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As American coffee culture moves past the nonfat vanilla lattes toward a more elevated brew (imagine a cuppa so artfully crafted that it’s meant to stand on its own, black, without the cream), San Diego is right on trend. Local roasters are raising the bar and finding that the competition is fierce. San Diego Coffee […]
San Diego Coffee
Luis :Garcia
Daniel Holcomb
Daniel Holcomb, founder and owner of Coffee & Tea Collective
It’s just a cup of coffee. It’s the black, ubiquitous liquid that makes mornings hurt less or brings the afternoon a caffeine-laden second wind. Coffee has long been a beverage more mindlessly ingested than tasted and appreciated. All that is changing now. As foodies move toward fresh, organic, local everything, it’s only natural that the coffee industry—purveyors of something 63 percent of Americans consume daily—would catch on. Finally, coffee is joining the upper ranks alongside craft beer, cold-pressed juice, artisan cheese, and other high-brow food and drinks.
Modern coffee evolution can often be broken down into three phases. The first was a post-WWII surge that put Folgers and Maxwell House into most American mugs. This was mass coffee production on the grandest scale, sardining burnt grinds into cylindrical tins and creating a generation of drinkers of bland coffee. The second is attributed to Starbucks and Peet’s, companies that focused on espresso-based coffee drinks (think half-caf soy nonfat grande lattes, four pumps, no whip) and coffee that was labeled by country and region, similarly to wine.
The most recent phase, known in the industry as the Third Wave, is coffee craftsmanship of the highest level. Drilling down past sourcing and labeling beans by country, they’re sourced from specific farms. The dark roasts made popular by Starbucks are now manifesting into lighter, brighter roasts, more acidic and almost sour (though this isn’t a defining characteristic of the movement, just a result of it). New serving techniques also mark the arrival of the Third Wave: A pour-over is a slow-drip single cup of coffee made to order, where beans are ground and placed in a filter-lined ceramic funnel and hot water delicately drenches the grind. Siphoned coffee is brewed in an hourglass-looking device that uses heat and vacuum pressure to reverse-cycle (from bottom to top) hot water through coffee grounds. Cold brewing is an eight-to-12-hour process in which room-temperature water percolates through coarsely ground coffee.
David Kennedy
David Kennedy pours over at James Coffee Co.
David Kennedy pours over at James Coffee Co.
Bonus: Click here to see a video of one of the Thursday Night Throwdown latte art competitions put on by the San Diego Coffee Network.
Third Wave may be a new term, but its concepts have been brewing for quite some time. San Diego is a relative neophyte to specialty coffee, but several roasters have paved the way for a coffee renaissance. One pioneer everyone points to is Arnie Holt of Caffé Calabria. Almost 23 years ago, Caffé Calabria began simply as a quest for a decent cup of coffee. A Seattle native, Holt set up coffee carts at Grossmont and Kaiser Hospitals before opening his Italian-accented North Park coffee shop and roasting operation. “I’ve been trying to pioneer Third Wave coffee for a long time,” Holt says. “It’s really good to see it happening because it’s where coffee should be.”
Café Moto (which began as a division of Pannikin Coffee) and Ryan Brothers are both Barrio Logan stalwarts that helped to get San Diegans thinking about coffee and appreciating locally roasted product. But despite these businesses’ efforts, not much national credence was given to our coffee scene until Bird Rock Coffee Roasters was named “Micro Roaster of the Year” by Roast Magazine in 2012.
With a focus on single-origin, seasonal coffee, Bird Rock Coffee Roasters opened in 2002. At the time, the roaster and coffee shop’s focus was different than its contemporaries, giving attention mostly to blends. Owner Chuck Patton opened his storefront right across the street from a Starbucks. “People thought we were crazy,” he remembers. It was almost poetic, though, ushering in coffee’s Third Wave kitty-corner from the international conglomerate. “In the last year and a half, [we’ve seen that] people will seek out good coffee,” Patton says. “That’s a huge thing that started happening. The city is starting to appreciate good coffee.”
