Marta is a labor of love for Denise Arellano, and one that’s been a longtime coming.
“For the past 10 years, I feel like this is something I’ve wanted to do,” she explains. Growing up in border towns like Calexico and Mexicali, her family owned small Mexican grocery stores going back three generations, which inspired her early-onset love of food. After graduating from Point Loma Nazarene University, she moved to New York for culinary school and worked under chef Kyle Knall (Gramercy Tavern) at Maysville and James Beard nominee Caroline Schiff (Gage & Tollner).
Once she moved back to San Diego, Arellano worked in all sorts of roles across hospitality to get a comprehensive view of the industry—PR, social media, baking bread for coffee shops, and eventually landing a hybrid role at Michelin-starred Valle. There, she worked on the line under chef Roberto Alcocer, and handled some marketing and PR.
Photo Credit: Paola Niebla Marta owner Denise Arellano
Experience gathered, she decided it was her time. Named for her paternal grandmother, Marta launches this summer in the place long home to beloved coffee shop, Twiggs.
Arellano will start slow by offering a traditional espresso menu along with matcha, as well as pastries and baked goods like cardamom and chocolate conchas, Cochinitos (piloncillo-spiced, pig-shaped cookies prevalent in Mexican pan dulce traditions), heart-shaped Orejas (called palmiers in French), and plenty of croissants.
“As time progresses, we will definitely have more,” she promises.
Phase two will add a light breakfast and lunch menu, with tortas, salads, quiches, and other dishes drawn from her grandmother’s recipe box. She points to a few lesser known but sentimental items in border cuisine, like ensalada casino. It’s similar to a Caesar salad (which itself was invented in a different border town), with dressing made of blue cheese, Tabasco, salsa Maggi, “and a few other things,” she explains. “If you grew up in Mexicali, you just know it.”
Photo Credit: Paola Niebla
To keep the cozy vibe of her grandmother’s house, Arellano is completely redoing the space, adding elements like modern green tiles and custom ceramics from San Diego and Los Angeles makers. She hopes to eventually add more pieces of barro verde, a traditional Oaxacan ceramic tradition with a glossy green glaze finish.
Arellano’s goal is to redefine people’s expectations of what Mexican food and drink can be, and to bring back a beloved gathering space the community lost when Twiggs closed.
“It’s really cool to see how San Diego is now embracing Mexican food in just different levels and different spaces,” she says. “It’s just exciting to just continue in the space that was just so iconic before and still kind of continue it, of what it used to be and is—a community hub for people in the area.”
Marta is opening this summer at 2804 Adams Avenue.
Courtesy of Balboa Park
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
Beth’s Bites
Gilbert Castellanos is a local treasure. The jazz trumpeter has been professionally jammin’ since he was 11 years old and is arguably the most influential jazz musician to ever come out of San Diego (he’s played with Dizzy Gillespie, Quincy Jones, Wynton Marsalis, Diana Krall, you name it). He’s hosted his legendary jam session for 30 years, and come October, he’ll celebrate 10 years at Panama 66 at the San Diego Museum of Art. P66 owner Jeff Motch says they plan to throw a month-long celebration to toast to this treasure of music, so keep an eye on the upcoming events to mark the occasion.
After unexpectedly closing in February, the former Little Italy Food Hall is transforming the prime location in Piazza della Famiglia into a yet-to-be-named culinary concept by Tiger Hospitality. The group (which is also behind Cosmos Burger, La Vida at Windmill Food Hall, and Lobster Lab) will reimagine the venue as a “European piazza-inspired atmosphere” with new restaurants, an indoor/outdoor bar, special events, live cooking demos, etc. The revamped plaza should open later this year.
Everything I know about European futbol (or American soccer) I learned from Ted Lasso, including what the Champions League is. If you don’t know, it’s a huge deal. If you did already know, you will very likely be interested to learn that on May 31 starting at 11 a.m., Brewery X on Harbor Island will show the UEFA Champions League Final between PSG and Inter Milan. The brewery will be slinging French- and Italian-inspired food and drink specials all day, and the showdown starts at noon Pacific, so post up early for Negronis and French 75s.
Gaslamp Quarter has a new watering hole—The Bar at the Beau. The restored 19th century building was once home to an actual speakeasy during Prohibition, and owner Cathy Herrick tapped executive chef Robin James from Top of the Market to join director of food and beverage Brandi Evans to create an elevated comfort food menu available for breakfast, lunch, happy hour, and dinner. Turn-of-the-century cocktails meet contemporary twists at the bar, and yes, I’m interested in its espresso martini.
Imperial Beach is getting a little tastier with two new restaurants opening at Pier South Resort this week. Sammy’s Woodfired Pizza and Roppongi Asian Bistro both open on Friday, May 23, replacing Toasted Gastrobrunch. Roppongi will serve dinner only, while Sammy’s is an all-day eatery (both open seven days a week), and yes, there will be barbecue chicken pizza.
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Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
