Every latchkey kid who survived a decade or so on Totino’s pizza rolls and Hot Pockets needs to head to Juniper & Ivy. One of the best restaurants in town just made a tiny, chef’s-pride version of the iconic suburbia snacks. Jim Gaffigan, your table’s ready.
They’re technically gnocco frito. But, for emotional reasons, pizza rolls and pockets.
It’s part of the restaurant’s new thing, Juni—a revamped bar and lounge area into its own kind of lounge and bistro, still perched above the main J&I show. An everyday, living room version of J&I for neighbors and tire-kickers, with statement furniture, wines-by-the-sip machines, and its own five-star snacks menu, priced like it’s the ’80s and inflation hasn’t been invented yet.
We’ll get to that below, and what I’d order, but first, a note about emo chairs.
There are chairs made from scratchy, colorful sweaters worn by someone who loved lots of things but nothing as much as Death Cab for Cutie. New banquettes near the window have such high backs that they create a whole other, sun-spilled room without having to put up a wall and curse contractors who treat deadlines like irrational wishes.
The high-tops overlooking the industrial–art house dining room are gone. In their place is one long, tufted lounge nook colored aquamarine, recalling the Miami drug scene we all romanticize, when everyone had khaki skin and abs and a thousand dollars of jungle pharma in their flowy pants pockets. Or it looks like a very soft Jordan almond, giving off more of a come-one, drape-all vibe.
Part of J&I’s wow has always been the unshy statement pieces. Like that giant, shiny graffiti pear lording in the middle, emitting subway-tunnel-to-table energy. Or the giant Lichtensteins of what appears to be a topaz-haired Katy Perry shedding a tear. Now, these Death Cab sweater chairs.
As for the menu (see below), start with those pizza rolls. Five whole bucks (three during “pre-shift,” 5 to 6 p.m., when it’s two dollars off every item). Apparently, owner Michael Rosen went to Italy and was Jabberwockied by gnocco frito, the famed puffed fry bread from Emilia-Romagna. He pestered chefs Jon Sloan and Alex Penkin to figure it out. And so they tinkered and tinkered and came to this, stuffing it with a mousse of goat cheese, ricotta, and nduja (Calabria’s addictive, spreadable pork sausage). It’s topped with a paper-thin, spicy Calabrese salami; a little lemon zest; light Parmesan snow; and the kicker: EVOO spiced with oregano and peppers for that pizza-joint perfume.
The Perfect Order at Juni
Octopus and Shrimp Ceviche ($11, $9 during pre-shift)
Why order a michelada and a ceviche when you can order a michelada ceviche? Chef de cuisine Penkin grew up in Chula Vista with its grade-A Mexican street food and salsa beers. This is his riff on that good life. Top-notch octopus and shrimp, tossed with stone fruit, baby heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, and a gussied–up michelada sauce: Clamato, worcestershire, and—the key that gives it character and depth—guajillo pepper puree. Blue corn tortilla chips for the scoop.
Elotes Arancini ($6, $4 during pre-shift)
Penkin’s been with J&I since the beginning (after a stint at Searsucker). The only break he took was to work on Colorado’s famed corn farm Olathe Sweet Corn. So this dish—a riff on the fried Italian risotto ball—mixes his Mexican street-food roots and his chef-on-farm quest. He chars some raw corn, sautées some more, and uses Parmesan and Cotija cheese as a binder, then makes a stock using the corn bones (where all that starch is) for depth. It’s served with chile-lime mayo, spicy salsa macha oil, pickled jalapeño, and Tajin.
Wagyu Sliders ($10, $8 during Pre-Shift)
Taster versions of a J&I classic. Wagyu beef; house burger sauce (animal style on chef ’roids); and, most importantly, onions caramelized in beef tallow. (Tallow is the MSG of the fat world.) Then there’s American cheese, pickles, and a sesame bun. They come two per order, which is about the amount of a regular burger.
Choco Taco ($13, $11 during Pre-Shift)
This is pastry chef Amanda Santiago’s take on the premium ice cream truck item that your fancy kid friends would order on allowance day. Housemade waffles are folded and filled with pistachio ice cream, coated with milk chocolate and chopped pistachios, and served over chocolate crumble. Let it sit for a few, then eat it when it’s a little melty.
Juni is open now.
