Bonus: More Photos of Diane Powers’ Ranch

Tucked into a gentle slope beneath Presidio Hill and overlooking the former mouth of the San Diego River, Old Town is where the city began. Here, some of San Diego’s oldest streets wind through a state park and spill into blocks brimming with festive shops, tucked-away courtyards, and local-favorite restaurants.

Yes, there are museums, margaritas, and plenty of Mexican food, including a pozole from Casa de Freds that will “warm your soul,” says Old Town San Diego Chamber of Commerce Executive Director Alex Ward. But, while those alone are all worth the trip, Old Town is more than a place to begrudgingly rub elbows with tourists. It’s a layered, living neighborhood where history hums through weathered walls and discovery waits around many corners.

“There’s plenty of reasons for locals to visit,” says Nest Tattoo owner Melissa Anglin—including a convenient trolley stop and free parking.

Old Town really is old: The Kumeyaay people lived along the San Diego River for at least 10,000 years before the Spanish arrived in 1769, setting up camp near the village of Kosa’aay. Prominent Californios built adobes at the base of Presidio Hill in the late 1700s; the center of San Diego was there until development at “New Town” in the late 1860s moved downtown to its current location.

The state park system preserved those dusty old adobes in 1968 as “the birthplace of California.” In the 1970s, the “mother of Old Town,” Diane Powers, opened Bazaar Del Mundo, and with it came the colorful, folksy vibe that, like it or not, still defines San Diego for visitors from around the world.

Old Town San Diego Facts

• Now a museum, Old Town’s infamous Whaley House—known as America’s most haunted home—was once San Diego’s county courthouse and the city’s first commercial theater.
• A young Phil Mickelson polished his putt-putting at Presidio Hills in the 1970s, before his father built him a practice course.
• Zillow reports that the average Old Town home value is about $1.1 million.
• Twiggs Street has a new “pollinator pathway” featuring native plants to help increase biodiversity in the neighborhood.
• The pro shop at Presidio Hills Golf Course is Casa de Carillo, the oldest surviving residence in San Diego, which dates to 1821. 1950s TV actor Leo Carrillo descended from the family that built it.

Things to Do in Old Town

In 2018, Melissa Anglin and her husband Taylor brought The Nest Tattoo to life inside a cozy 1920s bungalow on Congress Street, adding a creative spark to Old Town’s historic soul. A few years later, they moved into an apartment just up the hill on San Diego Avenue.

Anglin’s favorite reset is a run to the top of Heritage Park, where the city unfurls below in a patchwork of history and bay views. After, she’ll visit her business neighbors at Encuentro Cafe for “really tasty” breakfast, she says—do not miss La de Mano (a sweet corn pancake filled with Venezuelan cheese) or the grilled arepas (kind of like a giant English muffin made of corn and stuffed with goodies such as eggs and chorizo). The best quick lunch (between inks) is a hot dog or a torta at Que Sazón on Harney Street. “It’s the only place in Old Town I would get agua fresca,” Anglin advises.

Locals have options for dinner or date night. “Jack & Giulio’s is the place for red tablecloths and excellent service, where they treat you so nice,” Anglin says, suggesting that diners order any of the housemade pastas. Home & Away is a sports bar with a great burger, and it’s open for a late-night bite—rare in Old Town. Bring your dog and sit out on the patio when it’s warm.

If you’re into spirits (both the imbibable and the paranormal), get a reservation at Oculto 477—a private mixology experience for two, within haunting distance of El Campo Santo Cemetery. Anglin recommends Rose’s Tasting Room as another place where locals can feel brand new in their own town. A casual setting where guests can learn about local wines, it’s “a lovely, personal, magical experience with a cozy vibe,” she says.

Prolong those good vibes with crystal shopping at the “friendly and approachable” South American Imports, Anglin adds. The showroom with an extensive collection of geological gifts has been in Old Town for 40 years—even longer than its stalwart neighbor Cafe Coyote.

Every summer, Anglin sips a cup of raspberry drinking chocolate at small-batch candy maker Nibble, inside Fiesta de Reyes.