By “good,” the experts are referring to a taste so sophisticated and flavorful that it can and should be drunk black. Hold the creamer.
Jonathan Britton
Jonathan Britton experiments with an iced custom blend of five different single-origin coffees at Caffe Calabria
Jonathan Britton experiments with an iced custom blend of five different single-origin coffees at Caffe Calabria
Wake Up And Smell the Coffee
Luis :Garcia
Wake Up And Smell the Coffee
Luis :Garcia
The proof is in the numbers. According to a recent study by the National Coffee Association on coffee drinking trends, overall coffee consumption in America increased by five percentage points, to 83 percent, in 2013. Single-cup brewing also saw a steady rise, from 37 to 43 percent, while consumption of coffee made in drip coffee makers declined.
Why only now is San Diego starting to sniff out good coffee? Whether it’s the consistently warm weather or the casual work vibe, San Diego falls far behind Seattle, Portland, New York, and the Bay Area in terms of a thriving coffee culture.
Craft beer, on the other hand, is arguably our forte, and has opened the floodgates to supporting small-batch, locally made products. Its spillover can be seen throughout the food and drink scenes, but especially in beverages like craft cocktails and coffee. Partnerships between brewers and roasters are numerous, furthering an unquenchable thirst for specialty coffee. In the Venn diagram that is coffee and beer, these collaborations land squarely in the middle: Coronado Brewing Company’s Blue Bridge Coffee Stout with Café Moto roasted coffee, Karl Strauss’ Wreck Alley Imperial Stout with Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, and Ballast Point’s Victory at Sea Coffee Vanilla Imperial Porter with Caffé Calabria coffee.
Just as the craft beer boom spread like wildfire, micro-roasters are popping up everywhere. One of the best known is Coffee & Tea Collective in North Park, named one of the “21 Hottest Coffee Shops Across the U.S” by Eater.com. Opened in 2012, the coffee shop thoughtfully sources single-origin beans and small-batch roasts, and focuses on a by-the-cup experience. With Zen-like precision, filtered water temperature is measured, coffee is weighed (about two tablespoons for every six ounces of water), and time is taken to ensure that each cup is specifically made for the drinker. Similar to in the craft beer world, Coffee & Tea Collective put its cold brew on tap. You can even fill up a growler of the stuff, coffee concentrate specifically, that’s meant to be mixed with water and served over ice. “It was a very interesting transition for new people coming into the shop. Talking to people, the [coffee] language was different than what they were used to,” says Michael Spear, curator of experiences at Coffee & Tea. “Now we have regulars and people who bring in their friends. We’re a destination coffee spot.”
Michael Spear
Michael Spear at Coffee & Tea Collective serves up cold brew on tap
Michael Spear at Coffee & Tea Collective serves up cold brew on tap
Wake Up And Smell the Coffee
Luis :Garcia
Other local roasters have continued to pop up, with a focus on small-batch roasting (giving the roaster ultimate control over the bean) and serving techniques that aim to present the coffee in its truest form. Dark Horse Coffee Roasters in Normal Heights has gained quite a following, expanding to Golden Hill and Truckee, California (near Lake Tahoe). WestBean Coffee Roasters is getting its first brick-and-mortar location downtown to complement the Mission Valley roasting facility. Café Virtuoso in Barrio Logan sources 100 percent organic beans, and was recently named “Best Small Business” by the California Restaurant Association. Farther north, Lofty Coffee and Revolution Roasters in Encinitas both employ Third Wave principles, sustainably sourcing beans from all over the world. Mostra Coffee in Rancho Bernardo produces a cold brew that fans compare to manna of the gods.
