Watch This Cooking Show Filmed in Rancho Santa Fe

So this one is breaking. I don’t have all of the details. But when pressed to name my “favorite chef in San Diego,” the answer always includes a handful. But it always includes Patrick Ponsaty, the ex-Loews and El Bizcocho chef, one of only two Master French Chefs in San Diego (the other being Bernard Guillas at Marine Room).

Now he has his own restaurant, and it’s rumored his name will be part of the name of the restaurant. A well-deserved and long overdue development in San Diego’s food scene. He and his partner have taken over Delicias in Rancho Santa Fe. They are planning an extensive remodel. Though its own very affluent island in northern San Diego, it will be worth your drive out there. Trust me. Everyone I send to Ponsaty returns to say their lives have changed in an imperceptibly joyful way.

A few years ago, Ponsaty left Loews to join local businessman Brian Bonar’s emerging restaurant business. He’s been overseeing culinary at their Escondido bistro, Bellamy’s. He’s also cooking at Bonar’s historical ranch, Bandy Canyon.

And now the news breaks today that they’ve bought Delicias, the Rancho Santa Fe restaurant that’s been there for 26 years.

This is very, very good news. More of it to come.

Top SD Chef Gets New Restaurant

JAZZ HANDS: Little Italy’s 13,000-square foot jazz supper club, vacant since early last year, sounds to have new owners. Originally, it looked like an L.A. group was set to invade, but multiple sources have told us that local Tim Aaron—who recently took over both Nicky Rottens locations—is heading the project now. Calls to Aaron haven’t been returned so we have zero direct confirmation. But we’re told they’re doing a big remodel and plan to open in June.

GOSPEL ACCORDING TO LEUC: Leucadia’s little food renaissance is on. The last couple years has seen Fish 101, Solterra Winery + Kitchen and Regal Seagull move into one of the last funky beach communities in SD. The new project from Vigilucci’s group—Robby’s—is reportedly coming along beautifully, but slow. Now Leucadia is getting Bull Taco—the proudly “inauthentic Mexican” joint made famous because a couple surf punks served creative tacos (lobster chorizo, shrimp curry, even foie gras back when it was legal) out a window overlooking the beach. The new location is going into the former Jamroc (101 N. Coast Hwy 101). There’ve also been rumors that Bull Taco would take over Woody’s in Solana Beach (near CPK, formerly fine dining joint Blanca). But a BT rep says “no, not yet.”

SAN DIEGO MEANS BEER IN GERMAN: Craft beer bottle shops are the new wine bar. Bottlecraft in Little Italy and North Park has obviously done a great job. Now Solana Beach is getting one with San Diego BeerWorks—also going into the Beachwalk Retail Center in the former space of Cupcake Love.

NICE PLACE NEEDS CHEFS: Rancho Santa Fe’s top property Rancho Valencia has lost both exec chef Eric Bauer and sous chef James Noonan. We knew Noonan was leaving to be top toque for Urban Plates, but weren’t sure about Bauer’s new gig. Now Eater’s reporting Bauer has joined catering company H Events, which handles the annual Diner En Blanc. Look for Rancho Valencia to make a big new hire to helm its signature restaurant, Veladora. That $1M Damien Hirst art almost demands it.

TOTALLY UNCONFIRMED RUMORS: By no means are the following cemented nor confirmed, but… A source has told us that the long-shuttered On Broadway has a new owner. Our source also told us that the new club will be called YOLO—the internet acronym for You Only Live Once. Just kind of lets the soul leak out of ya, doesn’t it? Pray harder…. Oggi’s Pizza is reportedly working on opening a bunch of new locations around SD, concentrating the first efforts near SDSU… Pirch—the high-end kitchen showroom that hosts a slew of top-notch culinary events—is expected by expecters to open a few more spots around the city soon…. Three big renovations planned for iconic SD spots: The Catamaran Resort (Pacific Beach), The Horton Grand Hotel (Downtown) and Baleen (at Paradise Point in Mission Bay, home to talented chef Amy DiBiase)….  Keep your eye on the great and mighty Pannikin coffee shop in Del Mar’s Flower Hill Promenade. We have reason to believe there may be some big changes coming to that space as FHP continues its overhaul… We’re also hearing that PB Fish Shop has just signed on for a second location in Encinitas, and are planning a few more…

Three Dots and a Hunger: Jan. 31

JAZZ HANDS: Little Italy’s 13,000-square foot jazz supper club, vacant since early last year, sounds to have new owners. Originally, it looked like an L.A. group was set to invade, but multiple sources have told us that local Tim Aaron—who recently took over both Nicky Rottens locations—is heading the project now. Calls to Aaron haven’t been returned so we have zero direct confirmation. But we’re told they’re doing a big remodel and plan to open in June.

