Park Hyatt Aviara wins culinary creative points for its quarterly series, Masters of Food & Wine. On March 23, local brewery Port Brewing/Lost Abbey and master salumi maker Pascal Besset will present a beer and handcrafted salumi tasting. After a tour of Lost Abbey Brewery and beer tasting with Besset’s finest cured meats, a salumi-inspired lunch follows at Park Hyatt Aviara, prepared by chef Pierre Albaladejo. Next up in June is a Carlsbad Aquafarm tour with oyster and craft cocktail pairings, followed by a seafood feast at Vivace. Look for a Blackbird Vineyards Wine Dinner at the Grand Del Mar on Friday, March 29, featuring the terroir-driven, Pomerol-inspired wines from Napa Valley paired with a three-course meal by savvy chef Camron Woods from Amaya. parkaviara.hyatt.com
The doors should be open in mid-March at Solterra Winery & Kitchen in Leucadia. The spacious urban winery, replete with a tasting room, demonstration vineyard, bocce ball court, patio dining, and fire pit, is the brainchild of successful vintner Christopher Van Alyea, who makes exciting, robust reds. Live music, craft beer, and Mediterranean-influenced small plates as well. 934 North Coast Highway 101
Classic turkey dinner pairs best with wines low in tannins (which clash with brined foods), high in acidity (which can balance oily or fatty foods), and with moderate to high levels of complexity. Here are our recommendations:
German Rieslings have great versatility, which makes pairing easy. Go for the highest level of quality with the dry 2008 Barth Hattenheim Hassel Erstes Gewächs, a first growth from the Rheingau. It’s a complex,
mineral-driven wine with citrus and stone fruit flavors. $46
Pink wines are not to be feared. Most rosés, in fact, are quite dry. The 2011 Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé from France’s Rhône Valley (pictured) is a bigger-bodied wine with bone-dry crisp acidity and flavors of strawberries and spice. $18
A Tribute To Grace Grenache from Santa Barbara Highlands 2011, crafted by award-winning female winemaker Angela Osborne, has delicate strawberry and cherry notes followed by a full, lush mouth feel and a finish with hints of spice and soft tannins. $50
Fill your social calendar with these must-attend events north of the 56
Encinitas Oktoberfest
ENCINITAS | Oktoberfest It Up
Grab Your Lederhosen Warning: There will be a Chicken Dance. But it’s tradition, and the Encinitas Chamber of Commerce has decreed it shall be so (and Encinitans love it). The 18th annual Encinitas Oktoberfest, on September 22, is six blocks and 200 vendors of German food, the Gemütlichkeit Alpine Dancers, a kiddie fun zone, ceremonial parade, and more. Is there ever a better time had with beer and brats? Nein. Mountain Vista Drive and El Camino Real, 10 a.m.–5 p.m., encinitasoktoberfest.com
TEMECULA | Make the Most of “Wine Month”
September marks the ninth annual California Wine Month. To celebrate, Temecula Valley’s 35 wineries are offering the Sip Passport—four tasting flights and a souvenir wine glass, valid the entire month ($35). They are also hosting the fourth annual CRUSH Gala at Callaway Winery’s hilltop patio on September 14, 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., with local cuisine and live music. Tickets start at $75. temeculawines.org
Escondido
ESCONDIDO | Walk Along the Wedge
More than 2,000 cheeseheads will attend the Wedge Artisanal Cheese Festival, taking over Grand Avenue in Escondido on October 12. For $35, you can stop at more than 25 tents to taste craft beer, local cuisine, boutique wines, and, of course, cheese. The event is big with Slow Foodies and attracts music fans as well: Talk Like June, a rock-country band from Escondido, will perform. Tickets go up to $45 the day before. 2 p.m.–8 p.m., wedgeescondido.com
CARLSBAD | Geek Out on Cinema
The jury’s still out on whether we need another film festival. They seem to be proliferating faster than Taste Ofs. Still, Omni Laâ¨Costa Resort and Spa is trying its hand at hosting one. La Costa Film Festival, October 24–27, is produced by “festival vets,” i.e. Hollywood people Nancy Collet and Jon Fitzgerald. And while they don’t have Judd Apatow—who, by the way, is being honored at the San Diego Film Festival the same month (October 2–6)—this one’s at a resort, and it’s got poolside parties and al fresco screenings. The lineup will include documentaries, student shorts, and award-winning feature films. Proceeds go to local Boys and Girls Clubs. lacostafilmfestival.org