Even rock stars are riding the Third Wave. David Kennedy, guitarist for the internationally touring band Angels and Airwaves, started James Coffee Co. out of his garage, roasting on a popcorn machine. He’s now selling his beans online at a boutique kiosk in Little Italy. Cura Coffee is a direct trade coffee roaster started by Thomas Fitzpatrick, a local dentist who traveled to Nicaragua to provide dental care but came back with the coffee bug. While in the town of Boaco, the team Fitzpatrick was traveling with found a wealth of small farms growing high-quality coffee, and he now works directly with the farmers to source the green, unroasted beans.
If craft coffee is a fire, the San Diego Coffee Network is the one stoking it. Started by a coffee blogger Jessica Percifield, barista Matt Barahura, and videographer Jared Armijo-Wardle, the association hosts events that bring the coffee community together. At its Thursday Night Throwdowns, what sounds more like a WWE title belt match is actually a series of latte art competitions with 100-plus attendees. Small, quiet coffee shops morph into high-energy, jam-packed venues of onlookers watching baristas paint with milk on a coffee canvas. The group hopes to bring attention to our local coffee scene and unite coffee enthusiasts and professionals.
Bird Rock Coffee Roasters
Luis :Garcia
Wake Up And Smell the Coffee
Luis :Garcia
Wake Up And Smell the Coffee
Luis :Garcia
Unlike the craft beer scene, though, local roasters don’t share ingredients or recipes and aren’t collaborating much, due to the nature of selling coffee. “Go to any new bar in town,” says Chuck Patton of Bird Rock Coffee Roasters. “It’s going to have lots of taps, so breweries can share a single account. But coffee isn’t really like that—you can’t share wholesale accounts.” There’s an underlying competitiveness and survival instinct to the coffee industry, of which most drinkers are unaware. And while the San Diego Coffee Network aims to table the politics, if just for an evening, to shine a light on a growing industry, Patton says it’s sourcing that really separates the crème de la crème of Third Wave roasters. “It’s terrific how many roasters are putting time and energy into quality coffee. But more effort needs to be placed on sourcing green beans. It’s crucial for the long-term success of San Diego coffee,” he says. “It’d be great to see more people making the effort to go to origin. There’s time to do that. The coffee industry is rather young but we should be working towards sourcing.”
And this is just scratching the surface. Each year, consumption of these specialty coffees continues to rise, wedging open the door for quality coffee responsibly sourced and precisely prepared.
Single origin refers to where the coffee was grown. This once referenced the country of origin, then a particular region of the country. Now, certain farms or a co-op of farms or estates are noted, as with wine, and terroir is often considered.
Small batch and micro roasting are symbiotic terms more commonly seen as “small batch roasting.” As with craft beer, it depends on the size of the roasting equipment rather than the amount of coffee roasted. A roaster in the 25-lb. region is mostly considered small batch roasting. Reaching more than 100 lbs. is considered macro-level roasting.
Fair trade coffee is a certification. It fosters sustainable farming (of the coffee) and financial health of the small farmers and producers growing coffee, often in underdeveloped countries. It aims to distribute profits to stimulate economic growth, encourages ecologically responsible farming, and promotes fair working conditions.
Pour-overs are cups of coffee made individually. Beans are ground for a single cup and brewed in a cone dripper by meticulously pouring hot water over the freshly ground coffee, allowing it to drip into the cup from which it will be drunk.
Cold brew is not iced coffee. Coffee grounds are steeped in room-temperature water for a period of 12 to 24 hours. This results in a less acidic coffee with higher caffeine content and nuanced flavors, usually mixed with water and served over ice.
A conversation with Sebastián Morúa on art, community, and why the club’s future heroes should include the creatives helping build it
Sebastián Morúa is the Senior Vice President of Brand & Innovation for San Diego FC. He oversees Playmakers, the program through which the club has, over the past three years, engaged with over 80 working artists—not as marketing partners, but as co-creative directors.
Morúa didn’t build Playmakers as a community-outreach program bolted onto a Major League Soccer franchise. He built it as the identity of the franchise. When we sat down, he talked about the World Cup, San Diego’s creative workforce, his challenge to other sports franchises in the city, and the mural of heroes he hopes people will see one day when they close their eyes and picture San Diego FC.
