Little Italy freaked when the owners of a Pacific Beach burger joint wanted to take over a historic residence. PB! Home to both hooting and hollering! Instead, the Bare Back Grill crew gave unto the frightened gentry Queenstown Public House. Designed by whimsical talent Michael Soriano, it looks like Laura Ingalls got a subscription to Dwell. Sheep in gravity boots hang from a fake-grass ceiling. Grandmotherly knickknacks abut modern, lime-green chairs. Craft beer comes in muffin pans. It’s antiquity, beautifully resuscitated. Sit on the patio. For health, try the big bowl salad (spiced shrimp, mango, papaya, fennel, rocket, mint). For happiness, get the lamb burger with mint jelly, pickled beets, and blue cheese. 1557 Columbia Street
Sam Wells