GOSPEL ACCORDING TO LEUC: Leucadia’s little food renaissance is on. The last couple years has seen Fish 101, Solterra Winery + Kitchen and Regal Seagull move into one of the last funky beach communities in SD. The new project from Vigilucci’s group—Robby’s—is reportedly coming along beautifully, but slow. Now Leucadia is getting Bull Taco—the proudly “inauthentic Mexican” joint made famous because a couple surf punks served creative tacos (lobster chorizo, shrimp curry, even foie gras back when it was legal) out a window overlooking the beach. The new location is going into the former Jamroc (101 N. Coast Hwy 101). There’ve also been rumors that Bull Taco would take over Woody’s in Solana Beach (near CPK, formerly fine dining joint Blanca). But a BT rep says “no, not yet.”

SAN DIEGO MEANS BEER IN GERMAN: Craft beer bottle shops are the new wine bar. Bottlecraft in Little Italy and North Park has obviously done a great job. Now Solana Beach is getting one with San Diego BeerWorks—also going into the Beachwalk Retail Center in the former space of Cupcake Love.

NICE PLACE NEEDS CHEFS: Rancho Santa Fe’s top property Rancho Valencia has lost both exec chef Eric Bauer and sous chef James Noonan. We knew Noonan was leaving to be top toque for Urban Plates, but weren’t sure about Bauer’s new gig. Now Eater’s reporting Bauer has joined catering company H Events, which handles the annual Diner En Blanc. Look for Rancho Valencia to make a big new hire to helm its signature restaurant, Veladora. That $1M Damien Hirst art almost demands it.

TOTALLY UNCONFIRMED RUMORS: By no means are the following cemented nor confirmed, but… A source has told us that the long-shuttered On Broadway has a new owner. Our source also told us that the new club will be called YOLO—the internet acronym for You Only Live Once. Just kind of lets the soul leak out of ya, doesn’t it? Pray harder…. Oggi’s Pizza is reportedly working on opening a bunch of new locations around SD, concentrating the first efforts near SDSU… Pirch—the high-end kitchen showroom that hosts a slew of top-notch culinary events—is expected by expecters to open a few more spots around the city soon…. Three big renovations planned for iconic SD spots: The Catamaran Resort (Pacific Beach), The Horton Grand Hotel (Downtown) and Baleen (at Paradise Point in Mission Bay, home to talented chef Amy DiBiase)….  Keep your eye on the great and mighty Pannikin coffee shop in Del Mar’s Flower Hill Promenade. We have reason to believe there may be some big changes coming to that space as FHP continues its overhaul… We’re also hearing that PB Fish Shop has just signed on for a second location in Encinitas, and are planning a few more…

Three Dots and a Hunger: Jan. 31

One of SD’s top chefs is getting a new room. James Beard Award nominee Carl Schroeder will get a few days off Oct. 14-24 when Market Restaurant + Bar closes for a complete remodel. Local design firm Basile Studio is handling. Judging by Paul Basile’s past work (Craft & Commerce, Bankers Hill, Polite Provisions, etc.), the new Market should be fun to look at.

Market partner Terryl Gavre is quick to point out that this will not be anything like Craft & Commerce. But that fantastic spot is an example of Basile’s work, and why we should all give a damn about this news.

Gavre says they’re adding a wood-stone oven to the bar area and rolling out a new casual menu cooked exclusively in the hot pit (flatbreads, roasted meats, shellfish, etc.). They’re also opening up what was formerly known as the “Red Room” (the lounge off to the side), making it part of the main dining room. Custom glass doors will give ‘em the option of sealing it off for a private party.

Gavre on the aesthetic of the new space: “The finish materials haven’t been finalized yet, but we’re using natural materials, warm woods, neutral colors. The look will be a comfortable, ‘Napa style.’ Our location close to the hills and horse farms of Rancho Santa Fe lends itself to the same feel of the wine country. So it seemed a natural direction.”

NEW FACE: Market Del Mar

Veladora

Dear Grandma,

It’s with a heavy heart that I write today. I wanted to tell you in person, but with your valves not as valve-like as they once were, I felt I should prepare you for your an­nual respite in Rancho Santa Fe.

San Diego is different. Shamu still draws a crowd, but a smaller and sadder one. Bartenders are extinct; the polite nomencla­ture is now “mixologist.” They’re very artistic, and sensitive.

So much change. Including your favorite spot in all of life—The Restaurant at Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa. Remember the blue-and-yellow Spanish tiles? How you said they reminded you of a swimming pool at a very affordable motel? They’re gone. Remember how you’d have me recite the jokes from Ladies’ Home Journal while you crocheted by the sunny window? How some jokes, especially ones about ironing, were so funny that you spilled your tea? Well, the restaurant is less Ladies’ Home these days.

There’s no easy way to say it. The place you loved is gone, Grandma. But if I can convince you of anything in this letter, it’s that… it’s beautiful! World-class! They spent $30 million making the Relais & Châteaux property even more Relais-y.

