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From taco stands to speakeasies, two locals share their favorite ways to experience the real Tijuana
Tijuana is a city shaped by movement. Home to the busiest border crossing in the world, TJ is astir like nowhere else. Despite being a place countless people travel through, the city is no stopover; it’s a destination in its own right. Just make sure you arrive hungry.


Better known as “Nana,” Sánchez is a proud Tijuanense and the founder of walking tour company Nana en Tijuana, with which she showcases the real Tijuana, far beyond border town clichés. We asked her for her insider’s view.
Tijuana native Kevin Gómez’s pandemic project, Aruba Day Drink, quickly became a West Coast cocktail destination, landing on The World’s 50 Best list for North American bars in 2023 and 2024. Gómez knows what new spots are worth trying and which underground classics still warrant a trip, so we hit him up for where to go when touring TJ.
Sánchez says to start in Zona Centro (downtown) or Zona Río, the city’s main hubs for food, shopping, and entertainment. The Cacho neighborhood is the go-to spot for trendy cafés and bars, while Hipódromo offers a bustling stadium and the massive Casino Caliente. Sports fans should visit between January and May to catch a Xolos soccer match, a Toros baseball game, or a Zonkeys basketball showdown, she adds.

Want the ultimate introduction to the city? Book a walking tour with Nana En Tijuana. Stroll through Avenida Revolución, explore the Pasajes for unique local shopping, and visit the history museum in the Antiguo Palacio Municipal. Tijuana’s Cultural Center is the heart of the city’s arts scene, hosting free exhibits and performances. Looking for something quirky? Check out the The Taco Museum for an interactive food experience.

Tijuana is a foodie’s paradise, starting with tacos. Sánchez’s top picks? Birria Sí for rich, flavorful birria tacos; Mariscos El Mazateño for fresh seafood tacos; and Tacos La Pasadita De La 20 for unbeatable carne asada. Want a sit-down experience? Lion Fish serves up incredible seafood, La Casa Del Mole is a must for traditional Mexican cuisine, and Misión 19 delivers a high-end dining experience.
Gómez digs Tacos El Francés‘ carne asada and adobada tacos and recommends that you “make a reservation at Oryx to try the tasting menu and the signature taco negro”—a tweak on the classic Ensendada-style fish taco. Still seeking more tacos? “You can’t go wrong with Las Tres Salsas, Tacos El Vaquero, Vicky’s Tacos, or Taco-N-Todo,” Gómez points out. For seafood, try the ceviche at Mariscos Raúl.
Of course, it’s not only Mexican fare in TJ. To explore other cuisines, “I’d go to Chan’s Bistro for Chinese food, grab a burger at 80/20, or have a pizza slice at Mr. Wink,” Gómez says.
And, there’s Caesar’s, where its namesake salad was invented just over a century ago. “Order half a salad and some snacks from the tapas menu,” Gómez advises. “Trust me, it’s not a tourist trap.”

When it comes to caffeinated bevs, Gómez is partial to Pichino’s Coffee & Crew, Montenegro Café, and Unity Coffee House.
For boozier concoctions, Gómez often heads across the street from Aruba Day Drink to Minimal, an appropriately sleek cocktail bar doing creative and sciencey things with traditional Mexican ingredients. And more mixed drinks await at Nórtico, a speakeasy behind Oryx. Or drop by Dandy Del Sur for its frozen marg. “Order it with Cascahuín Blanco or Orendain,” Gómez suggests.
If craft beer is more your style, try Farland Aleworks, Madueño Brewing Co., and Cervecería Insurgente.
And many of these spots can slake a thirst for cultura, too. “Lately, the jazz scene has been growing in different bars and coffee shops around the city,” Gómez says. “It’s a fantastic midweek option.”
Sánchez starts her day with coffee—recent favorites include Serenne Café for a chagaccino, Brewja Barra De Café for cold brew, or Container Coffee Roaster Co. for house-roasted beans. For breakfast, Carmelita Molino Y Cocina (and its in-house coffee shop Jacinto) is a must, while Inspiración 9 offers a delicious vegan lunch. Dinner? Keep it casual with Los Muñecos’ tacos de papa. To end the day, explore Tijuana’s nightlife— join a free dance lesson, catch a lucha libre match, or do an impromptu bar crawl through Zona Centro.
Mateo Hoke is a journalist and author. His books include Six by Ten: Stories from Solitary, and Palestine Speaks: Narratives of Life Under Occupation.
Amelia Rodriguez is a writer and journalist and winner of the San Diego Press Club's 2023 Rising Star Award and 2024 Best of Show Award, she’s also covered music, food, arts and culture, fashion, and design for Rolling Stone, Palm Springs Life, and other national and regional publications. After work, you can find her hunting down San Diego’s best pastries and maintaining her five-year Duolingo streak.
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