As an elder Millennial, I feel justified in declaring that 1990 slapped. The Hubble Space Telescope launched (yes, I’m a space nerd), Nelson Mandela got released from prison (yes, I’m an anti-apartheid nerd), and MC Hammer dropped everyone’s favorite crab-walking dance single, “U Can’t Touch This” (yes, I’m a parachute pants nerd).
But in San Diego, another very specific, very cool thing happened—Sala Thai opened in College Area as the first Thai-owned and operated restaurant in the city. Or at least one of the first. Kristian Svangvitaya isn’t 100 percent sure. “There were no other Thai restaurants… I think we are, but I have no valid proof of that, so I don’t want to stake my life,” he laughs.
That year, his mother Chiravan “Chira” Svangvitaya opened Sala Thai in a small shopping mall near SDSU, long before the area boasted a bonanza of different eateries and coffee shops. From then to now, “it’s night and day, a different world,” he says. As College Area swelled with students and attracted more residents and families, the family business stayed strong for 30 years. His mother, aunt, grandmother, twin brother, and cousins all chipped in from young ages, building a loyal clientele and steady business. Then, the pandemic hit.
“Prior to Covid, we used to have a waiting line for lunch and dinner, at least a half an hour waiting list almost every weekend,” says Svangvitaya. That’s not the case today. He points to other struggles over the past few years, like rowdier passersby who’ve broken windows, stolen tip jars, or graffitied walls. Plus, more restaurants in the area mean more choices and competition, and it’s been hard to get customers to dine-in versus take out. Then there are the delivery apps taking a cut of each order..
So Svangvitaya decided that for their 35th anniversary loomed, he’d fully remodel the space and give it new life.
“I’m not trying to toot my own horn, but it’s beautiful,” he laughs, pointing to a new emerald green theme and accents like a full-size tree draped in fairy lights. “We did a full remodel. I painted everything, every single wall. I wanted a really good setting for people to want to come and sit down and eat.”
But their biggest reveal might be the dish a decade-plus in the making: chicken khao soi, their curry ramen, from Svangvitaya’s mom. “I’ve asked her to make it for the last 15 years, and she just came out with it three months ago,” he says. “Since this came out, it’s our best selling dish. Other Thai restaurants don’t have it.”
I stopped by to try it, and you can taste why it’s such a hit—a rich, silky broth and a smorgasbord of accoutrements like chile oil, chopped shallots, and bean sprouts.
Surviving 35 years as a restaurant, especially through a global pandemic, is like making it to 100 years old as a human. Those who reach that kind of rarefied milestone don’t usually have super secret tricks up their sleeves; they just keep putting one foot in front of the other (and maybe add a pretty tree and mom’s long-overdue curry ramen).
Svangvitaya says he wants to keep the restaurant going as long as he can, eventually taking over for his mother when she’s ready to retire. But until that happens, he’s just ready to celebrate what she, and the rest of the family, has accomplished together.
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
Eat, Drink, and Roar at San Diego Zoo Food, Wine & Brew
Today I learned that the world famous San Diego Zoo has an executive chef. (Did someone say ‘dream job’?) Zoo Food, Wine & Brew kicks off on Sunday, May 3, and joining the zoo’s concept executive chef Zaz Suffy are reps from local faves like Bluewater Grill, Del’s Hideout, Flavors of East Africa, Lia’s Lumpia, Glass Box, Puesto, Mendocino Farms, and more. Plus, guests will be able to get drinks from other hot spots like Bernardo Winery, Bivouac Ciderworks, Boochcraft, California Wild Ales, J. Lohr, Kairoa Brewing, Julian Hard Cidery… you get the picture. It’s gonna be good. Tickets to the 21+ event are still available (including VIP, which gets you early access and VIP bathrooms—I’m sold).
Beth’s Bites
- Coral Del Mar is the new north county open, replacing the former Zel’s location just a short walk from the oceanfront in downtown Del Mar. The fusion-forward menu mixes flavors from places like Baja California, Hawaii, and southeast Asia, with local hospitality experts Gio Morelli and Amanda Devine (a Del Mar native) holding the reins.
- Bit biased, but I’m a big proponent of local media (…obvi), so I’m stoked about the Voice of San Diego beer collaboration with 3 Punk Ales Brewing Company. VOSD teamed up with the Chula Vista brewery to celebrate 20 years of independent journalism, and the pale Mexican-style lager is now being poured at 3 Punks’ taproom. Grab a pint (while it lasts) and keep supporting local media and small businesses!
- Little Italy is getting a dose of Argentina when Piedra Santa opens at 555 W. Ash Street this week. The Argentinian steakhouse from Alberto Morreale and Roberto Ciacciofera covers 3,000-square feet of interior dining, plus another 1,000-square feet of patio space with a focus on dry-aged steaks cooked over an open flame, plus plenty of Argentinian wines and cocktails. I got a sneak peek at the menu, and let’s just say I’m all in on the Parrillada for Two with USDA Prime skirt steak, bone-in short rib, and Morcilla Argentina paisa chorizo with a side of truffled papas fritas. They’ll also have rack of lamb, Chilean sea bass, Jidori chicken, and king salmon, you name it.
- North County gets a new globally-inspired restaurant this week. A Lo Fresco takes cues from founders Olga Saldivar and Emilio Herrera’s travels to places like Miami, Mexico, Peru, and Korea for a health-conscious menu centered around customizable bowls, wraps, and cold-pressed juices and smoothies.
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
