Johnny Rivera was on a plane heading east when he heard: Brian’s American Eatery was done. The San Diego native behind Hash House A Go Go and Tractor Room canceled his trip. Into the iconic spot he inserted his “Euro dinette” concept, Great Maple. No more 24-hour, beer-breath breakfasts. Ethically farmed dinner’s the focus. Lamb rack so tender, it’s chewable even with econo-dentures; portobello “fries” in pesto aioli; and the mascarpone cheesecake, oh Lord. This isn’t post-Pilates food. It’s sturdy, with Rivera’s skill for making dining an event. Case in point: the Red Light. Once it’s lit, servers haul a wooden plank into the dining room with various gifts for everyone, from crab cakes to Champagne. 1451 Washington Street, Hillcrest
This item was featured in the May 2013 issue
Great Maple
