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Features SEPTEMBER 26, 2014

Scat! San Diego Jazz

Psst. The local jazz scene is exploding, making San Diego the center of West Coast Jazz

Scat! San Diego Jazz

Seven Grand San Diego

Robert Dove fell in love… with Seven Grand and the San Diego jazz scene

The way he tells it, Robert Dove only came out here from Ohio to visit a girlfriend. But one night, she took him to Seven Grand, a small whisky bar in North Park, and what he heard there became a major tipping point in his life. Dove, 24, went back home and put in for a job transfer. He packed up his horns and his bicycles, and headed out West for good. Romance may have brought him to San Diego, but it was jazz that made him stay.

“I feel like I’ve landed at the front end of the new San Diego jazz scene,” Dove says. A graduate of the prestigious Miles Davis Jazz Studies program at the University of North Carolina at Greensboro, the tenor saxist is one of several young jazz musicians of merit who have settled here in recent months. “I was one of the first,” he says. “Then Grammy winner Curtis Taylor came out here for a gig, and he stayed. Bassist Dean Hulett moved here from Ohio, and pianist Kiefer Shackelford moved back here from Los Angeles.” Add to the list trombonist Matt Hall, drummers Matt Smith and Kevin Higuchi, and alto sax player Charlie Arbelaez. “These guys,” Dove says, “are all great players.”

Jazz is alive and well in San Diego. And the action is drawing new fans to venues that range from back-room speakeasies to poolside hotel patios in the heart of downtown. Along with the steady backbeat of hometown jazz greats like Mike Wofford, Charles McPherson, DownBeat Magazine’s Rising Star Holly Hofmann, and a horn player who you might have heard of named Gilbert Castellanos, the renaissance of West Coast Jazz is happening right here and now.

“A younger generation,” says Jim Rock, husband of restaurateur Ingrid Croce, “is bringing something truly fresh.”

Outside at a corner deli during the dregs of a hot summer afternoon, Dove finishes a pre-show Italian sub and chases it with an Orange Crush. In a few minutes, he will perform at a free jam session with an incendiary lineup that includes piano star Joshua White, Castellanos, Haiduci, and bassist/composer Rob Thorsen. Dressed in a suit and tie, Dove explains why he chose San Diego over a more traditional jazz launch pad like the Big Apple. He says that nothing he ever experienced in New York even came close to the fire coming off the bandstand on that fateful night in North Park.

And no, he says, the girlfriend didn’t work out.

Scat! San Diego Jazz

San Diego Jazz at Seven Grand

In the back room at Seven Grand: tiny stage, big sound

In the back room at Seven Grand: tiny stage, big sound

Three Things to Know About Jazz

1. West Coast Jazz is a distinct sound that was developed in Los Angeles and San Francisco and dates back to the 1940s.

2. Most jazz musicians wear suits. “When you play jazz,” says Gilbert Castellanos, “you dress like you’re going to church, because when you get up on stage, you ARE in church. It’s respect.”

3. It’s easy to find any jazz show in San Diego. Start with the Jazz 88.3 website, that lists virtually every jazz event happening in the city.

Part of the allure of present-day jazz, according to Mark DeBoskey, is that it is being updated. DeBoskey’s been the general manager of KSDS Jazz 88.3 FM for 14 years now, and he’s seen a lot of changes. “Tastes have gone from the traditional jazz that the 50-to-60-year-old crowd gets their collective heads around to a younger sound. The new Great American Standards,” he says, “are jazz covers of the Beatles and Fleetwood Mac.”

Daniel Atkinson has likewise gauged the temperature of the hometown music climate for years. He’s the jazz program coordinator at the Athenaeum Arts Library in La Jolla. Atkinson describes an upturn in attendance by an age group that hasn’t been seen in local jazz venues for sometime. “There is a core of younger fans in their 20s and 30s coming out to clubs who have been turned on to jazz,” he says. “That bodes well for the future of the music.”

But until recent times, hometown jazz has been in a state of torpor, especially when compared to the rich local scene that packed venues during the late ’70s and ’80s. Places like The Crossroads at Fourth and Market, the Pacific Beach and Del Mar cafés, Le Chalet in Ocean Beach, the Bahia, the Safety Club, the Black Frog, the Blue Parrot, Chuck’s Steak House, Elario’s, the Triton, and Tom Ham’s Lighthouse, according to  jazz trumpet player Bruce Cameron. “Kirk Bates ruled Mission Valley,” he says. “And even on Tuesday nights, there would be a line out the door to see CC Jones at the Catamaran.”

Cameron, now semi-retired, has been performing around San Diego for decades. “When the late Hollis Gentry and I started the Humphreys concert series in ’81 or ’82, there were only a few picnic tables there. A local barbecue place provided food. People laid out on blankets and relaxed. Later, we got Art Good involved.” Good was the voice of the popular “Lites Out San Diego” smooth jazz radio series.

