
Featured articles
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
Featured articles
Features
Features
Features
Featured articles
Things to Do
Everything SD
Everything SD
Featured articles
podcast-ep
podcast-ep
podcast-ep
Featured articles
Features
Features
Features
Featured articles
Food & Drink
Partner content
Food & Drink
Ready to know more about San Diego?
SubscribeReady to know more about San Diego?
Here's how our city kicks the City of Angels' sorry (surgically enhanced) butt
LA confidential: San Diego is the better burgh! Heading into baseball season, it’s time for a little bragging and boasting. All in good fun, of course. We’ve got a lot that the City of Angels hath not. Here are 22 reasons why we kick LA’s sorry (surgically enhanced) butt. And traffic is just the start.
Southern California is widely considered “earthquake country,” but if you really want to split hairs (or tectonic plates) it’s Los Angeles that’s at greater risk for the Big One. LA has more fault lines than anywhere else in the state, and is within 35 miles of the southern segment of the San Andreas Fault, which seismologists say is capable of a deadly magnitude 8 earthquake.
San Diego County’s Office of Emergency Services says our region has “sparse seismicity” compared to its Southern California neighbors. Sure, San Diego gets some small earthquakes and would likely feel the rumbles of a big LA quake, but experts don’t think it would be the epicenter. San Diego’s own Rose Canyon Fault is considered the only major active earthquake fault in the urban San Diego region, but it hasn’t given us a good shake in at least 200 years.
—Jennifer McEntee
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Photo by Kit Leong / Shutterstock
Price of a Padres ticket behind home plate
Price of a Dodgers ticket behind home plate
Two hundred million dollars will buy you a couple things. An island in the Bahamas. A presidential inauguration. Add $27 million, and you could even have the 2016 LA Dodgers.
The San Diego Padres opened last year spending $99 million on their players. The Dodgers had the highest payroll in baseball at $227,329,905.
The Dodgers were like that youth soccer team from the good part of town who hires Pele to coach their six-year-olds, and resuscitates Sun Tzu to teach them the art of war. Of course that team is going to whup the kids whose parents have failed to drive cars fueled by gold and saffron.
So the Dodgers bought—excuse me, won—the division. At this point, is it about baseball anymore?
I have, at times, wished the Padres would spend bazillions of dollars and bring a World Series to San Diego. But now I take pride in the fact that when—it’s not an if, it’s a when—the Padres manage to take the title, it will be with a scrappy team of underpaid players who won by raw talent, sheer will, and magic.
Yes, the Padres are the Bad News Bears. And when it finally happens, the payoff will be that much sweeter. You can buy greatness, or you can make it. One of those is expected, and one of those is memorable.
—Troy Johnson
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
I could have lived in LA. When I relocated from Virginia, my employer said I could go anywhere they had an office. LA was their top market, and I was working on a (really bad) screenplay. LA made sense.
But that’s not what I did. Los Angeles was overwhelming: traffic, pollution, aggression, masses of people. LA was less a place to love than to endure. San Diego seemed more manageable. I was visiting a friend in OB, and there was something about the way the light hit the water off the pier. It just felt like home.
That was 25 years ago, and that decision gets validated frequently, particularly in my work. I write about biotech—translating the science into English. I can’t imagine a better place to ply my craft.
Most people think of San Diego as a tourist mecca or a military town, but my lens is biology. I think about the stretch from UCSD to Sorrento Mesa: Salk, TSRI, Sanford Burnham Prebys, Illumina, and hundreds of small companies trying to move genius ideas to market—a target-rich environment.
There are actually more life sciences professionals in LA County than San Diego, but it’s kind of a misleading statistic. Many work for just one company, Amgen. San Diego’s biotech community is more distributed.
In fact, San Diego has something LA wants: a life sciences startup culture. The LA County Board of Supervisors recently earmarked $3 million for LA BioMed, a bioscience incubator. They’re sick of seeing their young entrepreneurs flee to San Diego and the Bay Area. Who can blame them?
That’s what makes San Diego such a vibrant life sciences community—so many clever people willing to risk everything on an idea. Edico Genome is developing hardware and software to accelerate genomic diagnoses. Organovo is 3-D printing liver and kidney tissue to advance drug discovery. Tocagen is developing a gene therapy to treat the most deadly brain tumors.
Some people lament that San Diego doesn’t have a big biotech to anchor the cluster, like an Amgen or a Genentech (now part of Roche), but I think that fits the city’s personality. We’re smaller, more agile, quicker to the prize. We have a community of serial entrepreneurs who develop a therapy, sell it to one of the big guys, and reinvest the proceeds into a brand-new idea.
I don’t have the nerve for that sort of risk, but I love talking to people who do. Living in San Diego, I never have to look hard to find them.
—Josh Baxt
â
Most of the cities on either side of the nearly-2,000-mile US-Mexico border aren’t even worth a pit stop. (We’re looking at you, Antelope Wells.) In our case, we have two dynamic cities straddling la frontera, which means double the fun.
Tijuana’s reputation as the street taco capital of the world is old news: between Telefónica Gastropark and Taco Alley, there’s a truck or stand for everyone. What’s newer is the city’s finer dining delights: stalwart Misión 19 still churns out inventive Mexican cuisine, Oryx Capital has a delicious suckling pig and Verde y Crema is a paradise for locavores. Drinkers will enjoy the multitude of craft beer tasting rooms, like at Insurgente and Border Psycho, as well as the craft cocktails at Nórtico, Oryx Capital’s speakeasy.
Galleries like La Caja Galeria are hosting some of Mexico’s most esteemed artists, like Tijuana native Jaime Ruiz Otis, who uses recycled materials from foreign factories, or maquiladoras, for his pieces. Design stores are popping up everywhere, too: Object stocks only Mexican makers, and Casa Duhagón, featuring designs from its principal, who is also an architect, is a decorator’s dream. Speaking of design, Tijuana’s first boutique hotel, One Bunk TJ, is set to open on Avenida Revolución. In it, there are a handful of smartly outfitted rooms and a pop-up store from Object.
