My apologies for the tumbleweeds that loped across my blog the past two weeks. I got married to Claire, whom you’ll be reading about from now until my death, which I’ve promised her will be delayed. We just returned from our honeymoon and are quite poor now, which inclines me to write to earn some money.
We’d considered honeymooning at a resort on a white-sand beach within an Uber ride of the equator, a place where sloth may still be a deadly sin but it’s included in the package. But neither Claire nor I can resort for more than a couple days. My resort behavior usually goes something like this: I’m splendidly relaxed the first two days, then day three boredom leads me to discover I have a new favorite breakfast tequila, and by 2 p.m. my motor skills are somewhere between sloppy and de-boned, so I decide to text a famous musician I’m very loosely acquainted with, explaining once again that I got a college degree in poetry 20 years ago and asking if he wants to collaborate on some new songs. His reply is always the same, which is to change his number.
So Claire and I decided we’d take a 1,500-mile road trip through California. I’m a native. I’ve selfied in front of many attractions. I’ve seen the fog molest the Golden Gate, I’ve been to the desert with the famous trees named after white boys from the ’80s. But California is not small and I’ve missed some. For example, I’d never been to Yosemite, never stood in front of those rocks and said, “Jesus, look at those big rocks.” Claire, a native New Yorker, needed to see Malibu (she’s a very smart and cultured person, but has no shame about her curriculum of trashy reality TV, which is all filmed in Malibu, as god decreed).
As for the days in between? We decided to wing it. We had planned the wedding on our own (rather, Claire did, but we’re a team now and I don’t want her to sound alone in her endeavors). We were fine if we didn’t plan anything else for a little while or a decade. We might even sleep in our car, like a couple of Kerouacs, only without the drugs and in a temperature controlled Honda CRV with very reasonable gas mileage. So we packed blankets and La Croix and leftover wedding wine and processed meats and nuts, and just drove.
What the hell does this have to do with food? I’m getting to that. A day before we left, The French Laundry called. One of the most famous restaurants in the world, the petite, ivy-strewn farmhouse in Napa Valley is where chef Thomas Keller cooked food so well that people just formed cults on his doorstep, held seances over his remoulades. His veloute is Steph Curry’s jump shot. Even with a base dinner cost of $325 per person, reservations are mythically hard to get, booked months in advance and non-refundable.
And it’s not just Jeff Bezos and Bill Gates in the shockingly nondescript dining room, which does not have a plant wall or an Instagram wall nor a single Edison bulb. I know dozens of financially responsible middle-class people who have dined here—people who micromanage thermostats because their family’s warmth and comfort, while desirable, is not worth the gas. I know dishwashers who have saved up shift after shift to eat here.
Claire had put us on a waitlist months ago, and the woman on the phone announced they had an opening that Wednesday.
For most Americans, to dine at TFL is not a decision made lightly. Our dinner—with a bottle-and-a-half of excellent wine, plus an opt-in for the Italian white truffle course (never text a chef friend to ask if you should pay an extra $175 for truffles on a dish), and gratuity—would cost us $1,300.
As a Facebook friend said, that’s a Hawaiian vacation.
But to call the French Laundry “dinner,” at this point, is to call the pyramids of Giza “dust triangles.” It’s long surpassed the terrestrial confines of a meal. It’s a mecca for people who, at some point, decided the pursuit of great food and drink is one of their primary reasons to live. For those of us who’ve chosen a career in food, it’s almost mandatory coursework, part of the grand syllabus of a proper education.
The best young chefs in the country uproot their lives to come here. They rent suspect living quarters for weeks or months at a time, just for the chance to perfect their garlic slicing or hear whispers about the secret to see-through consommes. In the enclosed French Laundry courtyard, you can see dozens of them through the aquarium windows of the massive kitchen—heads down, monastically tending to a leek or a tendril of some arcane microgreen. In the corner, at the expediting table, a perch not unlike an umpire’s chair during a U.S. Open tennis match, stands longtime chef de cuisine David Breeden. After our meal, touring the kitchen, he explains that he designed every inch of it to his specifications, a chef’s dream, with the help of the creative team that designed One World Trade.
