Tucked into a gentle slope beneath Presidio Hill and overlooking the former mouth of the San Diego River, Old Town is where the city began. Here, some of San Diego’s oldest streets wind through a state park and spill into blocks brimming with festive shops, tucked-away courtyards, and local-favorite restaurants.
Yes, there are museums, margaritas, and plenty of Mexican food, including a pozole from Casa de Freds that will “warm your soul,” says Old Town San Diego Chamber of Commerce Executive Director Alex Ward. But, while those alone are all worth the trip, Old Town is more than a place to begrudgingly rub elbows with tourists. It’s a layered, living neighborhood where history hums through weathered walls and discovery waits around many corners.
Photo Credit: Ariana Drehsler Melissa and Taylor Anglin at their Old Town shop, The Nest Tattoo.
“There’s plenty of reasons for locals to visit,” says Nest Tattoo owner Melissa Anglin—including a convenient trolley stop and free parking.
Old Town really is old: The Kumeyaay people lived along the San Diego River for at least 10,000 years before the Spanish arrived in 1769, setting up camp near the village of Kosa’aay. Prominent Californios built adobes at the base of Presidio Hill in the late 1700s; the center of San Diego was there until development at “New Town” in the late 1860s moved downtown to its current location.
The state park system preserved those dusty old adobes in 1968 as “the birthplace of California.” In the 1970s, the “mother of Old Town,” Diane Powers, opened Bazaar Del Mundo, and with it came the colorful, folksy vibe that, like it or not, still defines San Diego for visitors from around the world.
Photo Credit: Ariana Drehsler
Old Town San Diego Facts
Now a museum, Old Town’s infamous Whaley House—known as America’s most haunted home—was once San Diego’s county courthouse and the city’s first commercial theater.
A young Phil Mickelson polished his putt-putting at Presidio Hills in the 1970s, before his father built him a practice course.
Zillow reports that the average Old Town home value is about $1.1 million.
Twiggs Street has a new “pollinator pathway” featuring native plants to help increase biodiversity in the neighborhood.
The pro shop at Presidio Hills Golf Course is Casa de Carillo, the oldest surviving residence in San Diego, which dates to 1821. 1950s TV actor Leo Carrillo descended from the family that built it.
Photo Credit: Ariana Drehsler The nearly 200-year-old Cosmopolitan Hotel was once an adobe mansion hosting wild dance parties.
Things to Do in Old Town
In 2018, Melissa Anglin and her husband Taylor brought The Nest Tattoo to life inside a cozy 1920s bungalow on Congress Street, adding a creative spark to Old Town’s historic soul. A few years later, they moved into an apartment just up the hill on San Diego Avenue.
Anglin’s favorite reset is a run to the top of Heritage Park, where the city unfurls below in a patchwork of history and bay views. After, she’ll visit her business neighbors at Encuentro Cafe for “really tasty” breakfast, she says—do not miss La de Mano (a sweet corn pancake filled with Venezuelan cheese) or the grilled arepas (kind of like a giant English muffin made of corn and stuffed with goodies such as eggs and chorizo). The best quick lunch (between inks) is a hot dog or a torta at Que Sazón on Harney Street. “It’s the only place in Old Town I would get agua fresca,” Anglin advises.
Locals have options for dinner or date night. “Jack & Giulio’s is the place for red tablecloths and excellent service, where they treat you so nice,” Anglin says, suggesting that diners order any of the housemade pastas. Home & Away is a sports bar with a great burger, and it’s open for a late-night bite—rare in Old Town. Bring your dog and sit out on the patio when it’s warm.
If you’re into spirits (both the imbibable and the paranormal), get a reservation at Oculto 477—a private mixology experience for two, within haunting distance of El Campo Santo Cemetery. Anglin recommends Rose’s Tasting Room as another place where locals can feel brand new in their own town. A casual setting where guests can learn about local wines, it’s “a lovely, personal, magical experience with a cozy vibe,” she says.
Prolong those good vibes with crystal shopping at the “friendly and approachable” South American Imports, Anglin adds. The showroom with an extensive collection of geological gifts has been in Old Town for 40 years—even longer than its stalwart neighbor Cafe Coyote.
Every summer, Anglin sips a cup of raspberry drinking chocolate at small-batch candy maker Nibble, inside Fiesta de Reyes.
Photo Credit: Ariana Drehsler
What’s Next for Old Town
Old Town is getting some new (yet old) accommodations: Rumor has it the Hacienda Hotel’s buyers are planning a renovation. And, soon, you’ll be able to secure a night’s stay in some of Heritage Park’s charming (but possibly haunted) Victorians. “I’m sure they’ll be booked solid by ghost hunters,” Ward says.
However, some institutions are saying goodbye. Cygnet Theater Company is ending its residency at Old Town Theater, heading for new digs at Liberty Station. While the state-owned theater goes dark and figures out its next big thing, which could take up to two years, Ward says, keep an eye out for potential happenings in that space.
Post-pandemic, Ward is excited to see more locally focused businesses moving into the neighborhood alongside tourist-centric establishments. “Lower- than-average rents,” he explains, are part of the draw, along with reliable foot traffic and transit proximity. Nest Tattoo is one example; so is Garden Coffee—where you can buy plants, sip lattes, and study or chat at a cozy table.
On the edge of Old Town, a major change is coming: NAVWAR—the WWII military airplane assembly plant on Pacific Highway that later housed Naval Warfare Systems Command—could soon be developed into hotels, housing, shops, parks, and restaurants, plus a trolley stop. Local activists are hoping to prevent Old Town’s views of Point Loma and the harbor from becoming a shiny glass skyline.
Photo Credit: Ariana Drehsler La de Mano at Encuentro Cafe.
