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Will San Diego's minimum wage kill restaurants? Or just tipping?
NOTE: This blog post is about a work in progress. A sharing of exploratory, initial research. It is not meant as a fully formed opinion one way or the other in favor or opposition of the minimum wage. I simply wanted to share my findings as I go along and ask you readers to chime in as I attempt to reach an well-informed opinion.
I wouldn’t eat in restaurants for a while if I were Todd Gloria. Spit tastes gross.
Most restaurateurs I talk to are pretty outraged over Gloria’s proposed hike of the minimum wage to $11.50 in 2017. (This week mayor Kevin Faulconer vetoed it, but the city council is likely to override his veto.)
It’s a terribly complicated issue. I’m conducting dozens of interviews and reading hundreds of pages of research to try and formulate an educated opinion on it.
There’s no doubt that San Diegans need a living wage. To live in this city it helps to have a machine that prints money. Especially if you’re a line cook, dishwasher, prep cook or any other restaurant employee who doesn’t earn tips. The restaurant world has long had a gaping, odorous socioeconomic divide—and that divide is the door that goes from the dining room to the kitchen.
But higher-end restaurateurs are really ticked because many of their servers already make between $40,000 and $70,000 a year, often for part-time work.
Take this example. One local restaurateur had an employee make nearly $70K last year working 30 hours a week. That’s an hourly rate of about $45. I’m in the wrong career. Under Gloria’s current plan, the restaurateur would be forced to give that employee a $3.50/hour raise come 2017 (starting from June’s $8/hour minimum wage).
Restaurants already operate on small profit margins. Is it fair for the local government to force that restaurateur’s labor cost to raise by 44% for an employee who made eight times minimum wage last year?
Restaurants will cope with the minimum wage hike in various ways. They’ll hire less people. They’ll reduce hours of servers. They’ll assign 20 tables to one or two servers and wish them the best. They’ll install counters and buffets and robots. They’ll raise the menu prices. They’ll go out of business.
Chain restaurants with their economies of scale will be able to absorb the cost. Bistros will not.
Feel that? It’s the sky.
One of San Diego’s top restaurateurs/chefs, Matt Gordon, has estimated it will cost him hundreds of thousands of dollars. (Important note: Gordon does not object to paying back of the house staff more.)
Of course, proportionally, it will cost flower shop owners and Wal-Mart just as much as Gordon. Difference is, flower shop clerks and Wal-Mart checkers don’t make tips. They need the raise. Restaurant owners like Gordon provide an environment where his tipped servers do very, very well.
Granted, the $70K-a-year servers are outliers. Plenty of servers at chain restaurants eke out an existence barely above the poverty line. An $11.50 minimum wage would bring a full-time employee an extra $140/week (over the recent $8/hour minimum). That’s over $600 a month, a significant raise for some people. That’s rent in some shady neighborhoods. But, oh—the minimum wage might force restaurateurs to cut their hours to make up the costs. In that case no one wins.
So the question is: Is Gloria’s proposed legislation a blunt, one-size-fits-all instrument? An example of poorly designed, attention-grabbing legislation? Shouldn’t the plan take into consideration tipped employees who already make well above the minimum wage?
Hey, a solution! Count the tips as pay! If an employee’s tips don’t meet minimum wage, the restaurant owner makes up the rest. Bam, done!
Only, no.
California is one of only a handful of states where it’s illegal for employers to take a “tip credit”—meaning that tipped wages are counted in an employee’s pay. Under tip credit laws, most states only pay tipped employees $2.13 (the federal minimum), and tips help the employee earn minimum wage or greater.
The reason California doesn’t allow tip credits? Because there are bad people in the world. Wage theft is pretty rampant with tip credits. Some employers make servers clean ketchup bottles and do side-work for $2.13 an hour (work that obviously doesn’t get tipped). Lawsuits abound.
Plus, for every $70,000-a-year server in San Diego, there are many, many more who make $30,000 a year. A tip credit would cripple them. Whereas with a mandatory minimum wage, those employees could become more productive members of society with the extra $7,280 a year (how much a 40 hours/week employee would gain going from the recent $8/hour minimum wage to $11.50/hour).
So maybe a tip credit isn’t a great idea. Or at least not the tip credit law in its current format. California could be proactive and improve it.
Some restaurateurs are extolling the “total compensation” package—suggesting that what they shell out for healthcare, sick days, vacation days and staff meals should be credited as “pay” to an employee, too. That seems a touch extreme.
Maybe the onus to fix the impending restaurant problem shouldn’t fall on the government. The political machine, after all, is not famous for its intricate, proactive work. Maybe Gloria was right not to give special treatment to the restaurant industry. Maybe the current restaurant model is severely broken and needs to make a hard adjustment—and Gloria’s tough love is helping it see the light.
