When Travis Bailey and Kris Warren first secured their space in North Park, their new gelato shop still didn’t have a name. The 1930s storefront had housed a dry cleaner for 12 years prior. As a joke, they suggested keeping the old name. But the more they thought about “An’s Dry Cleaning,” and the ways they could incorporate elements from the old business and the history of the art deco building into their new concept, the more that joke became a serious idea.
“Once we decided we were going to keep the name, it felt disingenuous to come in and start adding our own elements,” Bailey says. So with the help of their designer, Keenan Hartsten, the gelato guys embraced the history of their new home and kept as much intact from the original place as possible. It took some work, but the end result is the one we see today: a seamless blend of the past and present, all under one roof.
Dig This Deco
“On the exterior you can see the art deco style in the recessed entryway and the triangular design elements on the right,” Bailey says. They carried that influence inside the shop by adopting the same green and black into their color scheme, adding art-deco style wall lights, and revamping two hanging lights that were from the original An’s.
Return to the Fold
Inside you’ll find more nods to An’s. The gelato flavors are all named after fabrics, Hartsten modeled the tables after ironing boards, and some familiar clip art watches over the store. “We researched a lot of other dry cleaners for inspiration, and that graphic on the right interior wall is a popular motif in many of those businesses,” Warren says.
While the original An’s Dry Cleaning didn’t have an overhead sign (only a window decal), the guys wanted to preserve as much of the original logo as possible. “I think I spent three or four hours trying to find that specific font used for the A in An’s,” Warren says. Once they found the font—Commercial Script—they also used the same shades of red and blue in their new logo.
Windows of Opportunity
“Those seven transom windows above the entrance are original and were a source of inspiration for Keenan,” Bailey says. “It also inspired our seven-flavor menu.” The seven menu panels above the register match the size and shape of the transom windows, each showing one of the day’s rotating gelato flavors.
Even if you haven’t gotten your Real ID yet—which you should really do, like, yesterday—you can travel by proxy through food. To take a vacation to Turkey, head over to Normal Heights, where chef Seckin Sage Anlasbay is opening Bosforo, his modern meyhane-style Turkish restaurant in the former El Zarape location.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos Seckin Sage
Seckin first launched Bosforo a few years ago as a wood-fired pizza catering concept, showcasing flavors from his childhood home in southern Turkey near the Mediterranean, alongside influences from places like Spain and Italy. But for his first brick-and-mortar, he’s focusing far heavier on Turkish culture with dashes of Mediterranean, Mesopotamian, and Anatiolian.
“You’re going to feel like you’re having dinner in [an Istanbul] meyhane, [a traditional Turkish restaurant],” he promises, down to the kebabs and Turkish ice cream and décor.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
He kept El Zarape’s open dining room to ensure everyone can see everyone else and peer into the kitchen with the fire of the pizza oven. “The layout fosters openness and connection, echoing the communal spirit of traditional meyhanes while reimagining it for a contemporary audience,” he explains. The space seats 90 guests over 2,500 square feet, with lots of warm lighting and a homey feel across four different areas: the dining room, bar, kitchen, and pizza bar.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
Bosforo’s menu centers around a family-style feast of hot and cold mezes (Turkish for “snacks” or “appetizers”) like olive piyaz (olive salad dressed in herbs and a vinaigrette), girit (cheese and pistachio spread), spicy ezme (vegetable-based chopped salad with tomatoes, peppers, and onions), and Albanian liver (a tender side of lamb or veal liver seasoned with hot peppers).
All of the kebabs are made with hand-ground meat cooked in the same wood-fired oven that cranks out pizzas like the “Anatolian” (Kayseri pastrami, Turkish sausages, aged Kaskaval cheese). Desserts are simple, including gelato and sutlac (Turkish rice pudding).
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
Seckin says a small menu is the point. Even if you’ve never tried Turkish food before, you can try everything. “And after, like, two hours, you’re going to find out what’s Turkish food,” he laughs. “So, I want to show San Diego Turkish hospitality [and] Turkish culture.”
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
All the cocktails have a Turkish twist—think gin, lemon, and Aperol, but with rose water—and a variety of Turkish spirits like the country’s national drink, raki, an anise-forward spirit made with grapes and raisins. After dinner service, Seckin says he’s hatching plans for nightlife with DJs or live music until midnight or 1 a.m., plus weekend brunch.
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Juan Carlos Gomez opened El Agave Restaurant & Tequileria in Old Town almost 30 years ago. He’s dabbled in other eateries since then—a second El Agave in Del Mar and a Spanish restaurant in La Jolla—but never found the next big thing for him to throw himself behind.