The best wine experts come to work at French Laundry, the kind of savants who can look at anonymous red juice in a glass and tell you the hillside it was grown in and the religion of its winemaker. And, because they work here, the sommeliers get high-security, retina-scan access to the rarest wines in the world (a good portion of which are grown by their neighbors in Napa).
One of the biggest keys to TFL’s enduring reputation is the patch of earth directly across the adorable, leaf-strewn, two-lane road, the Rodeo Drive of Yountville. It’s the French Laundry gardenfarm, divided into 52 plots. Walking the garden, we see the almost pornographically fertile soil. We see carrots and rosemary and chard and microgreens and chickens and a child’s shoe (seriously, if your child is missing one, it’s by the Jerusalem artichokes). They don’t fence it off. It’s open to anyone, anytime, even includes a map of what’s growing where—”Blue Wind” broccoli, Hakurei turnips, Jerusalem artichokes, Albion parsnips, Red Dragon cabbage, “Red Ace” beets, “Mokum” carrots, “Quickstar” kohlrabi, “Orazio” fennel, “Veronica” cauliflower, etc. The day we’re there, the map is incorrect (it’s September’s map, and we’re there in November).
This is a very important point. The fact that I’m not only mentioning it, but also kind of surprised and even disappointed—that a restaurant doesn’t meticulously update and print out its public garden map—speaks to the insane attention to detail French Laundry has trained its fans to expect. They’re so precise and exact and obsessively compulsed over the concept of not only the perfect meal—but the perfect all-encompassing holistic food experience from seed to puree—that they’d probably be disappointed in themselves if they ever read this.
That can’t be healthy in the long-run, but it bodes well for dinner.
They harvest that garden twice a day for each dinner service. Twice. A. Day. Real “farm to table” cuisine became such a worldwide phenomenon and catchphrase for a good reason. Which is, the flavor and texture and nutrient density of any food we grow takes a slow, steady nosedive the second it’s picked from the earth. No tomato tastes as good as the one eaten straight from a soily farmer hand. For a serious chef, the ground is the most important sous chef.
So the farm-to table you’re getting at French Laundry—unless the farmer sucks, and I’m guessing he or she probably doesn’t—is about as prime and peak and delicious as anything grown in the earth can be.
Standing outside the restaurant, about to spend more money than I have any right to—an amount that feels almost gross, indecent, the epitome of first-world whim—I have so many questions. Will the food be that much better than the thousands of meals I’ve eaten in my 12-year career as a food writer? Will the service be stuffy, make me feel like I’m trespassing in a tax bracket I haven’t yet earned? Will they give me “Oysters and Pearls,” and is the legendary dish really the “Hey Jude” of food, the very best thing? Do I have the right mouth to correctly appreciate the veloute? And the big question, that everyone asks—is it worth it?
We are greeted outside by a friendly gentlemen in a suit, a sort of Peter at the pearly gates. He leads us through the door. It’s dark in here.
The iconic 1,200-acre preserve’s history dates back more than 150 years, evolving from a scrub-filled plot atop a mesa overlooking what’s now Downtown to an urban oasis—the largest of its kind in the country—filled with an array of museums, attractions, gardens, trails, restaurants, and more. Balboa Park is an epic playground where San Diegans and visitors alike can experience the great outdoors just as easily as they can enjoy a world-class performance or explore groundbreaking discoveries.
Tucked away in the Spanish Colonial Revival-style architecture are 18 diverse museums that allow visitors to spend the day learning about, well, anything. A great place to start is the San Diego History Center. Located in the Casa del Balboa building, the museum tells the story of the city’s past, present, and future through photographs and art, clothing and textiles, and interviews with people who witnessed history-making events firsthand. The San Diego Natural History Museum takes visitors even farther back with interactive exhibitions that show what the region was like up to 75 million years ago.
Blast off on a simulated trip to space at the San Diego Air & Space Museum, then check out artifacts from aviation legends, including the Wright brothers, Amelia Earhart, and Buzz Aldrin. Discover new perspectives revolutionizing the science world, learn about an often overlooked but overutilized utility, and exercise your creativity at the Fleet Science Center.
Calling all theater-lovers, Balboa Park has something for you, too. The San Diego Junior Theatre will present their musical take on beloved children’s book A Bad Case of the Stripes from June 26 through July 12. And laugh, cry, and marvel in awe as the pros of The Old Globe perform Kim’s Convenience, the award-winning comedy that inspired the popular series, from May 15 to June 14.