As it stands, we customers should be paying a lot more for restaurant food than we currently are. Americans are cheap-food addicts. Maybe restaurants need to raise their costs and build a more sustainable business model. The result will be that more people eat at home. Some restaurants will die. But maybe restaurant Darwinism isn’t such a terrible thing.
Or how about this. Let’s end tipping all together, as Slate and the New York Times have recently suggested. Study after study shows tipping has no affect on the quality of service. It promotes sexism, racism, ageism (a white, 30-something male almost always gets the best service, and well-endowed females almost always get the best server shifts). It promotes a for-sale servitude and encourages the worst parts of humanity to flourish.
Restaurants in Europe, Asia and Australia have got on just fine without tipping.
Former San Diego restaurant The Linkery got an incredible amount of hate mail for eliminating tipping and instituting an 18 percent “service” charge. The city attorney sued them (which seemed a touch crazy). Granted, The Linkery went under (owner Jay Porter is now up in Oakland operating a counter-service restaurant called The Half Orange, and opening a full-service restaurant called Salsipuedes). But maybe they were ahead of their time (to be historically correct, Alice Waters and Thomas Keller already had this practice in place at their restaurants). A few other restaurants around the country (Restaurant Riki in NYC, Brand 158 in L.A.) have started to do the same.
If only one San Diego restaurateur instituted an 18% tipping charge, chances are they’d get slaughtered. Diners would simply go to their competitor. It must be a collective, group decision by the top restaurants in San Diego to do it in lockstep.
I spoke to Porter about this issue. He wonders whether tipping may even be outlawed. “It’s an equality issue,” he says. “And equality issues are usually decided by courts.”
As it stands in my research now, here are the possible conclusions I’m leaning toward about the future of restaurants with an $11.50 minimum wage:
Like I said, I’m only beginning my dive into this issue. When I started the research for this story, I was sure I was going to lambast a one-size-fits-all ordinance that smacked of politicking and laziness. Now I’m not so sure.
One thing I’m sure of. Restaurateurs should be glad they’re not in San Francisco. Or Seattle.
More to come. Please feel free to chime in.
PARTNER CONTENT
Minimum Wage, Maximum Death!
Your ultimate guide to the state's best oenophile destinations—where to stay, what to sip & what to explore
For some, September signals the bittersweet end of summer. For others, it’s a new beginning: the height of harvest season in California wine country. Vineyard grapes reach optimal ripeness for picking, stomping, and fermenting, while the warm, dry, and temperate weather invites wine lovers across the country outdoors to see the vineyards for themselves. Craving a vino vacation of your own? Here’s what to do, eat, and drink, plus where to stay.
Families, in particular, should start in the Riverside County city of Temecula, where anyone age 6 or above can sightsee from the skies with family-run company Cielo Balloons. Those who prefer to keep their feet firmly on the ground might go for a sunset horseback ride with California Ranch Company before turning in for the night at the ultra-luxurious South Coast Winery Resort & Spa—the first and only five-time winner of the “Golden State Winery of the Year” award, as granted by the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition—or a room at the Spanish-style Ponte Vineyard Inn, which has its own vineyard and is within walking distance of two more.
From there, stroll to Bottaia Winery, where creative types looking to play winemaker for a day can blend their own vinos and bring them home as a souvenir to age. Hop in the car for your five-minute drive to lunch at the upper veranda of Flower Hill Bistro at Miramonte Winery. Wrap up your day with a tasting at the nearby Peltzer Family Cellars before heading into town for a last hurrah dinner at the 98-year-old, storied Swing Inn Cafe & BBQ.
Head north and stop for a meal at the Hotel Californian’s Blackbird restaurant in Santa Barbara, where executive chef Travis Watson and his staff host a once-monthly series featuring a different winery or spirits company. Patrons who don’t want to build their schedule around that event can still savor offerings from local wineries like Lincourt and Firestone before checking in at The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos.
After spending some time in the property’s airy restaurant and renowned spa, continue onwards to Paso Robles, where you should plan ahead to book a table at the Michelin-starred Six Test Kitchen. There, the seating counter—which can only accommodate 12—wraps around the kitchen for a real-time, behind-the-scenes view of the staff whipping up 12 delicate courses using the bounty of the area’s farms. (Traveling next month? You’re in luck— October is the region’s Harvest Wine Month, when many wineries host special events.)