Sebastián Morúa: I want to answer that in two parts. Philosophically first—because I think what you’re really asking is why should any sports team do this when most don’t.
Sport is a platform for transformation. It has proven that over and over. We saw it this summer with countries participating in the World Cup for the first time and what that did in their home countries—the sense of self-identification, pride, possibility. That is the power of sport.
When you take a sports team that’s fueled by that principle and understands what it could mean for other stakeholders in a community, you start to think about what you can accomplish in collaboration with them. One of those stakeholders, very early on, was the creative community. If we were going to build a team that represents this place and its people, we needed to go to the source. Artists are uniquely positioned to translate the essence and the soul of a community. When you zoom out and look at the multitude of artists in a place, you start to see the fabric of that local culture. That’s where the sense of pride and possibility gets unlocked.
Our mission is to create opportunities for talent to flourish and make San Diego shine. That means the club is a platform. When we started doing the early research for the brand, we brought artists into our focus groups. The response was immediate. There was a clear need. In 2024, we ran the first full year of what became Playmakers, working with more than 20 artists to help us tell the story of how San Diego FC could weave 18 distinct communities together.
We’re in the business of developing communities through sport. We’re not in the business of fútbol to entertain communities. That is an outcome—but not the purpose.
No. I wasn’t thinking about where this was going or how much it would cost. It instinctively felt aligned with our organizational purpose, and we made a decision to go for it. Now it’s become what it’s become.
If a fan closed their eyes 20 years from now and tried to paint a mural of the heroes that make up the club, they would see a big percentage of Playmakers artists on that mural. Ask any fan about the team they’ve supported for decades, and they’ll tell you about players, maybe a coach, maybe an owner. We’re expanding that. In our mural, there’ll be artists, entrepreneurs, community leaders, youth coaches. The community will be present.
Three to five years from now, Playmakers is an established community of creatives who have co-directed the identity of the club and the evolving identity of San Diego. If we keep the pace we’ve kept, we should have collaborated with 150 to 200 artists whose stories we’ve told and whose next steps we’ve helped support.
There’s a huge benefit for us as a club and as a brand. This is symbiotic. The artists have a need, we can support that need, and in return the community cares more about our club because of the investment we’re doing in the community. That’s what I would tell another organization.
San Diego is waking up to how much it has to offer the global conversation around culture. There’s a purity to life here—partly because of the weather, which allows us to spend so much time outside, in nature—and that exists alongside this incredible richness in food, music, art, and now sports.
I have a sense that San Diego is ready to unlock its full potential. You see it in the artists and creatives here. They’re ready. There’s very little hesitation. It’s more like: “Hell yeah, of course I want to do this. I know I’m talented. I’ve been waiting for something like this.”
That energy, combined with the unique lifestyle and character of this place, creates a really exciting sense of what San Diego can become in the years ahead.
I would ask: What would you say to the other big players in San Diego who are—or could be—shaping the cultural fabric of our community? Do they understand the symbiotic benefit? Are they supporting it?
Because Playmakers, in the end, is a cultural compass. It’s making sure that San Diego still feels—and will always feel—represented in the creative process of building San Diego FC and what that means for San Diego.
The pitch is a canvas. Athletes are painting collectively during every game. There is a story in every game. That’s the link between sport and art. At the core, it’s the same creative process.
Surf’n Slaw founder Kumi Alexander is introducing local farmers market crowds to okonomiyaki, the savory Japanese pancake she grew up eating
After 15 years married, my husband and I tend to agree on most things. But there’s one argument we both refuse to bend on—I prefer okonomiyaki Osaka-style, and he’s a die-hard Hiroshima-style devotee. (To be fair, we both adore both styles, but at this point, it’s just fun to have a low-stakes disagreement.)
