How many American cities do you know that radiate an energy and cast a spell? A handful probably come to mind: New Orleans, New York, San Francisco.
But Tennessee Williams said beyond those few, every place else is just Cleveland, which is a category you may assume Denver, Colorado fits snugly into. However, Denver, I’ve found, if done right, packs a particular type of flavor that might make it more memorable than expected—you just need to put your walking boots on. Cleveland (much love) be damned.
The Populus Hotel, Denver’s newest architectural icon, is a solid jumping-off point for visitors. Modeled after Colorado’s iconic aspen trees, Populus is fetching outside and in with nature-inspired design woven throughout. With reclaimed beetle-kill wood in the main areas and mushroom-based fabrics hanging from lobby restaurant ceilings, it’s a forest-lover’s downtown dream, built with an eye toward ecological harmony. The hotel composts all food waste with an onsite biodigester, utilizes no single-use plastics, and claims to plant a tree for every night a guest stays. The room fobs are crafted from wood and given to guests in a square sleeve of handmade paper strewn with wildflower seeds for planting.
The king rooms are cozy but still new-feeling, clean, and—most importantly—comfortable. Almond-shaped windows frame curved, hammock-like padded benches (presumably for lounging, but lord only knows what the neighboring office buildings see). Outside, it’s all city views, with the Rocky Mountains in the distance. From up here, Denver vibrates.
The rooftop restaurant, Stellar Jay, is worth visiting whether you call a coast home or live nearby. Here, the specialty is open-flame cooking—meat mostly, but some veggie sides can be arranged. The fires in the open kitchen grow large, hypnotizing visitors with flares as tall as barstools. An aroma of campfire grill fills the air (and, disconcertingly, the upper floors of the hotel below). The restaurant sources local ingredients from regenerative farms, and the food arrives with a relaxed elegance that matches the space—farm-to-table, but without rubbing your face in it.
The local trout with pickled fingerling potatoes and fennel gremolata ($31) felt presidential. My wife and I don’t really eat pork, but when the chef sent out a bone-in pork chop ($41) with puréed parsnip, star anise, and radicchio agrodolce (an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce), we were surprised to find ourselves finishing the plate. The spicy carrots with cannellini beans ($16) and harissa and the sugar snap peas with tahini ($16) were worthy of a return trip.
The vibe up here: unexpectedly fabulous. One would not be far off to assume that— not unlike San Diego—Denver’s upscale restaurants see plenty of baseball hats, golf shirts, shorts, and yoga pants, alongside the occasional parking cone–orange Broncos jersey. But we saw more designer dresses than athleisure, which for Denver (or SD, for that matter) is saying something. A refined mood with a view where the food shines like the sun glinting off a ski run is nothing to take for granted.
Outside, Denver, with its oft-cited 300 days of sunshine a year, is walkable year-round. In spring through fall, the heart of Denver is best explored on foot (possibly with a coat and scarf for comfort). Walking a city is all about improvisation. Go where the green lights guide you; let the winds blow you where they may. As long as the coffee is hot and the beer is cold, you’re good. Denver, it turns out, is all about improvisation.
I like to start in Capitol Hill, full of countless classic bars, restaurants, and music venues, as well as Denver’s best museums. For this, Populus’ location is solid—you can cross a few streets and be in the artistic embraces of the architecturally wild and tremendously underrated Denver Art Museum or the Clyfford Still Museum (less cool architecturally but unbelievably cool inside), where American abstract expressionists’ paintings get the star treatment they deserve. If you’ve ever found yourself punched in the heart by a Rothko, then the Still may prove your mile-high cathedral. Even the nearby central library is fun to explore.
The Colorado State Capitol building is here (obviously), as well as one of the best food and drink spots in all of Denver: City o’ City, a coffee and booze diner where the area’s hipsters have long gone to work, eat, hang out, and drink carefully crafted stimulants and depressants. If you happen to be gluten-free or prefer a veg-forward meal, this is your Denver office.
From here, head down 16th Street, the walking-mall heart of downtown with an abundance of tourist shops, bars, and dispensaries. The restaurants on this strip are hit or miss, and so are the crowds, but you can still find solid vibes at the Appaloosa Grill, which spotlights live music every night of the week. Don’t miss The Yard milkshake bar for treats, and grab a Mission-style burrito (and queso) at Illegal Pete’s, a Colorado institution.
A free mall-ride shuttle runs the length of 16th Street, so if you want to give your feet a rest, this is the move. Either way, at the east end, you hit Lower Downtown (LoDo), where tons of restaurants are doing cool things and the shops get a touch less touristy and a bit more refined.
From here, you can head over a walking bridge across the South Platt River to Lower Highlands (LoHi), a residential neighborhood spoiled with great places to eat. El Five, a top-floor tapas and paella spot, offers killer views and food worth waiting for, if you can get a table. The coveted patio is next-level.
An alternative option: From LoDo, you can easily stroll north-ish to the historic neighborhood of Five Points, dubbed the River North Arts District (RiNo) by developers. RiNo is arguably the hottest ’hood in the city these days— think music, food, drinks, street art. Then add more music and more drinks.