There’s also Cross Border Xpress, which opened in late 2015. For just $16 each way, you can skip the border and Tijuana traffic, park in the United States, and access the Tijuana International Airport via footbridge, opening up a world of lower-cost flights. To date, 1.3 million passengers have done so. International travel doesn’t get any easier. Take that, LAX!
—Jackie Bryant
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Photo by Blake Midnight
While LA might make movies about the military, we are the military. San Diego is the birthplace of naval aviation, the home of the real Top Gun flight school, and the training center for all Navy SEALs. We breed real-life heroes, not actors who play them on TV.
—Kimberly Cunningham
Within two weeks of living in Los Angeles, I paid over $200 in parking tickets. I lived there for almost five years before coming to my senses and moving back to SD. It’s true: Nobody walks in LA. But if more people did, they could avoid some of these issues:
Holy guacamole!
San Diego County is the leading producer of avocados in the US, according to the San Diego County Farm Bureau. In fact, 40 percent of all avocados grown in California come from our region.
Fallbrook is hailed as the “Avocado Capital of the World,” and hosts a free avocado festival each April with an annual attendance of more than 100,000 people taking in avocado-themed art, a guacamole cook-off, food vendors with delights like avocado gelato, and even a “best-decorated avocado” contest.
—Jennifer McEntee
â
“There are more agents in LA, but they are, like the town itself, TV- and movie-focused, so I’d much prefer to be agenting books from San Diego, an ever-waking giant. On the edge of America, bordering Mexico and the Pacific, we can see beyond the confines of the New York publishing maze and focus on our authors, who are based in California and the world beyond. The bottom line is, once you make your mark, phone calls are returned, so why not live in America’s Finest City?”
—Legendary literary agent Sandra Dijkstra, on choosing to live and work in San Diego
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Sure, LA is on the short list to host the 2024 Olympics. But without us, there would be no tri in the Summer Games. The first-ever triathlon took place on Fiesta Island in 1974. San Diegans Jack Johnstone and Don Shanahan conceived, directed, and participated in the race they coined “triathlon,” a term Johnstone spelled out for the trophy maker since it didn’t yet exist in the dictionary. You’re welcome, world.
—Christine Pasalo
â
If you want to enjoy a pint of beer or a glass of wine right where they are made, LA County is a bit of a beverage desert: It’s distinctly lacking in local breweries, wineries, and vineyards.
San Diegans are especially lucky from a fermented beverage standpoint: We have an astounding variety of choices that are not only easily accessible, but also world-class in terms of quality.
On the beer front, San Diego currently boasts more than 130 breweries, spread out across the county. We have brewers as far north as Fallbrook and Oceanside, as far east as Alpine and Julian, and we have seven breweries just between Chula Vista, El Cajon, and Santee. Not to mention about a dozen brewpubs in North Park alone.
LA County has 26 breweries—one of which is Pabst—most of which are in the hard-to-reach downtown area. By comparison, we’ve got 26 breweries just within the stretch from Oceanside to San Marcos.
Of course, if you want to talk about the quality of beer produced, there’s little doubt that San Diego outshines not only Los Angeles, but most every other county in the nation.
Dozens of our breweries have won major medals at the biggest national and international beer competitions; last year San Diego won 32 medals at the World Beer Cup and Great American Beer Festival alone, and Karl Strauss was crowned 2016 Mid-Size Brewing Company and Mid-Size Brewer of the Year by the latter.
Don’t get us wrong, LA breweries are—by and large—excellent in terms of quality, but San Diego has gone beyond just quality; it has actually created its own unique style of beer. The now-famous “San Diego style” started with turbocharged IPAs that were super-hoppy, big, bold, and bitter. That approach soon spread to other styles of beer—including pale ales, pilsners, and Belgian styles—and is now emulated by breweries around the world, including in LA.
Prefer reds and whites? There are 115 wineries in San Diego County and they—much like our breweries—can be found in every corner of the region. Los Angeles County has 25–30 active wineries open to the public, but we have 35 in our central inland area alone (between Escondido and Ramona), including Domaine Artefact, Highland Hills, and Milagro. If nature flares up your allergies, we’ve got urban wineries, too, like Vinavanti or LJ Crafted.
Chalk it up to San Diego having more distinct wine-friendly microclimates than any other county in the US, resulting in more than 60 vinifera varietals—everything from France’s Bordeaux and Rhône to Italy’s Tuscan and Piedmont and Spain’s Rioja—not to mention the old classics from right here in California, like primitivo and petite sirah.
Wherever you may be in San Diego County—you can most often get to a brewery or winery in less than 20 minutes. And where does 20 minutes in LA get you? I think you already know the answer to that one.
—Bruce Glassman
San Diego knows Mexican food like only a community this close to the Tijuana border could.It makes sense. San Diego is the birthplace of the Roberto’s Taco Shop chain, a 24-hour fast-casual eatery that knows its way around a carne asada burrito. Founded in 1964, there are 14 Roberto’s in San Diego today, and hundreds of worthy ’bertos imitators, from Adalberto’s to Juanberto’s to Rigoberto’s. The closest Angelenos can get to an actual Roberto’s Taco Shop? Mission Viejo. In Orange County. Lo siento, amigos al norte.
—Jennifer McEntee
â
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Not only have Mexican food outposts flourished in San Diego since the 1920s, but we expanded the menu, introducing a drink and two dishes to the rest of the nation.
Frozen Margarita
Back in 1947, bartender Albert Hernandez Sr. (who passed away in 2006) invented the frozen margarita at La Plaza, a Mexican restaurant once located in Bird Rock.
Hernandez’s take was an adaptation of the margarita served at Rancho La Gloria, the Baja restaurant often considered the cocktail’s birthplace. Instead of serving the drink on the rocks, Hernandez combined Jose Cuervo Gold tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, and ice in a blender. Made by the pitcher, the slushy margs were served in salt-rimmed glasses adorned with a lime wedge.