Okonomiyaki is one of Japan’s greatest comfort foods, a savory pancake that’s about the size of a DVD, if you aren’t too young to know what that is. It’s not terribly hard to make—it’s flour, eggs, dashi stock or water, and a whole heap of shredded cabbage, plus optional fillings like green onions, pork belly, or bonito flakes, all cooked fresh on a flat top griddle. Drizzle some kewpie mayo and okonomiyaki sauce on top, and you’re hot to go.
However, it’s not easy to make well, and as you now know, people have capital-O Opinions about Osaka-versus-Hiroshima. Hiroshima-style layers the ingredients one by one rather than mixing them together, adding a layer of soba or udon noodles and topping it all off with a fried egg. For Osaka-style, all the ingredients are mixed together and then cooked on the griddle, so every bite includes every ingredient in a hodgepodge of deliciousness. (One Osaka variation called modan-yaki does include soba noodles mixed in the batter, but they’re not traditionally used in that regional version.)
Despite a childhood spent in Osaka, Japan, Kumi Alexander specializes in making Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. “Okonomiyaki has been part of my life for as long as I can remember,” she explains. “My parents ran their own business when I was growing up, so Saturdays were often busy, and okonomiyaki was one of my mother’s go-to lunches because it was simple and easy to make.”
Alexander came to San Diego seven years ago with a desire to bring a part of her culture with her—not just a product, but a feeling. “When I thought about what could do that, the answer was almost obvious: okonomiyaki,” she says.
She originally launched Surf’n Slaw as a mobile pop-up food stand in August 2025, offering what Alexander calls Japanese-meets-California okonomiyaki. “Our full Surf’n Slaw includes cabbage, noodles, umami dough, beef, shrimp, and vegetables,” she explains. The menu also has a “Green Wave Slaw,” an Osaka-style version that can be made vegan and gluten-free, as well as matcha drinks.
Currently, Surf’n Slaw pops up at farmers markets in North Park, Scripps Ranch, Hillcrest, La Jolla, and La Mesa, as well as other local markets and community events. Eventually, she may expand to a permanent location, but that’s a future goal. And while Alexander hopes that one day okonomiyaki will be as well-known to American audiences as ramen or sushi, for now, she’s just happy to share a bit of home with San Diego.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
San Diego entrepreneur Kenji Blouin-Ito is turning a tiny Uptown Inn space into a destination for bentos, coffee, snacks, and more
Tokyo unquestionably holds the title as one of the best, if not the best, food cities of the world. But despite the plethora of Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants and hole-in-the-wall ramen joints, you’d be remiss in walking past glowing signs beckoning you to enter one of the 56,000-plus konbini across the country.
Konbini cafes like Lawson’s, FamilyMart, and 7-Eleven may look like run-of-the-mill convenience stores, but convenience store culture is a completely different animal there. Absent are the sad, floppy hot dogs sizzling sweatily on a rotating wheel of misery. Instead, konbini are stocked with a bevy of hot and cold drinks in every imaginable flavor, meals like tamago sandos (Japanese egg salad sandwiches) and prepacked bento boxes, snacks like onigiri (handheld triangles of rice and seaweed, often filled with fish or pickled plum), and even limited-edition merchandise (not unlike Wawa’s line of merch).
Soon, Hillcrest will get a taste of konbibi culture. Hako Hako opens in front of Uptown Inn by Vantaggio, next to Ramen Ryoma, in early 2027.
Kenji Blouin-Ito, a half-Japanese, half-French San Diego native grew up eating Japanese food at home and during trips across the Pacific. “I remember looking forward to eating bentos on the train,” he says, grabbing quick items to munch on without sacrificing quality or succumbing to cost. When in France, he saw a rise of appreciation for casual Japanese cuisine, “long before it happened here.”

