Longtime popular cruise ship destination, the port of Ensenada has been known more for its animated tourist bars and trinket shops than as a cultural and culinary hub—but all that is changing. These days, the city is holding its own against Tijuana, Valle de Guadalupe, and other nearby food hot spots. A population of young professionals, many who work in the wineries and fine dining restaurants of Valle, are choosing to live in the more affordable Ensenada and making it their own with moody bars, contemporary restaurants, and a slew of new specialty shops.
The Plaza Santo Tomás is a great example of this new energy. Built originally for Santo Tomás winery’s warehouses, the plaza and its buildings have been converted into a dozen or more locales that include the tiny Loca mezcal bar, high-end fishmongers De Garo Pescados Y Mariscos, the Tanto Santo pizza kitchen, and local cheese shop Fromagerie. La Morocha Resta Bar is a collaboration between some of the region’s biggest names in food, including David Castro Hussong, chef of Valle’s famed Fauna restaurant.
Here, comfort food like grilled cheese or arroz a la tumbada is served in a casual, Sunday-dinner-with-the-family ambiance. On the other side of the plaza is La Bête Noire, a cocktail bar and listening room dropped into a space that looks more like a secondhand shop. In the dimly lit basement speakeasy, you can sip a negroni and vibe to electronic beats.
Off the plaza, Ojo Cameleón—opened in late 2024— is filled with locals who come for the craft cocktails and guest DJs that spin all night long on the weekends. The bar Matilda is a mellower scene with outdoor tables and a cozy dining room.
Opened in 2021, it may have the best cocktails in town, with both classic and inventive options. Try the La Margaret with gin, St. Germain liqueur, sake, watermelon radish, rice vinegar, and mirin. The bar also serves a concise menu of delicious tapas and small plates.
Sakanaya Murajiro is a brand-new project highlighting the bounty of local seafood as well as imported delicacies from Japan, with an omakase menu designed by chef and owner Daichi Sato. A hospitality crowd favorite, Da Toni has become the restaurant of chefs and sommeliers on their night off. The menu weaves together dishes from northern Italy and the local influences of Baja—think tagliarini with sea urchin or calamari in anchovy and chiltepín chile sauce.
Bluefin tuna and prosciutto crudo from Da Toni.
The flavor of Ensenada cannot be truly appreciated with just the new and exciting. Seafood salad tostadas at La Guerrerense or a few oysters on the half shell at El Güero are required eating here. Also, stop by Hussong’s Cantina for a margarita and a heartfelt bolero from the restaurant’s musical trio, a 133-year tradition. If you’re open to making a meal yourself, stroll through the city’s tiny fish market that sets up near the waterfront for fresh-from-the-sea abalone, shrimp, and mahi-mahi.
In contrast to the luxury hotels in nearby Valle, you will find places in Ensenada that fit the more laidback style and lower price point of the city. There are several fantastic Airbnbs, but for something a little more personalized and cozy, stay at La Villa De Adelina, a small, five-room boutique hotel with both a bar and bakery on site.
Hotel Punta Morro on the waterfront has dramatic seafront views with chic, modern décor. For some nostalgia, the midcentury Las Rosas Hotel & Spa with its pale pink façade has been lovingly maintained throughout the years and draws back many returning visitors.
Ensenada serves as an incredible base for exploring the nearby vineyards, but it also has its own collection of attractions. From mid-December to April, whales swim and play along the shores, and charter boats offer a chance to catch them in action. For active travelers, there’s sport fishing, kayaking, surfing, and hiking along the coast. Though Ensenada’s downtown is dominated by the waterfront, several nearby beaches are perfect for a picnic.
Estero Beach is mellow for swimming and paddle-boarding, while the shorelines near La Bufadora are great for strolling. Northern San Miguel Beach has a volcanic rock shoreline and waves that make it a top surf spot. And, now, it’s even easier to go from San Diego to Ensenada—the Azteca Express, a ferry traveling between the two cities, officially launched last month.
