Ready to know more about San Diego?

Subscribe
Food & Drink OCTOBER 31, 2020

First Taste: La Doña

It took a few decades, but Tijuana native Gabby Lopez is finally opening her dream in Ocean Beach

First Taste: La Doña
First Taste / La Doña

First Taste / La Doña

Gabby Lopez is standing over a searing hot molcajete on our table. It’s a giant stone cauldron, and at least a little dangerous. Inside, a chile-red stew of sorts burbles with shrimp and octopus and scallops. Lopez’s mask is darkened a bit from kitchen sweat, and her eyes are equal parts exhaustion and inexhaustible joy. It took her over 20 years to open La Doña here in Ocean Beach, the restaurant she dreamt about as a kid growing up in Tijuana. She has a small ownership percentage (it’s a partnership with Social Syndicate, who’s also behind Wonderland, Bootlegger, Grand Ole BBQ), and you can tell it is enough for her and it is everything.

“It is so much work,” she admits, “but I am so happy. I started from the bottom, with nothing. God is blessing us right now; we are doing well. If I have to go back to clean floors for people again, I will. I don’t care. But everything in this restaurant has a story of my family.”

Raised by parents who cooked (her mom was “the birria queen” and her dad a chef who worked in San Diego), Lopez was making tortillas from scratch by the time she was eight. She wanted to become a chef, “but I got pregnant when I was very young, so you do whatever you have to do,” she says. As a teenage mom, she’d clean houses all day to pay the bills and afford culinary school at night.

With the help of Mina Desiderio, who hired Lopez to cook for her family’s parties, word of mouth spread. Lopez started her own catering company and became a private chef for Mexican celebrities, including boxer Canelo Alvarez. She consulted for restaurants in the Social Syndicate, from Wonderland to The Local and OB Surf Lodge. Then Desiderio told her friend she needed her own place.

“Before, I was a free bird,” Lopez says. “But now people know La Doña is me. I don’t want to sound arrogant—it’s just a dream I’ve been pursuing a long, long time.”

The burrito is her grandmother’s recipe (ranchero steak and sauteed shrimp, smothered with guajillo red and verde sauces, topped with Cotija, garlic, and scallions). A woman stands at a plancha next to the streetside window all day, constantly making the Lopez family recipe tortillas. The birria is the same her mom, the birria queen, slow-cooked every weekend. And the star of the menu, that burbling seafood stew of sorts in the flaming-hot molcajete cauldron, is a memory of her dad.

“We used to go to San Felipe, and my dad had a little old motorhome that we’d park by the ocean very close to the sand,” she says. “He bought a molcajete from a local vendor and just put it straight onto the campfire. He threw mussels and shrimp. He made a salsa and threw it in there, added a little butter. He didn’t have a recipe. He was just cooking, and it tasted so good.”

In the sauce for her “Molcajete del Mar,” the stone vessel is coated with melted cheese (Oaxacan and Asadero, best known for its contribution to chile con queso). It’s orange from bloomed chipotle, with deep notes of garlic butter and caramelized onions and a ping of fresh lime. It’s best eaten with a spoon, and it’s a testament to the laborious yet essential things Lopez does to build her flavors.

“Most of our food is Guadalajara and Tijuana and Baja,” she says. “But I love the food of Oaxaca and Puebla. Indigenous foods where people toast their spices, saute their chiles, dry their own chiles, layer flavor over flavor. I’m trying to do all the little things that many people don’t take the time to do.”

Like this morning. She’s been up since 4 a.m. making moles and tamales for the Dia de los Muertos dinner. “We’re going to have mariachis!” she says, and you can tell that, too, is everything.


La Doña

1852 Bacon Street, Ocean Beach

Troy Johnson

About Troy Johnson

Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.

Ocean Beach Review

Subscribe to our newsletters

Select Options

By subscribing you confirm that you agree with our Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy.

Food & Drink JULY 7, 2026

Review: Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison

The Mexican restaurant continues the Barrio Logan tradition of art in unexpected places

Review: Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison
Photo Credit: Dee Sandoval

I’m sitting in a slab of concrete under a freeway, eating a ceviche black as eyeliner.

There might be seven seats in this restaurant. Or maybe it’s 12 minus five. That area under the stairs might also be a couple seats, or it might just be a very inviting storage area with a flower vase. The restaurant is so small your core instinct is to count seats and tabulate if Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison is a real place with a sane business plan or if it’s a social art project designed to question the reality of restaurants and business plans.

