Edit ModuleShow Tags

Best Things I Ate This Month: September 2018

Lemon pepper wings at Cross Street Chicken and Beer, walnut pesto gnocchi at Ulivo, and soft-shell crab at Himitsu​


Lemon Pepper Wings @ Cross Street Chicken and Beer

I really like Cross Street Chicken, and I have some serious problems with it (you can read my full review here). It’s a sunny, friendly box serving Korean fried chicken and craft beers. It’s got a nice patio. It’s also maddening. But the chicken is very good. Korean fried chicken is so good because they fry it twice, making the skin crack like glass. The lemon pepper variety may sound boring, but it’s excellent, salty and tangy and savory with the herb and spice blend they dust on it. I would’ve tried far more flavors. Read that full review to understand why I just simply couldn’t.

4403 Convoy Street, Clairemont


Walnut Pesto Gnocchi @ Ulivo

Ocean Beach is wildly, amazingly provincial, one of the last great beach towns in America where locals go out of their way to support local businesses. One of the longtime standards is Olive Tree Marketplace, which sells sammies and snacks and wine and stuff. Next door they’ve opened this Italian restaurant, and while the Michelin guide won’t make a special trip to hang a star on it, I’ve eaten there twice now and been pleasantly surprised both times. Sit on their patio and try this dish, pillowy potato dumplings in a creamy walnut-basil pesto. Gnocchi’s tricky, because it can turn dense, like eating sandbags. But Ulivo’s are nice and fluffy.

1776 Sunset Cliffs Boulevard, Ocean Beach


Soft-Shell Crab @ Himitsu

For next month’s issue, I’m reviewing Himitsu, a little sushi restaurant opened by a longtime protégé of Master Ota (of Sushi Ota fame). The best thing to do here is sit at the bar and order the omakase, where chef Mitsu Aihara just serves piece after piece of his day’s freshest catch. For the side dishes, this soft-shell crab was phenomenal, lightly fried and served perched in a warm, delicious broth. Order this along with their wasabi Caesar salad and there’s not a much better lunch to be had in town.

1030 Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla

Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Related Stories

Finding Craft Beer in Portugal

A recent trip abroad proves that the craft beer movement has taken hold nearly everywhere

San Diego Rep’s Tragicomic ‘Fun Home’ is Growing Up at Its Most Awkward and Beautiful

See a weekend show if possible—the Tony Award–winning musical may be too much emotion to handle on a work night

'Hamilton' Star Leslie Odom, Jr. Brings the House Down at The Salk Institute’s Symphony Gala

Plus Sharp HospiceCare’s annual regatta brings in $400,000, local foster kids get a back-to-school boost, and more
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Subscribe to the Blog

Edit ModuleShow Tags

SD Food News

The hottest thing in San Diego food right now just might be Tijuana.

About This Blog

Restaurant reviews, food trends, top cocktails, wine, beer and generally the best eats and drinks in San Diego, by Food Editor and general good guy Troy Johnson.

Recent Posts

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags


Ten Pet Friendly Palm Springs Restaurants

Ten Pet Friendly Palm Springs Restaurants

AquaVie: 10 Reasons It’s Downtown’s Best Kept Secret

The best workout and spa getaway around? It’s actually right underneath your nose.
Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags