Once a thriving underground culture of twilight escapism, tiki was adopted by cheap-trick mainstreamers and badly ruined. Now a few “craft” operators are bringing it back to its original Trader Vic’s glory. The Grass Skirt in Pacific Beach comes from the same people behind Kettner Exchange and Vin de Syrah.
Designed by Davis Krumins (Fluxx, Parq), it’s all bamboo and lights, tropical wallpaper and fire, skulls and sex. Chef Brian Redzikowski, a vet of Joël Robuchon, oversaw menu creation, with dishes like bigeye tuna with pickled ginger, sesame, and bonito flakes and a Vietnamese shrimp toast sandwich. At the bar, one of the city’s best, Steven Tuttle, showcases the tiki drinks he’s been R&D’ing all year at Kettner Exchange.
For more photos of The Grass Skirt, see Troy Johnson’s First Look.
910 Grand Avenue, Pacific Beach
The Grass Skirt is now open in Pacific Beach. | Photo by Robert Benson