Cameron says local jazz fortunes tanked sometime after the mid- to late-1980s. He thinks that nightclub attendance took a hit after DUI laws changed and later, after the popular radio station KIFM dumped its contemporary jazz programming.

But over the past few years, the scene has come full circle, to the point that right now is the best time there has ever been to enjoy jazz here. “Absolutely,” agrees Joshua White, whom the legendary Herbie Hancock described as a cutting-edge innovator after the El Cajon-based artist placed second in the ultra-prestigious Thelonious Monk International Piano Competition. “You can find great jazz here almost every night of the week.”

Scat! San Diego Jazz

Gilbert Castellanos

Gilbert Castellanos plays a show in North Park

Gilbert Castellanos plays a show in North Park

On a Wednesday around dinnertime, Gilbert Castellanos arrives in a courtroom-gray pinstripe suit, blue button-down, and maroon tie. He carries a valise that looks as if it were filled with legal briefs. It is not. It contains his trumpet and a flugelhorn. From the stage in the new music room at Croce’s in Bankers Hill, backed by an acoustic jazz combo, a woman’s voice far more seasoned and mature than the singer’s actual years wraps itself around an old jazz standard. When finished, she turns, blushing, and shoots a nervous grin in her parents’ direction. They are seated nearby in the almost-capacity dining lounge.

“She just won a huge jazz contest,” Castellanos whispers. “They’re going to fly her to Tokyo for the finals.”

Tonight is billed as Gilbert Castellanos’ Young Lions series. It puts jazz musicians as young as high school age on a professional stage in front of an audience, in a rite of passage that is as old as jazz itself. “This kind of experience makes the music,” says Jazz 88.3 program director Claudia Russell. “This is how all the greats got great.”

Castellanos thinks jazz attendance in San Diego has been on a slow upswing for as much as a decade, but credits the Internet with the increase at the younger end of the jazz fan scale. “Ten years ago,” he says, “neither YouTube nor Facebook existed.” He has his hand in a number of successful jazz ventures around the city, including a weekly jam session at Seven Grand and his poolside jazz series at the Westgate Hotel downtown. “We draw upwards of 100 people there.”

Castellanos says he’s bringing a jazz night to Ortega’s, an upscale Mexican restaurant in Hillcrest, next. “Come on, when’s the last time you heard jazz in Hillcrest?” he asks. At the Mandolin Wind, to be exact, and that place shuttered sometime during the ’80s.

Scat! San Diego Jazz

Croce’s Park West Jazz

Gilbert Castellanos performing with Young Lion Kyle Myers (on sax) at the new Croce’s Park West. Castellanos now handles all of the jazz bookings for Croce’s, including the Young Lions series that features young, up-and-coming musicians on stage every Wednesday for a reduced $5 cover.

Gilbert Castellanos performing with Young Lion Kyle Myers (on sax) at the new Croce’s Park West. Castellanos now handles all of the jazz bookings for Croce’s, including the Young Lions series that features young, up-and-coming musicians on stage every Wednesday for a reduced $5 cover.

“When other jazz musicians come here and see the type of audience that supports us, they stay,” Castellanos says. “San Diego, by comparison to Los Angeles, has a real family feel, a community feel among the musicians and fans. It’s almost a small-town mentality.” A lot of the shows in town are free or for a minimal cover, he adds, and they are packed.

In true jazz-mentor style, Castellanos shouts out his encouragement to a 17-year-old saxophone prodigy on stage while the boy winds into a solo that is rich and complex and that makes studied reference to the jazz masters of old. Later, when the student is finished and packing his horn, Castellanos can be overheard describing the kid’s work in a glowing review. “This,” says Castellanos, nodding in the direction of rest of the Young Lions on stage tonight, “this is why I’ll never leave San Diego.”

Scat! San Diego Jazz

Robert Dove and Gilbert Castellanos onstage at Seven Grand

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Arts & Culture SEPTEMBER 9, 2026

Fall Arts Preview 2026

Your checklist for the best stage performances, museum exhibits, and one-night-only cinematic events hitting San Diego this autumn

Fall Arts Preview 2026
Courtesy of the San Diego Opera | Photo Credit: Karli Cadel

Fall Arts Preview presented by SDFC Playmakers

September

Cecil Beaton’s Fashionable World

Museum of Photographic Arts at the San Diego Museum of Art

Now through Jan. 10, 2027

Sift through over 200 photographs, sketches, letters, and costumes from “The King of Vogue,” who photographed World War II, modernized royal portraits, and created the aesthetic for 1920s socialites in London.

Washed Ashore: Art to Save the Sea

Natural History Museum

Now through Feb. 28, 2027

Walk through an 18-foot whale ribcage (and a couple dozen other marine-creature sculptures) made entirely of plastic bottles, flip-flops, lighters, rope, and other plastic detritus found on the beach in the Nat’s 3,000-square-foot second-floor gallery.

