listening bar that Rakers says they aim to feel “curated and intelligent.” 

“Currently, there are not a lot of ‘cool’ spots in Escondido,” he says. Backed by The San Diego Music And Art Company and The Escondido Music And Art Company, Plot Armor will soon offer sake, wine, beer, and soju cocktails, plus Japanese non-alcoholic options and cold brew. Eventually, they’ll add Japanese-inspired snacks, but the focus will be creating a small place (very small—the seating capacity is 20) where vinyl junkies can come listen, linger, and libate. 

Courtesy of Fairmont Grand Del Mar

Beth’s Bites

  • Ocean Beach has a new watering hole. The Jetty opened in July at 4934 Voltaire Street (where Voltaire Beach House used to be), and while I don’t think OBceans were hurting for where to get a drink, the more the merrier. 
  • Chinese restaurant powerhouse Chef Fei is finally making it to the U.S., opening a spot at Westfield UTC mall on September 5. Known for Hunan-style stir fry dishes, it’s often lauded as one of the most consistently solid chains in the world—in fact, in 2018 chef Fei Lianghui took home the highest honor a Chinese chef can earn, the China Golden Chef Award. Again, I don’t think mallgoers were hurting for great places to slurp some noodles, but there’s always room in my heart for more stir fry.
  • In past years, Fairmont Grand Del Mar didn’t exactly jump to mind when I looked for different Día de Muertos celebrations around San Diego. That changes this year, when the five-star resort will debut its first Día de Muertos celebration on November 1. Michelin-recognized chefs like Javier Plascencia (Erizo, Animalon), Roberto Alcocer (Valle), Drew Deckman (Deckman’s En El Mogor), and more will come from both sides of the border for one night only, with proceeds going to Fundación Tijuana Sin Hambre. Get ready for what will undoubtedly be San Diego’s most upscale take on the Mexican holiday.

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene

Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink AUGUST 31, 2026

The Best Basque Cheesecakes in San Diego

After a blind taste test, these four desserts came out on top—see the winners here

The Best Basque Cheesecakes in San Diego
Courtesy of Muse Cheesecakes & Bakery

Basque grandmothers have not been making it for centuries. If you’re a millennial, there’s a strong possibility you’re older than the dessert itself. Yet somehow in less than 40 years, the Basque cheesecake—a half-pudding, half-cake creation with a top that looks like a mistake—managed to ooze its way onto menus all over the world.

It became the undisputed dessert star of San Diego’s restaurant world this year. So we invited 19 of the top restaurants, pastry chefs, and bakers to bring their best to the San Diego Magazine office for a blind taste test to find the best in the city.

First, a little history and context.

In 1987, after failing to find a job as an electrician, Santiago Rivera started working as a bartender at his parents’ unassuming pintxo bar La Viña, in San Sebastián, Spain. He was a naturally curious, self-taught cook who spent his free time testing recipes, tinkering with ingredients, and tweaking techniques.

So when it came to the cheesecake—which hadn’t changed much since its invention (a rudimentary version was served at the first Olympics in Greece 4,000 years ago, and the modern New York version in 1872)—he got radical with it.

He removed the crust (partly just to speed up the process because time is money for a small business). Without the crumbly crust, the experience was far creamier, less granulated. Then he cranked the oven to 400 degrees, nearly 100 degrees hotter than the normal baking temperature.

The result? The top became deeply caramelized, almost burnt, while leaving the center luxuriously soft and loosely set. The restaurant became a legend because of this breakthrough in the dairy arts, and his father never let him stop making it after that.

Now, 67 years after the restaurant’s opening, La Viña stands out for the unceasing line spilling onto the street, and the remarkable amount of curd cultists standing nearby, hovering over cream-smeared plastic containers. It’s the kind of scene that makes you stop and think: What the hell are they eating?

Now, the blind tasting. To keep things fair, the contenders were divided into four categories: Restaurant Traditional, Restaurant Flavored, Bakery Traditional, and Bakery Flavored. (It’s a tad unfair to pit a baker who specializes in the one glorious thing against a restaurant that cooks dozens of things.) Each entry was served blind and judged on texture, flavor, and number of vaguely inappropriate food moans.

The logistics were chaotic, to say the least. Our fridge—not a walk-in, sadly—was packed to the brim. Each cake was sliced, secretly labeled, and shuffled onto plates while the team gathered in the conference room. The whole shebang was not in any way sponsored by Lactaid, despite our various attempts to convince them of this ripe marketing opportunity.

The judging became gloriously unhinged. We heard it all, from “I don’t care how the cheesecake gets in my mouth, it just needs to happen,” and “Is it supposed to be this jiggly?” to “Kind of a baby throw-up situation,” “Straight cheese,” and “I’m getting vague socks there.”

But four Basque cheesecakes stood out among the rest, earning themselves the title of Best Burnt Basque Cheesecake in San Diego.

Courtesy of Mesa Agricola

Restaurant: Traditional

Mesa Agricola

A restaurant for the people. Rosarito native chef Juan González and Megan Strom are the ideal married couple to be running a farm-to-table joint. She’s been a farmer for decades, selling top-notch produce to some of the best restaurants in California—which is how the two met. A couple years ago, she started working at the small organic farm in Valley Center run by Mike Reeske, who had spent decades breeding the perfect heirloom beans for SoCal’s climate. He recently retired, and gifted those strains to Strom—who grows them (and other crops) for their tiny Escondido taco/burrito shop specializing in guisados (Mexican stews).

