The Odd Little Opera House in the Middle of Nowhere

A flat tire in a ghost town outside Death Valley. A sweaty nightmare for most travelers. But for Marta Becket, the beginning of a dream.

It was 1967. While her dusty tire was attended to, Becket wandered off to a dilapidated recreation hall nearby. Inside, she saw a stage caving in, walls covered in mud, and floors warped from flood damage, but as she peeked through the cracked door, the structure whispered to her. We could make magic together.

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When the allure of California called, Becket—a lifelong New Yorker who was then in her 40s—answered with a singular passion few have matched. An artist to the core, trained to dance, paint, and play piano, Becket cast aside her Broadway life and moved to Death Valley Junction (population: a handful), setting up shop in the squalor. The place had potential, after all, even if only she could see it. This project would be her opus.

Renting the theater for $45 a month, Becket paid for repairs and got to work painting an ornate mural depicting a permanent audience on the walls, with cherubs rejoicing on the ceiling. She changed the building’s name to the Amargosa Opera House and, in 1968, began performing original dances and acts for a few people at a time—or sometimes none at all. It wasn’t about fame, it was about freedom.

But fame came nonetheless. National Geographic wrote about her, as did Life. People were curious to see the ballerina in the desert. For more than four decades, Becket performed on her fixed-up stage, delighting and inspiring countless theater lovers willing to make the trek to nowhere.

Along the way, Becket became owner of the entire town, which she turned over to a nonprofit organization that now oversees Death Valley Junction, including the opera house and an adjoining hotel.

Becket would have turned 100 this year. Though she died in 2017, her legacy continues. Business operations took a hit during Covid, but the opera house still offers daily tours and hosts sporadic shows on that famous stage.

“Even if you’re not an artist, you have to appreciate what she was about,” Amargosa Board of Directors President Fred Conboy says. “She was a courageous and audacious woman. There’s nobody like Marta.”