If you’re looking instead to prioritize the “coast” part of the region’s namesake, follow Carmel-by-the-Sea’s free, self-guided wine walk (get the app for discounts on included wineries’ tastings) before holing up at the romantic, 19th-century Seven Gables Inn, which overlooks Lovers Point Beach in Monterey. Admire the stained glass windows and Victorian architecture; plus, every single one of its 25 rooms offers views of the water.
Take the 101 straight to Livermore’s iconic Wine Trolley, which shuttles riders to three local vineyards for tastings. Or sit down for a casual picnic at Del Valle Regional Park with a sandwich from Ofelia’s Kitchen and a bottle from First Street Wine Company. Make a stop at McGrail Vineyards before unpacking your suitcase for a stay in one of The Purple Orchid Resort & Spa’s 10 fireplace-equipped rooms and suites. Nibble on a complimentary, made-to-order breakfast while looking out at the garden or olive orchard from every room. Guests can also enjoy a community event each evening, featuring an olive oil tasting, wine, and cheeses.
Julie Bogen is an experienced writer and digital strategist whose work has been featured in The Atlantic, The 19th News, Cosmopolitan Magazine, and more. She is passionate about storytelling that centers women and marginalized communities, and when not working she's either with her family or in a barre studio.
The tastiest excuse for your next trip across the border, according to a seasoned local
No trip to TJ is complete without tacos by the kilo, so we asked TJ native Angel Miron, who runs the tour company Let’s Go Clandestino, to do the impossible: narrow down a list of great tacos in his hometown. Here are five of his favorite.
“These guys serve fried fish and shrimp tacos” on a bustling corner in El Centro de Tijuana, Miron says. “Don’t leave without trying the BBQ-grilled smoked marlin taco on a smoky tortilla.”
Miron likes the tacos dorados de birria from this Tijuana shop. “The taquero is known for pumping them out super fast and does a trick with the consomé—pouring it onto the taco without looking,” Miron says.
While Tacos El Franc’s addition to the Michelin Guide has brought an influx of attention, Miron has long been familiar with its charms. “This is the place I used to go to all the time growing up in Tijuana, especially after a night out with the boys,” Miron says. “[Its] specialty is adobada. I really like the suadero taco.”
Founded in 1960, this place keeps it simple with three taco options: shredded beef, beans and cheese, or chicharrón. “They’re what you would call ‘steamed tacos’ because they are prefilled and then kept hot or steamed in pots,” Miron explains. “Then [the restaurant staff] slaps ’em with shredded cabbage, onion, and salsa roja.”
While this casual spot has multiple locations, its original outpost in the Gabilondo neighborhood is still considered the best. “Not only [does it] have tacos dorados de birria, but amazing carnitas—get the masisa with guacamole,” Miron recommends. “And another specialty here is the torta ahogada [or ‘drowned sandwich’] with birote shipped from Guadalajara.”
Mateo Hoke is a journalist and author. His books include Six by Ten: Stories from Solitary, and Palestine Speaks: Narratives of Life Under Occupation.
Amelia Rodriguez is a writer and journalist and winner of the San Diego Press Club's 2023 Rising Star Award and 2024 Best of Show Award, she’s also covered music, food, arts and culture, fashion, and design for Rolling Stone, Palm Springs Life, and other national and regional publications. After work, you can find her hunting down San Diego’s best pastries and maintaining her five-year Duolingo streak.
Northern California's wine country is the epicenter of the growing American truffle industry—here's what to expect for next year's event
People visit Napa for the wine. I went for the fungi.
Every winter, a quiet revolution in American gastronomy unfolds among the vine-flecked hills of California wine country in January. Winter is truffle season, and at the annual Napa Truffle Festival, chefs, farmers, and foodies convene to celebrate that elusive, glamorous, sumptuous, subterranean fungi.
The first Napa Truffle Festival took place in 2010, spearheaded by Robert Chang and Paul Thomas, two entrepreneurs whose combined expertise in engineering and mycology has reshaped the nascent American truffle industry.
The global market has long been dominated by the usual suspects: France, Italy, and Spain, with China and Australia edging in. Chang, an engineer by training, and Thomas, a mycologist, have been working tirelessly to get America into that lucrative club. They focus on cultivating the Périgord black truffle which, at $1,500 per pound, is one of the most expensive fungi on earth (the Oregon black truffle, a lesser product, goes for $50 per pound). California, with its Mediterranean climate and bountiful farmland, is well-poised to grow it.
Chang first encountered truffles in Munich in 2002. Where most would have simply seen a delicious plate of well-garnished tagliatelle, he saw a business opportunity. Soon after, he founded the American Truffle Company (ATC) and recruited Thomas, who had earned a PhD at the University of Sheffield in mycorrhiza, the symbiotic relationship between fungi and plant roots—the very stuff of truffle concoction.