What’s Next for Old Town

Old Town is getting some new (yet old) accommodations: Rumor has it the Hacienda Hotel’s buyers are planning a renovation. And, soon, you’ll be able to secure a night’s stay in some of Heritage Park’s charming (but possibly haunted) Victorians. “I’m sure they’ll be booked solid by ghost hunters,” Ward says.

However, some institutions are saying goodbye. Cygnet Theater Company is ending its residency at Old Town Theater, heading for new digs at Liberty Station. While the state-owned theater goes dark and figures out its next big thing, which could take up to two years, Ward says, keep an eye out for potential happenings in that space.

Post-pandemic, Ward is excited to see more locally focused businesses moving into the neighborhood alongside tourist-centric establishments. “Lower- than-average rents,” he explains, are part of the draw, along with reliable foot traffic and transit proximity. Nest Tattoo is one example; so is Garden Coffee—where you can buy plants, sip lattes, and study or chat at a cozy table.

On the edge of Old Town, a major change is coming: NAVWAR—the WWII military airplane assembly plant on Pacific Highway that later housed Naval Warfare Systems Command—could soon be developed into hotels, housing, shops, parks, and restaurants, plus a trolley stop. Local activists are hoping to prevent Old Town’s views of Point Loma and the harbor from becoming a shiny glass skyline.

Where to Eat in Old Town San Diego

El Agave Restaurant & Tequileria

Bhojan Griha

El Sueño

Where to Shop in Old Town San Diego

La Sirena Silver

Amore Leather

Miner’s Gems and Minerals

More Things to Do in Old Town San Diego

Presidio Park

Mason Street School

Ghosts & Gravestones Tour

 

People Still Gave Back, and They Gave More in 2020

From April through September 2020, the average quarterly gift from San Diego households increased to $432, from $374 the previous year. Not only did our residents give back more, but the causes they supported shifted, too. A poll by the University of San Diego showed that over 50 percent of people who donated money chose issues they felt were the most pressing: food security, helping essential workers, and social and racial justice. For example, the annual Pack the Pantry food drive, organized by the Jacobs & Cushman San Diego Food Bank, saw a record donation amount (around $50,000), which provided 90,000 meals to community college students at 10 campuses. Here’s hoping this spirit of giving continues into 2021.

Source: 2020 Annual Report, State of Nonprofits and Philanthropy in San Diego; University of San Diego

 

San Diego Steps Up for Social Activism

We can thank our Gen Z-ers and millennials for the “cancel 2020” memes that got us through last year, but when it came to social justice, they also took more concrete action.

Because the beach is always open and the culture trends in the direction of mellowness, San Diego is often miscast as disinterested in the hard conversations the country has about justice. But the younger generations helped organize more than 45 peaceful protests countywide last summer in response to the killings of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and countless other Black citizens at the hands of the police.

The county’s first major protest was in La Mesa on May 29: Dozens of demonstrators assembled outside La Mesa Police Department headquarters after a viral video showed the forceful arrest of an unarmed Black man at the Grossmont Transit Center. On December 9, a city review panel upheld the firing of the officer and on January 4, 2021, the officer was charged with filing a false report. On May 31, a 25-year-old Black woman organized several hundred protestors at the Hall of Justice, marching through downtown San Diego.

But some of the largest protests came in early June. Hundreds joined a caravan from La Jolla to City Heights, National City, and Otay Mesa. Over 2,000 demonstrators marched from the San Diego Police Headquarters to North Park on June 4 and two days later, another 3,000 people gathered at the County Administration Center.

Many of these protests stood in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement, which advocates for nonviolent civil disobedience as a response to racist and violent acts against the Black community. Law enforcement agencies across the county took action, most notably by banning use of the carotid restraint, which is similar to the restraint that led to Floyd’s death. The protests also spurred the passage of Measure B, which establishes an independent review commission on police practices. Measure B passed with 74.6 percent of the vote.