Forging a Legacy: 15 Years of Landmark Acquisitions

San Diego Museum of Art

Now through May 31, 2027

Part of SDMA’s centennial, “Forging a Legacy,” highlights artists from the past (Picasso, Monet) and modern day (Hugo Crosthwaite) who contributed to the museum’s collection.

ZWO Astronomy Photographer of the Year

Fleet Science Center

Now through 2027

See the stars (without the smog) at their best from the winners of the world’s largest astrophotography competition—all in the Fleet Science Center’s new basement gallery, specifically dimmed to let the cosmos shine.

Begin Again

The Old Globe

Sept. 6–Oct. 11

From the 2013 silver screen to this year’s The Old Globe stage, you can “Begin Again” (again) with a world-premiere musical adaptation featuring new songs—courtesy of Train—and a story overflowing with hope.

Dear Evan Hansen

Cygnet Theatre

Sept. 9–Oct. 4

“On the outside, always looking in…” marks the emotional crux of the Tony-, Grammy-, and Emmy-award winning musical coming to the Cygnet Theatre.

Kumeyaay Comics by the Kumeyaay Visual Storytelling Project

Museum of Us

Opening Sept. 12

Learn the history of the Kumeyaay Nation from the perspective of the members themselves in an immersive exhibit inspired by graphic novels “Our Past, Present, and Future,” and “Beyond Gaming.”

Good Night, Oscar

North Coast Repertory Theatre

Sept. 16–Oct. 11

During Oscar Levant’s appearances on “The Jack Paar Show,” he explained his reality with mental illness—the institutionalizations, electroshock therapies, nothing was too taboo for him. “Good Night, Oscar” takes us backstage in the raw moments before his 1958 television appearance.

Visiones Nocturnas: Queer Nightlife in Contemporary Art

Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego

Sept. 19–Jan. 10, 2027

A disco ball isn’t just a disco ball. It’s a symbol of where queer communities can finally exhale and be their fullest selves. “Visiones Nocturnas” uses paintings, sculptures, textiles, performances, photos, and videos from Latin American artists to explore what’s at stake when nightclub lights shut off.

Silent Movie Mondays

Balboa Theatre

Sept. 21, Oct. 26, Dec. 7

Guest organists from across the country will come to the Balboa Theatre to accompany a new silent film for each performance. This year closes out with The Headless Horseman (1922), Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde (1920), and a holiday triple feature of Laurel and Hardy films.

Oh, Mary!

Civic Theatre

Sept. 29–Oct. 4

“What if Abe’s assassination wasn’t such a bad thing for Mary Todd Lincoln?” was the question that inspired Cole Escola’s play “Oh, Mary!” In the production, Mary Todd desperately tries to return to the cabaret stage, but her husband (President Lincoln in the midst of the Civil War) keeps getting in the way.

Photo Credit: Anja Koehler

October

Payare Leads Strauss’ A Hero’s Life

Jacobs Music Center

Oct. 3–4

Conductor Rafael Payare opens the San Diego Symphony’s 2026-2027 season with a three-part concert featuring composers Sofia Gubaidulina, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and Richard Strauss.

Emily–No Prisoner Be

Baker-Baum Concert Hall

Oct. 8

Two dozen of Emily Dickinson’s poems are turned into songs—composed by Pulitzer Prize winner Kevin Puts and performed by Grammy-winning mezzo-soprano Joyce DiDonato—for a one-night-only exploration of love, loss, loneliness, and mortality.

Ripcord

The Roustabouts Theatre Co.

Oct. 8–Nov. 1

Roommate beef has no age limit. The latest play from Pulitzer Prize winner David Lindsay-Abaire turns that experience into a comedy through retirement home roommates Marilyn and Abby and the bet between them to see who will break first and move out.

Des Canyons aux Étoiles

La Casa del Zorro

Oct. 12

Composer Olivier Messiaen has chromesthia, so for him, sound evokes a visual connotation. His work “Des Canyons aux Étoiles” brings desert rock and the night sky to mind. See what he means from La Casa del Zorro in the Anza-Borrego Desert, in this performance immersed within nature.

San Diego International Film Festival

Locations Vary

Oct. 13–18

San Diego International Film Festival salutes the silver screen for a 25th time, now with a sixth day adding extra time for parties, screenings, and movie-star tributes.

Rigoletto

Civic Theatre

Oct. 23–25

Considered one of the masterpieces from opera great Giuseppe Verdi, San Diego Opera’s “Rigoletto” sees what happens when the prurient Duke of Mantua and his sharp-tongued court jester become entangled in a fatal curse.

Grim

La Jolla Playhouse

Oct. 27–Nov. 29

When the Grim Reaper’s job becomes too…grim…and he retires after 300,000 years, his daughter picks up the family business. But when she falls for a human and finds beauty in the souls she’s meant to reap, she questions her purpose.

Photo Credit: Ron Kerner

November

Skate Craft

Mingei International Museum

Nov. 21–May 9, 2027

San Diego is nothing without skate culture. Mingei’s “Skate Craft” portrays skateboarding as “living folk art” via its DIY roots (skateboards built in garages) and shows how that ethos shapes the future.