Truffles require patience. After one inoculates the roots of a suitable tree—usually an oak or hazelnut—with spores, it takes around 12 years for a truffle to appear. They require very particular soil conditions. This is why attempts to cultivate truffles in the US have been met with a 98 percent failure rate, Chang says.
Unlike in parts of Europe, where black Périgords flourish naturally, American growers must artificially recreate the precise soil and climate conditions truffles demand. Over a decade in, ATC says they have perfected this formula and claim a 95 percent success rate (one of the key strategies is to add lime to the soil). “The biggest risk in growing truffles isn’t disease or insects,” Chang adds. “It’s the human factor.”
And it is a good time to be figuring it out, as American truffle demand is on the rise. Just look around: truffle burgers, truffle fries, truffle mac and cheese. This surge of demand is apparent at the Napa Truffle Festival, which has attracted over 300 participants this year. Mostly, these are farmers and landowners who want to get into truffle growing; restaurateurs scouting for new suppliers; and curious foodies like myself and my wife, Ali.
We sit through powerpoint presentations on truffle-dog raising and other esoterica; visit the stalls at Oxbow Market, a bougie food hall in downtown Napa, to taste truffle-laced specialties; and attend dinners served by the Michelin-starred chef Ken Frank, who has crafted truffle-infused dishes for over 40 years at his restaurant, La Toque.
But it is in the forests and fields of Napa Valley where the true truffle magic begins.
Our Saturday starts with a foraging expedition in Las Posadas State Forest. From the Four Seasons Napa, our luxurious retreat for the weekend in sleepy Calistoga, we drive out in the Lucid, a flashy high-end electric sports car on offer to guests. After navigating a fog-laden mountain road, we emerge beneath cathedral-esque oak trees. The morning air reeks of damp earth. It is sunny and cold. Crows caw.
Truffle quiche in hand, we meet our guide, Norm Andresen, a seasoned fungi forager. His black utility vest bristles with tools: a small brush, a spade, a pocket knife for slicing fungi from their hiding places. “Mushrooms are like marriages,” he quips to our small group of foragers. “They’re either symbiotic or parasitic.”
Andresen leads us down a trail that snakes into a misty valley dense with pines. The fog is good for the mushrooms. “On average, most mushrooms are not poisonous,” Andresen informs us.
We pass pockets of red, yellow, and pink mushrooms, and Andresen explains the ways of the forest. “You can see the war between the redwoods and conifers,” he says, noting how the towering redwoods shade out their rivals. “They’re putting an embargo on the sun.” We marvel at the mycological diversity piling up in a basket as we go: turkey tail, King Alfred’s cake, a perfectly golden chanterelle.
But mushroom foraging is a tranquil affair. The real action takes place a few hours later, when we get to see the truffle dogs at work. About 60 festival-goers gather at Raymond Vineyards in St. Helena for a demo, sipping Champagne beside a small orchard of hazelnut and oak trees. The air is bright and crisp, with the Napa hills rising green and rocky in the distance. Frogs croak from the reedy banks of a dark pond.
Three handlers fit their dogs with harnesses, signaling go-time. There is a corgi, a German shepherd, and two Lagotto Romagnolos; Alana McGee, founder of Truffle Dog Co., explains that this latter breed has been trained for centuries in Italy to sniff out truffles. Unlike pigs, which were traditionally used for truffle hunting in Europe, dogs don’t have a taste for the prized fungi (though sometimes they still do try to eat them, she notes).
The excitement is palpable when Flora, the German shepherd, darts between the hazelnut trees, sniffing intently at the roots. We all watch, mesmerized, as Flora finds her first prize, scratching wildly into the dry earth. “Don’t eat it! Do not eat it!” her handler, Aiko Vail, shouts. When Vail and Flora aren’t truffle hunting, they’re doing search and rescue work around Washington state. Vail herself does not like the taste of truffles.
She pulls out a treat from her fanny pack, calling “Candy!” Flora bounds towards her, and Vail whispers sweet praise into her ear.
“Some dogs don’t want any chit chat,” she announces. “Some love it. You have to know your dogs.” It is clear that their relationship is a symbiotic one.
Truffle farmers don’t unearth their finds until they have a buyer. With a half-life of a mere five days, fresh truffles begin to decay quickly, one reason they’re so pricey. So truffle dog handlers hired by orchard owners mark each discovery, so that the owners can wait until the last moment to harvest.
Once unearthed, black truffles smell like “pineapple and cake batter,” Vail says, while white ones have an aroma resembling “gasoline” or “horseradish.” European truffle supplies have been declining due to climate change, which are making conditions too dry. But in Napa, through scientific intervention, growers like Raymond Vineyards are creating an American future for the industry.