So he decided to bring it here. After AB 626 passed in 2018 to allow different jurisdictions to permit Microenterprise Home Kitchen Operations (MEHKOs), Blouin-Ito launched Foodnome, the first legal marketplace for homemade food in the US. Eventually, the national nonprofit The Cook Alliance took over the project, leaving him open to the next new idea but with the experience of running a food-based business.
“That experience changed how I think about food, not just what makes it good but what makes it work,” he explains. Bento boxes felt affordable in a time of inflation, convenient in a bustling world, and versatile to a variety of palates. When he got the chance to open a konbini himself, he went for it.
His family runs Uptown Inn, a mix of apartments and hotel rooms that’s seen increased food traffic over the past few years. “We had a small space in front of the building that wasn’t being used, and it just made sense,” he says. Hako means “box” in Japanese, a reference to both bentos and small space from where he’ll sling freshly made bentos, coffee, drinks, pastries, snacks, and a small retail selection.
Hako Hako will initially open for morning and afternoon hours, but you don’t have to wait until next year to get a taste of Japanese culture. Blouin-Ito’s concept is popping up at various coffee shops around San Diego, with a few coming up: Easy Does It on September 19 and Cafe Moto on October 17. Until then, practice the art of gaman: patience with grace.
Hako Hako opens at 819 University Avenue in Hillcrest in early 2027.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
At Vi at La Jolla Village, residents don't have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
Today’s seniors are more connected than ever, with a renewed focus on retirement as a time of discovery and enriching experiences. The ultimate reward for a retirement well-earned is the wisdom to appreciate it all, and what better place to enjoy that unique perspective than Vi at La Jolla Village, in the heart of San Diego.
All-access pass to good living.
As a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC), Vi provides access to a connected and fulfilling community while making it easy to plan for future care, should the need ever arise. With a care plan in place, residents enjoy greater financial predictability and long-term value, freeing them to focus on making the most out of retirement.
Resort-style amenities at the epicenter of a cultural hub like San Diego offer a retirement experience unlike any other. Paired with exceptional dining, spacious accommodations and dedicated staff, the best of maintenance-free living is all around. And with the introduction of Vista 360 Well-Being, Vi’s panoramic approach to wellness, there are more ways than ever for residents to access it all.
The harmony of mind, body and community.

The key to longevity is striking the right balance in maintaining an active lifestyle with an active mind in a fulfilling community. With newly renovated community spaces and restaurants, Vista brings a variety of opportunities for residents to elevate their well-being through Vi-exclusive “Signature Experiences.”
Vista Enrich takes an evidence-based approach to brain vitality, keeping residents at the forefront of cognitive health through exergaming (exercising + gaming), nutritional plans and informative workshops. It is also home to The Brain Vitality Studio, an innovative facility dedicated to cognitive fitness that has garnered national recognition.
Vista Discover invites residents into stimulating educational experiences, from chef-led cooking demos and guided wine tastings to lectures at local universities and intimate lectures following cultural outings.
While Vista Enrich focuses on brain health and Vista Discover engages residents intellectually, Vista Explore cultivates a sense of adventure through curated travel and local excursions. But broadening one’s horizons doesn’t always require a plane ticket. One recent event brought a taste of the world right to the community: an onsite “jazz cruise” featuring live music and global cuisine served at a series of themed “ports” all within the community’s own ballroom.
“Location, location, location”

One of the biggest perks of life at Vi at La Jolla Village is its proximity to just about everything. With easy access to transportation and local attractions just steps away, residents can explore and engage with their community at their own pace.
“There are trolley and bus stops within a 5-minute walk that will get you to the beach, UCSD Campus, medical appointments, downtown La Jolla or San Diego, et cetera. We rarely use our car,” said resident Tom Yager.
With the best of San Diego just steps away, residents don’t just live in the city, they live within reach of everything that makes it special.
The best of all worlds.

At Vi at La Jolla Village, retirement isn’t a chapter to slow down; it’s an invitation to discover more. Tailored community experiences created by Vista, paired with the vibrant pulse of San Diego just outside the door, mean that residents don’t have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
This is what an all-access pass to good living looks like: the comforts of an elevated lifestyle, a community built for growth and a city made for discovery – all in one place.