Emma Veidt

About Emma Veidt

Emma Veidt is an editor at San Diego Magazine. She earned her bachelor's and master's degrees from the Missouri School of Journalism. She loves running, hiking, and rock climbing, but really, she mostly loves encounters with the street cats around North Park.

Ryan Hardison is a freelance arts and entertainment writer and recent graduate of San Diego State. When he's not staring at his laptop, he's likely eating an adobada burrito or getting sunburnt at the beach.

Arts & Culture SEPTEMBER 4, 2026

What’s Next for Arts and Culture in San Diego?

Artists and advocates are building a more sustainable creative future through public funding, political organization, and cross-border collaboration

What’s Next for Arts and Culture in San Diego?
Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.

The Future

We’ve been here before.

In 2012, city funding for the arts and culture in San Diego had eroded. As a corrective, the city council unanimously approved “Penny for the Arts”—a promise to dedicate roughly one penny of every dollar spent on hotel rooms (the Transient Occupancy Tax, or TOT).

The logic was fair and sound: Cultural institutions and events help attract visitors. Those visitors pay hotel taxes. So, the people agreed, some of that hotel-tax revenue should go back into maintaining the cultural ecosystem that helps bring those visitors and that money.

Projected as a five-year plan, the measure was supposed to increase funding to $17.9 million by 2017.

It never did. The penny was never guaranteed, so each year the city used part of it for other priorities. By 2023, the money going to arts and culture was up to about a half a penny. Even as TOT revenue has gone up significantly.

In 2019, TOT revenue was $245 million.

In 2025: $325 million.

One fix would be to guarantee the penny. Not simple, given San Diego’s financial woes. But the alternative—eroding the culture that makes San Diego San Diego, give it its identity—also doesn’t feel wise. Plus, even a locked percentage still rises and falls with tourism, which is why culture advocates want a guaranteed floor on top of it.

Another solution would be to give the arts commission actual authority.

“It’s an advisory body,” says arts commissioner Kamaal Martin. “You’d be hard-pressed to find anybody who takes our advice.”

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

He described the commissioners debating real, consequential questions this year, like whether and how to divide the cuts between funding pools. But those conversations “don’t connect to whoever’s actually deciding,” Martin says. “We haven’t been entrusted with decision-making about relevant things nearly enough.”

Christine Martinez is building political infrastructure through her organization Arts+Culture:San Diego—which is starting a 501(c)(4) lobbying structure not unlike police and fire unions. Martinez is also keeping her community actively engaged. “We won’t be caught off guard next year like we were this year,” she tells me.

Then there’s the evergreen issue of affordability and accessibility. Kiplinger’s most recent report ranks San Diego as the 11th most expensive city in the US, based on cost of living. The average home value is $980,700 (the US median is $540,000), but San Diego’s median household income is only one-third greater than the national level. Rent is also 66 percent higher than the national average ($2,716 vs. $1,636).

This is why San Diego has long suffered from the creative brain drain—creatives leaving for more affordable cities. “Artists are free to live wherever they want, and they will go where the rent is affordable,” says Jennifer de Poyen of Space 4 Art. “When they leave, they take their gifts with them, and their contributions, and their economic impact.”

One saving grace is the presence of Tijuana, where the cost of living is about 60 percent lower than San Diego, per Numbeo. Tijuana has long functioned as an affordable neighborhood for many in San Diego’s creative culture. It’s part of the reason why the binational identity is such a constant in our galleries, music, theater, murals, and culture. While that cross-border blood flow is one of San Diego’s most compelling attributes, few artists living that life would call it convenient or easy. A city is at a disadvantage when its culture creators have to cross a border to go home at night, and cross again the next morning to work.

In May, San Diego County Board of Supervisors approved a $2.75 million arts initiative of its own. It includes an Artist Space Grant Program aimed directly at the affordability crisis, as well as an artist-in-residence program, a dedicated Binational Creative Economy Investment, and a one-time investment in the Black Arts and Culture District in Encanto.

Bob Lehman of San Diego Art Matters has been doing county-level, binational organizing for years; in 2023, he helped get the county’s arts commission reestablished after 30 years of defunctness. That’s important because it gives arts and culture an official seat in county government, advising the County Board of Supervisors on arts and culture policy. He also brought in consultant Laura Zucker, who ran LA County’s arts program for three decades, to build a real regional plan.

“I really believe we’ll have something set up here that other communities come and look at,” he told me. “A national template other cities come to learn from.”

When asked who decides which artists will get the new grant money, county arts commissioner and executive director of the Chicano Park Museum and Cultural Center Monica Delgadillo Hernandez doesn’t hedge.

“That’s part of the infrastructure we’re going to be building,” she says. “What should a panel of reviewers look like? Should it be the commissioners? Should it be other folks? A supervisor?” She was just as candid that the commission itself doesn’t reflect San Diego’s population—Chicano communities are roughly a third of the city, she tells me, “and that’s not represented at the table yet.”