Now he has.
“Nómade” unsurprisingly translates to nomad—a restless wanderer, picking up bits and pieces of community and culture wherever they roam. That idea inspired Gomez, who wanted to blend Spanish tapas with European-style wine bars, mid-century and Scandinavian design, and a splash of Japanese listening bar culture—add a dash of Italian, French, and Peruvian influence.
The all-day menu starts with breakfast dishes like avocado toast (it’s still San Diego, after all), tortilla española, and an Italian focaccia sandwich. Snacks and appetizers range from French croquettes to Spanish patatas bravas, while main courses range a bit more continental (like smashburgers and a fried chicken sandwich). The menu will always be in a state of flux, always nomading.
One thing will remain the same—there will always be plenty of wine—old world, new world, plus some natural orange wines and biodynamics. For cocktails, Nómade will lean flavor over strength, using things like infusions and other housemade ingredients to create a number of lower ABV options. Since the restaurant will be open at 10 a.m. daily, it’ll have coffee, matcha tea, and other AM options.
But after dark, Gomez wants to lean into the experiential nature of listening bars. Inspired by travels through Japan, he’s building a sound system for audiophiles. “It’s going to be more of a chill vibe—no nightclub, no loud music,” he promises. “It’s going to be ambience more than anything.”
Befitting the listening bar vibe, Nómade will be open ’til 11 p.m. on weekdays, and 1 a.m. on weekends. For now, the intimate seating (50 people) is inside, but he’s looking to expand to an outdoor area.
Nómade is slated to open by the end of March at 3027 Adams Avenue, just a few feet away from Hawthorn Coffee, An’s Dry Cleaning, and the intersection of Adams and 30th Street. Wanderers welcome.
Photo Credit: Kailee Winslow
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
A Night To Help End Hunger
In the past, local author and writer Madhushree Ghosh has used words to make change. Now, she’s using food through her supper club series about food equity, access, and social justice. KhabaarCo Conversations with Changemakers series brings together the community for conversations about the deeper issues in the food world and how they relate to San Diego. Her next one is on Tuesday, March 11 with Kate Garrett from Feeding San Diego, who’ll talk about local foodways and how the average person can do to reduce food waste and improve equity in neighborhoods.
Courtesy of Trattoria Cori Pastificio
Beth’s Bites
Congrats to Accursio Lota of Cori Pastificio Trattoria for earning yet another accolade to his already long list of awards. Only 18 restaurants in the world received the acclaimed Three Forks (Tre Forchette) distinction from Italian magazine Gambero Rosso this year, and only five of them are in the US. Of course, we expect nothing less from the Best Pasta in San Diego winner. Next up: a Michelin nod?
Liberty Station is a bastion of brand-new restaurants like Wildflour, as well as longtime favorites like the Corvette Diner. But on March 6, another familiar name will open in the already traffic-congested destination—Chick-fil-A. It won’t have a drive-thru, so if you find parking a tad or incredibly harder soon, that’d be why.
This week marks one year of Green Cheek Beer Co. in Oceanside, and while I still miss Bagby Beer Co. terribly, it’s fantastic to know that the sprawling indoor/outdoor venue at 601 South Coast Highway got new tenants and fresh life. It’s where I know I’ll always have a Vienna Lager waiting for me.
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Art and design have always been a huge part of Consortium’s appeal. Local designer Paul Basile is on the case once again, as he was with Craft & Commerce. And SDM got a private first-peek at his new space. We could blather on about our impressions, but make your own.
Stake Chophouse & Bar isn’t your average steakhouse. Blue Bridge Hospitality’s Coronado outpost is a modern interpretation of a big-city steakhouse nestled in the heart of the small coastal community. The team at Stake has reimagined the whole steakhouse experience. By prioritizing a seasonal farm-to-table sourcing philosophy, a personalized guest experience, and unique service touches, like a formal steak presentation and a bespoke knife selection process, Stake distinguishes itself in a sea of steakhouses.
Exceptional steaks, including Wagyu from Japan, Australia, and the U.S., and fresh seafood flown in daily form the core of Stake’s culinary identity. The menu features a five-course omakase-style steak experience highlighting house favorites, plus an array of cuts, and classic steakhouse staples—think a wedge salad, baked potato, or pasta carbonara—refined for a contemporary palate without losing their traditional appeal. Stake focuses on seasonal sourcing from the region’s best family farms and specialty purveyors, and incorporates intentionally unexpected touches to create something truly unique.
“I challenge our chefs and myself to take it a step further in sourcing,” says Chef Ronnie Schwandt. “It’s important to us to highlight different farms, unique one-off farms—whether it’s cattle, strawberries, a local fisherman or from anywhere in the United States, we’re always trying to find that niche.”