On our last day, Ali and I embark on a morning hike near our hotel. The Oat Hill Mine Trail affords splendid views of vineyards sun-bating in the valley below. Afterwards, we enjoy a wine tasting at the nearby Elusa Winery before grabbing lunch—turkey sandwiches with truffle chips and a local rosé—at Oxbow Market. For dinner at Truss, an onsite restaurant at the hotel, we decide to lean into the spirit of the weekend and go full fungi: roasted chicken with black truffle jus and tagliatelle in black truffle butter. Rich, earthy, delectable. You can practically taste the effort.
Brent Crane is a freelance reporter based in South Park, San Diego. His reporting has been published in the Economist, the New Yorker, Bloomberg Businessweek and elsewhere. Check out his work at www.brent-crane.com.
Stake Chophouse & Bar brings contemporary classics and old-school service to the heart of Coronado
Stake Chophouse & Bar isn’t your average steakhouse. Blue Bridge Hospitality’s Coronado outpost is a modern interpretation of a big-city steakhouse nestled in the heart of the small coastal community. The team at Stake has reimagined the whole steakhouse experience. By prioritizing a seasonal farm-to-table sourcing philosophy, a personalized guest experience, and unique service touches, like a formal steak presentation and a bespoke knife selection process, Stake distinguishes itself in a sea of steakhouses.
Exceptional steaks, including Wagyu from Japan, Australia, and the U.S., and fresh seafood flown in daily form the core of Stake’s culinary identity. The menu features a five-course omakase-style steak experience highlighting house favorites, plus an array of cuts, and classic steakhouse staples—think a wedge salad, baked potato, or pasta carbonara—refined for a contemporary palate without losing their traditional appeal. Stake focuses on seasonal sourcing from the region’s best family farms and specialty purveyors, and incorporates intentionally unexpected touches to create something truly unique.
“I challenge our chefs and myself to take it a step further in sourcing,” says Chef Ronnie Schwandt. “It’s important to us to highlight different farms, unique one-off farms—whether it’s cattle, strawberries, a local fisherman or from anywhere in the United States, we’re always trying to find that niche.”
Beyond the menu, Stake emphasizes outstanding service, says Vinny Spatafore, Director of Hospitality Operations. Staff maintains detailed notes, allowing them to remember guests by name, recall previous orders such as a favorite martini (also memorable for the customer since it’s served in an extra tall, distinctly-shaped glass), and celebrate special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries.
“When you have those points of topic that you remember about a guest, they appreciate that,” he says. “Our servers are really good with that—we have a couple servers who have been here since the beginning and they’ll remember somebody from years ago, their name, their kids’ names, where they live. I’m really thankful to have a great front of house staff.”
Award-winning wines, rare whiskeys, special events, and a complementary black car service that provides transportation for guests throughout Coronado add to Stake’s appeal.
Schwandt stresses that Stake offers more than a meal; they aim to give patrons something unforgettable.
“It starts when you walk up the stairs and are greeted by the hostess—that sets the tone for the night. Then you’re greeted by a server, who may know you by name, and can guide you through the menu and curate as they get to know you,” says Schwandt. “Most people leave kind of blown away; they leave feeling like they just had an experience. That’s the goal, right? Whether you’re serving smash burgers or high-end steak, you want somebody to leave thinking, Wow, that was awesome.”
Grab your friends and family and head to these local venues for this season's holiday gatherings, events, and receptions
Happy holidays! It’s the season of twinkling lights, warm mugs of hot chocolate, glistening snow (up in Julian, anyway), and… your great-aunt Sheila’s terrible “famous” cranberry sauce. While cheer is in plentiful supply this time of year, so is the stress that comes with it. From gift-giving and planning to in-laws and expenses, orchestrating a holiday dinner with picky eaters and demanding extended family members can be a daunting task.
So why host? Take that turkey smoker out of your Amazon cart. Instead, book a table for 10 (or 20 or 30) at one of these crowd-friendly eateries. Whether you’re seeking an impromptu friendsgiving destination, a spacious spot for your family’s holiday dinner, or a dazzling venue fit for hosting a festive reception, here are the top restaurants in San Diego to accommodate large groups.
Overlooking the San Dieguito Lagoon, Viewpoint Brewing offers a laid-back gastropub setting perfect for sizable North County gatherings. Their roomy, dog-friendly patio is a great spot to enjoy a sunset while sipping local craft beers and munching on bar-food favorites like battered fish tacos and smoked gouda mac n’ cheese. Got all the in-laws coming? Book a private event for up to 60 people.