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

What Other Cities Prove Is Possible

The great news is that none of these solutions have to be invented from scratch. Numerous cities serve as examples of what’s possible—if we have the will.

Jonathon Glus—Prebys Foundation Senior Fellow for Art & Design, the Executive Director of the Art + Design District, and board president for California for the Arts—worked in Houston before coming to San Diego. The Texas city dedicates 74.5 percent of its hotel tax to arts grants by formula, and that support is guaranteed. Washington, DC locked in dedicated arts funding in 2019. Salt Lake City, my hometown, has run a voter-approved arts tax for almost 30 years, most recently reauthorized through 2034. And just this summer, New York City pushed cultural funding to a record $323.8 million, even incorporating an emergency fund.

Denver’s model is interesting because instead of a city-dependent funding model, theirs is a 0.1 percent regional sales tax. In place since 1988 and renewed by voters three times, their Scientific & Cultural Facilities District has distributed between $54 million and $85 million to arts, culture, and scientific orgs—each of the last 12 years.

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.

None of these cities got there by accident. They decided, on purpose, that arts and culture were worth protecting from politics—and, in some cases, worth building an entire identity around.

“That’s how Miami has flipped the switch,” says Glus. “People go to Miami for culture as much as they do the beach.”

San Diego has spent decades selling itself backward: Beach and weather first, culture as an afterthought you might stumble into. Glus would love to see the strategy flipped: Visitors should come for the art, “and then, by the way, you’re on the beach.”

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

So What Happens From Here?

“I do think it was a wake-up call for the community,” de Poyen says of the budget fight. “People understand that our funding is vulnerable. It was a lesson in how much power people have when they coalesce. But wow, is it painful.”

Glus says he’s genuinely optimistic. “The players have all changed seats, but the work is moving forward.”

“I believe optimism is a moral duty,” says Martin, who’s both power-fist and polite.

In eight months, there will be another budget fight. Everyone I talked to expects it will be worse. But something happened this spring that can’t be undone.

“I hope this rupture has brought us together in a moment of self-realization,” says Leticia Gomez Franco of the Balboa Art Conservation Center. “I hope we stop being so transactional; we begin to see ourselves and each other as partners in this work.”

That’s the whole ask, really. And it’s on all of us.

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.

A

About Aaryn Belfer

Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.

Art Arts & Culture
Arts & Culture SEPTEMBER 4, 2026

How San Diego Became a City of Art and Culture

The history, communities, and creative movements behind a cultural scene that extends far beyond the city’s postcard image

How San Diego Became a City of Art and Culture
Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act II. See Act I and Act III here.

Without concrete, wildflowers are just weeds. Any honest history of San Diego art and culture is tension and its reckonings. It begins before the name existed, with the Kumeyaay. It must pass through the Panama-California Exposition, one hell of a county fair that conjured Balboa Park as our grand cultural stage. It pays tribute to the lights of La Jolla, where the donor pool helped realize unrealizable things. It should mention names like Marston, Scripps, Ochoa, DeWitt, Lopez, Klauber, Baldessari, Torres… so many.

In short spaces like this, long histories like that become roll calls. So this is more of a walk through pressure points, notes on recurring forces and regional oddities.

Border life is key to understanding the here of here. Art without dialogue is just decoration. At its best, that dialogue should be a tad muddy, emotionally gassed. In other words, it should be in need of art—to widen perspective, parse meaning, see the unseen.

San Diego’s central dialogue—the magic and the stressor—is being flatmates with Mexico’s second-largest city by population. That makes San Diego a swing-gate of shared and vastly different perspectives, both its own place and something larger. And in no other major city in the US do the fresh flow of ideas from two countries—different governments, laws, mores, expressions, arts, cultures, traditions, economies, loves, and resentments—mingle at such a constant daily rate (due respect to El Paso).

That binational steam created Chicano Park, one of the most uniquely San Diegan contributions to national and international culture. When construction of the I-5 and Coronado Bridge divided Logan Heights, neighbors protested by transmuting prejudicial concrete into redwoods of Chicano art. Turning a civic wound into a beautiful and enduring landmark that expressed and preserved a core identity—like East Side Gallery in Berlin or Constitution Hill in Johannesburg—is damn near the core of what art is supposed to do.

Like any city, the underground-overground friction is crucial in San Diego. Our culture is headlined by institutions that lift creative work onto national and international stages: MCASD, The Nat, SDMA, Centro Cultural de la Raza, the Symphony, WorldBeat Center, The Old Globe, La Jolla Playhouse, Mingei, Museum of Us, Stuart Collection, Timken, ICA, Comic-Con, etc. The next mutations grow in the seams: street murals, music dives, tattoo shops, wheatpasted walls, graffiti, lowriders, surf and skate art (though in San Diego, this is mainstream), pop-up shows, backyard shows, beach raves, any place with room for people and a loose relationship with regulations.