ENCINITAS, DEL MAR, RSF | Get Pampered
A handful of local wellness centers are participating in National Spa Week, October 14–20. Pay $50 for a number of treatments that normally cost between $100 and $500. Participating North County spas include Facelogic Spa (Encinitas); PLACE360 Health + Spa (Del Mar); and Morgan Run Spa and Sport Retreat (Rancho Santa Fe). spaweek.com
Priority Public House, the Regal Seagull, Masters of Food and Wine, Tequila Agave Artesenal, and Pragers Brothers Artisan Bread
Priority Public House
Priority Public House
encinitas
Priority Seating
The red Calypso cottage has been revamped into the handsome green Priority Public House, a 66-seat gastropub by proprietor Brian McBride. A colorful chalkboard menu reveals what’s spilling from its taps—22 craft beers and two white wines from the barrel. Order up a fetching Salt of the Earth with smoky mescal, cynar, lime, and pineapple, and a burly center-cut pork chop with chipotle citrus barbecue sauce. 576 North Coast Highway 101
The Regal Seagull
The Regal Seagull
leucadia
The Seagull Flies North
The Regal Seagull, the coastal version of Mission Hills’ Regal Beagle, is Leucadia’s latest dudefest. After you choose your local fave from 20 rotating beer taps and one of nine artisan links served up on Sadie Rose buttermilk rolls, your order is zip lined into the kitchen. Patrons are given a 1980s character name (think Mr. T, Greg Brady, Marty McFly) for pickup, which is announced over the loudspeaker. Twenty-five cent mini-corn dog Mondays, Wingsday Wednesdays, and Trivia Night add to the party. 996 North Coast Highway 101
carlsbad
Scotch and a Smoke
Cigar aficionados can light up at the Park Hyatt Aviara Masters of Food and Wine event for an evening of steak, smoke, and scotch. After a little Glenfiddich or Macallan with hors d’oeuvres, chef Kurtis Habecker presents four courses, with Brandt all-natural rib eye served two ways as the focal point. Guests then retire to the terrace for a scotch and cigar pairing hosted by spirit manager Levi Walker of San Diego’s Young’s Market Company and cigar expert David Haddad of Fumar Cigars. September 20–22. Argyle Steakhouse, 7447 Batiquitos Drive
Del Mar
Tequila at the Plaza
The Prager Brothers
The Prager Brothers
Old Town’s El Agave is transporting its old-world traditions and to a new zip code this fall with an outpost in Del Mar. Tequila Agave Artesenal will fill the space once occupied by Flavor in Del Mar Plaza. The upscale (read: expensive) Mexican eatery will also host a 2,000-bottle tequila museum with a tasting room for tequila flights and appraising in-house. 1555 Camino Del Mar
carlsbad
On Brothers and Bread
The Prager Bros., baker Louie and musician Clinton, who used to fire up their bread in the back of Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria, have opened their own retail space—Pragers Brothers Artisan Bread in C-bad. The duo is also planning a CSA-style bread program. Find them at weekly Encinitas, Vista, Carlsbad, and Rancho Santa Fe famers markets. Carlsbad Gateway Center, 5671 Palmer Way
In this city, chef Brian Malarkey and restaurateur Chris Puffer are kind of like peanut butter & jelly, tacos and Tuesday, Padres and Petco—they just go together. This month, the duo celebrates 10 years of partnering on some of San Diego’s top restaurants including their first venture, Herb & Wood.
To celebrate this milestone, we stepped back and revisited their journey becoming some of this city’s most successful restaurateurs.
But first, let’s go back to the beginning. The duo met at Oceanaire in 2007 where they both worked. Malarkey was still riding the high from his stint on Top Chef Season 3 where he won runner-up. He was a great chef, Puffer recalls, if not a tad arrogant. Whatever he was doing, though, it worked. Sales doubled under his watch.
