After 11 years, two locations, and myriad construction delays, chef Phillip Esteban’s dream is finally coming true. San Diego Mag’s “Chef of the Year, 2020” is soft-opening his California-style deli Wildflour Delicatessen at the end of the month with the grand opening planned for March 7.
The San Diego born-and-raised chef has pedigree—starting at David Chang’s Momofuku in NYC, then coming home at Cork & Craft, then R&D chef of CH Projects. He opened his own thing with casual Filipino spot White Rice during the pandemic, dabbled in Japanese with Weapon Ramen. But he’s been sketching this full-service, big-dream restaurant for over a decade.
Esteban always envisioned creating an all-day escape—basically, where he would want to hang out at any given point during the day. Wildflour is that, but with the luxury (and inconvenience) of being 11 years in the making. So his vision has matured and adapted to current food culture (tinned fish is having a moment, to be sure.)
Plus, it gave him time to assemble an A-team. Esteban is exec chef, with chef de cuisine Kareine Elecanal (former pastry chef at Animae and Herringbone), beverage director Will Pidd (ex-Bottlecraft and Stone Brewing), bar manager Johnny Alejo as bar manager, Jocelyn Farinas on coffee service, and Paco Sanchez as GM.
All-day means breakfast, so they’ll start with a full coffee program from Provecho Coffee in Barrio Logan, fresh-baked breads, pastries, and small plates like steak tartare and eggs on toast. Lunch is cheese boards, cured meats, and sandwiches (classics like mortadella on focaccia, but Esteban will lean into coastal Spain, approachable lunch wines, and bites to share). All the menus, especially dinner, are plant heavy. “I love vegetables—we should eat healthy!” says Esteban.
Seafood and meat will be from local and sustainable producers such as Thompson Heritage Ranch—like braised octopus with confit fingerling potatoes, olive oil, and Espelette pepper; Thompson’s famous pork; whole grilled fish with chermoula; and spatchcock chicken with za’atar and piri-piri sauce. Most plates are meant to be shared. And kids aren’t just welcomed, but catered to.
“We do actually have a children’s menu that’s not just haphazardly put together,” he assures me. “Someone like myself that has a family, I want to see kids in there all the time.”
At a reasonable 4,200-square-feet, Wildflour feels massive with most of the seating outdoors on the front patio (fits 72), an indoor banquette dining area (48), the bar (another 12), plus a deli counter for to-go options, coffee bar, small shop, and shared courtyard with Carruth Cellars. It’s designed by Arch5 Design Studio (Glass Box in Del Mar, Cherryfish in Pacific Beach). The small shop sells a collection of their curated goods and provisions—tinned fish, salt cures, jams, herbs, small snacks.
Esteban’s particularly geeked about their pine needle picnic baskets made in Tijuana, which guests can bring to refill with the rotating meal of the week, plus wine, plates, and cutlery for two. Liberty Station is one giant picnic and park space on the water, so getting a roast chicken and bottle of natural wine on a Saturday feels right.
Back to the vibes. The airy and contemporary design nods to the rich history of the location, utilizing different shades of blue as an homage to Liberty Station’s naval history. Formerly the Naval Training Center (NTC), the area was the jumping-off point for thousands of Navy recruits from 1923 until closing in 1997. His own father went to boot camp there, and Esteban himself went through ROTC on-site as well. Being able to fulfill his longtime dream at this particular location led him to look back at his own chef’s journey.
“[In my] 20s, it was really about just learning as much as I can,” says Esteban. “Thirties were about building myself as a chef. Now, in my 40s, it’s like you’ve, quote-unquote, attained these goals. What are the next benchmarks?”
It’s been a lot to bite off, he admits. But worth it, he says. “It’s a long time coming. I want to create this and have this space be here for future generations.”
Wildflour Delicatessen opens February 2025 (2690 Historic Decatur Rd., Liberty Station) and will be open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
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