2201 San Dieguito Drive, Suite D, Del Mar
Home to possibly the most expansive outdoor patio space in town, Stone Brewing’s Liberty Station is a haven for large groups and parties in San Diego. While they’re known for their comprehensive draft list (featuring the salt-and-lime Buenaveza and the beloved Delicious IPA), beer isn’t the only thing on the menu at Stone.
Food offerings include fish tacos, burgers, pizzas, and salads—nontraditional holiday eats, sure, but friendly to even the pickiest diners. With amenities like a bocce ball court, an outdoor movie courtyard, koi ponds, and fire pits, the property can accommodate groups ranging from 20 guests to a staggering 1,300 people. Better start sending invites!
2816 Historic Decatur Road, Suite 116, Point Loma
Located on the north end of East Village, Punch Bowl Social offers more than 24,500 square feet of space, making it a great spot for a holiday gathering. While reservations are available, they’re often not required, as this expansive space has plenty of nooks for large groups to gather across two floors. Highlights at this downtown watering hole include a 360-degree bar, their signature fishbowl cocktails ideal for sharing, and a large menu offering something for even the pickiest eaters. Think of Punch Bowl Social as a classier Dave & Buster’s with activities like bowling, darts, ping-pong, photo booths, shuffleboard, and private karaoke rooms.
1485 E St, East Village
A hub for Sorrento Valley tech workers, Gravity Heights also suits large impromptu gatherings. The centrally located pub offers ample indoor and outdoor seating, locally brewed craft beer, and bites like wild mushroom pizza and falafel burgers. Plenty of fun and games await for groups that reserve the brewery’s private mezzanine, which is equipped with a private bar, an arcade machine, shuffleboard, a convertible pool table, and lounge seating for 18 guests (or 36 sans pool table).
9920 Pacific Heights Boulevard, Sorrento Valley
Navigating large dinners in the bustling Convoy District can be difficult, but Common Theory rises to the occasion. This Kearny Mesa brewhouse offers an Asian twist on bar cuisine with offerings like duck fat fries, sesame fried shishitos, and baked pork belly mac and cheese (plus plenty of local beer taps). A tasteful get-together spot with a parking lot, Common Theory accepts private event reservations for groups of 16 guests or more.
4805 Convoy Street, Clairemont Mesa
Nestled at the end of the Shelter Island peninsula, Bali Hai offers bay-front scenery and island vibes perfect for you and your closest 200 friends. If you’re a San Diego local, chances are you have attended a wedding reception or rehearsal dinner here (and had one too many of their famously potent mai tais). The 69-year-old establishment offers a diverse assortment of Hawaiian-inspired event spaces available for reservation, including the South Pacific Room (200 guests) featuring a bamboo dance floor, the Hawaiian Village with an outdoor pavilion and private bar (200 guests), or the more private Tiki Room (28 guests).
2230 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island
Cole Novak is an award-winning writer with a passion for highlighting local figures, small businesses, and nonprofits. Born and raised in San Diego, Cole is passionate about photography, surfing, art, the local food scene, and the great outdoors.
Where to eat in the Canadian metropolis boasting a variety of international cuisines and global fare
Sometimes it seems the whole world is in Toronto— just one five-hour, nonstop flight from San Diego. Immigrants make up nearly half of the Canadian city’s population, and among its 174 neighborhoods are a “village,” “town,” or “little” version of almost every community you can think of.
Searching for saganaki? Hit Greek town on the Danforth. Thali? Head to Little India in the east end. Momos? Parkdale’s Tibetan dumplings come fried or baked. Craving sweets? Little Portugal slings pastéis de nata, the tiny, cinnamon-dusted offspring of a créme brulée and a tart. And shumai? There are two Chinatowns downtown and four more in the Greater Toronto area. The range of food options speaks to the diversity of the city, as do its hotels, which bear their own global influences.
The Shangri-La Toronto, for instance, nods to the traditional décor of the hotel chain’s Hong Kong hometown in its sleek and expensive guest rooms. Its onsite spa, however, draws upon the Middle East, while the hotel restaurant, Bosk, offers Northern Italian food by way of Canadian produce.
For a hipper vibe, go with the historic Broadview Hotel in the east end. It has a lively rooftop restaurant with a view and rooms equipped with quirky wallpaper and vinyl record players. Or choose the Gladstone House on Queen West, one of Toronto’s oldest hotels. A refresh brought local art and funky mood lighting to contrast the building’s exposed brick walls.
