Plenty of dishes are worth writing home about. But when it’s good enough to fly home with—well, then it’s something special.
“Our location in Tijuana is very close to the airport,” says Aqui es Texcoco owner Francisco Perez. “Some of the pilots will ask the people in the airport to buy four or five pounds of lamb barbacoa from our place to bring back [home] to Mexico City.”
The son of a Spanish father and a Mexican-Jewish mother, Perez learned his family’s now-famous recipe for barbacoa—tender, slow-braised lamb, a sworn-by hangover cure that takes around eight hours to make—from his uncle, who founded Aqui es Texcoco’s Tijuana outpost in 1990 and later sold it to Perez’s parents. Perez worked there on the weekends for extra cash while studying industrial engineering.
Perez held an engineering role in Spain for eight years, but entrepreneurship called, and the fact that pilots from CDMX—where barbacoa spots abound—were turning his family restaurant’s offerings into airmail provided a very big hint that Aqui es Texcoco’s success would be transferable. He also noticed “that a lot of people from the US would go to Tijuana to buy lamb barbecue and bring it back,” Perez says. “So I thought Aqui es Texcoco there was an opportunity to open the US.”
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He launched Aqui es Texcoco’s Chula Vista location in 2008, followed by an outpost in LA earlier this year. The restaurant has summoned big-name guests (including Mexican celeb chef Aarón Sánchez and James Beard Award winner Andrew Zimmern), but Perez’s favorite customers are families. “People getting together and eating together—that’s something we are losing right now,” he says. “So, for me, it’s very important to maintain that kind of tradition, and I like that barbacoa brings families together to eat.”