California Burrito
Yep, that wonderful forearm-size frankenfood in which french fries share top billing with carne asada, salsa fresca, cheese, and guacamole. It’s an affront to the cold-pressed juice lifestyle and we’re okay with that.
Granted, its origin story lacks detail. According to Gustavo Arellano, a leading historian of Mexican American food, it was first sold in the 1980s by the ’bertos chain, the San Diego family taco shop operation that began with Roberto’s and includes Alberto’s, Filiberto’s, and others. But no one can recall which ’berto invented it, nor the specific year it was first sold.
Still, two points are incontestable: french-fry-filled burritos didn’t exist in the US before they appeared in San Diego, and fries make everything better.
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Fish Taco
San Diego State alum Ralph Rubio introduced America to fish tacos in 1983. His flagship? A converted Orange Julius walk-up stand on Mission Bay Drive dubbed “Rubio’s Fish Tacos.”
The business idea was inspired by surf trips he’d taken to San Felipe during college, when he and fellow Aztecs fueled their pursuit of swells with the prized Baja street food.
Today, the first brick-and-mortar Rubio’s, which sits on the spot of the walk-up, is just one of 201 restaurants operating in California, Nevada, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and Florida.
His surf days are behind him, for now. “I still have all of my boards,” Rubio says. “I need to sell a few more fish tacos before I can ‘retire’ and paddle out again.”
—Christine Pasalo
So the Chargers have left us. I won’t say good riddance, because I died inside. The Chargers were a bridge between me and my father. The Chargers were better than church.
But I will say this: poor Los Angeles.
The Chargers have gone to a city that has proven unable to keep a football team. The Raiders left. The Rams left (and returned). The Chargers left (they started there in 1960). Los Angeles loves cheekbones more than it loves football.
There’s a reason why football doesn’t work in Los Angeles. First of all, in order to navigate LA traffic, you’d have to leave on a Thursday to make the kickoff at a Sunday game. Second, traffic is awful. Third, traffic is bad.
No one will go. The “selfie value” just doesn’t pan out.
And now LA has two teams—the Rams and the Chargers. The Rams have the richest owner in football. The Chargers don’t. Who do you think is going to spend the money to brand the team and win over the hearts of Angelenos?
The Chargers are now the bridesmaid, not the bride, to a town that doesn’t care. They are the microscopic fish in a big pond.
Trust me, San Diego, when I say that we’re better off. We can take a few years spending that money on things that matter—education, infrastructure, fraudulent city contracts—and then invest in a team with an owner who has the clout and passion to actually compete.
San Diego Super Chargers, no more. In Los Angeles, they are the San Diego Superfluous Chargers.
—Troy Johnson
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
San Diego has the 12th-best park system among the largest 100 American cities according to The Trust for Public Land (TPL), the national nonprofit that advocates for the creation and improvement of parks. Los Angeles didn’t even place in the top 60.
Because parks make up so much of our city area (nearly 40,000 acres), they’re less people-dense than, say, those in LA. According to ParkScore, TPL’s rating system, 30 San Diegans are served per park acre, compared to 100 in LA. Less crowding means better access to playgrounds, recreation centers, and basketball courts.
Also, more of us live within one mile of a public park than someone living in LA, and when parks are plentiful and nearby, they improve a city’s quality of life: Studies have shown that people living in or near green areas experience a 12-percent lower mortality rate.
This year will see upgrades to existing playgrounds in park-deficient communities, such as Chollas Lake and Larsen Field, and the completion of new skate parks in Linda Vista and City Heights, thanks to the department’s pursuit of federal and state funding.
—Christine Pasalo
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Of San Diego County’s 4,526 square miles, one-third of our county is public land available for recreational use and all is accessible within a two-hour drive. Add to that the 2,000 species of plants, including the rare Torrey pines, and San Diego really is still wild. San Diego’s jagged topography lends itself to a rich and varied landscape—we have the largest biodiversity of any county in the US–and while sunny and 73 degrees might seem like a constant, our highest and lowest temperatures have been recorded at 122 F in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park’s rugged badlands and a chilly minus 4 F in the pine-shadowed canyons of Cuyamaca Rancho State Park.
More than 500 species of bird have been recorded by the San Diego Audubon Society, at least 23 of which are endemic to this region. Look for the light-footed clapper rail and Belding’s Savannah sparrow at the Tijuana Estuary, then visit the mountain town of Julian to see frenetic white-naped pygmy nuthatches creep up oaks and rare white-headed woodpeckers bore holes in a pine snag.
But birds aren’t the only animals here—San Diego is also home to 742 species of mammals, which includes the endangered peninsular bighorn sheep, found on the foothills surrounding Borrego Springs, or the jumpy Stephens’ kangaroo rat.
—Jade Belzberg
â
Since 2009, the county has taken in 23,094 refugees from 34 countries, according to data compiled from the U.S. Department of State. That’s more than any other region in California, making us a leader in the state’s effort to shelter people forced to flee their home countries due to violence and persecution.
—Christine Pasalo
â
Los Angeles has an amazing restaurant scene. I’m not going to tell you different. To say San Diego has more options than LA is to admit lunacy.
What I will tell you is: San Diego’s restaurant scene is better.
San Diego has more small farms than any county in America. And if I’ve learned anything as a food writer, it’s that small farm food tastes a hell of a lot better than big farm food. It’s the difference between Coors Light and craft beer. The fewer things you focus on, the better those things are. Period. A pretty basic law of life.
LA has great big farms. That’s nice. San Diego has great small farms. That’s better.
Food tastes best the very second it is pulled from its source. Every second after that, it slowly descends into mediocrity and eventual spoil (not to mention it starts to bleed nutrients).
To test this theory, taste a ripe tomato as soon as it’s plucked from the vine. Hosannah! It tastes like an actual tomato. Sweet, acidic, perfect. It tastes like the tomato your grandmother swore tomatoes tasted like, and why she complains every time you cook. Now taste that same tomato three hours later. Still good. But less good.
“Farm-to-table” is an abused word. A lot of BS. Hell, fast food gets their produce from a farm somewhere.
