Besides a stint playing college football in Nebraska, Darrien Oliver has lived in San Diego his entire life. “I grew up in Spring Valley, went to Rancho [Elementary], La Mesa Middle, then went to Helix [Charter High School],” he says. Growing up in the area, he laughs and says he definitely remembers partying at Effin’s Pub & Grill back in the day.
To him, and many other locals, Effin’s was more than just a local sports bar—it was a community staple from 1996 until it closed due to the pandemic in late 2020. So last summer, when he started looking for a place to open his own bar and grill, he couldn’t believe it was still available. “It’s such a prime location,” he says. “I know what the space can do and what it can do for the community.” He called the broker and signed a lease for The Mesa Bar & Grill last month.
The Mesa will be the first restaurant Oliver owns, but he’s been a general manager at plenty of establishments for years. His first job was working as a security guard at Tin Roof downtown, where he worked his way up to bartender, assistant general manager, and finally general manager. Then, Covid-19 hit. But Oliver decided to keep honing his skills behind the bar and behind the desk, learning to run things at different Tin Roof locations from Kansas City, Missouri to Fayetteville, Arkansas. Once his second child was on the way, he decided to move back to San Diego permanently and started to look for new GM positions.
Courtesy of Google Maps
After talking to his mentor, Mauricio Cardoza (who owns a few downtown concepts like Cielo Rooftop Lounge, National Lampoon: The Yellow Door, and Year Of The Fortune Chinese restaurant), he decided to take the plunge and try to open his own spot. He’s shooting to open The Mesa this May, hopefully around Cinco de Mayo or Memorial Day.
“The concept I’m trying to build there is what I like to call a modern social bar and restaurant,” Oliver explains. “Drinks will be affordable, food will be great and affordable, [I’m] just trying to revitalize the space.” The Mesa will have a full liquor license with 18 beers on tap and plenty of entertainment, like DJs, trivia, karaoke, and more. Food will skew towards typical bar fare—think burgers, salads, wings, and the like. “But everything’s going to be from scratch, for the most part,” he promises.
He plans to open for lunch every day, staying open until midnight on weekdays and until 2 a.m. on weekends, plus weekend brunch. Most importantly, he says, while he wants everyone to feel welcome, he’s specifically looking forward to relaunching a space for people who live nearby. “It’s real dear to me, being from the area,” he says. “It’s just gonna be exciting to tell people, like, ‘Hey, we’re back.’”
Courtesy of Sabor Piri-Piri
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
From the Farmers Market to National City—Sabor Piri-Piri Now Open
If you, like me, have ever had one of Candido Gadaga’s samosas or hot sauce at a local farmers market, you’ve probably been counting down the days until he opened a brick-and-mortar version of Sabor Piri-Piri, his Mozambique-inspired food stand serving specialties like chicken peanut curry bowls, black eyed peas and kale, matapa (savory sauteed collard greens in a coconut-peanut sauce), and his signature piri-piri hot sauce. Now, our wait is over. Gadaga’s first permanent location is now open at 804 B Avenue in National City next to 8th & B Poke with all the same farmers market favorites, and hopefully with a stationary kitchen, a few more things in the future. But honestly, even if I just get the samosas for the rest of my life, I’ll be set.
Photo Credit: Cole Novak MAKE Projects
Beth’s Bites
San Diegans are spoiled with an embarrassment of riches when it comes to incredible Mexican food. And for as devoted as I remain to my local taco shop, I do enjoy a fancy taco every now and again, and when the urge strikes, it’s often Puesto. Now, joining the already ridiculously talented drinks team of Beau du Bois (vice president of bar & spirits) and brewmaster Doug Hasker is creative chef Raul Casillas. Coming from Michelin-starred kitchens like Valle in Oceanside and L’atelier in Las Vegas, Casillas plans to redo the Puesto menu with items like a CDMX ribeye taco for the meat lovers, an asparagus taco for the veggie lovers, bluefin tuna ceviche for the seafood lovers, and a whole bunch more. All the yes.
North Park’s MAKE Projects is gearing up to move from University Avenue to a brand-new space at 4712 Felton Street for more room, more education, and more good stuff coming. They plan to break ground for the new location this summer, and I’m definitely keeping an eye on the exciting stuff they’re up to.
Lots of things are happening at The Lodge at Torrey Pines (and yes, most of them are bougie). Besides A.R. Valentien finally reopening next month, the resort’s annual Celebrate the Craft on April 27 is one of the toniest tastings in town, with chefs from Valle, 31ThirtyOne, George’s at the Cove, Nine-Ten, Trust, and more gathering alongside local vintners, brewers, distillers, and creations of all scrumptious sorts. All proceeds go to The Ecology Center, so sip and savor to your heart’s delight
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
