All due respect to their highly sustainable role in the ecosystem and feeding the world, but sardines served as a dish on their own can be a significant challenge to your ability to enjoy eating as a concept. They are the seafoodiest seafood—as if the ocean itself was poured into a pot, reduced into a deeply intense stock, and served in tiny-fish form.
But at The Fishery in Pacific Beach, chef-partner Mike Reidy—who cooked under two-star Michelin chef Josiah Citrin at Melisse, then was chef de cuisine at Callie for a spell—is serving one of the best versions I’ve tasted in a long while. Two of them served whole, blistered, glistening with olive oil and salsa verde, served with sourdough from Wayfarer Bakery.
The restaurant is the offshoot of local seafood supplier, Pacific Shellfish, started by fifth-generation San Diego fisherman Judd Brown and his wife, Maryanne. Their idea was to connect local boats to local restaurants. They originally set up shop in Barrio Logan in 1978. The city imminent-domained his shop with the construction of the I-5. Full of 1960s protest spirit, he nearly chained himself to his space to save his dream.
But the city let him set up in this prime location in north PB. Maryanne then got swept up in the soft moonlight of Alice Waters’ local-food movement, and did Judd one better by opening a real farm-to-table restaurant next door. Now their daughter Annemarie runs the legacy and has put modern oomph into it (her husband Nick runs the seafood).
So, every morn, Pacific Shellfish gets the best catch from local boats (plus imports off planes at Lindbergh). All Reidy has to do is walk through the double doors, grab the best looking fish he sees, and treat it well. At the bar, Zach Sheldon (who spent years at the city’s cocktail shangri-la, Youngblood) is turning zero-waste impulse into creative drinks like the Sea & Spice. He takes lobster shells cracked for dinner and creates an upcycled lobster oil (blending them, so that the friction heat of the blades cooks the shells and imparts flavor to the oil). The finished concoction has curry leaf cachaca (Brazil’s cousin-of-rum spirit), coconut palm, green curry coconut milk, peppercorn mélange, lime leaf, acid, and crimson droplets of that lobster oil.
On this episode of Happy Half Hour, I talk about those sardines and that drink. I also discuss Accursio Lota, the Sicilian chef-owner of Cori Pastificio and Dora, who just got Italy’s highest honor—the equivalent of a couple Michelin stars. I give a minor hit list of the best dishes I’ve eaten around town (the tomino cheese at Cucina Urbana, the kouign amann at Little While), plus news about San Diego’s first electric food truck serving Middle Eastern food, Copper Kings burger heroes expanding into Oceanside, and the new sushi spot headed to Liberty Station (Ponzu).
For the interview, we run it back with one of my favorite people in San Diego’s food scene, Jon Sloan—culinary director of Juniper & Ivy and co-creator of the restaurant that won the fried chicken sandwich wars, Crack Shack. A hilarious, highly intelligent food mind.