To do Toronto right, start at Kensington Market. On a food tour from Chopsticks & Forks, I learn that Kensington began as a Jewish market. By 1931, 80 percent of all Jewish people dwelling in Toronto lived in and around the Kensington Market neighborhood just west of downtown, most from Eastern Europe. After the second World War, however, waves of immigration brought people from all over the world—from Asia, the Caribbean, Eastern Europe, and beyond.
These days, two synagogues call the area home alongside a cultural collision of many different communities. As you explore the market’s streets, you may hear a Bob Marley song emanating from one door, someone playing an accordion down the street, and an old man busking on an erhu (akin to a Chinese fiddle) on the corner. In less than three hours, we sample foods from nine countries and five continents, passing vintage clothing boutiques, bulk spice stores, butchers and cheese shops, specialty markets, and bohemian cafés along the way. After a smoked trout bagel sandwich from NU Bügel—a bakery started up by two Venezuelan friends—I scarf Jamaican food at Golden Patty, then wash down bites from Chilean-owned Jumbo Empanadas with a bright yellow Peruvian soft drink called Inca Kola. At Koi Japan Sushi, I nibble salmon avocado sushi, wrapped in tofu instead of seaweed and sprinkled with flakes of 18-karat gold. We finish our tour with a stop for a cookie and a rooibos tea at Fika Café, a Swedish coffee shop with a cozy room in the back where one wall is papered with open books.
And Kensington is just one of many markets in the city. St. Lawrence Market was the city’s first, beginning operations in 1803. Now spread over three buildings, it’s hopping with people picking up fresh fruit and vegetables; visiting seafood stalls, bakers, and butchers; and buying local favorites, like the peameal bacon sandwich.
Of course, food choices aren’t merely sequestered in the city’s markets. There are almost 9,500 restaurants in Toronto, including more than 80 Michelin-recognized spots, so visitors can’t run out of places to explore, even if they try.
At Adrak Yorkville, a fine-dining Indian restaurant, the rani kachori my husband and I share resembles a dispatch from Barbieland, its yogurt sauce dyed bright pink with beetroot and its crispy, puffed puri shell stuffed with veggies and adorned with edible flowers.
The next night, we dine on an outdoor patio at Viaggio, an Italian restaurant near the west end’s Polish turned-hipster Roncesvalles Village. We began with the panzanella, the implied stodginess of a bread salad made light and refreshing with the addition of heirloom tomatoes, buffalo mozz, and wild leeks. It stands in perfect contrast to our next plate, the mafaldine, a rich tomato-based ragu with bone marrow, sausage, and rapini. And then dessert: tiramisu pancakes drenched in a warmed espresso syrup and topped with mascarpone mousse and a dash of cocoa.
The following week, we bike downtown to the Northern Thai spot PAI, where we descend a staircase into a labyrinth of connecting rooms with colorful flags draped from the ceiling. Our meal begins with the plum mule cocktail, a sweet, spicy take on the Moscow mule with plum wine in the mix.
A couple of nights later, I end up at BB’s Diner, an unpretentious Filipino restaurant bearing cozy booths and stools perched around an omakase-style bar. I start with the G&T—made with a cordial based on calamansi, a citrus native to the Philippines—then dig into the Adobo fried chicken with pineapple habanero sauce.
Toronto, truly, is a great place to get full. But while food tells you much about a city’s culture, Toronto’s diversity is also something you can see, feel, and hear.
The city loves its street festivals, from celebrations of salsa dancing on St. Clair and the Polish festival on Roncesvalles to the Ukrainian Festival on Bloor West and the Toronto Caribbean Carnival, the largest of its kind in North America. The colder months bring an ice sculpture fest, light shows, and winter markets.
Toronto’s more than 60 galleries and museums, too, reflect the breadth of the city’s cultures. Venture beyond standbys like the Royal Ontario Museum, Art Gallery of Ontario, and Museum of Contemporary Art to wander lesser-known but equally fascinating spaces such as the Aga Khan Museum, which showcases Islamic art and artifacts amid stunning, rectilinear architecture. The museum also hosts lectures and poetry, music, and dance performances, including the Duende Flamenco Festival, taking place November 14 to 17.
The newly opened Toronto Holocaust Museum was intentionally designed, says Marketing and Communications Director Michelle Fishman, as a “contemplative space” where visitors are invited to “approach the content through the lens of their own unique immigration experiences, efforts at acculturation, [or] lived trauma.” Across town, the Native Canadian Centre of Toronto offers free tours, giving visitors the chance to explore the city’s Indigenous Canadian roots.