There’s a large, floor-to-human-height window near our table. Through it, I notice someone didn’t make their bed this morning. It’s a decision I deeply empathize with. It’s moments like this that make you acutely aware that Alchemy is also technically the courtyard of a six-room micro-hotel called Narcissus. Not the kind of massagey boutique hotel you’re thinking of with soft woods, obscene amounts of linen, and opinions on bonsai therapy. It’s a near-Brutalist cube of base industrial materials—concrete and acrylics bent and molded into a series of alcoves, with pods to sleep in. Sculptures lie behind glass like Tilda Swinton circa 2013.

The window to the unmade bed forcibly crams light voyeurism into the dining experience. The hotel and Alchemy feel like the parts of Mexico I love the most. Although Mexico has its multimillion-dollar restaurants, a vast majority of the best street-level places feel like you’re temporarily recreating in a very lovely construction project.

Alchemy’s location is what most people comment on (“I can’t believe a place like this exists on a block like this.”)—jammed at the bottom of the freeway embankment on the northeast side of Barrio Logan. But that makes it distinctly Barrio, the historic cradle of San Diego’s Hispanic and Chicano culture. The I-5 freeway was built through Barrio in 1963—a fairly traumatic gashing of the neighborhood—and residents responded by painting epic murals on the ugly concrete belly of eminent domain. Where some would’ve just accepted the industrial blight, locals saw shade for a park. There is a deep history here of turning concrete into art, and Alchemy carries that on.

Photo Credit: Dee Sandoval

The vision for the property came from owner Benjamin Longwell, whose company—The Society of Master Craftsmen—sounds like it wears a monocle. Longwell is part of the new guard of developers who focus on urban infill. Instead of adding to the city sprawl, they find unused or underutilized parcels of land in established neighborhoods, then build creative mixed-use spaces that, in perfect scenarios, add something of value for locals.

I’m not making a case for architectural sainthood, but there isn’t a huge list of developers who would look at the line of cars exiting the freeway in front of Alchemy and think, “We must build here.” So in that sense, Narcissus and Alchemy feel additive to the community, not extractive.

I stare back at Alchemy’s ceviche negro, a glossy mound of halibut that looks inspired by the La Brea Tar Pits or melted vinyl records. Chef-owner and Mexico City–native Eddy Cortes saves all the trimmings of his dishes (garlic and onion skins, vegetable shavings), then chars them into an ash to create a recado negro—a Yucatán specialty that usually involves toasted chiles, achiote paste, vinegar, and a ton of warm spices. He tosses local halibut with squid ink, tamari, charred pineapple, and citrus. The usual charm of ceviche is that it’s light, bright, full of color. Not here.

It is fantastic—acidic but with a whole world of toasted, warm flavors, like ceviche that’s seen some things.

The menu from Cortes—a home cook his whole life, only having taken it professional a few years ago with his popular pop-up, Barracruda—is really a tour of specialties from various states in Mexico.

A crema de poblano has the blended ghost of rajas at its core: an emulsion of roasted poblanos with butter-sautéed onions and garlic, plus a touch of milk that’s topped with queso fresco, chile ancho, and morita oil. Morita—a smoky Mexican condiment made from dried and smoked red jalapeños for a less intense, fruitier cousin of chipotle—is the key here. It specializes in spiking fats (guacamole, fried eggs, burritos). Sop up the crema with house-baked garlic-rosemary sourdough, blackened from the ash of a corn husk.

Smoked tuna is a Baja gift that’s become an anchor for most San Diego taco shops, and Alchemy combines mesquite-smoked yellowtail with caramelized onions, sweet peppers, and Chihuahua cheese (the OG quesadilla filling), then stuffs it in a perfectly baked masa empanada. The result is somewhere between a TJ Oyster Bar taco, a calzone, and a tamale—but with extra flavor and more black hue from cuttlefish ink.

Alchemy’s huaraches de res is Cortes’ ode to where he’s from. Huaraches are the New Haven–style pizza of Mexican food—thick, oblong masa flatbread layered with refried beans and a payload inspired by the Mexico City markets the chef grew up roaming with his dad: braised beef (braseado), avocado salsa, pickled vegetables, salsa macha, and jocoque (Mexico’s fermented dairy product, like a cross between crema and labneh).

Alchemy’s seared tuna crudo gets a tad abused by the riot of big flavors: charred hibiscus salsa, avocado salsa, pickled grapes, pomegranate salsa macha, and chipotle aioli. It’s a fate that also tempers the joy of the zarandeado, with the adobo marinade on the shrimp fighting a bit with recado negro and chipotle crema. Sticking with curmudgeonly food critic notes, flies are a part of the Alchemy experience, at least during our visit. They’re fairly hard to evict from the outside world, but more measures could be taken to discourage their participation.