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

Both art and culture get their power from power. They’re fundamentally a conversation with and retort against dominant structures. San Diego’s most pervasive structure is arguably the most rigid form: the military. Its presence is heavy in the southern tip (Border Patrol), the middle (Navy and MCAS Miramar), and northern edge (Camp Pendleton). The military is San Diego’s largest employer, by a long shot.

Within this plus-sized environment of order and hierarchy, it’s understandable that Shepard Fairey’s “OBEY” posters in the late ’90s struck such a potent chord. The most compelling punk rock is often outside a strong governor’s window. (The “OBEY” series featured an ominous, propaganda-style André the Giant wheatpasted on random ugly surfaces across San Diego—launching Fairey’s style that he eventually used for Obama’s “HOPE” poster.)

Armed forces are often viewed as the absence of creative culture—understandably so, since rogue individual expression feels like a pretty sure way to sink a war effort.

But in San Diego, the Navy’s unsuspecting role as art creator—directly or indirectly—is hard to ignore. Tattoos are a dawn-of-time practice of many early cultures, including the Kumeyaay. But Polynesia was a core realm. Sailors were exposed to it on deployment in the Pacific Rim, inking their arms with the names of loved ones and unit insignia. Back in San Diego, they’d flaunt those tats in the beaches and bars of Mission Beach or PB (Marines did the same in Oceanside.) Enlistees were the muscular flesh galleries that helped turn skin art into one of the city’s most widespread modern art forms.

During WWII, the military also trained huge legions of San Diego laborers how to build war machines. Those mechanics, engineers, machinists, welders, painters, and metal fabricators used those skills for creative good in their neighborhoods—especially in custom car culture, which took off in the post-war ’50s and ’60s. Mexican-American vets helped develop the lowrider scene, a deeply rooted part of San Diego creative expression. Galleries on slow-moving wheels.

Tourism is the other mainstream force ripe for creating against. It is both critical to San Diego’s economy, and one of the greatest barriers to deeper, more nuanced expressions of what and who San Diego is. The industry of selling our city to passers-through creates a gigantic tarp of cultural tropes. It reinforces the most obvious charms—cute zoo animal takes in an epic sunset with a giant margarita—and doesn’t yield much airspace to the thrilling micro-cultures that live and breathe where locals live and breathe. Nothing against watercolors of dolphins, but much against the hegemony of watercolors of dolphins.

Maybe because of these dominant forces, San Diegans especially tend to force underground and institutional art into a needless cage match. It’s human instinct to champion the underdog as more worthy, but that has always felt like a form of articide.

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

It’s like saying the only good food is made by gritty upstarts who crafted their own whisks from discarded shopping carts. Most of those plucky whisk-makers would love to eventually be paid properly, would love a stage, a grant, a building, a donor, a lighting rig, health insurance, maybe even one chair that doesn’t threaten the spine.

That’s what the major institutions do. Both stages—the duct-taped and the donored—serve vital roles and deserve commensurate support if we care about the entire lifespan of creative expression and not just its first exciting steps. Championing the starving artist exclusively just secures an enduring poverty for the creative class at large.

I’ve often theorized it’s harder to create great art and culture in cities like San Diego, where the climate is supernaturally pleasant. In colder/hotter/rainier/less beautiful cities, people are forced indoors to fabricate their own beauty (the grunge music of Seattle, the obscene creative output of Reykjavík). San Diego’s eternally mild sunshine tends to make the human body our art medium of choice. But scratch the surface of that surf poster (and I’ve only scratched a miniscule percent here), and this city’s far from the cultural shallows it gets accused of being.

Addendum: A Personal Agenda. In scouting the route of art and culture across San Diego county through history, two areas come up again and again: La Jolla and Barrio Logan. So I propose a collaboration between two icons of artful concrete—Chicano Park and Salk Institute (one of the world’s great examples of brutalism architecture). Let Barrio Logan’s muralists go nuts on that coastal science fortress, unite the realms for a moment in time.

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act II. See Act I and Act III here.

Troy Johnson

About Troy Johnson

Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.

Studio S SEPTEMBER 9, 2026

Meet ArtsConnect, UC San Diego’s Invitation to SoCal Arts Lovers

ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.

Meet ArtsConnect, UC San Diego’s Invitation to SoCal Arts Lovers
Courtesy of UC San Diego

Ask most people what UC San Diego is known for, and the arts may not be the first answer. Yet this fall, San Diegans can watch Ghostbusters with a live orchestra, try their hand at glassmaking and wander among more than 20 works of public art woven throughout the university’s La Jolla campus.

ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.

Courtesy of UC San Diego | Photo Cred: Erik Jensen

“The arts are at the heart of UC San Diego’s student-centered mission and vision,” says Alysson Satterlund, Vice Chancellor for Student Affairs and Campus Life. “Whether creating, participating in, or experiencing performances, the arts are essential to a healthy and truly fun Triton student experience.”

That invitation often begins where the arts intersect with other fields.

