The ornate, yellow, two-story building has always cast a French Quarter shadow over the otherwise modernized block of North Park.
An iron scrollwork railing hugs the top-floor walkway like the corset of a vivacious cabaret performer. It’s a seminal site for the food world in San Diego—occupied for 13 years by Urban Solace, which kicked off a modern boom for North Park’s restaurant scene when it opened in 2006. For nearly seven years since Solace’s closure, the space has lain as silent as a New Orleans cemetery.
But come Feb. 9, it’ll be filled once again with the scents of sauteed garlic and fresh-baked bread, and the sounds of laughter and sloshing wine. Bacari is opening the doors of its first San Diego location.
The Los Angeles-based Venetian restaurant and wine bar concept currently operates eight other locations, North Park being its first outside La-La-Land. Owners Danny and Robert Kronfli, along with chef and co-founder Lior Hillel (ex-Jean Georges), opened the first Bacari in 2008. They’d been looking to expand south for about a year.
Kronfli says that every location models the signature Bacari vibe—an upscale take on Venetian wine bars—but each also has its own je ne sais quoi determined by the neighborhood and building. In this case, the 4,000-square-foot space will lean toward that New Orleans–esque, Old World-meets-New World, European-style aesthetic—vintage rugs and lots of patterned upholstery with a few dashes of Mexican-inspired details like tile and stonework.
(Thankfully, they’re making use of the 1,000-square-foot plant-drenched patio for more seating, which dare I say was North Park’s biggest loss since the building has been closed?)
Hillel will bring Bacari favorites to San Diego, including house-baked bread and house-cured olives to whet palates for an extensive wine, beer, and cocktail program. Seafood like fresh crudo and shrimp ceviche highlight the cold plates, while hot options range from grilled pork chops to Mediterranean street corn, lamb hummus, shawarma tacos, a Bacari burger, glazed pork belly, and plenty of other Mediterranean-influenced Italian dishes meant to be shared.
The robust brunch menu ranges from Tuscan kale salad for the gluten-free folks to chef’s French toast on house-baked brioche or challah, topped with market fruit for the sweet-toothed carb lovers. Plus egg pizza, chilaquiles, and—this being California—avocado toast.
Of course, there are bellinis as well as mimosas—bellinis actually originated in the mid-1900s in Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy, so it’s practically a brunch necessity. (If I might make a suggestion to really lean into the New Orleans vibe, perhaps consider a frozen Irish coffee à la Erin Rose.)
And call them optimistic, but the trio has already signed on the dotted line for their second San Diego spot, this time in Carlsbad. “We got lucky, because my two targets, my two priorities, were Carlsbad and North Park,” says Kronfli. “I love the vibe of both areas, so the cookie crumbled in a nice way.”
Bacari Carlsbad will open sometime in Carlsbad Village sometime late summer or early fall (in the recently closed Paon Restaurant and Wine Bar space). Kronfli says they’re still actively looking for lucky number three—likely somewhere in the Encinitas or Leucadia area, or possibly Little Italy. And while some (okay, probably a lot) of the decision will center around how Bacari North Park goes, he says sometimes, you just get that tingle.
“When I get out of a car, most of the time, within five to 10 minutes, I can feel whether it’s going to be a target market for us or not,” he says. “[I got it here] right away.”
Bacari North Park opens on Monday, February 9.
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