If you happen to be in RiNo on a Wednesday night, you can plug into one of the best scenes in all of Denver at the underground bar Meadowlark. Here, an intimate outside back patio houses the Off the Cuff series, a weekly residency bringing local and national acts for extended improv jam sessions with host Eman Alexander (@namebackwardss). Alexander, a talented musician and Denver native, puts on these shows to highlight music from his city’s rich, multicultural community of artists. The crowd is mixed in age, ethnicity, fashion, and reverence for Chappell Roan. It’s a welcoming space for dates or meet-ups or to simply come through for music and dancing. And, unbelievably, it’s free.
“There’s a huge underground scene that’s happening, and it’s not really being talked about,” Alexander tells me when I hit him up later to discuss Denver’s unique, understated energy. “It’s psychedelic; it’s R&B, jazz. I expect to walk into a bar here and be like, ‘Oh, I’m gonna chill here, because the music is good.’ You can be listening to a live hip-hop band, and then you walk into another bar down the street, and they’re playing some bluegrass or folk, and they’re killing it, you know? There’s a real diversity here.”
Indeed, Denver is quietly popping off with music. The city’s legendary Mercury Cafe (LoDo) hosts Friday night jazz jams; Herb’s (LoDo) brings out some of the best underground talent in the city; Dazzle (downtown) leans hard into improvisational music in a true jazz club setting; Two Moons Music Hall (RiNo) features everything from bluegrass to neo-soul; and Gerard’s Pool Hall (RiNo) is a deep-cut venue for live acts. “That’s where I go on Thursdays when I’m trying to catch a vibe,” Alexander says.
Sure, this ain’t the Lower East Side; it’s not the French Quarter or the Marigny; it’s not the Mission. But the best thing about Denver is it’s not trying to be.
“There’s definitely something that’s bubbling,” Alexander says. “Once you see that all these amazing musicians live in Denver, you understand, Oh my god, this is so dope.”
So, get walking. A trip to Denver is what you make of it. It’s improv. It’s who you talk to and how many steps you’re willing to take to get where you really want to be.
Must-Visit Neighborhoods in Denver
16th Street
Stretching over a mile through the heart of downtown, 16th is Denver’s pedestrian-only promenade, with historic brick buildings, street performers, chess players, and restaurants galore. Some downtowns can be overwhelming. Denver’s is not. This is where you come to embrace being a tourist.
- Tattered Cover Bookstore: A Denver institution and memorable literary pit stop.
- Little Finch: For coffee, pastries, and cocktails. Get the shakshuka danish.
- Appaloosa Grill: Live music, plus bison burgers and local beer.
Lower Downtown
LoDo is one of the liveliest neighborhoods for late nights. Cobblestone streets and exposed brick buildings are now home to rooftop watering holes and the kinds of beer joints college kids flock to like mosquitos to a blue zapper. This is where you close down the bars and grab late-night eats.
- Union Station: Refurbished into a stunning hub with boutiques, bars, and Mercantile Dining & Provision, which offers a killer brunch from a James Beard Award–winning chef.
- Coors Field: Catch a Rockies game or just grab a local lager at The ViewHouse’s massive rooftop patio.
- Rockmount Ranch Wear: Colorado cowboy fashion. Snap up a snap-button Western shirt here.
River North
Once a warehouse district, RiNo is now Denver’s creative playground, a mecca for street art, small-batch breweries, and galleries that moonlight as secret music venues. Think hipster coffee and tons of great food options. This is where you come for the muse-like inspiration many travelers seek.
- Denver Central Market: An enjoyably curated food hall—try the sourdough grilled cheeses from Izzio or snag a cone from High Point Creamery.
- Improper City: Coffee, beer, food trucks, and an outdoor space made for groups.
- Denver Graffiti Tour: Bring your camera on a walk around the neighborhood, where Denver’s vibrant arts scene is everywhere you look.
Lower Highlands
Hip and homey, LoHi is full of Victorian houses, scenic walks, and some of the best food in the city. This is where to bring the fam.
PARTNER CONTENT
- Linger: Located in a former mortuary, this global small plates restaurant offers a rooftop patio with a bar made from a ’70s GMC RV and a repurposed food truck for a kitchen.
- Little Man Ice Cream: Shaped like a giant milk can and serving scoops worth the wait.
- My Brother’s Bar: Denver’s oldest bar. Beer, burgers, boots. Smells like history.
Capitol Hill
In CapHill, Denver gets weird in a good way—poets, punks, and politicos and historic mansions, dive bars, and high art. This is where you’ll find your new favorite kombucha flavor or decide to quit your 9-to-5 to become an abstract sculptor.
- Molly Brown House Museum: The heroine of the Titanic is remembered in a lovingly preserved Victorian.
- Hudson Hill: Craft cocktails and coffee in a lush, light-and-plant-filled setting.
- Wax Trax Records: A shrine to music nerds and one of the greatest vinyl shops this side of Cleveland.
