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Food & Drink JANUARY 11, 2013

Restaurant Week Top 40

What Troy Johnson would eat

Restaurant Week Top 40
Things to Do: January 14-20

San Diego Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week is upon us. Simple concept. Chefs create a special prix fixe menu. You pick an appetizer, entree and a dessert from a few options. And then they heavily, heavily discount the cost. So, go nuts.

Only problem? There are 187 restaurants this year. A boatload. So I Casey Kasem’d the list down to the RESTAURANT WEEK TOP 40. After eating at a majority over the last six years, I feel your path to enlightenment lays with these—the best, the brightest, the newest, the most generous. I thought about doing a Top 10, but every year the Top 10 are sold out or only have 5PM reservations available. Plus, maybe you just feel like sushi tonight, not fancypants California-Franco cuisine. Or, let’s say you don’t want to drive to La Jolla. This list will give you a quality handful of options—different cuisine, price range, menu—depending on your mood, appetite and geographical concerns.

I then went through every menu and pretended like I was ordering. By no means follow my menu choices. I just liked spending five hours of my day role-playing. And it gives you a decent idea of what they’re serving. Click on any portion of our selects to go to the full menu.

Note: The following are NOT numbered in order of favorite. It’s just proof I can count. Also, I only covered dinner. But some spots offer lunch, too.

NORTH COUNTY

(Del Mar to Oceanside, plus inland North County)

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

1. Market Restaurant + Bar ($40)

Carl Schroeder was the only SD chef nominated for a James Beard Award in 2011. He’s in a class of his own in the Via de la Valle corridor.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Roasted chile soup & braised pork shoulder tamale w/ lime-créme fraiche, Sonoma pepperjack cheese

Entree: Cast-iron grilled beef tenderloin w/ white cheddar-BLT souffle, forrest mushroom roast, Cabernet jus

Dessert: Lemon & vanilla bean meringue tart w/ candied kumquats, frozen yogurt, tangerine reduction

______________________

2. Amaya ($40)

No, Grand Del Mar’s show pony Addison isn’t running Restaurant Week. Their participation would make angels weep. But GDM does everything top-notch, and Amaya’s no mere consolation prize.

WHAT I’D ORDER

Appetizer: Grilled quail w/ chickpea blini, pomegranate jus

Entree: Roasted duck breast w/ spiced carrot puree, smoky red cabbage, honey-roasted turnips

Dessert: Warm honey-lemon financier cake w/ Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream, caramel sauce

______________________

3. Mille Fleurs ($40)

Chef Martin Woesle is one of the elite talents in San Diego. While hot young chefs come and go, this Chino Farms diehard has simply made a long, distinguished career of doing things right.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Spicy salmon-trout tartare w/ shaved fennel, crème fraiche, wasabi caviar

Entree: Prime beef flat iron steak w/ porcini sauce, heirloom carrots, handmade rosemary spätzle

Dessert: Apple fritters w/ hot mulled cider, vanilla ice cream, chantilly

______________________

4. Pacifica Del Mar ($40)

Pacifica’s got the best perch atop Plaza Del Mar. Pure Pacific Ocean eye-opium. And they’ve got a new exec chef in Stephany O’Mary-Berwald. Born and raised in Peru, she’s got a pedigree that includes exec positions at NYC’s Italian joint Bond 45, L.A.’s grab-and-go lunch spot Gram & Papa’s (exec) and Palihouse Courtyard Brasserie.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: White bean soup w/ herbed croutons and mascarpone

Entree: Sugar-spiced salmon w/ Chinese beans, garlic mashed potatoes, mustard sauce

Dessert: Vanilla bean crème brulee

______________________

5. Vintana ($30)

The Cohn Restaurant Group did a great job with this seemingly odd project—a massive, high-end restaurant atop a Lexus dealership in Escondido. Chef Deborah Scott has been a marquee name in San Diego since I was still lunchpailing it to Sunset Hills Elementary School (that’s a Rancho Penasquitos shout-out), but Vintana also brings in sommelier Sheehan McCoy, fresh from England’s three-Michelin-starred Waterside Inn. It’s the most impressive view-restaurant in Escondido.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Pepita & sesame-crusted brie w/ jalapeño jelly, honey-roasted garlic, scallion flatbread

Entree: Lemon-thyme roasted chicken w/ buttermilk mash, sauteed greens, apple cider pan jus, glazed baby carrots

Dessert: Key lime tartlet w/ fresh berries, toasted coconut, meringue

______________________

6. 333 Pacific ($30)

Another Cohn entry. Oceanside was a fine-dining desert until 333 went in, and it’s one of the stars of CRG’s portfolio, specializing in boat-fresh seafood and enough vodka to make them honorary Russkies.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: White bean and tasso ham soup w/ pesto, grilled artichoke, parmesan

Entree: Tarragon-encrusted sea bass w/ warm red bliss potato salad, whole grain mustard vinaigrette, applewood smoked bacon, braised greens

Dessert: Apple streusel cheesecake w/ caramel sauce

 

CENTRAL CITY
(Little Italy, North Park, Bankers Hill, Hillcrest, Mission Hills, etc.)

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

7. La Villa ($30)

La Villa is one of the most underrated restaurants in Little Italy. Along with Bencotto, they represent the modern blood infusion into the area’s Italian food scene. The owners have proven their top-notch grub at their other spots, Il Trulli and Buon Appetito.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Niman Ranch pork belly w/ spiced apple puree, citrus glaze

Entree: Sweet potato gnocchi w/ crispy duck, pumpkin, fresh chickpea, wild spinach, sage

Dessert: Salted chocolate mousse w/ hazelnut-pecan prailine, Maldon sea salt

_____________________

8. Prepkitchen Little Italy ($30)

With the Little Italy location, Prepkitchen—the casual offshoot of chef Ryan Johnston and restaurateur Arturo Kassel’s show-pony, Whisknladle—took a leap forward. The huge, salvage-decor space above the corner of India and Date is simply one of the area’s coolest rooms to hang out in. And Johnston’s a talent.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Crispy pork belly w/ faro, tangerine, charred escarole & molasses glaze

Entree: Crow’s Pass squash ravioli w/ quince mostardo, hazelnut, butter, Parmesan and sage

Dessert: Sticky toffee pudding w/ dates, brandy, cinnamon, nutmeg, candied orange and Chantilly

______________________

9. Azuki Sushi Lounge ($30)

A Bankers Hill sushi gem. Doesn’t get as much attention as Hane, simply because Hane is tied to local icon Sushi Ota. I’ve never had a bad experience, and the design beats the hell out of Hane.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Spicy albacore tataki w/ Japanese cucumber, diced jalapeño, shichimi pepper, ponzu

Entree: 7-piece omakase sushi (chef’s choice) w/ onikoroshi honjozo

Dessert: Crispy spring roll w/ banana, azuki paste and mascarpone cheese, vanilla ice cream

______________________

10. Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant ($30)

This is the casual offshoot from Del Mar’s Market Restaurant + Bar. Chef de cuisine Ted Smith worked closely under Market’s supreme leader Carl Schroeder. And since Schroeder is both an elite talent and a quality-control obsessive, Bankers Hill isn’t much of a dropoff from the flagship restaurant.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Fuyu persimmon & prosciutto salad w/ arugula, fennel, toasted hazelnuts, cranberry-ginger vinaigrette