 

Staying Home Helped Sweep the Shelters

With their favorite humans spending much more time at home, our four-legged friends were loving the lockdown. And for those who were still waiting for a home, San Diegans helped sweep the shelters with a record number of new fosters and adoptions at the start of the pandemic. “This county has always been there for animals, but especially so during the shutdown,” says San Diego Humane Society President and CEO Dr. Gary Weitzman. The humane society’s four campuses were virtually cleared last March, when their head count of 3,000 decreased to under 1,000 and 65 percent of their animals went into foster care. And our pets aren’t the only ones to reap the benefits: While the pandemic takes a heavy toll on our mental health, Weitzman suggests that animals are a major cure for the quarantine blues. “We’ve had less animal surrenders, more fosters, and can really feel the love San Diego has for its animals.”

 

Light Testing Began on the Bay

For nearly 15 years, the port has been developing a permanent light installation for the Coronado Bridge that will change colors to reflect what’s happening in the city, much the same way the Empire State Building does for New York—celebrating holidays, sports teams, or visits from international representatives. The project made a huge leap last year when the Port of San Diego temporarily installed 170 lights to gather information on the engineering, design, and sustainability of the project. For longterm associates—like Yvonne Wise, the port’s director of the Waterfront Arts & Activation department, and Commissioner Marshall Merrifield, who spearheaded the fundraising campaign—the test was the result of years of hard work. The next steps are to raise more money (a humble $13 million) and work with an artist on the design.

 

Chula Vista Rolls Out the Red Carpet for All

When life gave Chula Vista lemons, they made lemonade for their new neighbors. The “Lemon Capital of the World” was recently named the most welcoming city for immigrants in the US by the New American Economy Cities Index. This index analyzes immigrant integration on an economic and local-policy level to find insights on how cities can maximize the potential of their newcomers—to become US citizens, small-business owners, and homeowners. Chula Vista landed perfect scores in government leadership, economic empowerment, inclusivity, job opportunities, and civic participation. It’s been a fast and steady climb to the top for the county’s second-largest city, which ranked third on the index in 2018 and moved into second place in 2019. It was a pretty sweet note in an otherwise sour year.

 

Our Local Biotech Industry Tackles COVID-19

It’s the news we’ve all been waiting for: A mass rollout of COVID-19 vaccines is underway. But San Diego local Jaime Yslas already got vaccinated—at least, he thinks he was.

After reading that Latinos and seniors have been underrepresented in coronavirus research, Yslas figured that he checked all the boxes, so he signed up for a double-blind study in which two-thirds of participants received AstraZeneca-­Oxford’s vaccine. In November, he stood in a Chula Vista parking lot beside a bloodmobile that’d been converted into a mobile clinical trial site. “You have to step forward, or we’re never going to find the answer,” he says.

San Diegans have also been stepping forward for clinical trials of the Moderna and Johnson & Johnson vaccines. All three local studies, overseen by UC San Diego, were part of a larger international bid to test whether the vaccines are safe and effective for all.

San Diego has been at the forefront of the fight against COVID-19 from the start, with a robust strategy of testing, contact tracing, and hatching potential vaccines. “The amount of innovation that’s come out of San Diego is broad and deep,” said Tim Scott, a biotech executive who has tracked local COVID-19 initiatives through a taskforce for the trade group Biocom.

Hologic’s San Diego facility has cranked out tens of millions of tests for SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19, and the company is ramping up production, thanks in part to a $119.3 million US government contract awarded in November.

“The vast majority of all our molecular diagnostics kits—not just for COVID-19—are made here,” says Hologic spokesperson Suzanne Clancy, who notes that the Massachusetts-based company has 1,100 employees right here in San Diego. “We benefit from the excellent talent pool and thriving life sciences industry in the area.”

Testing demand outpaced supply in San Diego last summer, as it did in many places. To help ease the crunch, the county’s public health department signed a contract with a startup best known for genomics. Helix, an offshoot of San Diego genomics giant Illumina, has raised more than $350 million to study the genetics of large populations to discover new ways to diagnose and treat disease. In a pandemic pivot, the company’s San Diego lab set out to process more than 100 million COVID-19 tests a day for health systems, employers, governments, pharmacies, and other organizations. In order to scale up, Helix was one of the first to win emergency approval from the Food and Drug Administration for a COVID-19 test that directly sequences genetic material, increasing the company’s testing capacity. Other companies rely solely on commonly used PCR instruments that amplify genetic matter to process nasal swab tests.

