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James Beard Nominee Tara Monsod on the Rise of Filipino Food

San Diego’s next-gen Filipino American chefs are bringing their adobo roots to the top kitchens
Courtesy of Animae

Multiple-time James Beard nominee Tara Monsod comes in to talk about kitchen life and the rise of Filipino food—the fare she grew up with—in San Diego. She and host Troy Johnson run through their list of the best date spots in the city, including oysters on the only rooftop hideout in North Park (Deckman’s North), a tuckaway in Mission Hills that Troy named “Restaurant of the Year” (Wolf in the Woods), a Point Loma classic laden with enough candles to conjure even the sleepiest libido (The Venetian), and other spots where food doesn’t disappoint the ambiance.

As for Filipino food, it was just a matter of time. Sisig and lechon kawali would not be denied their rightful glories. San Diego has one of the strongest Filipino American communities in the US. For decades, the cuisine was represented by a few staples in National City (shout out, Tita’s Kitchenette). The best adobo was in the parks, cooked by local families. The kids of those families who chose to cook for a living learned in French and Italian kitchens.

Eventually, they’d turn those skills to the dishes they grew up with. In San Diego, chefs like the late Anthony Sinsay, Craig Jimenez, Phil Esteban (White Rice) and Tara are leading the way. 

By Troy Johnson

Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.

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