To learn more about Vi at La Jolla Village or for details on available floor plans, visit ViatLaJollaVillage.com/SDM.
With Sosal Line, Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters are importing traceable seafood from small producers and building a global pantry business along the way
No matter your job, it’s helpful to find some sort of joy in it to avoid going completely insane. Some people savor the variety of personalities when dealing with customers. Others find comfort in the predictability of closing a bar after last call, counting tips and wiping counters. Perhaps achieving Inbox Zero really gets your blood pumping, or shipping a new product design sparks joy.
For Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters, work doesn’t get better than logistics and operations.
“[We] both love all the unsexy parts of supply chain and backend management,” laughs Greenwood. Tracking outbound orders? Ensuring compliance? Managing inbound freight? Stop me if this is getting too hot for you!
Not enough people think about the unsexy reality of running a business before launch, but effectively and consistently keeping an eye on operations separates successful companies from out-of-business ones. Both Masters and Greenwood already own their own businesses—Greenwood is behind the wine zine Campestre Mag and runs the online wine shop Esquina, and Masters co-owns Clos Wine Shop and Fintastic Provisions in University Heights with her husband Paul. Apparently, these gigs weren’t enough to satisfy their collective yearning for spreadsheets and inventory maintenance.
So, they decided to start another business together—Sosal Line, a San Diego-based import and distribution company specializing in global pantry items. The pair launched Sosal Line at the beginning of 2025 and currently only sell three brands of tinned fish, but Greenwood says they plan to expand their offerings as they discover other small or family-run businesses that share their values.
“We want to work with brands and with products that really have a sense of place and actually tell a story—not just the product, but the people behind it too,” she says.
Masters and Greenwood are both Korean-American and named this burgeoning business after Haenyeo, the legendary free-diving women of Jeju Island in South Korea. Traditional Haenyeo equipment and garb include oribal (swim fins), yeoncheol (lead belts to help them sink), and the company’s namesake sosal, a hand-held fishing spear (sometimes called jaksal).
The average person, if sitting completely still, can stay underwater for up to a minute and a half at most. Haenyeo can hold their breath for up to three minutes while actively foraging, harvesting, and swimming. Scientists say these diving women spend more time underwater than any other group of humans on earth. Not badass enough for you? The average age of Haenyeo is around 70.

“Fishing is a strong heritage for Koreans, and it’s the same here in San Diego with the Portuguese settlers,” Greenwood explains. (We aren’t the tuna capital of the US for no reason.)
Sosal Line carries 100 percent traceable, wild caught fish from Galicia in Northern Spain and the Pacific Northwest, all family-owned companies who don’t compromise on sustainable practices. Tinned fish has never been more popular—or more debated—but there’s more to it than cute labels designed for maximum Instagram reach. “I want to know who I’m purchasing from,” says Greenwood. One of their suppliers, Craft Fish Co., which is based in San Diego but fishes in the PNW, is run by JJ and Jessica Gerritsen. JJ catches, Jessica packages, and it’s a business relationship on a first-name basis. “You can’t find that when you’re working with some nameless brand.”
San Diegans can find Sosal Line products at local retailers like Clos/Fintastic (obviously), allmine in Oceanside, Always Hungry Grocery & Goods in Carlsbad, J. Brix Wines in San Marcos, Collins & Coupe/Tablespoon in North Park, and Green Acre in La Jolla. They’re also available in select retailers in Northern California, Oregon, Arizona, and strangely enough, South Carolina. Expanding its client base is, of course, a goal. But not at the expense of quality or joy of discovery.
“I would love to see people try food from different cultures and be excited about it,” says Greenwood. “Maybe make them want to travel to experience different areas of the world.”