Researchers have also looked to our smartphones and wearables, like Fitbit, for potential ways to rein in the virus. In a study published in the October issue of Nature Medicine, Scripps Research found that pairing data from wearable devices with symptom self-reporting did a better job of predicting the virus’s spread than either method alone. Last summer, Scripps recorded 35,000 people in the ongoing study, with an eye toward 100,000 participants.

Before a statewide rollout in December, UC San Diego piloted an app, CA Notify, that uses a smartphone’s Bluetooth capability to tell people when they’ve been exposed to someone who was later diagnosed with COVID-19.

As of press time, the Pfizer-BioNTech and Moderna vaccines have received US approval. San Diego–based Arcturus Therapeutics and Inovio Pharmaceuticals are still in clinical trials with their vaccines and are being watched closely. Each vaccine works in different ways, meaning one may prove to be best for older adults, for instance.

Only time will tell how the vaccines fare, but San Diego’s exhaustive efforts to fight the virus have helped give the county, and the country, an extra dose of what we need most—hope.

 

We Elected Our First LGBTQ Mayor and Mayor of Color

When Todd Gloria was in the fourth grade at Hawthorne Elementary, he was a finalist in the school’s “Mayor for a Day” essay contest. “I believe the prompt was about building a better city and my response was about more homes and transit for San Diegans,” Gloria says. “I haven’t changed much over the years.” Three decades after entering that contest, Gloria was sworn in as San Diego’s mayor in December.

Gloria’s win is a historic one, as he’s the first openly LGBTQ person elected to serve in the city’s highest office. Today, just three of the eight most populous cities in the country, San Diego included, have elected an openly LGBTQ mayor: Houston (Annise Parker) and Chicago (Lori Lightfoot, in 2019).

The rainbow ceiling isn’t the only one Gloria shattered: He’s also the city’s first mayor of Asian, Latino, and Native American heritage.

During his inauguration, which was done virtually (another first for the position), Gloria said, “As a kid who grew up in Clairemont, I didn’t see people who looked like me leading practically anything—let alone the eighth largest city in the United States. But today, I stand before you as the first person of color and LGBTQ person to ascend to our city’s highest office.” His nephews and nieces watched him get sworn in on TV from their living room, and they dressed up for the occasion.

For his first 100 days in office, Gloria said he’s prioritizing the public health crisis and economic fallout caused by COVID-19, housing issues, homelessness, and the city’s Climate Action Plan, the first incarnation of which he drafted while serving as interim mayor from 2013 to 2014.

 

We’re Moving Into the Fast Lane

Like the so-called sunshine tax, San Diego’s disjointed public transportation has long been considered part of the cost of living here. But there are smoother roads ahead, with the San Diego Metropolitan Transit System laying the final tracks for its $2.1 billion Mid-Coast Trolley Extension from Old Town to University City, with service to begin later this year. It’s the largest light rail extension in the city’s history, adding nine newly constructed stations and a fleet of 45 shiny new trolleys to its roster.

 

The Building Boom Hasn’t Stopped

As of last fall, there were 14 new construction projects downtown alone, including more than 3,000 new apartments. There’s also major housing projects underway in Kearny Mesa (442 units), UTC (over 400 units), and the massive development at Town & Country resort in Mission Valley (over 800 units). The Riverwalk project in Mission Valley is also finally breaking ground this year: When it’s complete, the 195-acre neighborhood will have over 4,000 new homes.

 

COVID Collabs

No sector felt the impact of the shutdown more than San Diego’s small businesses. But where there were struggles, there was just as much support. Last year saw a wellspring of collaborative efforts from restaurant, event space, and retail shop owners helping one another stay open. It took some creativity, but the results just go to show that even during the most dire circumstances, community always comes first.