A Basque cheesecake in a taco shop? You bet. Juan’s got family roots in Spain and has cooked in Spanish kitchens.

Mesa Agricola’s winning Basque is by far the most “burnt” of all contenders—so much so that an Instagram follower declared it a mistake. But as Chef Juan notes, there’s an art to hitting the sweet spot where “the bitterness of the char balances the richness and sweetness without turning it into ‘chicharrón.’” Plus, char is a core charm of Baja cooking. It’s the perfect Basque for the people who prefer setting their campfire marshmallows fully on fire.

Photo Credit: Casiel Sanchez

Restaurant: Flavored

Moe’s Steakhouse

With red leather booths and a retro steakhouse vibe, Moe’s in Mission Beach is a good cheat day destination. The menu is flavor maximalism—dry-aged steaks, housemade pastas, brown liquors, and sides like the lobster truffle mac ’n’ cheese. Pastry chef Eli Peralta (whom some might remember as the creator of The Patio on Lamont’s “Twisted Elvis”—a peanut butter-banana brûlée stunner) brings that same intensity to the dessert menu.

Baked at sister restaurant Molly’s (6 feet away), his Basque is served on a bed of caramel with walnut brittle and a dollop of whipped cream, an indulgent recipe that converted the pastry chef himself. “I wasn’t crazy about cheesecakes,” Eli admits. “Then I started making different flavors, and I started to like them.” He’s not the only convert: During our blind tasting, one judge likened the cake to crème brûlée, concluding, “I don’t even like crème brûlée, but I like this.”

Courtesy of Muse Cheesecakes & Bakery

Bakery: Traditional

Muse Cheesecakes & Bakery

Every creative pursuit starts with a muse—and Lada Sadovnyk’s has been the Basque cheesecake for years. In Ukraine, she baked them for friends and family gatherings, never imagining she would one day build an entire bakery around them in the US. “When we moved to San Diego,” she explains, “I kept thinking, ‘What can I do? What do I really love to do?’”

The answer is pretty fantastic.

After obsessing over proportion and techniques, chasing that molten center and deeply caramelized top, what began as an online recipe evolved into something entirely of her own.

She moved from her home kitchen to a rented commercial kitchen close to Sports Arena. The orders kept coming, and so did the pressure. “At one point, I was thinking about divorcing my husband,” she says with a laugh (while sitting next to him). The grind paid off: Today, Muse Cheesecakes bakes roughly 1,200 cheesecakes a month and is planning to open its first brick-and-mortar home in Pacific Beach.

For our competition, the expectations met reality. Muse has made a quick name in San Diego as the Basque to beat. In a blind taste test, there’s no bias, no reputational shine to sway a room. The response on reveal: “Oh, of course.”

Photo Credit: Casiel Sanchez

Bakery: Flavored

Bite Cheesecakes & Bakery

Husband-and-wife duo Alex and Anastasia Kiperband pulled off the number of failures (and then some) that are required of any search for the best recipe. After adjusting baking temps, sugar rations, and experimenting with different brands of cream cheese and heavy cream—they finally landed on something worthy of a business license.

“When we started this business in America, we were really nervous,” Anastasia says, co-owner of Bite Cheesecakes & Bakery.

Once they won over those first customers, their confidence grew enough to start tinkering. When Dubai chocolate took social media by storm, they developed their own version, making the pistachio paste from scratch before layering the buttery kataifi pastry beneath a glossy chocolate shell to create its signature Dubai Chocolate Basque Cheesecake.

“In a lot of situations, we’re converting cheesecake haters to cheesecake lovers,” they say. “That’s probably the best feedback that we get.”

Camila Ibarra Gallego is a CaliBaja native pursuing a master's degree in culinary journalism at the Basque Culinary Center. Shaped by the culturally rich, bicultural megaregion, she's passionate about sniffing out stories that connect people, territory and culture through food. When she's not tumbling down internet rabbit holes, you can find her pretending to be a wine connoisseur at a local wine bar or nose-deep in a good book.

Partner Content AUGUST 21, 2026

This Scripps Clinic Physician is Serving Up Care

Laika Nur, MD, takes her love of volleyball from the court to the clinic as team physician for the San Diego Mojo

This Scripps Clinic Physician is Serving Up Care
Courtesy of Scripps Health

Growing up, Laika Nur, MD, Scripps Clinic sports medicine specialist, loved watching beach volleyball when the Association of Volleyball Professionals tour came to her hometown of Chicago. A talented volleyball player herself, she remembers sitting in the stands all day, and once, even got a couple autographs. Years later, Dr. Nur was attending a professional event focused on women’s sports, and the discussion turned to a new professional women’s volleyball league. The general manager and coaching staff  for San Diego’s team, the Mojo, happened to be in attendance, and Dr. Nur took the opportunity to ask them if they needed a team doctor. Flash forward to the Mojo’s inaugural 2024 season, when Dr. Nur officially became the team physician. Click here to read more about Dr. Nur and how she incorporates lessons she learned on the court into her practice. 

For more nutrition, wellness, and healthy living tips, sign up for the San Diego Health newsletter here.

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