Photo Credit: Dee Sandoval

The oxtail tetelas—like a Mexican pupusa—are a diary note from Cortes’ travels to Tlaquepaque, where they famously superboost their salsa with a touch of instant coffee. First, Cortes braises the oxtail with beer and Mexican spices. Then he blends that braising liquid into a salsa with beef tallow, guajillo, charred onions, tomatoes, and black garlic. Keeping with the goth food theme, the oxtail goes into masa negra infused with squid ink.

Desserts are where you realize just how deeply Alchemy is committed to the art bit. Rarely do you see a neighborhood bistro trying to pull off trompe l’œil—the French specialty of making pastries and other desserts look like fruit or other everyday objects. (The phrase means “to deceive the eye” and is the historical precedent for the Is It Cake? phenomenon.) Pastry chef Catherinne Avila does, though. A “Naranja” comes out in the form of a mandarin, but inside is orange blossom mousse, apricot jelly, and sablée (a delicate, crumbly shortcrust). A “Philosopher’s Stone” comes in the form of a brick of gold with a serpent on top; inside are mango mousse, mango-Tajín jelly, and a coconut dacquoise.

As Barrio Logan enters an apprehensive phase—its creative culture and restaurant scene growing rapidly, bringing economic promise face-to-face with the need to protect the Chicano way of life—this concrete tuckaway from a Mexico City kid feels like a good step. The Barrio has a long history of making art in unexpected places, and Alchemy carries that a little further.

Photos Credit: Dee Sandoval

Troy Johnson

About Troy Johnson

Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.

Food & Drink JUNE 30, 2026

An Emo-Themed Bar & Pizza Joint is Rolling Into OB

Drink 182 will pair pop-punk nostalgia with New England-style pizza starting this summer

An Emo-Themed Bar & Pizza Joint is Rolling Into OB
Courtesy of Drink 182

If you’ve ever squeezed yourself into a pair of black skinny jeans with a studded belt, sported a track jacket under a band t-shirt, or swept your Manic Panic-hued hair so far to the side that your part got caught in your cartilage earring, I have good news: Ocean Beach will get a shot of emo and pop-punk nostalgia when Drink 182 opens this July.

The pop-punk bar and pizza spot comes with bonafide scene points. Co-founder Jay Nightride runs the music production studio Nightride Visuals, has worked with artists like Steve Aoki, Lil Jon, and Fall Out Boy, and also plays in Death Cab for Karaoke, a live karaoke band that performs every month at Soda Bar (among other venues). His partner Tony Jaw is easier to spot—he’s the guy with the sky-high mohawk manning the karaoke booth at Redwing Bar & Grill who’s been in the local bar and hospitality business for over a decade. 

Nightride says he’s had the idea for an emo enclave for years, but it wasn’t until after Covid that he partnered with Jaw and got the funding to move forward. “What I was looking to build was a place that I would want to be, where would I want to go to remember these nostalgic songs,” he says. 

Pending permits and final inspections, Drink 182 is slated to open the second half of July. The vibe will be dive bar meets emo night, with memorabilia from different bands who have supported the project splashed across the walls, plus a few arcade games, TVs, and (I assume) a decent sound system. The hours are still undetermined, but Nightride says they tentatively plan to be open until 2 a.m. on weekends and Wednesdays for the OB Farmers Market. In the mornings, they’ll serve fresh pastries and coffee from the similarly music-aligned James Coffee Company (whose co-owner David Kennedy is a member of Angels & Airwaves with blink-182’s Tom DeLonge).

But it’ll be the pizza that really stands out—or at least, they hope. “We’re doing New England beach pizza… a really niche pizza that not a lot of people would know about, unless you’re from North Shore, Massachusetts,” says Nightride, a former Bostonian. “It’s a thin crust, very sweet sauce, very simple, fast, go-to-the-beach kind of thing.”

“Beach pizza” is characterized by its rectangular shape, very thin crust, sweet tomato sauce, and slices of Provolone cheese with minimal toppings. Drink 182’s version will feature homemade dough and sauce, as well as freshly sliced Boar’s Head Provolone. And yes, they are aware there are already a lot of pizza options in the area. It won’t be the same, Nightride promises. 

“Everybody’s first reaction when they hear ‘pizza’ is like, ‘Oh great, another pizza place in OB,’” he laughs. “But we’re trying to do something different, just enough to differentiate it and give people another option.” If you’re not keen on the style, try one of their “drunkables,” another nostalgic riff they hope the pop-punk and emo crowd will appreciate. And if you still need a reason to give Drink 182 a try, I have more good news—you don’t actually have to break out your old skinny jeans. (In fact, please don’t.)

Drink 182 opens July 2026 at 5049 Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach.