Entree: Mesquite-grilled local thresher shark w/ corn tamale, Swiss chard, braised tomatillo & poblano sauce

Dessert: TBD

______________________

11. Bertand at Mister A’s ($40)

The best view in San Diego. Downtown skyline. San Diego Bay. Planes taking off into the Pacific sunset (to the chagrin of Point Loma homeowners). Brilliant. And Bertrand Hug—owner, host, maitre’d—is just about the last of the old guard who believes in well-orchestrated, world-class service.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Scallop and shrimp “gratinée” w/ leeks, white wine velouté, Gruyere

Entree: 48-hour braised Brandt Farm beef w/ horseradish cream, root veg

Dessert: Vanilla bean cheesecake w/ blood orange couli, Amaretto ice cream

______________________

12. Brooklyn Girl ($30)

Michael and Victoria McGeath’s Mission Hills joint is just what the neighborhood ordered—something with less 1980s design, plus a killer pizza and greasy, lovely cornbread.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: All-Kale Caesar w/ lemon, anchovies, croutons, Parmesan, bacon & eggs

Entree: Mary’s free-range half-chicken in a pot (smoked, oven-roasted) w/ onions, carrots, red potatoes, thyme butter

Dessert: Rosemary crème brulee

______________________

13. Cucina Urbana ($25, $30 or $35—your choice)

At first, the droves came for the spectacle—the former white-linen Laurel gutted to become farm-chic Cucina Urbana. But the crowds just keep coming and coming. That proves Tracy Borkum and chef Joe Magnanelli have simply done things right.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Zuppa (chef’s whim)

Entree: Brandt Farms ribeye w/ shallot al forno, gorgonzola potato croquette, spinach, smoked tomato vinaigrette

Dessert: Meyer Lemon cake w/ pistachio gelato, huckleberry jam, lemon curd

______________________

14. Farm House Café ($30)

Olivier Bioteau is one talented Frenchie, and though foodies would love him to expand, he’s apparently content with what he’s got—a claustrophobically tiny, pâté -peddling bistro that is always packed. Selecting his menu is easy—there’s only one option per course.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Tarte au brie (caramelized onion leek w/ brie fondue tart)

Entree: Grilled Berkshire Farms Pork New York w/ Yukon mashed potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts, caramelized apple, whole grain mustard jus

Dessert: Espellete chocolate lava cake w/ mango coulis

______________________

15. The Red Door ($30)

This is the neighborhood restaurant The Neighborhood always wanted to be. They’ve got an organic garden out back. They source local food. They pour small-batch wines. And chef Miguel Valdez churns out good riffs on unpretentious comfort food.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Local shrimp & chorizo w/ shallots, white wine, toms, cream, herbs, goat cheese and crispy cheese polenta cakes

Entree: Honey-glazed Mary’s duck leg w/ apricot-cranberry-walnut stuffing, sautéed garlic garden cauliflower & broccoli, Port reduction

Dessert: Wreck Alley Imperial Float w/ Karl Strauss Wreck Alley Imperial stout, vanilla ice cream

______________________

16. Wine Vault & Bistro ($20)

Every week is “Restaurant Week” at Wine Vault—a place known for remarkably high cuisine for remarkably low prices. At first, I thought for sure they were just buying frozen skirt steak from Sysco. Nope. It’s all top-notch, fresh food. They just somehow (cheap overhead, wine retail) do it so much cheaper than everybody else in town.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Seafood chowder w/ bay scallops, venus clams, fennel, crispy fingerling potatoes, leeks

Entree: Sous vide skirt steak w/ scallion chimichurri, smoked black bean ragout, glazed veggies

Dessert: Cinnamon butter cake w/ vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate-raisin compote, 34-year-old PX Sherry drizzle

______________________

17. Barrio Star

Isabel Cruz is one of the best Mexican chefs in the city. The New York Times named her 2008 book, Isabel’s Cantina one of the year’s most notable. This is her laidback showcase on Bankers Hill.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Cup of pozole of the day

Entree: Pepita-crusted local seabass w/ jalapeño lime sauce, Mexican rice and steamed greens

Dessert: Flamed bananas

 

DOWNTOWN

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

18. Café Chloe ($30)

One of the first to trailblaze East Village, Chloe is still tops in Downtown. Everyone—from owners to chef Katie Grebow to staff—is all-in, like the most food-knowledgeable, sophisticated little family. The most charming bistro in San Diego.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Warm crottin goat cheese & fig salad

Entree: Mussels belgique w/ pommes frites

Dessert: Pistachio bread pudding w/ vanilla ice cream

______________________

19. Gaijin Noodle + Sake House ($20)

I overlooked chef Antonio Friscia for a long time, partially because I suspected a high-end club like Stingaree was more into bottle service than grub. But at every name-chef event, Friscia’s creations were among the best. Gaijin is his pan-Asian joint, where the focus is more on his food.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer #1: Tamarind-braised Beef tongue & cheek bao bao w/ steamed bao bun, jalapeño, cilantro, red rock sugar, peanuts

Appetizer #2: Yakitori (changes daily, but hope for Jidori chicken wing)

Entree: Gaijin drunken noodles w/ sake, beef, Jidori chicken, bacon, veggies, oyster sauce

Dessert: Mochi (Japanese stick rice cake)

______________________

20. Cowboy Star ($40)

My personal favorite steakhouse in San Diego. It’s as good if not better than the big, expense-account places, plus it’s got better/quirkier design (cowpoke chic) and chef Victor Jimenez gets more inventive than the usual steakhouse suspects allow. And the brown-liquor creatives at the bar are top-notch.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Tortellini w/ braised short rib, sautéed nettles, crispy Brussels sprout leaves

Entree: Venison loin w/ parsnip puree, pear-cranberry relish, sautéed chard, red wine sauce

Dessert: Chocolate bread pudding w/ warm butterscotch sauce and chocolate ice cream

______________________

21. Crab Hut ($40)

It looks and feels like some sort of Red Lobster chain. But rest assured, this Cajun-style fish joint is owned by a Vietnamese family who spent time in the bayou. Plus, you’re getting either a whole dungeness crab or a lobster—with an app and dessert—for $40. Unbeatable.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Crab chowder w/ lump crabmeat

Entree: Whole dungeness crab w/ Cajun sauce

Dessert: Bourbon bread pudding

______________________

22. Donovan’s ($40)

After tasting most of the bigger steakhouse chains, I’ve always been most impressed by Donovan’s. This isn’t an R&D lab of molecular gastronomy. It’s a steakhouse. If all you do is meat, you’re going to cook it perfectly every single time on instinct.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Caesar Salad

Entree: Twin prime filet medallions w/ bleu cheese and port wine demi-glace

Dessert: Crème brulee

______________________

23. Grant Grill ($40)

The Grant is a Downtown classic, and chef Chris Kurth is a farmers market diehard with a keen sense of the classics. Plus, the place looks like the mob might come in dressed in impeccable suits with starlets on their arms and have dinner with guns beneath their suit coats. Old Hollywood glamour meets dinner.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Fortified chicken boullion w/ chicken liver parfait, brioche, parmesan, cilantro and curried carrots