There’s nowhere else in Balboa Park quite like WorldBeat Cultural Center. The institution celebrates African diaspora and indigenous cultures around the world using art, music, dance, and education. The building, a renovated water tower covered in colorful murals, houses a performing arts center, museum, gift shop, cafe, and outdoor classroom.
If you’d like a side of nature with your culture, Balboa Park has you covered there, too. Stroll through the gardens of the Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum, a monument to the relationship between San Diego and its sister city, Yokohama, Japan. Inspired by traditional Japanese design dating back centuries, the 10-acre respite features a living exhibition that showcases plants native to both cities.
If there seems like a lot going on in Balboa Park, it’s because there is. Let theBalboa Park Cultural Partnership be your guide. The organization is the umbrella for 24 of the park’s institutions and offers an Explorer Pass that allows visitors to access multiple museums for one affordable price. The hardest part is picking where to start.
16 Museums, One Pass
Save on admission to San Diego’s top museums with the Balboa Park Explorer Pass. Explore 16 museums of art, science, history and culture across Balboa Park — all with one affordable pass. Choose the option that fits your pace: the Limited Pass (one day for up to four museums), the Parkwide Pass (seven consecutive days of access to all 16 museums) or the Annual Pass (365 days of unlimited exploring).
Looking for an experience-driven gift? Let the museum lover in your life enjoy their favorite museums all year with a Balboa Park Explorer Annual Pass gift voucher.
Bigger experiments, brighter ideas, and boundless curiosity await at the newly reimagined Fleet Science Center. This summer, the Fleet debuts Element 8 Cafe, an expanded theater queuing and concessions space, two new gallery spaces, and, for the first time, a free entrance gallery exploring science in and around San Diego. The transformation marks a new chapter for the Fleet, keeping it a vital, innovative, and accessible science hub for the region. Visitors are invited to explore the experience this summer and connect with the power of science like never before.
Address: 1875 El Prado, San Diego, CA 92101 Website:FleetScience.org Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Phone: 619-238-1233
Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum
An accredited cultural gem, the Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum brings traditional Japanese garden design to life with koi ponds, curving walkways and layers of greenery. Guests explore bonsai trees, streams and peaceful nooks while taking part in exhibits, educational programs and festivals that illuminate Japanese culture. Situated in the heart of Balboa Park, the garden doubles as a meditative retreat and a dynamic gathering place, welcoming visitors to slow their pace and connect more deeply.
Address: 2215 Pan American Road E, San Diego, CA 92101 Website:Niwa.org Hours: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; last admission at 6 p.m. Phone: 619-232-2721
The Old Globe
A San Diego summer favorite, The Old Globe invites audiences to experience a beloved local tradition in its outdoor Lowell Davies Festival Theatre.
This summer, the 2026 Shakespeare Festival presents two thrilling tales of power, passion and romance. Measure for Measure, running June 14 through July 12, 2026, is a riveting story of justice and hypocrisy that asks who holds power, who is punished and what it truly means to be virtuous. Much Ado About Nothing, playing Aug. 2–30, 2026, is a classic rom-com packed with schemes, sparks and laughter as opposites attract. Audiences can enjoy both shows for $44.
Address: 1363 Old Globe Way, San Diego, CA 92101 Website:TheOldGlobe.org Hours: Box office open Tuesday–Sunday, 1 p.m. to final curtain Phone: Box office, 619-234-5623
San Diego Air & Space Museum
Aviation and space exploration come to life at the San Diego Air & Space Museum. See an airworthy replica of the Spirit of St. Louis, a Gee Bee racer and historic aircraft from World War I, World War II and the Korean and Vietnam eras. Get up close to the Apollo 9 command module — one of only 11 of its kind in the world — along with Mercury and Gemini capsules, Mission Control and space shuttle simulators, and a selfie spot beside a lunar lander on the moon. Running through 2026, Ripley’s Believe It or Not! brings oddities from around the world to Balboa Park.
Address: 2001 Pan American Plaza, San Diego, CA 92101 Website:SanDiegoAirAndSpace.org Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Phone: 619-234-8291
San Diego History Center
History belongs to everyone. At the San Diego History Center, two experiences bring that history to life this summer: America at 250 and the Center for Women’s History. America at 250 traces San Diego’s place in 250 years of U.S. history, while summer programs invite children to learn and explore. The Center for Women’s History amplifies the voices of women whose leadership and creativity have shaped our region.