But San Diego is by far the country’s truest “farm-to-table” mecca. Our 6,600-or-so small farms deliver the world’s best produce to our chefs in the shortest amount of time.
Chino Farm? The one that helped make Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck famous? It’s not in Beverly Hills. It’s here.
Admittedly, Santa Monica had the first great farmers’ market in Southern California. But those days are over. Now, San Diego’s farmers’ markets are the greatest thing in not only SoCal, but the globe.
Our chefs are cooking with this produce. Los Angeles is cooking with it, too—just a couple hours or days later.
San Diego also has an ocean as its border. Groundbreaking studies have revealed fresh seafood to be desirable. Due to soul-sucking traffic, seafood takes longer to get where it’s going in LA. Nothing kills the quality of your restaurant meal quite like rush hour on the 405.
San Diego also has a Mexico, which is growing some of the best produce, olive oil, and wine in the Americas. Sure, Los Angeles can get some of that action, but only after a few hours in a hot truck. Congratulations on second place, Los Angeles.
On top of it all, LA lives and dies by trends—and trends are meant to die. With four million residents, a new restaurant opens up every six seconds or so. And with every restaurant that opens in LA, a formerly trendy restaurant closes. You may be thinking there are too many restaurants opening in San Diego—and there are—but LA is 10 times worse.
Instead of hopping from one trendy restaurant to the next, San Diego diners repeatedly visit their favorites. That repeat business helps restaurateurs, and they use that money and experience to get better. A lot better. Longevity breeds excellence.
So San Diego has the freshest produce and seafood of any big city in the world. Our restaurants tend to last longer, which yields better food. Sorry, LA. We’ll send you the food we don’t use.
—Troy Johnson
We asked Angelenos who defected to San Diego what they miss (and don’t miss) about life in La La Land.
Don’t get us wrong. Tinseltown ain’t all bad. Here’s a few imports that SD could benefit from…
22 Reasons Why San Diego Is Better Than LA
Illustrations by Edmon de Haro (who lives in Spain)
Artists and advocates are building a more sustainable creative future through public funding, political organization, and cross-border collaboration
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.
We’ve been here before.
In 2012, city funding for the arts and culture in San Diego had eroded. As a corrective, the city council unanimously approved “Penny for the Arts”—a promise to dedicate roughly one penny of every dollar spent on hotel rooms (the Transient Occupancy Tax, or TOT).
The logic was fair and sound: Cultural institutions and events help attract visitors. Those visitors pay hotel taxes. So, the people agreed, some of that hotel-tax revenue should go back into maintaining the cultural ecosystem that helps bring those visitors and that money.
Projected as a five-year plan, the measure was supposed to increase funding to $17.9 million by 2017.
It never did. The penny was never guaranteed, so each year the city used part of it for other priorities. By 2023, the money going to arts and culture was up to about a half a penny. Even as TOT revenue has gone up significantly.
In 2019, TOT revenue was $245 million.
In 2025: $325 million.
One fix would be to guarantee the penny. Not simple, given San Diego’s financial woes. But the alternative—eroding the culture that makes San Diego San Diego, give it its identity—also doesn’t feel wise. Plus, even a locked percentage still rises and falls with tourism, which is why culture advocates want a guaranteed floor on top of it.
Another solution would be to give the arts commission actual authority.
“It’s an advisory body,” says arts commissioner Kamaal Martin. “You’d be hard-pressed to find anybody who takes our advice.”

He described the commissioners debating real, consequential questions this year, like whether and how to divide the cuts between funding pools. But those conversations “don’t connect to whoever’s actually deciding,” Martin says. “We haven’t been entrusted with decision-making about relevant things nearly enough.”
Christine Martinez is building political infrastructure through her organization Arts+Culture:San Diego—which is starting a 501(c)(4) lobbying structure not unlike police and fire unions. Martinez is also keeping her community actively engaged. “We won’t be caught off guard next year like we were this year,” she tells me.
Then there’s the evergreen issue of affordability and accessibility. Kiplinger’s most recent report ranks San Diego as the 11th most expensive city in the US, based on cost of living. The average home value is $980,700 (the US median is $540,000), but San Diego’s median household income is only one-third greater than the national level. Rent is also 66 percent higher than the national average ($2,716 vs. $1,636).
This is why San Diego has long suffered from the creative brain drain—creatives leaving for more affordable cities. “Artists are free to live wherever they want, and they will go where the rent is affordable,” says Jennifer de Poyen of Space 4 Art. “When they leave, they take their gifts with them, and their contributions, and their economic impact.”
One saving grace is the presence of Tijuana, where the cost of living is about 60 percent lower than San Diego, per Numbeo. Tijuana has long functioned as an affordable neighborhood for many in San Diego’s creative culture. It’s part of the reason why the binational identity is such a constant in our galleries, music, theater, murals, and culture. While that cross-border blood flow is one of San Diego’s most compelling attributes, few artists living that life would call it convenient or easy. A city is at a disadvantage when its culture creators have to cross a border to go home at night, and cross again the next morning to work.
In May, San Diego County Board of Supervisors approved a $2.75 million arts initiative of its own. It includes an Artist Space Grant Program aimed directly at the affordability crisis, as well as an artist-in-residence program, a dedicated Binational Creative Economy Investment, and a one-time investment in the Black Arts and Culture District in Encanto.
Bob Lehman of San Diego Art Matters has been doing county-level, binational organizing for years; in 2023, he helped get the county’s arts commission reestablished after 30 years of defunctness. That’s important because it gives arts and culture an official seat in county government, advising the County Board of Supervisors on arts and culture policy. He also brought in consultant Laura Zucker, who ran LA County’s arts program for three decades, to build a real regional plan.
“I really believe we’ll have something set up here that other communities come and look at,” he told me. “A national template other cities come to learn from.”
When asked who decides which artists will get the new grant money, county arts commissioner and executive director of the Chicano Park Museum and Cultural Center Monica Delgadillo Hernandez doesn’t hedge.
