Americans each eat around 100 pounds of chickens per year. In San Diego, Crack Shack seems responsible for about 70 of those lbs. And this week, the fried-chicken spinoff of one of the city’s top restaurants (Juniper & Ivy) opens a new joint in Pacific Beach. The sauces that made them famous will get a proper co-billing.
The Crack Shack first spun off J&I in 2015 on what was once a quiet street in Little Italy. Some called the location premature, but culinary director Jon Sloan knew he had some winners—like the sloppily magnificent Señor Croque breakfast sandwich, and the whole Jidori fried chicken with schmaltz and Crack-spiced fries. A few locations later—Encinitas, Las Vegas, Costa Mesa—and one neighborhood-wide culinary revolution under their belt, they’re ready for the youthful always-always land of PB.
Opening on PB’s main drag (4525 Mission Blvd., between Garnet and Felspar), The Crack Shack will begin welcoming guests in the next week or so. It’s an area Sloan calls the perfect intersection of busy but still growing. “[PB] is evolving,” he says, pointing to the plethora of new eateries and proximity to the comparatively more upscale Bird Rock. “It’s becoming more and more mature.”
At PB, the signature housemade sauces Sloan and his chefs obsessively R&D’ed—ranch, fry sauce, barbecue, pineapple mustard—will be bottled and sold for the first time. Fans have been asking for this for years.
For the barbecue, Sloan mentions the iconic Sweet Baby Ray’s sauce as a cultural jumping-off point—sweet and smoky. For the ranch, they use Kewpie mayo—higher fat, higher vinegar, the chefiest mayo around. The pineapple mustard sauce was originally developed for a Korean pork belly dish at Juniper & Ivy. “We caramelized the heck out of the pineapple with agave,” he explains, then blended multiple mustards with soy sauce for a salty-sweet tanginess that hits all your tongue’s hot spots.
The Sriracha-fry sauce tips a hat to Sloan’s East Coast upbringing, where pastrami sandwiches are slathered with Thousand Island or Russian dressing. Traditionally bone-simple ketchup and mayo, Crack Shack’s fry sauce is of course way more involved. “You have pickle relish in there, you have pickle juice in there, you have chopped up pickles,” he explains. They also use Sriracha, and then chiles that they roast and steep. Then ketchup and Kewpie mayo.
The sauces will only be available for sale at PB to start, but Sloan plans to have them at all locations soon. He’ll also unveil a new sandwich—the Miami Vice, his take on a Cubano. Inspired by a recent trip to Miami, he uses sweet bread and butter pickles; Swiss cheese; Dijon mustard; ham; pork marinated in mojo sauce; a sour orange marinade with garlic, olive oil, oregano; and cumin for a slightly sweeter twist on the classic.
Expect the same vibe and layout as other Crack Shacks—almost all outdoor seating spread over 4,000-square-feet with seating for 95 guests. It’ll still have the lawn games, fire pits, the whole shebang. After opening the last two locations outside of San Diego (he’s also eyeing Nevada and Arizona for the future), Sloan’s glad to be back.
“The chicken is coming home to roost, if you will,” he laughs. “This is its home.”
The Crack Shack Pacific Beach opens soon at 4525 Mission Blvd. Hours are Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