By understanding our past, we build a more vibrant and inclusive community together. These vital educational experiences are only possible through generous community support. Discover your roots, spark meaningful dialogue, and help keep San Diego’s stories alive for future generations.
Address: 1649 El Prado, Suite 3, San Diego, CA 92101 Website: SanDiegoHistory.org Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday–Sunday Phone: 619-232-6203
San Diego Junior Theatre
Junior Theatre is San Diego’s longest-running youth theatre program, empowering students ages 4 to 18 to explore storytelling, performance, and collaboration in a supportive environment. Through classes, camps, and productions, young artists build confidence, creativity, and lifelong skills onstage and off. Each season features a wide range of opportunities, from introductory experiences to advanced training in acting and musical theatre.
Looking for a summer adventure? Junior Theatre’s Summer Camps deliver dynamic programs for grades K–12, including musical theater intensives, acting academies and immersive JT Studio experiences. It’s a place where imagination truly takes center stage.
Address: 1650 El Prado, Suite 208, San Diego, CA 92101 Website:JuniorTheatre.com Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Phone: 619-239-1311
San Diego Natural History Museum (The Nat)
This summer, The Nat is talking trash—literally. Their newest exhibition, Washed Ashore: Art to Save the Sea, features larger‑than‑life marine sculptures made of ocean debris collected from beaches. It invites visitors to explore the impact of plastic pollution and discover ways to take action.
But the experience doesn’t stop at the gallery doors. Friday nights, the exhibition transforms into an ocean-themed “dive bar” during Nat at Night. Select Sundays bring something brand new: a rooftop brunch with sweeping Balboa Park views. Add two new giant-screen films and five floors of nature to explore, and The Nat is shaping up to be one of the season’s must-visit destinations.
Address: 1788 El Prado, San Diego, CA 92101 Website: SDNat.org Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays in summer Phone: 619-232-3821
WorldBeat Cultural Center
The WorldBeat Cultural Center is a nonprofit multidisciplinary cultural organization dedicated to promoting, presenting and preserving Indigenous cultures worldwide through music, art, dance, education, sustainability and community programs. WorldBeat elevates multicultural artists, expands opportunities for cultural enrichment and fosters deeper understanding across traditions. WorldBeat offers a holistic cultural experience that inspires pride, unity, connection and belonging for all ages.
Address: 2100 Park Blvd., San Diego, CA 92101 Website:WorldBeatCenter.org Hours: Classes: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, 6–9 p.m. Exhibits and café: Friday–Sunday, 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Phone: 619-230-1190
Event Calendar
Throughout 2026: Ripley’s Believe It Or Not!
Step into a world of the weird and wonderful at Ripley’s Believe It or Not! at the San Diego Air & Space Museum in Balboa Park. Explore hundreds of bizarre artifacts, interactive displays and unbelievable stories that celebrate the curious and the extraordinary.
Presented in partnership with the San Diego Museum of African American Fine Arts, San Diego’s Lost Neighborhoods uses augmented reality, oral histories, and archival materials to explore communities and residents displaced by redlining, freeway construction, and other discriminatory policies.
Spend a summer night at The Old Globe. The Lowell Davies Festival Theatre stages Measure for Measure (June 14–July 12) and Much Ado About Nothing (Aug. 2–30), offering two unforgettable Shakespeare productions for just $44.
The Old Globe | 1363 Old Globe Way, San Diego, CA 92101
June 8–Aug. 7: Theatre Summer Camps
Summer camps at Junior Theatre spark creativity for grades K–12 with hands-on training, musical theatre intensives, acting academies, and JT Studio experiences.
A museum visit turns into a Sunday Funday with the addition of rooftop brunch, featuring mimosas, bloody Marys, and brunch bites from Wolfish by Wolf in the Woods (June 14, August 9) and Hash House a Go Go (July 12).
Nagashi at the Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum by floating a lantern to honor loved ones who have passed. Stroll merchant booths, enjoy cultural performances in the Inamori Pavilion, and sample food vendors plus a beer and sake garden in the lower garden.
