fter all the big things, the opening nights with hoopla and The Bear-level pressures…. He finally found the right spot in a little box of his own in Barrio Logan.
Born and raised in San Diego, Pablo Becker opened restaurants across the world with his cousin, famed Mexican chef Richard Sandoval. Opened a few of his own in San Diego. About six years ago, he had to close up. Lowest point of his life. So he went to Chicago, got a job not as a GM or operator but as a line cook. For five years, he just cooked.
Then he came home, and opened this joint. A cozy thing on the main corner of Logan Ave. Called it Fish Guts.
“Being a line cook was the greatest five years of my life,” says Becker. “I just put my head down and cooked and cooked and cooked. Like most restaurants in America, almost all of the cooks were Mexican. In that kitchen, I got to learn about the cultures and food of cooks from Puebla, Guerrero, Michoacan… I learned more about my own culture than I probably had my whole life.”
Fish Guts is mostly tacos and a killer fried fish sandwich, all made with 90% sustainable seafood, sourced from local fishmongers and boats. The blackened swordfish is a star, a juicy-tender filet with jalapeño slaw and spicy aioli. Buying fish from local fishermen costs a lot more; it’s what financial advisors might call “oh c’mon but why.”
“The ocean is right there, man,” he says, pointing out the window. “Why wouldn’t you use it? I wanted to do something that had meaning behind it.”
It’s not a rapid-fire taco joint; Pablo cooks to order. Sit down, watch that vibrant Barrio life roll by, bask in your patience.
As for the name, he was spitballing with a friend about what to name the restaurant. The friend got frustrated, said, “You know what, man, I’m done with this conversation, you can call it ‘Fish Guts’ for all I care.”
So he did.