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
The folks behind Oddish Wine and Lost Cause Meadery are partnering with Bica to open an all-day cafe, coffee shop, wine bar, and restaurant near La Mesa Village
La Mesa: a bucolic, hill-dappled city long regarded as a somewhat frumpy, never quite trendy bridge between the urban cool of Mid-City and the rural sprawls of East County. La Mesa’s population clocks in at around 4 percent of the city of San Diego’s—fewer than Chula Vista, Oceanside, Escondido, Carlsbad, El Cajon, Vista, San Marcos, and Encinitas, in that order. It’s home to a killer Oktoberfest, one of the best charter high schools in the state, and a theatrical mayor who tools around town in a golf cart (and so far, hasn’t cut any arts funding or closed public bathrooms).
But any area that’s only 20 minutes from downtown San Diego and under 20 miles to Mission Bay will only stay under the radar for so long. Slowly but surely, bits and bobs from San Diego’s cultural tastemakers have been popping up all over town. Dark Horse Coffee and the boutique Small Batch both opened in La Mesa in 2018. Stella Jean’s and Pop Pie are coming later this year. Native Poppy is building its new headquarters and studio this fall. After a year in business, the new owners of JK’s Greek have established themselves as one of the best Greek restaurants in the county.
Next year, La Mesa will get one of its most ambitious projects yet. Billy and Suzanna Beltz, owners of Lost Cause Meadery and Oddish Wine, are pouring everything they have into renovating a 5,000-square-foot building between the Village and MacArthur Park to open a wine/beer bar, coffee shop, all-day cafe, and wine shop.
The concept doesn’t have a name (yet), and Bica in Normal Heights will come on as a partner to run the restaurant aspect and coffee program (which also won’t be called Bica. Still lots of naming decisions to be made). But the Beltz’s vision is to create something in La Mesa that doesn’t exist yet—a community gathering space open from morning until night that’s family-friendly, creatively designed, and well… cool.
The building has been around since the 1940s, first operating as a neighborhood market, then butcher shop, secondhand children’s store, electronics store, dry cleaners, and bike shop. The Beltzses say they plan to keep the “soul and character” of the space as much as possible, highlighting original details like a barrel-shaped wooden roof, brightening up the corner building by utilizing the large front windows, and eventually building an outdoor dining/drinking space and kid-friendly area—a must for the neighborhood’s plethora of young families. They tapped all locals for the design and build: Tecscape Design, design consultant Carly Miller-Chen (who owns Ayi boutique in South Park) to create the space, and local contractor CLTVT.

Starting in the morning, the space will offer coffee and light breakfast items before transitioning to lunch and dinner menus, plus a full bar that will feature Oddish and Lost Cause products as well as other local wines, beers, ciders, and other beverages alongside an aperitivo program and low-ABV cocktails and spritzes. Food-wise, they plan to install a wood-fired oven and rotisserie, but expect more menu details to be revealed closer to opening.
There will also be a small retail space focused on natural wines and ciders from places like Raging Cider & Mead in San Marcos and other San Diego and Baja California makers. But don’t expect run-of-the-mill options from the guy who makes weird wines and mead, the oldest alcoholic beverage in human history (hardly TikTok trend material). “We have a unique perspective… Hopefully we can expand some palates and minds in the process,” says Billy.
Community is the heart of the project, more than food, more than drinks. “We have a young family. [Bica owners] Manny [Da Luz] and Charlie [Knowles] have families,” says Billy. Suzanna adds: “People want a space that they know they’re going to get really amazing food, really fun drinks, but they can also feel like they can bring their kids during the weeknights.” It won’t be North Park 2.0, although many families now living in La Mesa came from various neighborhoods across Mid-City (like the Beltzes). It’s filling a void. It’s something they can build from the ground up. And just maybe, it’s something that will surprise people who have yet to discover La Mesa’s potential.
Oddish Wine/Lost Cause Meadery’s new concept is projected to open by the end of 2027 at 8495 La Mesa Blvd.

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Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
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