Wellness opportunities also abound, accommodating more customs and budgets than other towns might. An hour-long Thai massage on Bahn Thai Spa’s traditional floor mats will set you back a mere 100 Canadian dollars (about 75 US bucks), while those seeking decadence can invest hundreds into a facial with French ingredients at Hotel X’s fancy Guerlain spa. At the South-Western Bathhouse, tucked in a back alley on the side of a strip mall in Mississauga, you can unwind the Russian way, sweating in a cedar parilka or Finnish sauna and indulging in the strangely soothing charms of a venik, essentially a whipping with a bundle of tree branches. Throw back a shot of vodka, cup of tea, or hearty bowl of goulash before you leave.
Then, relaxed and fortified, find the nearest map, close your eyes, and point. Chances are, wherever your finger lands, Toronto provides the opportunity to explore a multitude of cultures mere steps away.
Diana Ballon is a Toronto-based travel and lifestyle writer. Her travel writing focuses on outdoor adventure, wellness, fitness, cool hotels, and food and drink. Her stories have appeared in many major North American publications, including The Toronto Star, Zoomer Magazine, The Ethel from AARP, Broadview Magazine, CAA Magazine, Azure Magazine, Canadian Cycling Magazine, Daily Hive, Travel Life Magazine, Cruise & Travel Lifestyles Magazine, Wander Magazine, Vacayou Magazine, vacay.ca and hotel-addict.com.
Take a refreshing trip to Tuolumne County, where your senses will get their fill and your wallet will stay full with off-peak accommodation prices
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It’s that time when all of your senses are awakened by the unmistakable feel, sights, tastes, smells, and sounds of fall and winter. Experience them all in Tuolumne County in Northern California! Discover a different side of Yosemite National Park in the quieter and less crowded destinations. Watch as history comes to life with local tales and vibrant colors in Gold Country. Temperatures are dropping, but cooler adventures are found on the trails and slopes of the High Sierra and at unique events throughout the County.
Take a refreshing trip to Tuolumne County, where your senses will get their fill and your wallet will stay full with off-peak accommodation prices.
Find Serenity in Less-Crowded Yosemite National Park and Surrounding Area
Yosemite
Yosemite has quieted down, and now’s the time for national park adventures and new explorations. Find yourself in awe as you take in the sights among the giant sequoias backdropped by colors of maples and dogwoods and maybe some glistening snow in the Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias. Or, hike around stunning Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.
Wander in Groveland, outside of Yosemite, and enjoy a warming pumpkin spice latte or a one-of-a-kind seasonal brew. Feel like shopping? Pop into some of the unique shops in town to find gifts and seasonal decor to bring home.
Discover an Era Past in Gold Country
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Explore Gold Country starting with the nooks of Columbia State Historic Park, and let your eyes and nose lead you into candle, candy, and provisional shops where their seasonal creations will warm your heart. Listen for clanging from the blacksmith shop or clinking of the authentic stagecoach as it enters town.
In nearby Jamestown, become immersed by the smells, sounds, and sights of Wild West railroad culture at Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, and stroll down Main Street where you’ll find shops, restaurants, and inns housed in picturesque historic buildings.
In Downtown Sonora, you’ll find many shops and restaurants located in historic buildings; as you step inside, you’ll see some interiors are left to show the architecture of 150 years ago. Also, take in a show at the Gold Country’s premier theater company, Sierra Repertory Theatre.
Reach the Mountain Tops in the High Sierra
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High Sierra adventures await where brisk mountain breezes are the perfect excuse for a cozy sweater. Take a hike along the Pinecrest Lake Loop Trail, and catch unreal views of changing leaves set against rugged granite mountains. Feel the invigorating wind in your face as you ski, snowboard, or snow tube down glorious mountain sides.
Visit the nostalgic mountain town of Twain Harte and enjoy a relaxing stroll to find some fun fall fashions or handy cooking gadgets to help with upcoming holiday cooking or gift giving.
Stir Up Your Seasonal Cheer
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Seasonal cheer is found in every town throughout Tuolumne County. Events include Fall Fest at Indigeny Reserve in Sonora and Harvest Festifall in Columbia State Historic Park in October. The night-time Sonora Christmas Parade, the night after Thanksgiving, and the sights and activities of Christmas Town Sonora delight all ages. The Polar Express departs Railtown 1897 State Historic Park for the North Pole on weekends following Thanksgiving.
Plan Your Trip to Tuolumne County
Rush Creek Lodge
You’ll need a place to stay during your visit. Pick from mountain resorts, historic inns, cozy vacation cabins (perfect for gathering the family), distinctive B&Bs, and full-service RV parks.
Start planning your vacation with the help of travel inspiration and information delivered directly to your mailbox. Request your FREE Tuolumne County Travel Guide at VisitTuolumne.com today. Or, call the Visit Tuolumne County team at 209-533-4420.