“That’s part of the infrastructure we’re going to be building,” she says. “What should a panel of reviewers look like? Should it be the commissioners? Should it be other folks? A supervisor?” She was just as candid that the commission itself doesn’t reflect San Diego’s population—Chicano communities are roughly a third of the city, she tells me, “and that’s not represented at the table yet.”

The great news is that none of these solutions have to be invented from scratch. Numerous cities serve as examples of what’s possible—if we have the will.
Jonathon Glus—Prebys Foundation Senior Fellow for Art & Design, the Executive Director of the Art + Design District, and board president for California for the Arts—worked in Houston before coming to San Diego. The Texas city dedicates 74.5 percent of its hotel tax to arts grants by formula, and that support is guaranteed. Washington, DC locked in dedicated arts funding in 2019. Salt Lake City, my hometown, has run a voter-approved arts tax for almost 30 years, most recently reauthorized through 2034. And just this summer, New York City pushed cultural funding to a record $323.8 million, even incorporating an emergency fund.
Denver’s model is interesting because instead of a city-dependent funding model, theirs is a 0.1 percent regional sales tax. In place since 1988 and renewed by voters three times, their Scientific & Cultural Facilities District has distributed between $54 million and $85 million to arts, culture, and scientific orgs—each of the last 12 years.
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.
None of these cities got there by accident. They decided, on purpose, that arts and culture were worth protecting from politics—and, in some cases, worth building an entire identity around.
“That’s how Miami has flipped the switch,” says Glus. “People go to Miami for culture as much as they do the beach.”
San Diego has spent decades selling itself backward: Beach and weather first, culture as an afterthought you might stumble into. Glus would love to see the strategy flipped: Visitors should come for the art, “and then, by the way, you’re on the beach.”

“I do think it was a wake-up call for the community,” de Poyen says of the budget fight. “People understand that our funding is vulnerable. It was a lesson in how much power people have when they coalesce. But wow, is it painful.”
Glus says he’s genuinely optimistic. “The players have all changed seats, but the work is moving forward.”
“I believe optimism is a moral duty,” says Martin, who’s both power-fist and polite.
In eight months, there will be another budget fight. Everyone I talked to expects it will be worse. But something happened this spring that can’t be undone.
“I hope this rupture has brought us together in a moment of self-realization,” says Leticia Gomez Franco of the Balboa Art Conservation Center. “I hope we stop being so transactional; we begin to see ourselves and each other as partners in this work.”
That’s the whole ask, really. And it’s on all of us.
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act III. See Act I and Act II here.
Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.
The history, communities, and creative movements behind a cultural scene that extends far beyond the city’s postcard image
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act II. See Act I and Act III here.
Without concrete, wildflowers are just weeds. Any honest history of San Diego art and culture is tension and its reckonings. It begins before the name existed, with the Kumeyaay. It must pass through the Panama-California Exposition, one hell of a county fair that conjured Balboa Park as our grand cultural stage. It pays tribute to the lights of La Jolla, where the donor pool helped realize unrealizable things. It should mention names like Marston, Scripps, Ochoa, DeWitt, Lopez, Klauber, Baldessari, Torres… so many.
In short spaces like this, long histories like that become roll calls. So this is more of a walk through pressure points, notes on recurring forces and regional oddities.
Border life is key to understanding the here of here. Art without dialogue is just decoration. At its best, that dialogue should be a tad muddy, emotionally gassed. In other words, it should be in need of art—to widen perspective, parse meaning, see the unseen.
San Diego’s central dialogue—the magic and the stressor—is being flatmates with Mexico’s second-largest city by population. That makes San Diego a swing-gate of shared and vastly different perspectives, both its own place and something larger. And in no other major city in the US do the fresh flow of ideas from two countries—different governments, laws, mores, expressions, arts, cultures, traditions, economies, loves, and resentments—mingle at such a constant daily rate (due respect to El Paso).
That binational steam created Chicano Park, one of the most uniquely San Diegan contributions to national and international culture. When construction of the I-5 and Coronado Bridge divided Logan Heights, neighbors protested by transmuting prejudicial concrete into redwoods of Chicano art. Turning a civic wound into a beautiful and enduring landmark that expressed and preserved a core identity—like East Side Gallery in Berlin or Constitution Hill in Johannesburg—is damn near the core of what art is supposed to do.
Like any city, the underground-overground friction is crucial in San Diego. Our culture is headlined by institutions that lift creative work onto national and international stages: MCASD, The Nat, SDMA, Centro Cultural de la Raza, the Symphony, WorldBeat Center, The Old Globe, La Jolla Playhouse, Mingei, Museum of Us, Stuart Collection, Timken, ICA, Comic-Con, etc. The next mutations grow in the seams: street murals, music dives, tattoo shops, wheatpasted walls, graffiti, lowriders, surf and skate art (though in San Diego, this is mainstream), pop-up shows, backyard shows, beach raves, any place with room for people and a loose relationship with regulations.

Both art and culture get their power from power. They’re fundamentally a conversation with and retort against dominant structures. San Diego’s most pervasive structure is arguably the most rigid form: the military. Its presence is heavy in the southern tip (Border Patrol), the middle (Navy and MCAS Miramar), and northern edge (Camp Pendleton). The military is San Diego’s largest employer, by a long shot.
Within this plus-sized environment of order and hierarchy, it’s understandable that Shepard Fairey’s “OBEY” posters in the late ’90s struck such a potent chord. The most compelling punk rock is often outside a strong governor’s window. (The “OBEY” series featured an ominous, propaganda-style André the Giant wheatpasted on random ugly surfaces across San Diego—launching Fairey’s style that he eventually used for Obama’s “HOPE” poster.)
Armed forces are often viewed as the absence of creative culture—understandably so, since rogue individual expression feels like a pretty sure way to sink a war effort.
But in San Diego, the Navy’s unsuspecting role as art creator—directly or indirectly—is hard to ignore. Tattoos are a dawn-of-time practice of many early cultures, including the Kumeyaay. But Polynesia was a core realm. Sailors were exposed to it on deployment in the Pacific Rim, inking their arms with the names of loved ones and unit insignia. Back in San Diego, they’d flaunt those tats in the beaches and bars of Mission Beach or PB (Marines did the same in Oceanside.) Enlistees were the muscular flesh galleries that helped turn skin art into one of the city’s most widespread modern art forms.