Courtesy of Margaritaville Hotels & Resorts

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • If the steak hype wasn’t hot enough already, The Heritage Steakhouse in Santee just announced Meredith Manée will serve as executive chef of the New York-style steakhouse when it opens in August. Her star-studded kitchen resume spans over 25 years, with stints at the Hotel del Coronado, the Four Seasons, and The Ritz-Carlton Maui, so I think it’s safe to assume we’ll be in good hands. 
  • Rather than waste away in Margaritaville, you have the chance to support the San Diego Music Foundation at the annual Jimmy Buffett-inspired Day of Service at Margaritaville Hotel San Diego Gaslamp Quarter. On September 4 starting at 5 p.m., the rooftop bar will be rocking with live music and plenty of flowing cocktails, plus a silent auction and other activations to raise money for the local music education organization. I’ll drink to that. 
  • The early bird gets the worm and you can get the early ticket to Celebrate the Craft, the annual culinary festival that takes place at The Lodge at Torrey Pines on October 18. If you snag your ticket before the end of June, you can save $50 (which is nothing to sneeze at), plus you’ll be helping support the San Diego Food Bank. 
  • Mani e Grani, the pizza spot from the same people behind Ciccia Osteria, seems to be inching ever closer to opening its doors in Barrio Logan. I know I’m not the only one anxiously awaiting sinking my teeth into some wood-fired, chewy but crispy, hot-from-the-oven, authentic Italian pizza.

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene

Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink OCTOBER 30, 2025

Sourdough & Moore Launches in OB with 100-Year-Old Starter 

This farmers market favorite is getting a permanent spot on Newport Ave.

Sourdough & Moore Launches in OB with 100-Year-Old Starter 
Courtesy of Sourdough & Moore

Anyone who’s lived in San Diego long enough can sense that Ocean Beach just runs on a different vibration. And after launching his sourdough bread business five years ago at the farmers market, David Moore couldn’t imagine going anywhere else to open Sourdough & Moore as a brick-and-mortar bakery with co-owner Emma Gibb.

“I’ve actually lived here for 25 years,” says Moore. “It’s our eclectic beach community.”

Like so many sourdough endeavors, theirs was born out of pandemic boredom. “I got real heavy into a lot of fermentation—kombucha, apple cider vinegar,” explains Moore, who had been working at the Omni San Diego Hotel for 20 years. After an injury kept him back at home longer than he expected, he figured he’d give selling his bread a real shot at the farmers market. 

OB dug it.

San Diego bakery opening in Ocean Beach called Sourdough & Moore
Courtesy of Sourdough & Moore

“I had to kind of start making decisions—whether or not I was going to be working at the hotel a little more, or doing some baking,” he says. He added the Mission Valley farmers market to his rotation, expanded his repertoire to more breads and bagels, started selling his stuff at Olive Tree Marketplace, and eventually brought on Gibb.

Gibb had long been a hobbyist baker, working in the corporate world to pay the bills until one day, she couldn’t take it anymore. “I just wanted to bake,” she says.

She headed to the Mission Valley farmers market, and started peppering the vendors with questions. “That’s where I met Dave,” she says. He helped her establish a small pastry business and connected her with a few local restaurants to supply their desserts. 

“When the opportunity came for Dave to get the actual storefront here, he asked if I wanted to be involved, and I definitely jumped at the chance,” she laughs. He’d been sharing space in a commissary kitchen in OB, growing big enough that the owners decided to sell it to him. 

San Diego bakery opening in Ocean Beach called Sourdough & Moore
Courtesy of Sourdough & Moore

OB already has a couple of awesome bakeries: Azucar, Phatties Bake Shop, Desperado Bagels. But Moore thinks they have something unique to add to that—including the 100-year-old sourdough starter that’s the big bang of almost everything they make. 

“I like to think it has some unique flavor,” he says. “It’s a key essential for the bagels, baguettes, focaccia, the bread, croissants…”

Gibb chimes in. “Anything that would require yeast is going to be sourdough. The only things that it’s not in are going to be, like cookies and brownies and like little cakes. ”

Bread loaves range from roasted rosemary garlic to jalapeño cheddar, caramelized onion and cinnamon raisin. For bagels, they’re making an asiago black pepper, roasted fennel and poppyseed, rosemary lemon, and of course everything. Once open, Moore wants to introduce pizza with sourdough crust, plus some breakfast and lunch sandwiches on (you guessed it) sourdough baguettes or focaccia. 

On the pastry side, Gibb plans to keep people guessing with a rotating seasonal menu of different croissants, cinnamon rolls, danishes. But even things like chocolate chip cookies are never quite as simple as they appear to be. “I do a 50 percent chocolate chip ratio to dough, and they’re almost half a pound each,” she says. “All of the pastries are made with organic flour, local eggs [from Hilliker’s Ranch Fresh Eggs in Lakeside], and imported European chocolate.”