Explore arts, science, history, and culture in the Balboa Park Cultural District with one convenient, affordable Pass. The Balboa Park Explorer Pass is your ticket to up to 16 museums and endless fun! Purchase your pass at BuyMyExplorer.com.
In the heart of Pacific Beach, bar Ella debuted in 2023 with Executive Chef Brendan Nugent at the helm. Drawing on experience from both coasts, Nugent crafts a sustainable, seasonal menu inspired by his Northeast childhood and master‑gardener grandmother. Expect East Coast classics like lump crab cake, garlic shrimp in Old Bay broth and scratch‑made spaghetti with clams. Nugent’s commitment to using every part of each ingredient keeps waste low and the cooking sustainable. At bar Ella, first‑time guests become family.
Try This!
Lamb Lollipop: 24-hour buttermilk and za’atar marinated lamb, roasted, seared and finished with housemade chermoula.
Giuseppe Annunziata, General Manager; Emiliano Muslija, General Manager; Marcello Avitabile, Executive Pizza Chef; & Joseph Serra, Pizza Manager
At Amalfi Cucina Italiana, dining is a celebration of Italian tradition, hospitality and craftsmanship. General managers Giuseppe Annunziata and Emiliano Muslija have created a welcoming atmosphere where every glass of wine and plate of pasta reflects Italy’s culinary heritage.
Executive chef Marcello Avitabile, a five-time world pizza champion, and pizza chef Joseph Serra bring craftsmanship and soul to every dish through handmade pastas, artisan pizzas and authentic Italian flavors. all.
Try This!
Margherita Pizza: With San Marzona tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil, extra virgin olive oil, and prosciutto.
Jeremy Ogorek, Owner & Arturo Aguilar, Chef du Cuisine
At VanMan’s Kitchen, guests can enjoy grass-fed smash burgers, tallow fries, and milkshakes, all prepared with the same the commitment to quality San Diegans have come to expect from VanMan’s soaps and skincare products. That means everything is prepared in-house—and we mean everything, from the ketchup to the mayo to the pickles—and made from organic, natural ingredients. In fact, the fries are cooked in the same high-quality suet tallow that’s used for the company’s skincare products. That’s because when VanMan’s says you shouldn’t put anything on your body you wouldn’t eat, and you shouldn’t eat anything you wouldn’t put on your body, it’s not a cute marketing gimmick. It’s a commitment to always providing customers with the best possible ingredients. Another non-negotiable for VanMan’s Kitchen? Keeping all of this accessible. Expect a welcoming, laidback vibe and price tags that make eating organic food affordable to all.
Try This!
Classic Smash Burger: 100% Grass-fed beef, American cheese, organic lettuce, organic tomato, organic sliced onion, house pickles and burger sauce on a potato bun. Best with a side of tallow fries.
VanMan’s Kitchen
1380 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, California 92109 858-203-3795 | vanmanskitchen.com
Kevin Bang, Store Manager, National City & Jay Oh Store Manager, La Jolla
Tous les Jours has grown into a reputable bakery café franchise since its launch in the U.S. in 2004, with over 200 stores nationwide and more than 1,800 locations worldwide. Tous les Jours specializes in freshly baked breads, pastries, cakes, desserts, and premium beverages. Using only the finest ingredients, the products are known for their unique flavors and wholesome quality, with a wide variety of fresh, delicious items prepared daily for every occasion.
Tous les Jours has built its core strength in making the best kinds of bread, freshy baked in store every morning. The bakery uses carefully selected ingredients to offer stylish cakes and desserts in all types and sizes, depending on the occasion. From bold espresso to handcraft smoothies, the beverages are the perfect accompaniment to the artisan baked goods.
Stop by in June for 50% off a beverage with a purchase of a piece of cake, or a free beverage with purchase of a whole cake.
Try This!
Cloud Cake: Delight in this light and fluffy treat available in fresh cream, strawberry, triple berry, green tea, chocolate, mango and blueberry yogurt.h sake-soy vegetables and furikake onigiri.
Tous les Jours – La Jolla
3363 Nobel Drive, La Jolla, California 92037 858-699-3006 | @touslesjourslajolla
Tous les Jours – National City
1420 East Plaza Boulevard, B5, National City, California 91950 619-773-6033