The new owners (their dad created Qualcomm, which makes phones without cords) brought in a flashy designer. His business name is Mr. Important Design, which I’ll take at face value because the new room looks important. The restaurant is now called Veladora, which is I believe is Italian for “over budget.”

It’s appointed with beautiful hunting-lodge wooden frames, iron chandeliers, and candles galore (I just consulted the Internet—it seems veladora is actually Span­ish for “candle”). The centerpiece is a huge, brightly colored piece of art that looks like a Buddhist mandala, or a splayed-out collection of tie-dyed t-shirts. But it’s made of hundreds of real butterfly wings and cost $1.1 million! The artist’s name is Damien Hirst. He’s British and famous for putting dead animals behind glass.

There’s a new cocktail den called the Pony Room. I know, I know. Grandpa said places named after animals were always “sellin’ flesh.” And I guess they are—Kobe beef sliders on brioche with Béarnaise, candied garlic chicken wings, wood-fired pizzas, and salamis they make them­selves. They have more than 100 tequilas, so I tried the Neck Shot cocktail with blanco tequila, serrano-infused simple syrup, and house-made grapefruit soda. My wife you don’t approve of chose the Peachy Paddock Mule with Bulleit Rye, fresh peaches, house-made ginger beer, and lime juice. Both were remark­ably fresh, as if some prankster spiked your hand-squeezed juice. That said, our cocktails tasted nearly identical; some nuance is desired.

The Pony Room is, however, one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had an in­distinguishable cocktail. The wooden barstools are branded like cattle, standing on hoof-shaped feet! The wallpaper is textured. There are deep leather chairs, oil paintings, candle-shaped light bulbs, and a massive hutch filled with stemware. It smells like new leather and feels like home, if my home were prettier.

We’ve eaten there twice now. The first evening, the maître d’ walked us through Veladora’s warm, lovely main dining room and its legion of throw pillows, and sat us in the Sunrise Room. Remember this room? Such sentimental value! Unfortu­nately, that’s its only allure. Compared to the main dining room’s $1.1 million supply of butterfly wings, both Unapproved Wife and I felt like we’d been banished to the kids’ table. So remember to ask to sit in Veladora’s main area, or just eat in the Pony Room.

Veladora’s chef is Eric Bauer, formerly of that jazz club called Anthology, and the Four Seasons. He uses produce from local farms, including a famous patch of earth called Chino. All of his herbs are grown on-property. He also has six honeybee hives! And an olive grove to make his own oil! He is The Luckiest Chef in the World.

Do try his slow-poached Maine lobster salad, Grandma. You won’t miss the may­onnaise dressing, I swear. It has pickled and roasted beets, so sweet, with avocado and tufts of burrata cheese in a lemon vinaigrette. It’s art on a plate. The wild-caught ono crudo we didn’t love as much. The tang from pickled apples, white soy, and poached black mustard seeds over­whelmed the roasted pepper oil and silky ono. The steak tartare comes out in a generous roll. It looks like a sausage someone forgot to cook; but just scrape off a bit of the salty lemon-and-caper aioli and it’s very good.

Bauer is making excellent extruded pastas! The kind pressed through bronze dies (like a gun chamber for pasta) with durum wheat for that rough, textured surface that catches every bit of sauce! Both the lamb osso bucco and Bolognese with Reggiano cheese were lovely. The wild mushroom risotto with whipped mascarpone and Reggiano had great creamy-forest flavor—though we did find the rice a bit hard-centered, as if someone had a lapse and added cold stock.

Now, I know you’ve called vegetarians “bony fanatics,” but they’ve spawned and grown in number. Bauer is thoughtful to include two options for them. The Anson Mills polenta with wood-roasted ratatouille ragout and smoked tomato sauce is sinfully creamy, with enough vegetable acid to give it a kick. I’d like a touch less cream and a bit more polenta grit, but that’s a quibble.

You must try the sautéed Scottish trout with braised millet (it’s a very old grain, appar­ently good for your constitution), roasted and smoked turnips, mussels, and fennel-orange reduction. Oh, my. The skin cracks like glass, and the meat is perfectly cooked (a few de­grees past raw in center). Bauer also manages to keep his Berkshire pork tenderloin from drying out—a feat. It’s a touch salty, but the sunchoke purée and roasted local figs balance that out if eaten as a composed bite.

For dessert, pastry chef Jean Marie Verho­even makes an olive-oil cake with honey-roasted figs and lemon-thyme tuile (fancy thin cookie) and sliced Marcona almonds. It’s good, as is the spiced fruit consommé, served with strawberry bits, lemon verbena, a pista­chio tuile, and citrus mascarpone. A light treat.

I know change is hard, Grandma. I know you loved the old restaurant, but I always felt the phrase “dull torpor” described my feelings about it. I was concerned the new designers would ruin the “soul” of the place. But, I assure you, that $30 million was incredibly well spent.