The storefront will be open Wednesday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. to start. And they’re going to keep a booth at both the Mission Valley and Ocean Beach farmers markets. 

“We’re really appreciative to this local San Diego community, the people of Ocean Beach,” says Gibb. Moore agrees. “They’re screaming for us to open.”

And if OBecians do one thing especially well, it’s staying loyal to locals.

Sourdough & Moore opens at 4853 Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach on Friday, November 14. On Sunday, November 2, the bakery is collaborating with another OB favorite, An’s Electronics Repair, for a one-day pop-up pre-order pairing with four different options from Sourdough & Moore with three gelatos and three jams from An’s.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Relic Bakery & Kitchen Is (Finally) Open In East Village

Anyone who’s ever opened a restaurant will tell you it never happens as fast as you think it’s going to. (Just ask the Chick & Hawk guys.) But Samantha Bird and Derek Hadden, the partners behind Relic Bakery & Kitchen, have made it to the finish line and officially opened the doors to their brand spankin’ new cafe at 845 15th Street. It’s been five years in the making, from baking in their apartment to hosting pop-ups to a wholesale business to a brick-and-mortar bakery. “We can’t be more excited to welcome you in,” says Bird. 

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Studio S JULY 7, 2026

Xplosion Box: A Customized Keepsake Your Loved Ones Won’t Forget

A customized memory-filled explosion gift box is a creative way to show someone you care

Xplosion Box: A Customized Keepsake Your Loved Ones Won’t Forget
Hero image – Birthday Explosion Gift Box

Finding a gift that feels truly personal can be surprisingly difficult. In a sea of generic options — flowers, gift cards, candles, and the like — Xplosion Box offers something more lasting: a customized keepsake built around the photos, messages, and memories that matter most. 

Founded by Southern California entrepreneur Jay Vijay, Xplosion Box LLC creates fully customized explosion gift boxes that arrive professionally designed, printed, assembled, and ready to gift. Each box opens layer by layer to reveal personal photos, heartfelt messages, pull-out albums, origami-style photo pockets, and hidden notes, turning a simple gift into an emotional reveal. 

The brand was built for people who want to give something meaningful without spending hours printing photos, cutting paper, folding cardstock, or assembling a DIY project. Customers simply choose a box, upload their favorite photos, add personal messages, and the Xplosion Box team transforms those details into a polished keepsake that feels thoughtful, personal, and beautifully made.

Xplosion Box offers personalized gift boxes for birthdays, anniversaries, weddings, graduations, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Valentine’s Day, Christmas, proposals, bridesmaid gifts, long-distance relationships, and thoughtful “just because” moments. 

Customers can choose from flexible customization options starting at $27. The Mini Surprise Box includes 10 photos, three message cards, and one hidden secret note, while the Mega Surprise Box offers a fuller keepsake experience with 40 photos, three message cards, and one hidden secret note. 

What sets Xplosion Box apart is its high level of customization combined with convenience. Filled with personal photos, custom text, decorative details, and layered surprises, each box gives customers the freedom to create a gift that feels one-of-a-kind — without having to make it themselves. 

At its core, Xplosion Box helps people turn favorite photos, stories, and words into something tangible: a keepsake that can be opened, revisited, and remembered long after the occasion has passed. asion has passed.

Partner Content
Everything SD AUGUST 5, 2025

Review: El Indio Restaurant

The Middletown restaurant reminds us that when you invent something as iconic as the taquito, you’re allowed to rest a bit on your laurels

Review: El Indio Restaurant
Photo Credit: Kim Motos

Every year for the Best of San Diego issue, we ask readers to nominate and vote for a San Diego classic restaurant they want food critic Troy Johnson to review. Whichever they vote for, he goes. Last year, they sent him to Rocky’s Crown Pub. This year… Mexican classic, El Indio.


The Perfect Order: Taquitos with Everything | Chicken Tamale | Mordiditas

When you’re credited with inventing the entire concept of the taquito, pretty much every other dish you create is going to pout in that cigar-shaped shadow. Unless you sous vide a couple narwhals, the taquito is gonna dominate your story.

San Diego’s El Indio is widely cited as the global birthplace of the taquito. (Note from our nonexistent legal team: Like any food origin story, it’s contentious—many will tell you a small, rolled taco had been a staple in Mexico for generations; others claim an LA taco stand beat SD to it. But by and large, El Indio has been granted paternity for the word “taquito” and cited as the first in the US to both sell and widely popularize the iconic thing—which happens to fit our narrative nicely, so we’re leaning in.)

So, El Indio’s mordiditas are that almost-famous entourage dish that deserves more applause. Sliced segments of taquito, about the size of pigs in a blanket, are assembled in a heap on a plate and absolutely waterboarded with nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños. They’re essentially loaded taquito nachos, an idea whose glory, in a just world, will outlive us all and echo in Valhalla. They solve a longstanding problem with every single batch of nachos that has been made in humankind—that each and every chip is denied an equitable amount of cheese or load.