Entree: Molasses-cured duck breast w/ braised endive, savory granola, bergamot-scented duck jus, spice bread crisp

Dessert: Tahitian squash olive oil cake w/ pistachios, tangerine lace, ginger custard, brown sugar ice cream

______________________

24. Nobu ($40)

Nobu is not an inexpensive restaurant. When you offer top-notch sushi, have chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s personal recipes, and serve it in a multimillion-dollar showplace, you have every right to charge more. So experiencing it at half the cost is an especially rare thing.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Creamy crab yuzu kosho w/ King Crab, Japanese pepper aioli and lime

Entree: Black cod with miso. The legendary dish. Worth it every time

Dessert: Meyer lemon roll w/ soufflé sponge, Meyer lemon curd, pistachio sauce, mascarpone sherbet

______________________

25. Searsucker ($40)

This is what started it for SD’s hottest restaurant empire—Enlightened Hospitality Group (chef Brian Malarkey, nightlifer James Brennan, designer Thomas Schoos). I’ve found the food at most Malarkey spots hit-and-miss. But Searsucker’s never been just about food. For grub, design, cocktails and vibe takent together… absolutely a winner.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Short rib “Cali-belgique” w/ horseradish and fried onion

Entree: Flat iron w/ “chuck” chimichurri and béarnaise

Dessert: Cinnamon doughnuts w/ malted dark chocolate cream

______________________

26. The Westgate ($40)

Chef Fabrice Hardel is one of, if not the best chef currently working in Downtown. The Frenchie has the classical training required of the old-world, ornate German restaurant, but he’s also wildly creative and uses just enough modern magic (molecular gastronomy) to make a great meal without ruining it.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Hudson valley Duck Prosciutto w/ Parmesan-Reggiano soufflé, fig wonton, peppercress and grapes

Entree: Black Angus Beef Tenderloin w/ Weiser Farms potatoes, Sandeman Port wine, black truffle gello and grilled king oyster mushrooms

Dessert: Deconstructed banana split w/ banana tuile, chocolate-vanilla mousse and strawberries, almond flake ice cream

______________________

27. 1500 Ocean ($40)

It’s The Del. Short of Amy Winehouse’s ghost dirty dancing with Marilyn’s on the bar, what new can be said of the place? Nothing. Except that their new executive chef Robert Hohmann has one hell of a pedigree—including a James Beard Award nomination for best chef in the Pacific region and sous chef at Mario Batali’s Del Posto.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Burrata bruschetta w/ walnut pesto, coppa, black truffle gastrique

Entree: Moulard duck breast w/ cranberry, chicory, spaetzle, parsnip puree

Dessert: Chocolate polenta cake w/ spiced cherry, moscato sabayon

______________________

28. JSix ($30)

We let a singular tear loose when chef Christian Graves was named GM of Hotel Solamar, meaning he wouldn’t be in the kitchen as often. But Graves is among the city’s elite, a true talent with anything that swims. And he still oversees all that happens at the newly remodeled JSix.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Black Tellicherry pepper pappardelle w/ Parmesan cream sauce, cured pork jowl, sage

Entree: Caramelized Maine diver scallops w/ duckfat potatoes, roasted maitake, porcini-chestnut puree

Dessert: Walnut-chocolate tart w/ salted caramel, walnut crust, chocolate top

 

BEACH AREAS
(OB, PB, Mission)

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

29. Bo Beau ($30)

Simply the best thing Cohn Restaurant Group has done. Their partnership with impeccably romantic designer Philippe Beltran resulted in a candlelit room that raises human fertility by 300 percent. And chef Katherine Humphus’ beef bourgingnon is one of the best I’ve had in San Diego.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Escargot w/ garlic herb butter

Entree: Beef bourgignon w/ braised short ribs, baby carrots, pancetta, mushrooms, pearl onions, fingerling potatoes

Dessert: Cinnamon roll (baked to order) w/ cinnamon butter swirl, vanilla icing, candied pecans

______________________

30. Firefly @ The Dana ($30)

Though attached to The Dana hotel, the Firefly has become a locals’ favorite for lunch. it’s got a great perch next to a small marina on Mission Bay, overlooking the Ingram Street bridge that looks, if you tilt your head right and strain your imagination, like the Coronado bridge. A recent tasting of chef Eric Manuel’s menu was very good.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Deviled eggs w/ tobiko, house pancetta, cucumber salad, ginger dressing

Entree: Sofrito-brasied veal osso bucco w/ sweet potato puree, rapini

Dessert: Port and honey-poached pear and fig w/ Port semifreddo, vanilla wafer, graham cracker, honey sabayon

______________________

31. The Fishery ($40)

Pacific Beach is no culinary haven. But The FIshery is one of its gems, with chef Paul Arias cooking some of the best unpretentious seafood in the city. It only got better when they hired A.R. Valentien’s chef de cuisine Tim Kolanko as general manager last year.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Steamed shrimp dumpling w/ fresh blood orange dipping sauce

Entree: Grilled albacore belly w/ kabocha squash and mushroom fried rice

Dessert: Coconut angel food cake w/ tropical fruit, blood orange sabayon

 

LA JOLLA

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

32. George’s California Modern (Dinner, $40)

Trey Foshee is one of the best chefs in the country. The expansive menu they’re offering for Restaurant Week is an unheralded steal. Especially when it includes feelgood, super-sustainable items like grilled local sardines (don’t write off the little guys til you try ’em.)

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Grilled local sardines w/ cedar, marinated mussels, aori ika (squid), wild fennel, whipped cream

Entree: Smoked Maine lobster w/ chorizo, pear, black truffle gastrique, sweet onion, Chino Farms beans

Dessert: Cider poached apples w/ honey cake, black tea custard, honey caramel, green apple sorbet

______________________

33. Whisknladle ($40)

This is where chef Ryan Johnston and owner Arturo Kassel first made their name with comfort food and craft cocktails. The original Snake Oil Cocktails—SD’s first artisan cocktail supergroup—was formed at the bar. Everything’s made in-house. Everything’s very good, and getting better with Johnston hanging around the kitchen again more often these days.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Local halibut crudo w/ beet puree, Meyer lemon, puntarelle and Misuna

Entree: Confit of Moulard duck leg w/ crispy potatoes, savoy  spinach

Dessert: Orange cream semifreddo w/ coconut lace cookies, blood oranges and caramel

______________________

34. Nine-Ten ($40)

My first choice across the city. No one’s blown my mind like Jason Knibb has. The fact that he’s serving his Jamaican jerk pork belly as an appetizer for restaurant week? Well, I’d pay $40 for that dish alone.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Jamaican jerk pork belly w/ baby carrots, Swiss chard, plantains, black-eyed peas, spicy jellies and sweet potato puree

Entree: Roasted Baquetta sea bass w/ Asian pears, celery root, maitake mushrooms, celery root puree, yuzu-tangerine gastrique

Dessert: Pumpkin bon-bons w/ pumpkin gelato, devil’s food cake, spiced yogurt foam, black sesame meringue