During WWII, the military also trained huge legions of San Diego laborers how to build war machines. Those mechanics, engineers, machinists, welders, painters, and metal fabricators used those skills for creative good in their neighborhoods—especially in custom car culture, which took off in the post-war ’50s and ’60s. Mexican-American vets helped develop the lowrider scene, a deeply rooted part of San Diego creative expression. Galleries on slow-moving wheels.
Tourism is the other mainstream force ripe for creating against. It is both critical to San Diego’s economy, and one of the greatest barriers to deeper, more nuanced expressions of what and who San Diego is. The industry of selling our city to passers-through creates a gigantic tarp of cultural tropes. It reinforces the most obvious charms—cute zoo animal takes in an epic sunset with a giant margarita—and doesn’t yield much airspace to the thrilling micro-cultures that live and breathe where locals live and breathe. Nothing against watercolors of dolphins, but much against the hegemony of watercolors of dolphins.
Maybe because of these dominant forces, San Diegans especially tend to force underground and institutional art into a needless cage match. It’s human instinct to champion the underdog as more worthy, but that has always felt like a form of articide.

It’s like saying the only good food is made by gritty upstarts who crafted their own whisks from discarded shopping carts. Most of those plucky whisk-makers would love to eventually be paid properly, would love a stage, a grant, a building, a donor, a lighting rig, health insurance, maybe even one chair that doesn’t threaten the spine.
That’s what the major institutions do. Both stages—the duct-taped and the donored—serve vital roles and deserve commensurate support if we care about the entire lifespan of creative expression and not just its first exciting steps. Championing the starving artist exclusively just secures an enduring poverty for the creative class at large.
I’ve often theorized it’s harder to create great art and culture in cities like San Diego, where the climate is supernaturally pleasant. In colder/hotter/rainier/less beautiful cities, people are forced indoors to fabricate their own beauty (the grunge music of Seattle, the obscene creative output of Reykjavík). San Diego’s eternally mild sunshine tends to make the human body our art medium of choice. But scratch the surface of that surf poster (and I’ve only scratched a miniscule percent here), and this city’s far from the cultural shallows it gets accused of being.
Addendum: A Personal Agenda. In scouting the route of art and culture across San Diego county through history, two areas come up again and again: La Jolla and Barrio Logan. So I propose a collaboration between two icons of artful concrete—Chicano Park and Salk Institute (one of the world’s great examples of brutalism architecture). Let Barrio Logan’s muralists go nuts on that coastal science fortress, unite the realms for a moment in time.
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act II. See Act I and Act III here.
Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.
The city’s cultural sector regained millions after a proposed 85 percent cut, yet nonprofits, youth programs and major institutions still face painful losses
This is part of a three-part series. This is Act I. See Act II and Act III here.
Every spring, Christine Martinez reaches out to the arts community to explain what’s on the line, hoping they’ll engage with the city’s budget process. Cultural funding, she constantly reminds, is almost always strapped to the guillotine. Especially in a city strapped for cash.
“It’s not an easy ask,” says Martinez, manager of Arts+Culture:San Diego. “Showing up is a real cost for small, volunteer-run groups that can’t spare half a day at City Council without possibly having to close their doors.”
Then, last April—with one day’s notice to arts leaders—Mayor Todd Gloria proposed a budget that didn’t trim arts funding; it eviscerated it, from $13.8 million to $2 million. An 85 percent slash. Other city departments faced cuts of about 7 percent.
The scheduled date of the cuts was just three months away (beginning of the fiscal year). Organizational leaders have to plan months if not years ahead to run their organizations. They had made hires, dedicated spending, and programmed their seasons based on a reasonable expectation that support for the arts would be somewhat in line with previous years. (The City has allotted at least $7 million a year to arts every year for the last 20 years, and the last four years have ranged between $13.8 and $18.2 million.)
The day felt even more existential given the national and international climate around the arts: namely, the federal government’s repeated proposal to eliminate the country’s two biggest cultural foundations (NEA and NEH), and the global trend of AI replacing more costly human creatives.
“It shocked everybody,” says Kamaal Martin, arts commissioner and co-founder of Art Power Equity. “If the message had been, ‘Times are tough, everybody tighten their belts a little,’ it would have landed differently. But there was no vision offered for the future, no parity in the cut. It was just, essentially, ‘Fuck you.’”
Among things I’m good at—sleeping late, low bidding for expensive shoes on Poshmark, parallel parking on either side of the street—budget analysis isn’t among them. In trying to understand how bad the finances were for San Diego to propose this drastic cut, I found myself drowning in numbers, pie charts, and politi-speak.
In his April 27 newsletter, Gloria explained that balancing the budget means “asking hard questions about every single dollar this city spends: Is this a core responsibility of city government, or is it something we do when we can afford to?”
Fair enough—if he were to ask those hard questions about every single dollar this city spends. It also makes his conclusion clear: The City of San Diego does not view supporting arts and culture as a core responsibility.
Which begs more than a few questions: Should the City be responsible? If not, then who? How crucial are arts and culture to a city? And since this is a budget discussion, how much revenue does the arts and culture industry generate for San Diego? What’s the ROI?

$1.2 billion.
That’s how much economic activity San Diego’s arts and culture nonprofits generated in 2022, according to the City’s latest Arts & Economic Prosperity 6 report. The industry created nearly 17,000 jobs and generated $878 million of personal income for local residents. About 15 percent of the people showing up to arts events in San Diego are tourists, so money was raised through TOT (Transit Occupancy Tax). The activity generated $275.7 million in tax revenue to the city.
In other words, the ROI seems to be ROI-ing.