“Some of the most innovative work and discovery happen where disciplines don’t usually share a stage,” says Cristina Della Coletta, Dean of the UC San Diego School of Arts and Humanities. “So through our unique intersection of the arts with science, technology, and medicine, we are improving lives, physically and emotionally.  

Take The Inaudible Ocean, a collaboration between Department of Music Professor Lei Liang and Scripps Institution of Oceanography Assistant Project Scientist Josh Jones. Over eight years, the pair recorded earthquakes, ship noise, whale songs and other sounds in remote underwater locations. They transformed those recordings into a live music experience that allowed audiences to hear the ocean in an entirely new way. The work premiered on campus in May and continues to evolve.

The arts also connect the campus to the global art world and diverse perspectives. Chief Campus Curator Jessica Berlanga Taylor recently curated the Mexico Pavilion at the 61st Venice Biennale, featuring RojoNegro, the collective formed by Noé Martínez and María Sosa. The collective will unveil a compelling new permanent installation for UC San Diego’s celebrated Stuart Collection later this fall. 

ArtPower offers another easy entry point, bringing touring performers to venues including the outdoor Epstein Family Amphitheater and the intimate Loft. The nearly three dozen performances featured through its 2026-2027 season span music, dance, film, theater and conversation. 

Among the fall highlights is Ghostbusters in Concert on Sept. 25, pairing the beloved 1984 film with a live performance of Elmer Bernstein’s score. Tickets start at $35, and the amphitheater is located next to the UC San Diego Blue Line trolley station.

“Every member of our community should have access to world-class art, so we work hard to remove the barriers that stand in the way,” says Colleen Kollar Smith, executive artistic director of the Campus Performances and Events Office. “That means affordable ticket prices, and performances, voices and experiences where people see themselves reflected on stage and know they belong.”

The arts at UC San Diego are not only something to watch. The Craft Center offers public classes and workshops in ceramics, jewelry, woodworking, culinary arts and even surfboard shaping. At the new Glass Center, beginners and experienced makers can explore glassmaking through classes, demonstrations and studio experiences.

Whether you want to attend a performance, make something yourself or spend an afternoon exploring public art, there is an easy way in. And the invitation extends well beyond students and alumni.

Kollar Smith says it best: “Visit, participate, spectate or create. You’re invited, and we hope you’ll connect with us soon.”

Explore upcoming experiences at ucsd.edu/artsconnect.

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Arts & Culture SEPTEMBER 4, 2026

San Diego Restored Arts Funding—But the Crisis Isn’t Over

The city’s cultural sector regained millions after a proposed 85 percent cut, yet nonprofits, youth programs and major institutions still face painful losses

San Diego Restored Arts Funding—But the Crisis Isn’t Over
Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

This is part of a three-part series. This is Act I. See Act II and Act III here.

Every spring, Christine Martinez reaches out to the arts community to explain what’s on the line, hoping they’ll engage with the city’s budget process. Cultural funding, she constantly reminds, is almost always strapped to the guillotine. Especially in a city strapped for cash.

“It’s not an easy ask,” says Martinez, manager of Arts+Culture:San Diego. “Showing up is a real cost for small, volunteer-run groups that can’t spare half a day at City Council without possibly having to close their doors.”

Then, last April—with one day’s notice to arts leaders—Mayor Todd Gloria proposed a budget that didn’t trim arts funding; it eviscerated it, from $13.8 million to $2 million. An 85 percent slash. Other city departments faced cuts of about 7 percent.

The scheduled date of the cuts was just three months away (beginning of the fiscal year). Organizational leaders have to plan months if not years ahead to run their organizations. They had made hires, dedicated spending, and programmed their seasons based on a reasonable expectation that support for the arts would be somewhat in line with previous years. (The City has allotted at least $7 million a year to arts every year for the last 20 years, and the last four years have ranged between $13.8 and $18.2 million.)

The day felt even more existential given the national and international climate around the arts: namely, the federal government’s repeated proposal to eliminate the country’s two biggest cultural foundations (NEA and NEH), and the global trend of AI replacing more costly human creatives.

“It shocked everybody,” says Kamaal Martin, arts commissioner and co-founder of Art Power Equity. “If the message had been, ‘Times are tough, everybody tighten their belts a little,’ it would have landed differently. But there was no vision offered for the future, no parity in the cut. It was just, essentially, ‘Fuck you.’”

Among things I’m good at—sleeping late, low bidding for expensive shoes on Poshmark, parallel parking on either side of the street—budget analysis isn’t among them. In trying to understand how bad the finances were for San Diego to propose this drastic cut, I found myself drowning in numbers, pie charts, and politi-speak.

In his April 27 newsletter, Gloria explained that balancing the budget means “asking hard questions about every single dollar this city spends: Is this a core responsibility of city government, or is it something we do when we can afford to?”

Fair enough—if he were to ask those hard questions about every single dollar this city spends. It also makes his conclusion clear: The City of San Diego does not view supporting arts and culture as a core responsibility.