______________________

35. Herringbone ($40)

Enlightened Hospitality Group is known mostly for the design of Searsucker, but I like this room more. Something about the old brick, arced air-hangar ceilings and the fact that they planted giant olive trees indoors. And chef Amanda Baumgarden is a talent.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Shrimp and local bass ceviche w/ housemade crackers, avocado mousse

Entree: Pan-seared, blackened Texas red fish w/ caramelized cauliflower, Concord grape, caper and Vadouvan butter

Dessert: Pumpkin and dark chocolate bread pudding w/ brownie crunch, chocolate hazelnut mousse, butterscotch

______________________

36. Seasons 52 ($30)

Along with True Food Kitchen, this is part of the new restaurant movement to create gourmet meals without the guilt. Everything on menu is under 475 calories. Alternative fats like avocado replace animal fats. I had the cedar-plank salmon at their grand opening, and I didn’t miss the calories whatsoever. Plus, they’re offering more food for the buck than any other spot.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Sonoma goat-cheese ravioli w/ organic tomato broth, roasted garlic, fresh sweet basil

Salad: Organic baby spinach salad w/ seasonal pears, toasted pine nuts, crumbled gorgonzola cheese

Entree: Cedar-plank roasted Pacific king salmon w/ roasted rainbow carrots, fresh asparagus, Weiser Farm roasted potatoes

Dessert: “Mini-indulgence desserts” (TBD)

______________________

37. The Grill @ The Lodge ($40)

The Lodge at Torrey Pines is one of SD’s top properties. They don’t skimp on talent. Sure, AR Valentien (the showroom) isn’t taking part in Restaurant Week. But spending a day golfing Torrey Pines and ending with a three-courser with some craft beer doesn’t suck whatsoever.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Winter squash soup w/ vanilla bean, sage and brown butter

Entree: Coq au Biere (brown ale chicken stew) w/ roasted breast, mashed potatoes and root veg

Dessert: Angel Food Cake w/ caramelized pineapple and whipped crème fraiche

______________________

38. The Marine Room (Dinner, $40)

San Diego’s got two Master French Chefs, and Marine Room’s Bernard Guillas is one of ’em. He and chef de cuisine Ron Oliver are globally-minded, using spices (pollens of all sorts) and techniques you don’t usually see. And, yeah, the La Jolla Cove waves still massage those plate-glass windows.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Sea of Cortez crab tmbale w/ buttercup squash nectar, vanilla pearls, trout caviar

Entree: Dill pollen-spiced diver scallops and wild prawn w/ carrot-tangerine risotto, green papaya, tarragon white port reduction

Dessert: Trilogy of honey-chestnut gelato, cacao nib cordillera chocolate dome, orangecello pot de crème

______________________

39. Brockton Villa ($30)

The brunch-famous, upscale beach shack has one of the best views of La Jolla Cove. Chef Mareyja Sisbarro’s “Coast Toast” is one of those must-eat entries on the SD food pantheon.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: “Epic Chowder” w/ sea clams, blue crab, bacon, Yukon potatoes, saffron cream

Entree: Lemon goat cheese Jidori chicken w/ pancetta cannellini beans, Brussels sprouts, radicchio, artichoke hearts, arugula, mustard-seed vinaigrette

Dessert: Coast Toast a la mode w/ Gelato Vera Tahitian vanilla bean

 

THE FAR EAST

Restaurant Week Top 40

Restaurant Week Top 40

40. Terra American Bistro ($30)

Jeff Rossman has been farm-to-tabling since most chefs were still trucking their frozen corn from Iowa. There’s a burgeoning creative class out in La Mesa (Homes for under $2.2 million! WIth backyards!), and Rossman is the top chef serving ’em. If you’re out east and would rather not spend $40 on gas to get to a $40 dinner in La Jolla, Terra is a fantastic option.

WHAT I’D ORDER…

Appetizer: Steamed Carlsbad black mussels w/ garlic, onions, peppers, cream, white wine herb broth

Entree: Karl Strauss Amber Lager-braised pot roast w/ mashed Yukon potatoes, local veggies, truffle oil

Dessert: Banana bread puddin’ w/ candied pecans, Maker’s Mark bourbon, butterscotch, whipped cream

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Food & Drink JULY 27, 2026

San Diego’s New Wine Club Is Built on Trust, Not Algorithms

Word of Mouth skips endless scrolling and lets two longtime industry pros choose what members drink each month

San Diego’s New Wine Club Is Built on Trust, Not Algorithms
Courtesy of Word of Mouth Wine Club

If I have to choose between letting a trusted friend pick a bottle of wine or some random algorithm boosted by a faceless entity, I’m gonna go with the human 10 out of 10 times. And when you have friends like Amanda Sarich and Robert Blair, it’s pretty easy to trust their picks are going to be unique, tasty, and probably something I haven’t seen before.

Between the two of them, they have over three decades of experience working in wine. From buying to operations to building wine lists, they’ve worked together, wined together, and now, are going into business together with the Word of Mouth Wine Club.

Word of Mouth is a members-only monthly subscription that sends you two handpicked bottles each month, chosen entirely by the duo’s palates. It’s less “build your own box” and more “enjoy the surprise.” “The goal with the wine club was basically to get members that want to turn over their faith in our collections,” Sarich says. “Trust us—we’ll send you the cool stuff.”

The two first met while working at We Olive wine bar and shop in La Jolla, where Sarich joined the opening team in 2011 before eventually becoming a corporate wine director overseeing stores and franchises throughout California. Blair arrived the following year, after stints at Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido and Alternative Wines in Carmel Valley, later spending nearly a decade helping build Village Vino in Kensington. 

When Village Vino closed last November, Sarich had recently returned home to San Diego after years in the Bay Area and brought Blair on board for a project she’s working on—Serafino, a cafe and wine bar slated to open in Mission Hills next fall. But to bridge the gap between Village Vino closing and Serafino opening, the two partners kept the momentum going by launching Word of Mouth. 

Blair says once Serafino opens, the team will launch a wine club for that business that will focus on everyday drinking wines from anywhere. Word of Mouth is for us “to geek out a little bit,” he says, with more adventurous or hard-to-find options from small production family farmers. (But as a bonus, Word of Mouth subscribers will become Seraphino’s founding members, receiving exclusive benefits for supporting the project from day one.)

Current memberships include two bottles delivered monthly—usually a red and a white, though sparkling, rosé, orange, or skin-contact wines are always fair game. Members can choose three-month, six-month, or annual subscriptions, and every shipment includes detailed tasting notes, producer stories, pairing suggestions, and fun extras like playlists, puzzles, and the occasional surprise.

The selections often revolve around loose themes. For instance, they used the idea of what wines they’d drink at a summer barbecue to select the two bottles in the July box—which happened to be a pale French rosé and Mourvèdre from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. 

Over the last decade, places like Rumi, Clos, and Vino Carta have helped transform the San Diego wine scene from mainstream labels and a stodgy vibe to eclectic discoveries that break a lot of the former rules. Word of Mouth hopes to continue that evolution. 