Still, there have been signs that cuts were coming. In 2025, the City demoted the Department of Cultural Affairs to a division, folding it into the Economic Development Department (EDD). That meant Cultural Affairs no longer had independence, nor its own leader sitting at the same organizational level as departments like parks and recreation, library, police, and fire. It lost institutional leverage and would now have to compete with other EDD priorities—real estate, airport operations, business development, etc.—for budget allocation.
To be clear, few arts administrators and leaders I spoke with are interested in the either/or false choice of funding law enforcement or after-school programs; the fire departments or libraries. They’re sincere in looking for solutions that don’t leave any single group with a greater burden of righting a long-out-of-balance budget.
Jennifer de Poyen, executive director of Space 4 Art, says Gloria had long been a supporter of the arts, which made his attempted Red Wedding especially upsetting.
Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.
ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.
Ask most people what UC San Diego is known for, and the arts may not be the first answer. Yet this fall, San Diegans can watch Ghostbusters with a live orchestra, try their hand at glassmaking and wander among more than 20 works of public art woven throughout the university’s La Jolla campus.
ArtsConnect brings those experiences into view, helping residents discover what they can see, hear and create at UC San Diego while experiencing the campus in a new way.

“The arts are at the heart of UC San Diego’s student-centered mission and vision,” says Alysson Satterlund, Vice Chancellor for Student Affairs and Campus Life. “Whether creating, participating in, or experiencing performances, the arts are essential to a healthy and truly fun Triton student experience.”
That invitation often begins where the arts intersect with other fields.
“Some of the most innovative work and discovery happen where disciplines don’t usually share a stage,” says Cristina Della Coletta, Dean of the UC San Diego School of Arts and Humanities. “So through our unique intersection of the arts with science, technology, and medicine, we are improving lives, physically and emotionally.
Take The Inaudible Ocean, a collaboration between Department of Music Professor Lei Liang and Scripps Institution of Oceanography Assistant Project Scientist Josh Jones. Over eight years, the pair recorded earthquakes, ship noise, whale songs and other sounds in remote underwater locations. They transformed those recordings into a live music experience that allowed audiences to hear the ocean in an entirely new way. The work premiered on campus in May and continues to evolve.
The arts also connect the campus to the global art world and diverse perspectives. Chief Campus Curator Jessica Berlanga Taylor recently curated the Mexico Pavilion at the 61st Venice Biennale, featuring RojoNegro, the collective formed by Noé Martínez and María Sosa. The collective will unveil a compelling new permanent installation for UC San Diego’s celebrated Stuart Collection later this fall.

ArtPower offers another easy entry point, bringing touring performers to venues including the outdoor Epstein Family Amphitheater and the intimate Loft. The nearly three dozen performances featured through its 2026-2027 season span music, dance, film, theater and conversation.
Among the fall highlights is Ghostbusters in Concert on Sept. 25, pairing the beloved 1984 film with a live performance of Elmer Bernstein’s score. Tickets start at $35, and the amphitheater is located next to the UC San Diego Blue Line trolley station.
“Every member of our community should have access to world-class art, so we work hard to remove the barriers that stand in the way,” says Colleen Kollar Smith, executive artistic director of the Campus Performances and Events Office. “That means affordable ticket prices, and performances, voices and experiences where people see themselves reflected on stage and know they belong.”
The arts at UC San Diego are not only something to watch. The Craft Center offers public classes and workshops in ceramics, jewelry, woodworking, culinary arts and even surfboard shaping. At the new Glass Center, beginners and experienced makers can explore glassmaking through classes, demonstrations and studio experiences.
Whether you want to attend a performance, make something yourself or spend an afternoon exploring public art, there is an easy way in. And the invitation extends well beyond students and alumni.
Kollar Smith says it best: “Visit, participate, spectate or create. You’re invited, and we hope you’ll connect with us soon.”
Explore upcoming experiences at ucsd.edu/artsconnect.
Meet the artists, makers, and advocates whose work shapes how the city looks, sounds, gathers, and connects
San Diego is full of people who deserve a few thousand words on what they make, who they bring together, and how their work changes the city around them. The artists, makers, advocates, and behind-the-scenes talent below are a small part of that larger ecosystem.
To help us narrow our list, we looked for names that kept coming up, work that reflects the diversity of our region, and people building something bigger than themselves.
Jackie is a long-time freelance journalist covering cannabis, food/restaurants, travel, labor, wine, spirits, arts & culture, design, and other topics. Her work has been selected twice for Best American Travel Writing, and she has won a variety of national and local awards for her writing and reporting.
Isabella Dallas is a freelance writer for San Diego Magazine and the Arts and Culture Editor at The Daily Aztec in her final year at San Diego State University. She previously worked as an editorial intern for SDM, but when she’s not writing, you can find her trying the best coffee spots in SD, devouring the latest rom-coms, and indulging in anything and everything pop culture.
Matt Eisenberg is an award-winning writer and photographer based in San Diego. A former ESPN editor, his work has also been published by CNN, Bleacher Report and the New York Daily News.
Aaryn Belfer is a writer and editor specializing in nonfiction across art, architecture, and culture. Once upon a time, she wrote a provocative column for San Diego CityBeat (RIP). She was a runner up in the 2025 Matchbook Stories contest at the San Diego Central Library and is irrationally happy about it. Currently in her Soft Girl Era, Aaryn has expensive taste in (mostly flat) shoes and will choose a great art exhibit or live jazz concert over almost anything else. Except, possibly, Javier Bardem.
Leorah Gavidor won her first essay contest at age 5. She writes features, news, and non-fiction in San Diego.
Lili Kim is a content coordinator and writer for San Diego Magazine, with experience highlighting local businesses and communities. When not writing or shooting film, she is likely brewing her seventh cup of tea of the day or strolling along Sunset Cliffs.
Emma Veidt is an editor at San Diego Magazine. She earned her bachelor's and master's degrees from the Missouri School of Journalism. She loves running, hiking, and rock climbing, but really, she mostly loves encounters with the street cats around North Park.
Gail Czyszczon is owner/copywriter at Z3 Writing and best-selling author of a children’s book series. As a strategic communications professional and editorialist, she's passionate about discovering untold stories and themes that ignite fresh conversation and true change in communities.