In 2009, Malarkey was approached by some patrons to start what would become Searsucker. He knew he wanted Puffer to be his partner. They had great chemistry and loved hospitality and food. “We both came to this with a bit of a chip on our shoulder,” says Malarkey. “We wanted to prove it to other people that we know what we’re doing.”
Courtesy of Puffer Malarkey Collective
Searsucker, Gabardine, and Herringbone (under the Fabric of Social Dining restaurant group) were born through the new partnership. But in 2012, they sold their concepts to Hakkasan and soon partnered on a new lease.
That building would eventually become Herb & Wood. “We were going to do it differently this time around,” says Malarkey as he reflects on Wood’s early days. “And we [wanted to] build it to last.”
The vision: Great food. Great music. Great service. It’d be a place where diners would let go, put their phones down, and be fully present to enjoy a meal together. When they walked into 2210 Kettner Blvd, they knew they had found their spot.
The only problem was that, at the time, that area of Little Italy was still severely underdeveloped. In a 8,500-square-foot space, they were going to have 230 seats to fill. “It may as well have been on Mars,” says Troy Johnson, San Diego Magazine publisher, content chief, and the city’s longtime food critic.
Courtesy of Puffer Malarkey Collective
And, of course, there were the naysayers. The prevailing feeling in the dining world was, “Let’s see what these f**king idiots do,” recalls Malarkey. The duo let all the noise be noise. In fact, the noise fueled them. “We weren’t going to cater to the haters,” Puffer says.
Their next hurdle would be to tackle the restaurant’s design. “There was nothing. It was literally a box,” says Puffer of the former space. Design teams were too expensive or didn’t quite get their vision—no, they didn’t want exposed beams or wooden tables made from reclaimed barns. “Then, Puffer was like, ‘f**k it, dude, I’m going to design this restaurant.’”
Having never really designed something like this before, he decided not to work in the programs that most professionals use to create their layouts. 3D mockup? Didn’t need it. CAD? That’s what a paper and pencil are for.
Courtesy of Herb & Wood
“It was all in my head,” he recalls. “I had this moment where I was like, ‘If I died right now, no one would know where any of this shit goes.’”
“Yeah, it made no sense,” Malarkey says.
And it still doesn’t if you hear him explain it. A mishmash of vignettes from the inner workings of his memory bank, evoking everything from Mississippi riverboats to Eiffel tower ironwork, Kensington home façades, an old theater he frequented, and a canoe, because why not? Yet somehow, it all worked.
“It’s a sense of nostalgia,” says Puffer. “People might say, ‘Oh, my gosh, this feels good’ and they don’t realize it reminds them of the time they were in Paris.’”
“We don’t play trends,” Malarkey says. “We play timeless.”
Courtesy of Herb & Wood
Over the course of many years and plenty of trial and error, the partnership has continued to thrive. And, the Puffer Malarkey Collective has found its sweet spot within their restaurants: The service had to be kind and unpretentious and the food had to come out quick, delicious, and consistent. “Consistency is key!” says Puffer.
They also learned to balance out one another. “He’s a go-go-go-go [person],” says Puffer, “I’m a let’s-take-a-deep-breath-and-sleep-on-it [type of person].”
So, when they opened the doors to Herb & Wood in April of 2016, with those lessons in place, everything was just right. “We knew it had to fire on all cylinders,” says Puffer. “And it did.”
Courtesy of Puffer Malarkey Collective
There was no pretense and the dress code was exceedingly simple. “Money in your pocket,” says Malarkey. “That’s all you need.”
The phones rang, the seats filled, and the haters had to give it to them, those gnocchi hit. People began embracing every aspect of the place, even the edgier ones.
“We thought people were going to complain about all the paintings with boobs,” says Puffer of the many John Lanes on the wall. “But the amount of people who take pictures in front of the boobs is amazing.”
They even had a middle finger statue that Puffer had picked up from a yard sale. If a table was rude or antagonistic toward the staff, he’d walk over to them with the finger. “Congratulations,” he’d say, handing it over. “You’ve won asshole of the night.”
Courtesy of Puffer Malarkey Collective
The point is, they were ready to laugh (and not take shit from anyone). When someone wrote a review of Herb & Wood and called it Weed & Boners, they both had a laugh. It’s one of the keys to longevity.