“I think it’s fostered a more adventurous sense of exploration,” Blair says. “There’s room in San Diego to keep expanding people’s palates.” Sarich agrees. “We’re trying to bring our fun wine palate to the world.” Bottoms up.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • An’s Gelato continues its march towards worldwide domination this weekend when it opens its fifth storefront at the Top Gun House at Mission Pacific in Oceanside. An’s Gate D5 opens on Saturday, July 25 with an airport-inspired theme that follows in the footsteps of its previous stores (An’s Dry Cleaning in North Park, An’s Hatmakers in Del Mar, etc.) and will offer rotating flavors like “Checked Bag,” “Carry On,” and global flavors like “Ho Chi Minh” with banana and Saigon coffee, or “McAllen” with strawberry and grapefruit. 
  • Tony Gwynn Day returns to AleSmith Brewing Company on August 15 in celebration of Mr. Padres’ 2,000th and 3,000th hit anniversary. Grab one of the special beer releases and a bite from one of the onsite food trucks and watch the Padres take on the Guardians at 4 p.m. Go Dads!
  • Celebrate 10 years of the San Diego Sake Festival on September 27 at the Julep Venue, where guests can dive into over 100 premium sakes from 50 booths, plus food pairings, workshops, and kagami-biraki (the ceremonial opening of a sake barrel). VIP tickets get you in an hour earlier, plus a $10 food voucher, and that’s not even mentioning getting first taste of some of the rarest and most limited sakes at the festival. This is the real deal, so get your kanpai on and toast a decade of deliciousness.

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene

Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink JULY 23, 2026

San Diego’s Biggest Summer Seafood Party Is Coming Back 

Dockside Night Market returns to Tuna Harbor Dockside Market on August 6 for one night only

San Diego’s Biggest Summer Seafood Party Is Coming Back 
Photo Credit: James Tran

Ask any local, human or shark—San Diego summer doesn’t really start until August. After June Gloom lifts and children file back into the halls of academia, our coastline comes to life with more space on the sand and a water temperature that finally rises above muscle-clenchingly frigid. 

What better way to welcome Local’s Summer than by celebrating the bounty of the sea? At least, that’s what the gang at Puffer Malarkey Collective (PMC) figured when they launched Dockside Night Market four years ago. 

Despite being born and raised in San Diego, Lillian Dang (the event’s co-producer and marketing director for PMC) says she didn’t know how abundant our local seafood scene was until she left and came back. “We are spoiled here,” she says, pointing not only to our plentiful produce from local farms, but also our sea-borne treasures. 

When she and her co-producer Lucien Conner (PMC’s director of operations) brainstormed over what they felt the city’s food scene lacked, they realized: “What’s missing is an event that really celebrates the local seafood,” explains Dang.

Photo Credit: Enrique Espinoza

Dockside Night Market is meant to be a “San Diego summer party on the pier,” she says, bringing together local fishermen and local chefs to highlight the fruits of the local seas. Chefs from some of San Diego’s best restaurants clamor to be a part of the 15-chef-max roster, including Travis Swikard (Callie and Fleurette), David Sim (Kingfisher), Aidan Owens (Herb & Wood), Chianne Mallari (Herb & Sea), Tara Monsod (Animae), Jacob Ruck and Eric Bost (Jeune et Jolie), not to mention Mabel’s Gone Fishing, Bica, The Lion’s Share, Nine-Ten, Marisi… you get the idea. 

Part of the intrigue is not knowing exactly what seafood will appear—in past years, there’s been uni, bluefin tuna, halibut, black cod, but it ultimately comes down to what’s fresh and what’s available. And with a chef lineup like that, it’s fun to imagine what sorts of surprises await. (If you’d like a small hint, there are calendars of seasonal availability in the area.)

The one-night-only annual event takes place at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market on Tuna Harbor Pier (598 Harbor Lane), the same spot as the weekly fish market every Saturday from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. or sellout (it’s usually the latter). VIPs get in at 6 p.m. and general admission is 7 p.m., and 100 percent of all ticket profits go to support the San Diego Fishermen’s Working Group, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit created to support the best interests of the region’s commercial fishermen. There’s also four cash bars and a live DJ (but leave the kids and pets at home).

“I think this is an event that can only happen in San Diego,” says Dang. Our city’s culinary cache is on the rise, and our proximity to some of the best fishing waters in the world make it a pretty dynamic duo. “It’s curated, it’s intimate, it’s all the things,” she promises. 

Dockside Night Market takes places on Thursday, August 6, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market.

Courtesy of Town & Country Resort

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • The future of one of San Diego’s quintessential restaurants is up in the air. For 50 years, Kearny Mesa’s 94th Aero Squadron has slung its signature champagne brunch buffet, lunch, and dinner from a WWI-inspired restaurant and events space that looks like it was dropped straight from the French countryside. Recently and without fanfare, the restaurant added a message to its website that reads “Our restaurant is closed until further notice. We apologize for the inconvenience.” Mysterious, alarming, and vague—one can only hope it takes flight once more. 
  • Apparently July is “National Pickle Month,” and if I’d known sooner, I would have celebrated accordingly (by stealing all the leftover pickles from people’s plates at lunch). I’m already deeply devoted to TNT’s pickle pizza any month of the year, but Town and Country Resort in Mission Valley is joining the briny fun with two specials at the lobby bar Monkeybar through the end of June—the Monkeybar Spicy Pickletini (vodka, spicy pickle juice, dry vermouth, the the resort’s housemade Riki Tiki hot sauce) and the “What’s the Big Dill” pizza, a not-terribly-creatively-named pie with mozzarella, red sauce, dill pickles, bacon bites, and a dill garnish. I’ll admit I haven’t had a pickle pie with red sauce before, so I’m interested in checking it out for that novelty alone. (Have you tried either? I’m genuinely curious how they are, so drop me a line at [email protected] to let us know!)
  • Since 2009, restaurateur Tracy Borkum’s Urban Kitchen Group restaurant collective has operated places like Cucina Urbana, The Kitchen at MCASD, and more, racking up local likes and an IYKYK reputation for solid food at decent prices. Now, all three of her Cucina locations (San Diego, Newport Beach, and Irvine) are offering new price-conscious specials that help ease the financial stress for people who just want to eat some damn good food without going broke. One example: for $145, their Sunday Supper special feeds four people with a family-style Italian feast of focaccia, salad, a whole spatchcock chicken, veggies, polenta, a choice of Rigatoni Bolognese or Bucatini Amatriciana, and tiramisu to finish things up. For a casual pizza and wine night, their happy hour bar special from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. gets you a margherita or pepperoni pizza, plus a bottle of red or white wine for $45. Simple? Yes. Savings? Also yes. Scrumptious? Undoubtedly.

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene

Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Food & Drink JULY 17, 2026

Chula Tacos Is Opening a New Ocean Beach Location

The fast-growing taqueria will open its third restaurant on Newport Avenue after a viral social media moment fueled its rapid expansion

Chula Tacos Is Opening a New Ocean Beach Location
Courtesy of Chula Tacos

When Rigo Munoz opened a weekends-only taco stand on Market Street in 2018, at first, he was just hoping to sell his tacos to however many customers he could. That low-key, word of mouth approach worked well for a couple years. Very well. 