San Diego Mexican restaurant El Indio in Middletown which invented taquitos
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos

Most nachos are built as an altar to American capitalism: The top couple of chips accumulate a vast majority of the cheese and the rest of the chips just keep hearing rumors of a trickle-down until they protest. If our species ever gets cut from the roster of the universe, the fact that we put a man on the moon but could never equally dress our nachos should be examined by our successor species as a possible cause.

El Indio’s taquito rubble comes in a biblical flood of nacho cheese. It’s a snack-bar treat for people whose therapists have listened to their fantasy of placing their open, eagerly receptive mouths beneath the queso pump—albeit with far better taquitos made from scratch.

The dish isn’t gonna knock your socks off, but it’s satisfying in a calorie-gargling way, a celebration of the fact that merely entering a taco shop releases us from acknowledging the physical limits of human arteries. Would El Indio’s mordiditas be better if the cheese was scaled back and partnered with a crema, or if the cheese was lovingly dirtied with chipotle in adobo, or if they came topped with a lawn-sized pile of cilantro and onions and activated charcoal ash from the sacred cenotes of Chichén Itzá? Shut up and eat your naquitos.

San Diego's first tortilla-making machine created by El Indio restaurant owner Ralph Pesqueira Sr.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos

It feels simultaneously excessive and absolutely correct to say El Indio is a San Diego legend and global food icon. In 1940, Ralph Pesqueira Sr. was working in one of the many aerospace headquarters that surrounded Lindbergh Field (the SD International Airport’s original name), building planes and war machines. As a side dream, he started making and selling fresh corn tortillas by hand on the corner of Grape and India Streets.

Mortiditas from San Diego Mexican restaurant El Indio
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos

As with most food success stories, there was a key moment of technological innovation (consider In-N-Out’s invention of the two-way speaker or Pizza Hut introducing online ordering to the pie masses). Around 1945, Pesqueira—who we might call the Thomas Edison of Mexican food—invented San Diego’s first tortilla-making machine. By hand, he could whip up 30 dozen a day; with the machine, he cranked out 30 dozen an hour. A full-fledged tortilla factory was born, the effect of which was massive for putting training wheels on the local Mexican food culture that would boom decades later.

When aero coworkers asked him if he could make a handheld, good-travelin’ food for lunch pails, he thought of flautas (a Mexican staple with global roots—a flour tortilla usually wrapped around meat and rolled into the shape of a flute, then fried).

He did a smaller version with fresh masa corn tortillas. The taquito entered the world. He sold each for 18 cents.

Historic photo of El Indio Mexican Restaurant in San Diego's Middletown opened in 1940
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
A slice of El Indio’s storied past.
Troy Johnson

About Troy Johnson

Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.

Food & Drink APRIL 8, 2025

5 Must-Try Dishes from STK Steakhouse’s Spring Menu

We break down the best bites from the restaurant's new Bounty of the Seven Seas menu on offer this month

5 Must-Try Dishes from STK Steakhouse’s Spring Menu
Courtesy of STK Steakhouse

The Gaslamp is the kind of place where anything goes. A country bar with a mechanical bull (Double Deuce) and a hookah lounge serving Russian food (Pushkin) share a block with a hip-hop nightclub (F6ix) and an ’80s arcade bar with boozy Capri Suns (Coin-Op). 

Tourists stroll by in flip flops and shorts during the winter while locals walk over in SoCal’s version of business attire for a quick drink after work. Late night, college students don sneakers and clubwear to stalk their favorite DJs. In downtown, restaurants and shops tend to disappear as quickly as they arrive. But STK has lasted 14 years as the show pony restaurant in the Andaz hotel.

Interior of San Diego steakhouse STK in the Gaslamp Quarter
Courtesy of STK Steakhouse

Back in 2018, you’d find me on the Rooftop by STK (long heels, short dress) to pregame while overlooking the city we were about to conquer. The original STK launched in New York City in 2006 with celebrity chef Stephen Hopcraft—a modern steakhouse idea that caught fire and expanded to Las Vegas, Miami, Atlanta, and Nashville. 

It earned its reputation as a sexy haven for those who liked eating quality ribeyes in a place that felt right for girl’s night rather than 60th anniversaries: white booths and chairs, dim lights, pink LEDs that cast a neon blush over white flowers in oversized vases that damn near touch the ceiling. 

San Diego steakhouse Cowboy Star

The night I’m here, a bachelorette party breaks out in the private room upstairs. Cheers ring out any time a bridesmaid walks up the stairs. In other words, it’s not the hushed and highbrow steakhouse model, by design. 