Beyond the menu, Stake emphasizes outstanding service, says Vinny Spatafore, Director of Hospitality Operations. Staff maintains detailed notes, allowing them to remember guests by name, recall previous orders such as a favorite martini (also memorable for the customer since it’s served in an extra tall, distinctly-shaped glass), and celebrate special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries.
“When you have those points of topic that you remember about a guest, they appreciate that,” he says. “Our servers are really good with that—we have a couple servers who have been here since the beginning and they’ll remember somebody from years ago, their name, their kids’ names, where they live. I’m really thankful to have a great front of house staff.”
Award-winning wines, rare whiskeys, special events, and a complementary black car service that provides transportation for guests throughout Coronado add to Stake’s appeal.
Schwandt stresses that Stake offers more than a meal; they aim to give patrons something unforgettable.
“It starts when you walk up the stairs and are greeted by the hostess—that sets the tone for the night. Then you’re greeted by a server, who may know you by name, and can guide you through the menu and curate as they get to know you,” says Schwandt. “Most people leave kind of blown away; they leave feeling like they just had an experience. That’s the goal, right? Whether you’re serving smash burgers or high-end steak, you want somebody to leave thinking, Wow, that was awesome.”
Food is a notorious diva to photograph. The wrong lighting can make José Andrés’ paella look like a jaundiced grain bowl. You could be staring at the best sandwich of your life, but shoot it from above and—hey, congrats on that abandoned piece of lettuce bread. A cottage meme industry has been built around the hilariously bad photos on review sites that make Michelin-star food look like Michelin tires.
Especially in a visual modern media world, food culture depends on great photographers capturing the painstaking work in equally deserving ways. We asked four of San Diego’s top food photographers for their favorite shot from another year of documenting what we eat.
Photo Credit: Kimberly Motos
Kimberly Motos
Birdman Sandwich at Chick & Hawk
Getting this kind of shot takes a bit of yoga. Asana yourself into the corner, hold your breath, pray that a chef on the move doesn’t back into your light stand.
“You’re stepping into someone’s workspace during their busiest moments, so it’s a balance of being present to get the shot and being invisible to not slow anything down,” Kimberly Motos says.
The subject here is the Birdman sandwich from Chick & Hawk—hot fried chicken thigh, tangy slaw, kimchi comeback sauce, sweet and spicy pickles, potato brioche bun—getting a hearty dousing of its difference-maker seasoning. Motos captures the parts of the process that diners don’t usually see: the chaos behind something that looks so simple.
Photo Credit: Lucianna McIntosh
Lucianna McIntosh
Oysters + Jewel of the Sea Martini at The Fishery
“I love this image because it feels like a moment you want to step into,” says Lucianna McIntosh. A warm, sunny day at The Fishery in PB with oysters, caviar, and martinis. Yes, please.
The little details—the glass sweating a little, the direct afternoon light creating stark shadows, the oyster glistening on the tray—are the main characters. Instead of trying to overly control the setup, McIntosh “followed the light and lines that draw you in more,” she says. “This was one of those moments where everything lined up on its own for a second. I love it when the shadows end up being just as important as the food itself.”
Photo Credit: Eric Wolfinger
Eric Wolfinger
Herb-Roasted Golden Chicken at Fleurette
La Jolla native Eric Wolfinger—who won a James Beard Award for Tartine Bread, one of the most stunning bread books of all time—says he doesn’t have a signature style. His style is a conduit.
“I see my job is to translate the chef’s point of view into something you can feel,” he says.
For this shot, Fleurette chef Travis Swikard had one directive: cuisine du soleil (“cuisine of the sun”). With a spread of leeks vinaigrette, herb-roasted golden chicken, and beets, Wolfinger wanted to create a scene that felt straight out of the French Riviera, relaying the light, bright style of Swikard’s new spot.
Some bonus additions here: Extra lights—to add lots of warmth—and a clipping from an olive tree.
Photo Credit: Dee Sandoval
Dee Sandoval
Espresso Ice Cream at Lucien
Timing and light are everything in food photography. In Lucien—La Jolla’s tasting-menu-only restaurant with moody ambiance—a single strobe flash creates the ideal spotlight.
Dee Sandoval says she uses the “natural, just-plated energy” of the dish to “create a portrait of moment and craft.” That’s why this Mostra Ghost Bear espresso ice cream—with San José dark chocolate mousse, soy-miso caramel, and koji shoyu chocolate sauce—looks like it might dissolve halfway to your mouth.