For Jonathon Glus, San Diego’s next chapter begins with the artists who help us understand where we’ve been
Some ancient philosophers believed that humans experience seven-year life cycles or phases of life. Some went so far as to believe that every cell in the body regenerates every seven years.
Much later, in the 1800s, Austrian philosopher, architect, and social reformer Rudolf Steiner developed anthroposophy—an integration of science, art, and spirituality—into his understanding of the human experience. Steiner believed that each of us changes every seven years—from spiritual beliefs to physical evolution—and art is the connective tissue through each of these cycles. Still today, Steiner’s teachings are foundational to the principles of Waldorf education.
While I’ve certainly experienced more than a few human life cycles of my own, I believe that, just like us, cities have their own life cycles.
Cities are living organisms, regenerated every day by the people that live, work, and gather there. Environmental changes, human migration, economic shifts, technological advances, politics, and public policy—they all inform a city’s evolution, sometimes intentionally and sometimes by forces outside of our control. But ultimately, we as humans respond, adapt, and sometimes make our most important new advances.

In the aftermath of World War II, in 1947, the Edinburgh International Festival was established to promote international peace through the performing arts. Today, that festival continues as a global gathering place to experience some of the world’s most innovative dance and theater.
In post-revolution Mexico, that country’s government launched a monumental muralism program to celebrate the history of its Indigenous cultures. Today, that tradition still informs the way Mexico tells its stories and how we understand its history.
Here in the US, the National Endowment for the Arts was established in 1965, at a time when the arts were seen as part of our national strength and resilience. For the first time, federal funds were directed to communities across the country to invest in the arts at a local level.
San Diego may be relatively young as a major American urban center, and even younger on the world stage, but our region as home to humans is ancient. Today, we love a San Diego that is built on roads and traditions of the Kumeyaay Nation, where we share a modern mega-region with our sister city and cultural twin, Tijuana, on unceded Kumeyaay land.
History has shown us that the arts generate the very human connection and understanding that allows our politics, policies, technological advances, and human migration to move forward. In that way and more, the arts are the very heartbeat of our city.
In this issue of San Diego Magazine, we celebrate the artists, creatives, culture bearers, and workers who keep our region connected and in conversation as we take on challenges big and small—internationally as well as on our own neighborhood streets.
Artists are our storytellers. They respond to and chronicle the best and the worst of us—our foibles and weaknesses, our struggles, and, undeniably, our successes.
Now: a look back into the past seven years in history. They have not been a walk in the park, with a pandemic, global unrest, and shifting domestic politics as only a few forces that have challenged our lives and our region. Together, we experienced some of our greatest struggles and witnessed tremendous resilience.
That’s exactly why this is an exciting time for the arts in San Diego. We are on the precipice of an even more fertile, sustained, and inclusive time for the arts in our region.
In some ways, Covid seems like an eternity ago. I remember all too well the massive economic impact on our cultural institutions, some of which have never fully recovered. I remember the mass layoffs of the workers who keep our arts institutions going and the teaching artists who were suddenly out of work.
I also remember the poets, filmmakers, actors, and musicians who helped us grapple with the disruptions of the pandemic. Our communities became virtual, and artists gave us the space to make sense of it all.
In fact, a common phrase emerged from the Covid: artists as second responders.
Still today, I think about the short film made by San Diegans Susanna Peredo Swap and Gill Sotu called History of Joy, which captured so brilliantly what we were experiencing during those days of lockdown.
Since then, as an arts community, we’ve pushed forward transformational work that we will continue to build upon in this next seven-year cycle and well beyond.
Hundreds of artists and culture bearers have spent the past several years going to work with community groups across the region as part of Far South/Border North, our region’s component of the California Arts Council’s groundbreaking artist work program, Creative Corps. The impact resonated so deeply that local government and philanthropy partnered for a second iteration, Artist Count, this time a binational initiative launched just a few months ago.
We’ve invested mightily in cultural infrastructure. Need some examples? There’s the reimagined Jacobs Music Center and Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, the Black Arts & Culture District, the state designation of Arts District Liberty Station, and now the burgeoning Art + Design District downtown.
World Design Capital San Diego Tijuana 2024 elevated what we already knew—that the two neighboring cities are culturally and creatively intertwined as one region—and boosted our global presence as a creative juggernaut. Artists, designers, and community leaders worked together to produce more than 600 events across our region that year, and the impact continues.
And “Creative City,” the City of San Diego’s first cultural plan that incorporates arts and culture advancements in the city’s development, was crafted by thousands of San Diegans as a roadmap to take us into the future.
Here’s what I know about the past seven years: San Diego’s artists, creatives, and culture bearers showed up for our region as our storytellers, second responders, and creative workforce.
And for the next seven? San Diego will morph and change, as every city does. Sometimes because of us, sometimes in spite of us. But our city’s creative community has a solid foundation on which to build, led by the artists who witness and tell our stories each and every day.
—Jonathon Glus, Conrad Prebys Foundation’s Senior Fellow for Art and Design in Residence at the Downtown San Diego Partnership
Laika Nur, MD, takes her love of volleyball from the court to the clinic as team physician for the San Diego Mojo
Growing up, Laika Nur, MD, Scripps Clinic sports medicine specialist, loved watching beach volleyball when the Association of Volleyball Professionals tour came to her hometown of Chicago. A talented volleyball player herself, she remembers sitting in the stands all day, and once, even got a couple autographs. Years later, Dr. Nur was attending a professional event focused on women’s sports, and the discussion turned to a new professional women’s volleyball league. The general manager and coaching staff for San Diego’s team, the Mojo, happened to be in attendance, and Dr. Nur took the opportunity to ask them if they needed a team doctor. Flash forward to the Mojo’s inaugural 2024 season, when Dr. Nur officially became the team physician. Click here to read more about Dr. Nur and how she incorporates lessons she learned on the court into her practice.
For more nutrition, wellness, and healthy living tips, sign up for the San Diego Health newsletter here.