I’m here to try a mix of STK hits from executive chef Bobby Borja Jr. (hailing from the former Prep Kitchen and Break Point), plus new material from its Bounty of the Seven Seas menu. Because to last as long as STK has, you can’t just play old songs. Future preserves the past.

Here are the dishes that won over our table, should you feel the mood for a sexier surf and turf night downtown:

San Diego steakhouse STK offering a special seafood menu called Bounty of the Seven Seas featuring grilled octopus
Courtesy of STK Steakhouse

Dishes to Try from STK’s New Seafood Menu

Grilled Octopus

Cooked perfectly, slightly sweet (the charm of octopus) and tender, meaty but not chewy. Comes with fingerling potatoes, olives, paprika aioli, and sala verde.

Brioche Bread with Blue Cheese Butter

Between each course, I found myself reaching for the warm pull-apart bread offered with bleu cheese butter and chive off its everyday menu. That melty warm slightly blue cheese-funked butter, smothered on a brioche roll—heaven call me home, I’m ready.

Spicy Yellowtail Crispy Rice Cakes 

Made with yellowtail, pickled fresno chiles and unagi sauce, this dish comes with five rice cakes. It was so good we ended up ordering another round almost as quickly as it was dropped off at the table.

Mushroom and Truffle Tagliatelle

If you’re a pasta lover, get this dish, which is also available on STK’s regular menu. Pecorino cheese, braised mushrooms, tagliatelle pasta and shaved black truffle, it’s just the right amount of rich mixed with a little bit of earthiness from the mushrooms. 

10 oz. Filet

Of course, since you’re at a steakhouse, don’t skip the goods. All cuts come paired with a sauce of your choosing: STK, STK Bold, au poivre, béarnaise, horseradish, chimichurri, and red wine. The obvious answer is to order all of them and have your own sauce tasting menu. 

Nicolle Monico is an award-winning writer and the director of creative projects, digital editor for San Diego Magazine with more than 16 years of experience in media including Outside Run, JustLuxe and The San Francisco Chronicle.

Partner Content JULY 10, 2026

Health & Wellness Summer 2026

It’s a Self-Care Summer. Because your best self is our favorite self.

Health & Wellness Summer 2026

If you’re anything like us, it can be easy to get so caught up in taking care of everyone else, that your own needs get lost in the ether. But while this may be a cliché, that doesn’t make it any less true: You can’t give your best self to other people unless you’re taking care of yourself.

Sometimes, that looks like stopping in for your regular acupuncture or chiropractic appointment. Other days, it means giving your body the fresh, organic fuel it needs to truly feel and function at its best. And some other times still, it involves leaving your responsibilities behind for a weekend to pamper yourself at an incredible resort and spa.

Only you can decide what your truly need. We’re just here to help you find the best ways to get it.

Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa

Island living meets desert luxury at the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa in Indian Wells. When you step onto the 11-acre property, you’ll be surrounded by sweeping view of the Santa Rosa Mountains with olive trees and fragrant citrus groves decorating the grounds. In other words, everything about this relaxed but refined resort is primed to help you let go of the stress from home and enjoy easy sun-soaked days and gorgeous starry nights.

The rooms blend calming, woven textures with Tommy Bahama’s signature tropical prints and feature private lanais, making it easy unwind the moment you walk in the door. If you book one of the four Villa Suites, you’ll be treated to exclusive Tommy Bahama furniture and unique personal touches to further that feeling of instant ease.

At the award-winning Spa Rosa, the expert team will help reset and recharge your body and mind using methods and rituals inspired by the desert. The 12,000-square-foot retreat includes outdoor soaking pools, eucalyptus steam rooms, and outdoor cabanas, as well as massages, facials, and body masks—all aimed at creating a day dedicated to you. We’re particularly partial to the Day Long Escape, an indulgent all-day affair of CDBs soaks, renewing scrubs, life changing massages, and transformative facials.

Following your treatment, continue the experience with a meal on the patio at Grapefruit Basil. We love the Hamachi Crudo, a light, citrus-forward dish featuring premium yellowtail, house-made ponzu, creamy avocado, and fresh seasonal garnishes.

Whether you’re strolling the gardens, relaxing beside its saltwater pools, or indulging in a restorative treatment, you’ll be able to escape in style and relax in luxury at the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa.

Healcove Chiropractic

There’s no shortage of ways to stay active in San Diego—but if you really want to enjoy everything the city has to offer, you’ve got to make sure you’re giving your body its tune-ups. Enter: Healcove Chiropractic. The board-certified chiropractors and wellness professionals at Healcove are experts at addressing that stage where you’re not injured, exactly, but you’re not at 100%, either. Maybe you’re feeling a bit tense or stressed out. Or it could be that you’re not quite moving the way you want to. Sometimes, it’s just that the accumulation of days, weeks, or even years of daily strain is starting to take a toll. No matter what stage you find yourself at, the Healcove Chiropractic team can provide integrated, preventative care centered on long-term, science-backed approaches that ensure you can always stay active and live the life you want to live pain-free.