Emma Veidt is an editor at San Diego Magazine. She earned her bachelor's and master's degrees from the Missouri School of Journalism. She loves running, hiking, and rock climbing, but really, she mostly loves encounters with the street cats around North Park.
I peel myself off my couch, crack my back, and force myself to the bar (23 years old, by the way). It’s a Friday night, and my smart watch is already informing me my body battery is critically low.
Nevertheless, party we must.
Because, to be fair, one of the best things about going out—dive bar, velvet-clad cocktail lounge, or anywhere in between—is the performance of it all. Watching a bartender shake and stir like it’s choreography, finishing the drink with a sprig or petal placed just so, feeling like your collection of mixers and spirits is worth pouring into the Holy Grail.
One of the worst things about going out, though? Being out.
So I thank God for the home bar.
No lines, no cover, no shouting your order over someone named Kyle who just discovered the AMF. No $19 cocktails that taste suspiciously like juice. Just me, my apartment (where I can play whatever music I want), and the quiet confidence of knowing I can make something decent without putting on real pants.
A home bar, I’ve learned, doesn’t have to be impressive. It just has to be intentional—a few bottles you actually like, some tried-and-true tools, and at least one drink you can make without Googling. That’s it. That’s the barrier to entry.
To create the ultimate home bar collection, we tapped the folks at San Diego cocktail supply shop Collins & Coupe to give us some of their recommendations. Pick and choose what you need, and start cocktailing.
Courtesy of Collins & Coupe
The Must-Haves
Shaker Tin
You won’t get very far in your cocktail-making-journey without shaker tins. Boston shakers (two pieces, tin-on-tin) and cobbler shakers (three pieces with a strainer and cap) are the most classic styles, but if you want to avoid the tins getting stuck (or creating a mess on the floor), Boston shakers are the way to go.
“Koriko Tins by Cocktail Kingdom are the gold standard for every bar worth their salt. Every new bar we help outfit with tools insists on this brand and model,” says Collins & Coupe co-owner Gary McIntire.
“These are handmade, 100 percent solid copper and will last a lifetime,” McIntire says. “Because they are solid, there is no plated finish to wear off, and they will only look more beautiful with age.”
Bar Spoon
According to the pros, don’t even bother getting bar spoons shorter than 12 inches. One foot long is the magic length to get the best stirring results: “Rule of thumb is at least 50 percent of the spoon should be out of the glass,” says McIntire.
Pulp in your orange juice? We’ll allow it. But in your cocktail? Smooth and strained is optimal. You have two choices here: Hawthorne strainers have a spring that attaches snugly to shaking tins; julep strainers have no tabs or springs (originally created to drink mint juleps before straws became commercially available).
We’ve all seen those seasoned bartenders with the arm tats and haughty demeanors who can assemble perfect drinks with their eyes shut. The rest of us, however, need training wheels. Jiggers—those hourglass-shaped measuring tools—make consistent cocktail-making easy, although cheap versions tend to be inaccurate. Don’t skimp out on these.
“Heavy-duty and made of one piece,” McIntire says. “We use [this jigger] in our classes and at home. It comes in a bell-shaped version and a Japanese version, which is tall and narrow.”
“Glassware is always essential to the cocktail experience,” says McIntire. The martini glass is an avatar for American hair-loosening for a reason: sleek, viciously “V,” and highly spillable (danger always looks good). To start, look for a coupe glass (the fancy cat bowl-looking thing), a highball (glassware with posture), and a rocks glass (the blue collar hero).
You know how Caesar dressing tastes way better when you don’t think about the fact that there are anchovies in it? The same goes for cocktails and raw egg whites. Some of your favorites rely on the frothy ingredient to shine (whiskey sours, gin fizzes, etc.). Mesh strainers help make that magic happen. According to McIntire, always get the conical version; the round, bowl style could cause spills.
Lili Kim is a content coordinator and writer for San Diego Magazine, with experience highlighting local businesses and communities. When not writing or shooting film, she is likely brewing her seventh cup of tea of the day or strolling along Sunset Cliffs.
While glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1) receptor agents have been used to treat Type 2 diabetes for more than 20 years, their recent emergence as weight-loss wonder drugs marked a new frontier in medicine. But their effectiveness has left some patients wondering what to do once they’ve reached their goal. Stopping the medication could mean regaining some, if not all, of the weight. A Scripps Clinic internal medicine physician recently conducted a small study of whether GLP-1 patients who had reached their goal weight could maintain that weight by taking their regularly prescribed injection every other week instead of weekly. Spoiler alert: 30 of 34 patients did. Read more about the study here and what that may mean as pharmaceutical companies roll out oral GLP-1s.
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