“Then, the line started,” he laughs. He began to double his sales week after week, until an influencer from Tijuana paid them an undercover visit in 2024. Munoz was hanging out in his backyard the next Monday when his phone started pinging and ringing off the hook. “So I go onto my social media and there, lo and beyond, the video already had 10,000, 12,000 views in like, less than an hour,” he says. The next day, there was a line of customers waiting for him before he opened at 5 p.m. The Chula Tacos revolution sparked there. 

Now, he’s ready to open his third location on August 1 at 4994 Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach. It wasn’t an easy or straightforward path—the city shut down his original location citing too much noise and traffic. But Munoz was looking ahead, already in talks with a restaurateur to take over his space at 1719 Palm Avenue in the Nestor neighborhood of southeast San Diego. From the time he got shut down to getting the keys of his first brick-and-mortar was less than two days. 

The second location in Chula Vista caught fire on Valentine’s Day and is slated to reopen later this fall (689 H Street). Munoz says he also plans to open a fourth location somewhere between the Ocean Beach and Morena Boulevard areas, but has aspirations for more.

“I’d like to become the In-N-Out of tacos,” he says. He’s actively looking for places that could support either a drive-thru or the typical fast-casual taqueria style, but no matter what, he’s going to keep his menu simple. 

Each location has the same menu, except labio, which are ox lips, and beef intestines. They’re top-sellers at Palm Avenue, but might not translate as well to the OB crowd, he says. But guests can still get their fix of vampiro tacos, tacos de trompo, and from-scratch horchata and jamaica. 

Chula Tacos is best known for its kekas (pronounced keh-kuhs), which are extra-large quesadillas stuffed with your choice of meat. “It’s a hefty thing,” Munoz promises. It’s such a trademark that he filed for a patent, which is still pending. 

Building a taco empire has been a long time coming. Munoz first started making tacos at age 12, and has operated a number of cafes, delis, and other businesses on both sides of the border ever since. “We’re a family business,” he says. He’s been trying to hit that mother lode for years—and all it took was one video to light the fuse.

The newest location of Chula Tacos opens August 1 at 4994 Newport Avenue, Suite A in Ocean Beach. Hours of operation are 11 a.m. to midnight daily.  (Opening date subject to change.) 

Courtesy of Oceanside Sustainable Food Festival

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • Everyone (clap) watches (clap, clap) women’s sports! (Thunderous applause!) San Diego’s first women’s sports bar, One of Us, opened this week in the former URBN Pizza space in North Park. I stopped by the preview and can confirm the Big Ass Fan is still there, but now there are tons of TVs lining the walls ready to broadcast women’s soccer, basketball, volleyball, and all the other sports events you could ever dream of. (And yes, they’ll be showing the men’s World Cup on Sunday, because I guess people watch men’s sports, too.) 
  • Rolando’s ears must have been burning, because a month after interviewing chef Coral Strong of the now-closed Garden Kitchen, Campus Burgers announced plans to turn the formerly hyperlocal farm-to-table restaurant into a spot for affordable smashburgers. I’m sure the local college kids will appreciate the $1.99 smashburger special—although let’s face it, in today’s expensive times, everyone is ready for a wallet-friendly outing. 
  • A few months ago, I gave Navore Market’s farm-to-front door delivery service a try and as a longtime former CSA subscriber, I have to admit it felt nice to leave the produce purchasing to the pros. But as of July 12, you can now head to Navore’s second community pickup hub at Mission Valley YMCA (5505 Friars Road) every Sunday from noon to 4 p.m. Having a centralized drop-off point makes it easy for farmers, and buyers don’t have to commit to a subscription—sounds like a farm-to-table win to me. 
  • Keeping on with the farm-to-table news, the 4th annual Oceanside Sustainable Food Festival is scheduled for July 25 in downtown Oceanside, bringing 50-plus vendors together for a day of global food and drink, artisan products, home goods, live music, and more. The event usually draws in a couple thousand people, so might I suggest arriving close to the 11 a.m. kickoff for the best chance at maximizing your nom?

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene

Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].

Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Studio S FEBRUARY 26, 2026

Chef Aidan Owens Thinks Your Fish is Boring

The 29-year-old culinary director at Herb & Sea is making seafood sexy (and approachable) again

Implementing a farm-to-table model hardly deserves acknowledgement these days. It’s not a stretch. It’s not innovative. “It’s the bare f**king minimum,” says Herb & Sea‘s executive chef Aidan Owens.  

When I arrive at the Encinitas restaurant, I’m ready to talk sustainability, farm-to-table stuff, with Owens. “Did you see the chin on that?” he says of the extra big jiggly chin on the sheephead that just arrived with the day’s fresh catch. I did. It was Jay Leno adjacent.

I learn quickly that he somehow oozes both charm and stone-cold honesty. Maybe he could construct a new dish with chin goo, like he did when he had a bunch of tuna scraps and voila’d it into a smooth and crowd-pleasing ‘nduja. “I want to know what’s in there,” he says.    

Courtesy of Herb & Sea

The instinct to look closer, to dig into what others might discard, says a lot about the chef’s approach. I guide him back to our topic, but he has something else on his mind. “We’re overcomplicating food—what happened to just cooking good food and having fun with it?”

Owens grew up on a farm in Byron Bay, Australia, where sustainability wasn’t a concept you chat about so much as a way of life. Think dirt roads, backyard chickens, pulling vegetables straight from the ground, and a mother who believed that if you couldn’t pronounce the ingredients on a package, you shouldn’t eat what was inside.

Food wasn’t precious or performative. Making it was what you did because you were hungry and that’s still what inspires Owens today. “I like to cook good food because I like to eat good food,” he says.

His approach to sustainability at Herb & Sea began so naturally that it felt just like instinct. “I was just like, ‘Let’s order food from the people who live and work here,’” he says.

Courtesy of Herb & Sea

And why wouldn’t he when lives in San Diego? Cities all over the world vie for our goods. Our tuna is sent overseas. Our spiny lobsters hit dinner plates in China and Japan. Not to mention California’s producing a third of the country’s vegetables and three-quarters of its fruits and nuts. 

“Why would we outsource when it’s all here?” Owens asks.

Sustainability, in this context, is about cooking what exists in abundance, nearby, right now. “I love the local fish here. It’s f**king delicious and San Diego citrus, I mean, it is so f**ing good,” he says.

Instead of importing ingredients, Owens also looks for nearby alternatives. “You can find really cool things in the local waters,” he says, pointing out that stingray cheeks taste similar to scallops.

Courtesy of Herb & Sea

Whatever he finds in that sheephead chin might just be the next substitute for marrow. But to make this work, it means getting diners amped up about the slightly unfamiliar. 

Tasting menus, where diners are completely in his hands, become an opportunity to gently push boundaries. “I’ll serve mackerel, because people think they hate it,” Owens says, noting that the abundant local fish can have some fishiness. “But when it’s fresh, it’s arguably one of the best fish in the ocean.”

He also tweaks the language on the menu so people might feel more compelled to give dishes a try without preconceived notions. He might use “lengua” instead of “tongue.” “Whelk” instead of “snail.” When he puts “stingray throat” on the menu, he disarmingly calls it “skate.” 