This starts by providing truly individualized care. Every patient can expect a thorough 60-minute consultation session that includes a posture and movement screening. This allows the team to develop a completely personalized plan. That plan might include chiropractic care, acupuncture, or massage therapy, as well as functional fitness training, vibration and sound therapy, and Dynamic Neuromuscular Stabilization, a clinical rehabilitation method that retrains the body’s stabilization systems. Whatever the team recommends, you can be sure that it’s tailored to meeting your body’s needs today and the future.

There’s a reason that San Diego Magazine named Healcove the “Best Chiropractor in San Diego”—don’t wait until you’re struggling with an injury to find out why. Book an appointment today for holistic, integrated care that helps ground and heal your body before it reaches a crisis point. 

Juice Holler

West Coast wellness culture meets the community feel of Southern Appalachia at Juice Holler. Juice Holler’s menu consists of made-to-order smoothies and smoothie bowls, as well as grab-and-go cold-pressed juices, wellness shots, salads, and more. It operates from the blissfully simple premise that fueling up with food and drink that’s guilt-free and good your body should be simple, accessible, and, above all else, delicious. And if you haven’t yet made it out to the Encinitas café, which opened just this year, let us be the first to tell you: Juice Holler delivers on each and every of these fronts.

We love the Supercharger smoothie, a mood-lifting and body-fueling option made with banana, almond butter, blue spirulina, maca, grass-fed whey protein, raw cacao nibs, medjool dates, and coconut milk. We’re also partial to the Thrive Alive smoothie bowl, where avocado, mango, sea moss, spirulina, mint, coconut milk, and agave are mixed and topped with coconut, chia seeds, strawberry, mango, and chocolate drizzle. The wellness shots include the Detoxifier, a cleansing blend of kale, cucumber, lemon and spirulina, plus a shot specially designed to fight inflammation (named, fittingly, Anti-Inflammation). Probiotic overnight oats, lemon turmeric bars, and strawberry shortcake chia pudding are other standouts on the grab-and-go menu.

Much of the vibe feels beachy North County chic—think green tile with orange and pink accents, grounded with greenery and natural wood—but Juice Holler founder Kelly Sergott, a longtime Encinitas local, has also enfused the space with her Kentucky roots. In Appalachia, a holler is small valley between hills and mountains, where nature reigns, community is king, and nourishment comes right from the land. At Juice Holler, Sergott has created a holler for the busy modern times, using local ingredients to create a spot for people to come together and enjoy fresh, fast, feel-good fuel for their day.

Everwell Acupuncture

We’ve all had that experience with a medical professional where we’ve felt rushed, ignored, or misunderstood—and ultimately, like we didn’t get the answers that we needed. But at Everwell, the holistic acupuncture practice located in Solana Beach, the care team wants to transform your understanding of what healthcare can look like.

Patients at Everwell experience care rooted in intentional listening and radical empathy—and trust us, those aren’t just corporate buzzwords. This place actually puts those ideas into practice. You will always be given the time you need to tell your story— initial in-take appointments are two hours long—and you can rest assured that your story will be believed. Every single question and concern will be addressed by a dedicated practitioner who wants to find the specific solutions that work best for you, and you’ll receive care that’s aimed at healing the body, mind, and spirit.

Everwell’s highly trained, doctorate-level practitioners blend evidence-based acupuncture with the practice of classical Chinese medicine. (If you’ve never tried acupuncture before or aren’t sure if the team will be a fit, we’d highly recommended Everwell’s complimentary 20-minute consultations.) Research shows that by stimulating specific points on the body, acupuncture activates a natural healing response in the body, helping to restore balance, regulate the nervous system, and improve overall wellbeing. This allows the practice to address an incredibly wide range of conditions from chronic pain and autoimmune disorders to digestive issues, from stress and burnout to headaches migraines, fertility and postpartum struggles, hormonal imbalances, sleep concerns and more.

At Everwell, you can expect to feel heard, trusted, respected, and cared for. This is a space that doesn’t want to be just another healthcare provider you visit; it wants to provide patients with dedicated partner who will be there for their entire health journey.

Partner Content

Eat Like a Local (Who Knows a Guy).

Restaurant news, culinary storytelling, and Troy Johnson’s sharp takes delivered straight to your inbox twice a month.

Close the CTA

Contact Us

1230 Columbia Street, Suite 800,

San Diego, CA