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Here’s Johnny!

Inside Johnny Rivera's latest spot, Great Maple

By Troy Johnson | Photo by Sam Wells April 17, 2013

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES Know the Neighborhood Where to eat, where to drink, and what it's like to live there. EXPLORE THE GUIDES

Johnny Rivera was on a plane heading east when he heard: Brian’s American Eatery was done. The San Diego native behind Hash House A Go Go and Tractor Room canceled his trip. Into the iconic spot he inserted his “Euro dinette” concept, Great Maple. No more 24-hour, beer-breath breakfasts. Ethically farmed dinner’s the focus. Lamb rack so tender, it’s chewable even with econo-dentures; portobello “fries” in pesto aioli; and the mascarpone cheesecake, oh Lord. This isn’t post-Pilates food. It’s sturdy, with Rivera’s skill for making dining an event. Case in point: the Red Light. Once it’s lit, servers haul a wooden plank into the dining room with various gifts for everyone, from crab cakes to Champagne. 1451 Washington Street, Hillcrest