To reduce waste, scraps aren’t always discarded but rather turned into something new. Sometimes they’re smoked, cured or fermented. Apples going bad turn into apple ponzu. Lemons turn to marmalade, which stretches their usefulness far beyond peak season. “And it’s super tasty on our pizza,” he says.

What makes the food even richer, is the relationships he’s built with farmers. Though it didn’t always feel natural, Owens sought personal connection first. He recalls approaching a fisherman at the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market. “I was awkward,” he says. “I went up to him and said, ‘I like your fish.’”

Owen’s is now so close to his suppliers—like fishermen Ryan Sebo and Joe Daly—that he gets texted pictures of fresh catches right as they flop on the boat. The messages always ask if he wants first dibs. “I say yes to a lot of fish,” Owens says, noting that Herb & Sea can go through 2,000 pounds of seafood a week.

Courtesy of Herb & Sea

The next evolution of sustainability, in his view, will be chefs working directly with producers such as his alliance with Sebo, cutting out middlemen and purveyors where possible. “It will put more money in the pockets of the people doing the work,” he says.

It will mean that chefs can’t just know their local farmers and producers, but they’ll choose to work with the ones who have the best practices. Dining and sustainability will become much less about the final plate. “It will be more about the impact that plate has on the Earth,” he says.  

Ultimately, he believes sustainability doesn’t need to be loud. It doesn’t need hashtags. It just needs to be honest.

“We aren’t saving lives. We’re feeding people good food,” he says.

And yet, in feeding people well—simply, thoughtfully, responsibly—something meaningful happens. Guests leave satisfied. Ingredients are respected. Local ecosystems are supported and food returns to what it has always been at its core: nourishment, pleasure, and a quiet reflection of the place it comes from.

No buzzwords required.

Food & Drink JULY 14, 2026

5 Must-Try Meals in San Diego Right Now

SDM's staff shouts out our favorite food finds this month including bites from Stake Chophouse & Bar, Valentina, and Steady State

5 Must-Try Meals in San Diego Right Now
Courtesy of Stake Chophouse & Bar

There’s a place in heaven for a steakhouse that remakes chicken nuggets but uses Jidori instead of whatever glum bird is proffered in the children’s section. And then they top it with caviar. That, plus an editor with an obsession-level ranking of chai in Carlsbad, and a whole fish from one of San Diego’s OG top chefs who has mercifully returned to the kitchen. These are the very best things we’ve found from another month of eating professionally in San Diego. Go get some.

Stake Chophouse & Bar

Caviar Chicken Nugget

One of my favorite experiences at Stake in Coronado is that—if the patio is chilly enough to warrant heaters—they’ll surround you with towers of flame. Paired with the retaining wall of heat against the glass railing overlooking Orange Avenue, there is so much surrounding fire that it feels like dining in a much nicer version of the Elmo meme, in which the nasally puppet’s whole world has amusingly arsoned.

Three things you have to get here: first, the Wagyu popcorn (kernels popped in melted Wagyu beef fat, salted with paprika); second, the Snake River Farms Wagyu skirt steak (its Gold grade means incredibly high marble), one of the best steaks in the city; third, the Jidori chicken nuggets with herbed crème fraîche, pickle, and a perm of caviar. A childhood food, deliciously adulted. —Troy Johnson

Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen

Tri-Tip Sando

It’s been 15 years since married folk Aaron and Roddy Browning opened Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen in a hidden south Oceanside hovel—using vinyl records as placemats, the decor an assortment of welded metal weirdities. One thing has always remained: Pork is their native tongue.

This sandwich pries open long-dormant pleasure receptors in most alive human bodies. Brandt Beef tri-tip is rubbed with its “Pig Spice” (hint: good paprika and celery seed do wonders), sleeps for 24 hours, then is seared and rested for an hour—sliced and seared again, placed on a mini baguette wet with fresh chimichurri and smoked tomato aioli, then topped with melted aged provolone, grilled peppers, onions, and gremolata (parsley, garlic, lemon zest). Order two, or be prepared to fight. —Troy Johnson

Valentina

Pan Tomaquet

Pintxos are Basque-country bar snacks, finger foods for Real Sociedad games. The appropriate utensils are a couple of fingers and a toothpick. But Valentina’s in Leucadia are done with just enough culinary school ambition (not too much, fuss has no place in pintxos) from exec chef Enrique Ñol, who worked at the estimable Wrench & Rodent.

Its tomaquet (tomato bread) could be underestimated as a stacked pile of quality ingredients, but it’s undeniably great—toasted pan de cristal (light, airy, Catalan “glass bread”) dressed with tomato, garlic, salt, EVOO, and a layer of one of the world’s greatest meats: Cinco Jotas Iberian jamón. Eat it with a minor winefall of porrón, and ask for Todd—a certified sommelier and one of the most knowledgeable food minds in the local scene. —Troy Johnson

Ironside Fish & Oyster

Whole Fish

Get the whole fish. Doesn’t matter the catch, just trust that chef Jason McLeod’s got you. When CH Projects opened Ironside in Little Italy in 2014, the restaurant group took over the old Farkas furniture store and turned it into a replica of an ocean liner, tapping McLeod (a chef who’d earned two Michelin stars in Chicago) to oversee its menus.

It quickly became a San Diego staple for seafood. After leaving for a few years to help concept and launch some big-name restaurants in Vegas, McLeod is back again getting his hands dirty in the kitchen. And his fish? They come in fresh from local fishermen who he’s established relationships with over the years. So yeah, get the whole damn thing. —Nicolle Monico

Steady State Roasting

Indian Summer

I have a running spreadsheet of chai rankings in Carlsbad. The chai that stays on the highest shelf? Steady State’s gingery, nutmeggy Indian Summer with an almond milk base and fresh nutmeg shavings on top. Juiced ginger gives the drink deeper, warmer notes, but not so much spice that your throat closes on the first sip.

Too often, coffee shops advertise authentic chai, then uncork that carton of sugar-bomb concentrate from an artisanal wholesaler called Costco. This is the real deal; it’s mildly sweet, a little more spicy, and in my opinion, best served hot. If I could order a keg of it, I would. (Can I?) —Emma Veidt

Food & Drink JULY 8, 2026

Ina Garten Inspired This SD Baker to Open His Own Pop-Up

After a childhood obsession with the Barefoot Contessa and years in Michelin-starred kitchens, Juan Lopez is bringing Poppy Bakeshop to Liberty Station

Ina Garten Inspired This SD Baker to Open His Own Pop-Up
Courtesy of Poppy Bakeshop

It wasn’t his mother who inspired Juan Lopez to start baking. Nor was it pandemic boredom. It was Ina Garten. Lopez remembers it clearly—he was in third grade, watching TV at home in San Diego when the Food Network’s Barefoot Contessa appeared on the screen. She was in Paris, France, making profiteroles, which are essentially French cream puffs. He’d never seen them before. “That stuck with me forever,” Lopez says. 

Forever, or at least present day. It was enough inspiration for him to launch his own pop-up bakery this June: Poppy Bakeshop, which now appears every weekend from 7 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. (or sellout) at Moniker Coffee in Liberty Station. 

