The best food in San Diego is often not found in a restaurant.
That doesn’t mean it’s hard to find—look for a sidewalk grill set up in front of a bar, ask your neighbor what those delicious smells wafting into your yard are, or check out the temporary restaurant within an existing restaurant. Pop-ups are popping up all over the place, redefining the very nature of how—and where—we eat, and it’s never been more exciting.
These sorts of transitory eateries can act as a creative outlet for someone with a 9–5 job or serve as an homage to one’s ancestral heritage. In Binondo’s case, it’s a chance for friends who work in world-class kitchens to stretch their own creative muscles every once in a while.
The partners behind Binondo, Justin Karolak and Alan Goco, first met working at Menya Ultra, the Michelin-recommended ramen joint known for its rich signature tonkotsu broth and springy handmade noodles. They both still work in high-end restaurants—Karolak is at Le Coq and Goco is at Animae, two Puffer Malarkey restaurants under the purview of 2025 James Beard Award finalist for Best Chef: California, Tara Monsod—and ended up being roommates. They started exploring San Diego’s more under-the-radar eateries and cooking together on their days off, melding their heritages (Goco is Filipino, and Karolak is Taiwanese) in a culinary exploration of both.
They hadn’t planned on doing any sort of formal pop-up until during one of their regular visits to Tambayan, a Filipino-American restaurant in Spring Valley. The owner there suggested they give it a try. “We kind of just jumped on that opportunity,” Goco says. “I felt like Tambayan aligned with our goals of being a small business … [and] trying to do something different.”
Their first pop-up mixed Filipino food with Italian cuisine, riffing on popular comfort food items to create takes like beef mechado mozzarella sticks, a tortang talong parmesan sandwich, and Filipino lasagna (which in itself is already a twist on Filipino spaghetti, made with sweet banana ketchup and hot dogs). The name Binondo refers to an area in Manila, Philippines that serves as the city’s Chinatown. It’s ground zero for all sorts of fusion food, Karolak explains—so it’s the perfect name for their own spin on different cuisines. “The mixture of culture that Binondo represents is apt for what we’re doing,” he says.
The next pop-up is scheduled for Saturday, May 17 starting at 10 a.m. at Kubo Coffee in Barrio Logan. Karolak says they wanted to match the coffee shop vibe, offering more morning items like pastries and sandwiches. “We’re doing a ricotta mascarpone whipped toast with peach mango jam on top,” he promises, as an ode to Jolibee’s peach mango pie. Other dishes include a miso-cured lox bagel and a Hainanese-style chicken salad sandwich, plus a few other surprises. “We can’t help but inject some kind of Asian flair into it,” he jokes.
Binondo is just getting started, and the duo isn’t yet sure where it will go. “I think we want to take this as far as it can, really,” Goco says. But until they have a clearer direction, they’re both happy to keep learning from the best.
“Tara is amazing,” Karolak says. “We’re just gonna cherish those valuable moments and teaching lessons at these places, and hopefully turn the Binondo thing into [something that’s] just ours.”
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
Brisa Breezes Into Little Italy This April
Restaurateurs Vincenzo Loverso (of Romanissimo) and chef Marco Provino (Allegro, RustiCucina) hope their latest venture brings a breath of fresh air to Little Italy—literally. Brisa, meaning “breeze” in Spanish, is now open in the former Zinqué space 2101 Kettner Blvd.
The menu offers Latin American fusion dishes that range from sushi rolls and salads to shared plates like a riff on elote, lump crab and nopal tostadas, and skewers made with Wagyu picanha steak. Entrees mix elements of coastal Californian favorites (scallops and locally caught fish) with Latin American–inspired flavors (like housemade mole rojo and chimichurri) for nightly dinner service, plus weekend brunch.
Manager and co-owner Jennifer Reinhart is spearheading the cocktail program with a tropical-inspired tiki program heavy on island vibes. I’ve got my eye on the Guava Lava with jalapeño-infused tequila, guava purée, suze liqueur, and fresh lime. She’s concocting some NA options, as well, like the refreshing-sounding Coco No-jito with coconut purée, fresh lime juice, mint, and sparkling water.
Beth’s Bites
- Part of the reason I love the Padres is that Petco Park’s food options are insane. I tend to be a creature of habit, snagging a Friar Frank to go with a Swingin’ Friar Ale from Ballast Point, but the fact that I can now get actual oysters from Drew Deckman means I may have to elevate my baseball munchie game.
- In today’s strange bedfellows of food news, Le Creuset is hosting a secret supper in San Diego on October 16. The one-night only event promises “some of the country’s most accomplished chefs, providing an immersive dining experience,” which sounds vague, yet intriguing. Want more details? Me too. Sign up for Secret Supper’s list to get ’em.
- One door closed in Normal Heights, but a new door is opening in Hillcrest for Dark Horse Coffee Roasters. The 11-year-old local roaster already has locations in the airport, North Park, South Park, Golden Hill, La Mesa, Chula Vista, Truckee, Kauai, and a new spot in Normal Heights a block away from the original location, and it will take over the former HOB Coffee spot in Hillcrest next to Trust later this year. Do I detect the possibility of a revamped espresso martini?
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