When Natalie Mitchell and Violet Navarrete faced a series of setbacks shortly after opening their clothing and gift store Timshel Shop—repeated flooding on top of the pandemic, to give you an idea—they made the difficult decision to permanently close their doors. But when they turned to online sales to keep them afloat, fellow female-owned home goods shop Thread Spun had a different idea. They’d had their own experience with flooding (all three owners refer to one another as “floodies,” for flood buddies), and they offered Timshel a long-term pop-up space inside their own store. Over last summer, Timshel donated 20 percent of their pop-up profits to local organizations and raised over $1,000. “Our community may look different now, but we’ve been blown away by the support and lasting relationships we’ve built,” Mitchell says. “Collaborating with other small businesses has been an integral part of building our community.”

Community was always key for Gaslamp Tavern, a relaxed downtown bar popular for its good drinks and happy hour deals before 2020. But the pandemic’s toll on the restaurant industry encouraged owners Estela and Rick Borba to pursue an idea that had been brewing for years. To amplify their offerings and rally behind small pop-up eateries, the duo transformed the tavern into Gaslamp Tavern & Food Hall. Now housing Ghost Fried Chicken, San Diego Tuna Company, and Tacos el Tuerto, the food hall gave emerging businesses a home while bringing more dining options to downtown.

Cucina Urbana has been a vital player in that scene for years, but they struggled last summer when they were unable to create an outdoor dining space (while permitted) due to the layout of their restaurant. Their neighbors, Julep Venue, already had a string of successful virtual events under their belt when they reached out about a backup plan. “We have two large patios that were sitting there unused,” says Julep’s founder and managing partner, Michael Esposito. “It just seemed like the obvious choice to give Cucina Urbana that space.” Over one weekend, the teams got together to work out the logistics of Camp Cucina, a blend of Julep’s eye for design, Cucina’s food, and Snake Oil Cocktail Company’s craft libations. “Everyone has had their own unique challenges during this time,” Esposito adds. “If you can come together to solve those challenges with another business, it’s an absolute no-brainer to do it.”

You can almost hear the mariachis. The spirits are descending on San Diego for Dia de los Muertos and there’s no shortage places to pay homage by way of altars, traditional food, drink, dance, and of course, traditional music.

North Park Day of the Dead Festival

This event hosted by artsy boutique Artelexia promises a huge variety of artisan vendors and food trucks. Children can partake of traditional face painting and sugar-skull decorating while parents indulge in tequila and mezcal tastings.

Where: Ray Street between University Avenue and North Park Way

When: Oct. 26, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: Free

3803 Ray St

Bazaar del Mundo’s Día de los Muertos

Turn shopping into a festive fall afternoon with the Bazaar del Mundo’s Día de los Muertos celebration. Watch performances from Ballet Folklorico dancers, listen to mariachi music, and grab some food and drink in the beer (and margarita) garden.

Where: Old Town

When: Nov. 1 and 2 from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Nov. 3 from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Price: Free

4133 Taylor St

Old Town San Diego’s Día de los Muertos

You’ve got all weekend to check out 50 altars spread around Old Town for this event. But you may not want to miss the candlelight procession starting on Nov. 2 at 6 p.m. at the entrance to Old Town State Historic Park

Where: Old Town

When: Nov. 1 to 3

Price: Free

San Diego Avenue – Old Town San Diego

City Heights Día de los Muertos

You’ll have to be, uh…dead sexy to win the best catrina and catrin contest at this celebration in City Heights? Win or not, your consolation prize will be altar-viewing, face painting, and crafts, not ot mention entertainment from The Old Globe, Azteca Dancers, Fern Street Circus, and a parade featuring Drummers Without Borders.

Where: Jeremy Henwood Memorial Park

When: October 26, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: Free

3795 Fairmount Ave

Encinitas Día de los Muertos Celebration

Mariachis and folkloric dancers will add ambience to this afternoon filled with food trucks, a lowrider car show, a community ofrenda, and artist demos.

Where: Encinitas Community Center

When: October 26, 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Price: Free

1140 Oakcrest Park Drive

Día de los Muertos at Rancho Guajome Adobe

The festivities at the historic Rancho Guajome Adobe will include community offerings, performances by Ballet Folklorico, live traditional music, and food and craft vendors.