But let’s not fast-forward how he went from a third-grader to burgeoning bakery entrepreneur. After falling under Garten’s spell—I mean, who among us hasn’t at one point or another—Lopez decided to try his hand at making cookies, which proved equal parts satisfying (making something from scratch) and frustrating (not actually knowing what on Earth he was doing). But that itch never went away through high school, when he decided to pursue culinary school. But before enrolling, prospective students had to complete a six-month internship in a professional kitchen.

So Lopez went to the first French restaurant he ever visited—Cafe Chloe in East Village, where chef Katie Grebow took him under her wing. School didn’t pan out, but his education was just beginning.

In the early 2010s, San Diego’s culinary scene was still an afterthought on the national scale. Lopez recalls Grebow encouraging him to move to San Francisco to really hone his skills. “I was 18 and was like, ‘Well, I’ve got nothing else to do,’” he laughs. He walked into the one Michelin-starred La Folie in the Russian Hill neighborhood, resume in hand, and asked chef Roland Passot for a job. He started the next day.

After a few years in San Francisco, he returned to San Diego with the intention of moving out of restaurants and focusing on perfecting the foundations of pastry. After stints at Con Pane Rustic Breads, Herb & Wood, and Hommage Bakehouse, he landed at Wayfarer Bread & Pastry in 2023. 

The Bird Rock bakery was already well on its way to national acclaim—it was named one of the best 100 bakeries in America by Food & Wine Magazine in 2020, not to mention the Critic’s Pick for “Best Bakery” by San Diego Magazine in 2022, 2024, 2025, 2026, runner-up in 2023, critic’s pick and runner-up in 2021, and then I stopped counting (because I’m pretty sure we all get the picture). 

He still works part-time at Wayfarer while growing Poppy, but Lopez says he hopes to increase his pop-up schedule and collaborate more with other local makers. “The ultimate goal is to get a storefront,” he says. Normal Heights would be ideal, but he’s flexible on location and timeframe. 

One thing he’s not flexible on is boxing himself into one type of pastry or flavor profile. “I really want Poppy to be this overwhelming abundance of items with different colors and different textures… I don’t want to be known for one thing,” he says. French-inspired, Mexican-influenced, and yes, even taking cues from the fashion industry. Take his plum cornbread, for instance. It’s an homage to Belgian designer Dries Van Noten’s vibrant palette. 

“They had this one outfit that had this very, very bright kind of burgundy with this khaki-ish color. Then I went to the farmer’s market, and one of my favorite farmers, Heritage Family Farms, they had these gorgeous, gorgeous plums, and I was like, ‘Well, those are literally the color of that.’” The result? A sweet slice of rich reddish-purple plum cake. 

He also draws inspiration from his own family. Every year, he makes coffee cake for Mother’s Day. Cinnamon rolls for Christmas. Basically, anything and everything that makes it onto his shelves is “based on what I’m craving,” Lopez laughs. 

And he’s ready to share his cravings with you. “I’ve had so many bad days, and so many of them have been made better through pastry or through food,” he says. “I think as long as everyone just takes the time to just really enjoy what’s in front of them, that’s kind of all I hope for.”

Courtesy of Good Pressure Brewing

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

  • Partnering with Bay City Brewing Company and the Center for Plant Conservation (CPC), the ecologically-minded Good Pressure Brewing just brewed an American Wheat Beer using 100 percent California-grown barley to raise money for the plant preservation program. The 20bbl batch will be available at the Mission Gorge taproom the week of July 13, with a yet-to-be-announced release event featuring CPC reps on hand to talk about their efforts. That’s about as easy-drinking as a beer style can get, and with some plant power supporting the initiative, it’s a no-brainer to swing by. 
  • For as many coffee shops San Diego has, there’s only a small number of tea houses that really focus on a genuine tea experience. (We see you, Paru.) But Chagee Modern Teahouse just soft opened its first location in the county at Westfield UTC, which will be followed by a second location at the new Zion Market later this year. Based on early reports, paying a visit to the whole leaf milk tea maker just might be worth dealing with the new parking costs at the mall. 
  • Every summer break, around 240,000 K-12 students across San Diego County lose access to school-provided meals. That’s around half of the total number of students enrolled across the entire county, so yeah, it’s a problem. For the sixth year, Regents Pizzeria in La Jolla partnered with Feeding San Diego to launch the chunkily-named, but uber-generous “Dough-nate to Fuel for Summer” campaign. Following the “buy one, give one” model, the pizzeria will donate one meal to Feeding San Diego for every meal purchased through July, as well as matching any customer’s donations. I’m always happy to eat a slice of ‘za, but if I can make sure others can too, that tastes even better.

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Beth Demmon

About Beth Demmon

Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.

Partner Content JUNE 25, 2026

Summer Nights at SeaWorld San Diego

SeaWorld dazzles with a drone show, big-name entertainers, new animal adventures and more 

Summer Nights at SeaWorld San Diego

Nights are heating up at SeaWorld San Diego. The quintessential summertime staple on Mission Bay is transforming into a destination for unforgettable day-to-night adventures, bringing back some of its most popular Summer Nights programming and introducing exciting new experiences sure to delight both kids and adults alike. 

The 2026 Summer Day to Night at SeaWorld San Diego is the park’s most ambitious season yet. SeaWorld has planned a highly anticipated entertainment lineup that features nine weeks of throwback concerts featuring R&B and hip‑hop favorites from the ‘90s and early 2000s, including Jordin Sparks, Too $hort and Warren G, Ashanti, and an array of boy band heartthrobs performing together as part of the Pop 2000 Tour. 

New this season is perhaps the park’s most visible update: a nightly drone show, Ocean of Dreams, which illuminates the sky with hundreds of synchronized sparklers. Drones form sea otters, sharks, dolphins, and a majestic orca that tell a breathtaking 12-minute story of marine life and underwater ecosystems. The show culminates with a spectacular electric neon finale celebrating hope, wonder, and ocean stewardship.

Nighttime visitors are also in store for animal adventures that fuse education with high-energy fun and the dreamy ambiance of nighttime. The park has launched two all-new animal presentations: Shamu’s Celebration: Light Up the Night and Dolphins: Touch the Sky. Shamu’s Celebration: Light Up the Night features vibrant lighting, music, and dynamic choreography that celebrates the power and beauty of killer whales. Dolphins: Touch the Sky showcases playful bottlenose dolphins and the special connection between humans and the natural world. And back by popular demand is fan-favorite Sea Lions Tonite. See the charming pinnipeds splash, play, and parody pop culture in this refreshed crowd-pleaser. 

More must-sees: a newly reimagined Shark Encounter, one of the country’s more immersive exhibits highlighting 11 different species up close, SeaWorld’s beloved BMX Blast! stunt show, and high-seas escapade, Pirates Ahoy! The Battle for Mermaid Cove. And don’t miss the park’s all-new Deep Sea Disco, which encourages guests to dance the night away under the glow of the SkyTower, and vibrant closing time laser light display Laser Reef Summer Spectacular. 

Amp up the nighttime vibe with local craft beers, curated cocktails, and nostalgic theme park treats with $1 beer all summer long. SeaWorld is the place for day to night summer fun. When the sun goes down, SeaWorld lights up, and inspires guests of all ages to embrace their inner whimsy and see why generations of San Diegans head to SeaWorld to make memories they’ll never forget. 

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