Which begs more than a few questions: Should the City be responsible? If not, then who? How crucial are arts and culture to a city? And since this is a budget discussion, how much revenue does the arts and culture industry generate for San Diego? What’s the ROI?

Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

The Impact of Arts & Culture

$1.2 billion.

That’s how much economic activity San Diego’s arts and culture nonprofits generated in 2022, according to the City’s latest Arts & Economic Prosperity 6 report. The industry created nearly 17,000 jobs and generated $878 million of personal income for local residents. About 15 percent of the people showing up to arts events in San Diego are tourists, so money was raised through TOT (Transit Occupancy Tax). The activity generated $275.7 million in tax revenue to the city.

In other words, the ROI seems to be ROI-ing.

Still, there have been signs that cuts were coming. In 2025, the City demoted the Department of Cultural Affairs to a division, folding it into the Economic Development Department (EDD). That meant Cultural Affairs no longer had independence, nor its own leader sitting at the same organizational level as departments like parks and recreation, library, police, and fire. It lost institutional leverage and would now have to compete with other EDD priorities—real estate, airport operations, business development, etc.—for budget allocation.

To be clear, few arts administrators and leaders I spoke with are interested in the either/or false choice of funding law enforcement or after-school programs; the fire departments or libraries. They’re sincere in looking for solutions that don’t leave any single group with a greater burden of righting a long-out-of-balance budget.

Jennifer de Poyen, executive director of Space 4 Art, says Gloria had long been a supporter of the arts, which made his attempted Red Wedding especially upsetting.

A

About Aaryn Belfer

Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.

Art Arts & Culture
Arts & Culture SEPTEMBER 2, 2026

31 People Shaping San Diego’s Creative Scene

Meet the artists, makers, and advocates whose work shapes how the city looks, sounds, gathers, and connects

31 People Shaping San Diego’s Creative Scene
Photo Credit: Katie Gardner & Matt Furman

San Diego is full of people who deserve a few thousand words on what they make, who they bring together, and how their work changes the city around them. The artists, makers, advocates, and behind-the-scenes talent below are a small part of that larger ecosystem.

To help us narrow our list, we looked for names that kept coming up, work that reflects the diversity of our region, and people building something bigger than themselves.

Jackie is a long-time freelance journalist covering cannabis, food/restaurants, travel, labor, wine, spirits, arts & culture, design, and other topics. Her work has been selected twice for Best American Travel Writing, and she has won a variety of national and local awards for her writing and reporting.

Isabella Dallas is a freelance writer for San Diego Magazine and the Arts and Culture Editor at The Daily Aztec in her final year at San Diego State University. She previously worked as an editorial intern for SDM, but when she’s not writing, you can find her trying the best coffee spots in SD, devouring the latest rom-coms, and indulging in anything and everything pop culture.

Matt Eisenberg is an award-winning writer and photographer based in San Diego. A former ESPN editor, his work has also been published by CNN, Bleacher Report and the New York Daily News.

A

About Aaryn Belfer

Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.

Leorah Gavidor won her first essay contest at age 5. She writes features, news, and non-fiction in San Diego.

Lili Kim

About Lili Kim

Lili Kim is a content coordinator and writer for San Diego Magazine, with experience highlighting local businesses and communities. When not writing or shooting film, she is likely brewing her seventh cup of tea of the day or strolling along Sunset Cliffs.

Emma Veidt

About Emma Veidt

Emma Veidt is an editor at San Diego Magazine. She earned her bachelor's and master's degrees from the Missouri School of Journalism. She loves running, hiking, and rock climbing, but really, she mostly loves encounters with the street cats around North Park.

Gail Czyszczon is owner/copywriter at Z3 Writing and best-selling author of a children’s book series. As a strategic communications professional and editorialist, she's passionate about discovering untold stories and themes that ignite fresh conversation and true change in communities.

Partner Content AUGUST 21, 2026

This Scripps Clinic Physician is Serving Up Care

Laika Nur, MD, takes her love of volleyball from the court to the clinic as team physician for the San Diego Mojo

This Scripps Clinic Physician is Serving Up Care
Courtesy of Scripps Health

Growing up, Laika Nur, MD, Scripps Clinic sports medicine specialist, loved watching beach volleyball when the Association of Volleyball Professionals tour came to her hometown of Chicago. A talented volleyball player herself, she remembers sitting in the stands all day, and once, even got a couple autographs. Years later, Dr. Nur was attending a professional event focused on women’s sports, and the discussion turned to a new professional women’s volleyball league. The general manager and coaching staff  for San Diego’s team, the Mojo, happened to be in attendance, and Dr. Nur took the opportunity to ask them if they needed a team doctor. Flash forward to the Mojo’s inaugural 2024 season, when Dr. Nur officially became the team physician. Click here to read more about Dr. Nur and how she incorporates lessons she learned on the court into her practice. 

For more nutrition, wellness, and healthy living tips, sign up for the San Diego Health newsletter here.

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