Where: Rancho Guajome Adobe

When: October 26, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Price: Free for children 3 and under, $2 ages 4 to 12, $4 ages 13 and older

2210 N Santa Fe Ave

19th Annual Día de los Muertos

At the historic Old Mission San Luis Rey, families will find the Por Siempre car show and live entertainment. There will be plenty of fun for little ones, too, with the mission’s all new kids’ zone.

Where: Old Mission San Luis Rey

When: October 27, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Price: $2

4050 Mission Ave.

The San Diego Zoo Safari Park’s Día de los Muertos

Spend el día with some desert critters when you board the tram tour (available in English and Spanish). Tasty treats like Mexican nitro coffee and skull cookies will be served. Mariachis, stilt walkers, and dancers will make rounds during the late afternoon.

Where: San Diego Zoo Safari Park

When: November 1 to 3, tours at 12 p.m. and 2 p.m.

Price: Children 11 years old and younger are free when accompanied by a paid adult

15500 San Pasqual Valley Rd

Carrera de los Muertos

Run along downtown’s San Diego Bay in a festive 5K or 10K. Afterwards, complement your runners high with mariachi music, dancers, face painting and food.

Where: Embarcadero Park South

When: November 3, 6 a.m. to 11 a.m.

Price: $39 to $74 (depending on age and package selection)

200 Marina Park Way

Day of the Dead Altar Viewings

The opening reception for this Centro Cultural de la Raza event commences on Nov. 1 at 7 p.m. The next day at 4 p.m., learn flower-making, followed by a procession at 5 p.m. Community altars will be open for viewing from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. from Nov. 1 to 10, if you can’t make the earlier festivities.

Where: Balboa Park

When: November 1 to 10

Price: Free

2004 Park Blvd

What better time than Cinco de Mayo to indulge in tacos, tequila, music and Mexican culture? From a traditional fiesta in Old Town to family runs at Lake Poway, there is no shortage of ways to spend the day—or the entire weekend. Join in on the most colorful, most delicious, and most memorable ways to celebrate Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Old Town Cinco de Mayo

Where: Old Town

When: May 4-6

Every year, thousands of visitors flock to Old Town for the biggest Cinco de Mayo celebration in San Diego. Bring your friends and family to this free weekend-long fiesta featuring live music, lucha libre wrestling, and lowrider car shows. Keep an eye out for food and drink specials at local restaurants. Danz Arts will provide Mexican and Spanish dance performances. Enjoy the sounds of traditional mariachi, salsa, and flamenco music as you sip margaritas and indulge in endless bites.

Cinco de Mayo Trail Run

Where: Lake Poway Trail

When: May 4

Looking to earn those tacos and burritos? Look no further than the 5K and 10K Cinco de Mayo Trail Run on the Lake Poway Trail. Compete or bring the whole family just to enjoy a beautiful morning in nature. Additionally, The Kathy Crafts Young Memorial Kids Race is a great fit for kids ages 7 and under who want to burn off some excess energy. Ticket prices range from $10-$40. Registration opens at 6:30 a.m. All participants will receive a race shirt and virtual swag.

Cinco de Mayo: San Diego’s Premier Yacht Party

Where: Grape Street Pier

When: May 5

Party aboard the Hornblower Inspiration yacht’s three levels of music from hip-hop to Latin hits. DJ Esco will spin the tunes, so grab your pals and head over to the harbor. Ticket prices range from $45-$70. Event is from 4-8 p.m.

FOCUS Cinco de Mayo Fiesta

Where: Coronado Community Center

When: May 5

Support this local nonprofit organization while you dine, dance and participate in silent and live auctions. FOCUS Cinco de Mayo Fiesta takes place at the Coronado Community Center from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and include appetizers and a buffet dinner as well as dancing. Proceeds go toward Friends of Children United Society (FOCUS), a nonprofit that supports battered, abused homeless, disadvantaged, and foster children in San Diego County. Tickets are $100 per person.

San Diego Magazine’s Best of San Diego Party featured the top restaurants and breweries in the city. Guests sipped and sampled their way through the evening enjoying live music, DJs and entertainment. Check out the evening’s highlights and don’t miss next year’s Best of San Diego Party in August 2015.

Video production by Chris Calderon