Along with the fun and deliciousness, they’ve also served as a culinary talent incubator for San Diego. “It’s like a centrifuge,” says Johnson about Herb & Wood. “They train up all these young chefs and start spinning all this talent into different parts of the city.”
There’s Sebastian Becerra with Pepino, Samantha Bird of Relic Bakery, Aidan Owens at Herb & Sea, and Tara Monsod of Animae and Le Coq (San Diego’s first James Beard award finalist) to name a few. “They’ve expanded the footprint of the food revolution in San Diego,” says Johnson.
Their plans for the next 10 years?
“We’re just going to keep the magic going,” says Malarkey.
Oceanside has a new secret gem, the Succulent Café. Peter Loyola serves up espressos, sandwiches, and freshly baked pastries from his coffee cart, surrounded by an enchanted garden and his stunning plant-based artwork. Succulents spill from wall art, painted planter boxes, window frames, and more. Find it next to the Apotheque Spa on Cleveland Avenue, just north of the train station.
Now Open
Tavern on the Green
Overlooking the polo fields, James Limjoco brings Sublime Tavern to Del Mar, filling the musical chairs space formerly occupied by Tommy V’s and Pasquale. The rustic eatery offers gourmet comfort food, savory seafood dishes, and 55 craft beers on tap. Stay, please?
Ryan Studebaker
Studebaker is Back
Chef Ryan Studebaker has landed back in North County, after some time with Brian Malarkey in La Mesa at Gingham and a stint downtown. Wisely, chef Matt Gordon has plucked the young talent to helm Solace & The Moonlight Lounge, while Gordon focuses on Del Mar’s Sea & Smoke.
SCENE
Please be Seated…
The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe’s $12 million renovation ushers in a superlative al fresco dining scene this summer with a seasonal menu by executive chef Todd Allison and his new sidekick, Brian Black. A major culinary score for North County, Black is a James Boyce alum from the Studio at Montage Laguna Beach, and a Michael Mina protégé.
MARKETS
From Peru, With Love
Tamale
Our favorite ceviche spot, Del Mar’s Café Secret, has launched Secret Pantry, a gourmet Peruvian market, just two blocks south of the café. Owner Daniella Basagoitia will share the flavors of her childhood, like homemade tamales and sauces, infused olive oils, Peruvian chiles, South American fruit pulps (guanabana, anyone?) Peruvian corns, homemade jams, dulce de leche, and marzipan confections.
grilled fish
Sunset Grilling
Dedicated barbecuers should check out Sheraton Carlsbad’s “Sunset Grilling with the Masters.” Running from late June to mid-August, the series kicks off with Stone Brewing Co.’s chef Alex Carballo, followed by Amanda Baumgarten from Herringbone and Mario Moser from Flying Pig Pub + Kitchen.
Karl Strauss cask beer Thursdays; Monello-Societe pizza-beerings
By Nate Martins
The food world is having its monster-truck moment. Taco Bell’s gone Doritos. Pizza Hut is turning its crust into a series of cheese jacuzzis. And Karl Strauss is doing funky beers. Yes, we realize that last one falls short of “zany.” But every Thursday night Strauss unveils some pretty innovative cask beers from 5PM until they run out (at all locations). On April 11 they’ll tap a red chile-infused version of their Red Imperial Ale, Off The Rails. April 18 will be a Boardwalk Black Rye IPA.
Italian street food joint Monello is hooking up with Societe Brewing Co. for craft beer-and-pizza pairings from April 15-18. There’ll be three pairings: Margherita with The Apprentice IPA, black truffle and mushroom pie with The Debutante (Belgian), and a “Dole” pizza (Ricotta, caramelized pear, dark chocolate ganache, toasted almonds) with The Butcher Imperial Stout.
Perfect pairings make this fundraiser one of our favorites
The San Diego Young Professionals Committee (YPC) and the University Club Charity Classic will host the 10th Annual Chocolate & Vino on Friday, September 5th at the University Club. Deemed an “Around the World Tasting,” guests get to sip and sample their way through different cuisines and wines of the world. Take in the city views from the 34th floor where the sunset alone is worth the ticket price. Proceeds from the event go to three different local organizations: Big Brothers Big Sisters, ALS Therapy Development Institute and Employee Partners Care Foundation.
