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The new musical is the true story of Tamara de Lempicka, who arrived in Paris as a refugee, newly destitute
Andrew Samonsky and Eden Espinoza in the 2018 Williamstown Theatre Festival world premiere production of Lempicka
Carolyn Brown
In response to the war in Ukraine, La Jolla Playhouse postponed their fall world-premiere Mother Russia. This spring, Cygnet Theatre postponed a play that takes place during an invasion of Czarist Russia. Is director Rachel Chavkin worried about her show Lempicka, opening this month, which begins with the title character fleeing the Soviet secret police?
“If anything, honestly, current events will just make the world of Lempicka more potent,” Chavkin says. “She survives the total loss of her world. How do you prepare for cataclysm?”
The Playhouse’s new musical is the extraordinary true story of Tamara de Lempicka, who arrived in Paris as a refugee, newly destitute. When her husband was unable to find work, she refused to wait for a miracle to save them and worked her way up to become one of the most admired painters of the art deco period. Her portraits were polished and luminous, especially those of a young woman named Rafaela, who became her muse—and lover.
“It’s that love triangle that forms the center of the show,” says Chavkin, who won a Tony Award for directing Hadestown. “I love history and intimate human stories being told against epic historical backdrops, and that’s exactly what this show is. Paris between the wars is sexy, fun—and then very, very frightening.”
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Lempicka runs June 14 through July 24 in La Jolla; Eden Espinoza and Andrew Samonsky are reprising their roles from its original debut at Williamstown Theatre Festival.
Explore the ins-and-outs of this coastal beach town, including what to do, see, and eat
Need help deciding which of La Jolla’s seemingly endless beaches to lay your towel out at today? Each little sandy sliver between the neighborhood’s sea cliffs has its own name and character: the Cove for swimming, Children’s Pool for seal-watching, Wipeout Beach for skim-boarding. Head to La Jolla Shores for that wide, sandy, picnic-with-the-family feel, and if you know what you’re doing, go surfing at Windansea or Bird Rock (if you’re a beginner, opt instead for the Shores, where most of San Diego learned to surf).
Of course, beachy isn’t La Jolla’s only vibe. The Village (locals don’t call it downtown anymore, says La Jolla resident and senior editor of lajolla.ca Elisabeth Frausto) is La Jolla’s most walkable area—highlighted by the main drag, Prospect Street—with a wide radius of shop-lined roads sloping down to the coast.
At long standing neighborhood staples like Warwick’s bookstore and Harry’s Coffee Shop, “old-timers still belly up to the counter and talk politics,” Frausto says. Art enthusiasts visit to peruse through its many galleries, including Quint and Joseph Bellows, and check out what’s on at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD). Shoppers wander Girard Avenue, picking out activewear at Lululemon and Vuori and fancier digs at Thread + Seed and Sigi’s Boutique. Friends gossip and sip coffee at locally owned outposts like Flower Pot Cafe and Il Giardino Di Lilli.

Once isolated from the rest of San Diego, La Jolla became a popular resort destination when the San Diego, Pacific Beach, and La Jolla Railway arrived in the 1890s and made the area more accessible to visitors (who wanted to spend time there so badly they stayed in tents during the summer). Some of those tourists got creative, too.
“Our tradition of supporting the arts goes back to the days of the Green Dragon Artist Colony that was founded in 1894,” says Athenaeum Music & Arts Library Executive Director Christie Mitchell. Anna Held started the Green Dragon Colony to attract visiting artists to La Jolla for a weekend getaway; it quickly became a venue for ad-hoc performances and bohemian artists’ salons.
However, it was Ellen Browning Scripps more than anyone who shaped La Jolla into the neighborhood we know today, commissioning buildings like the structure that now houses MCASD. The arrival of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in 1907 laid the foundation for the establishment of UC San Diego 53 years later at the longtime site of the military base Camp Matthews. All of these developments helped establish La Jolla’s layered identities: high-dollar beach town, arts magnet, academic research hub.


Athenaeum Music & Arts Director Christie Mitchell is a bona fide La Jolla local, having grown up in the LJ neighborhood of Bird Rock. Her dad still surfs, and Mitchell met her own surfer husband at La Jolla High (their toddler has already tried surfing, too). Mitchell’s mom still lives in Bird Rock, and “it’s gotten a lot livelier and more pedestrian-friendly,” she says.
On weekends, she makes sure to hit Wayfarer Bread for “the gooiest, heaviest, stickiest cinnamon loaf—definitely preorder because there’s always a line,” she advises. Friday and Saturday are pizza night at Wayfarer, and the bakery’s industry collabs produce some unique pies. For coffee, head to Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, of course, where you can grab a cup and hang out in the open-air seating or stroll to La Jolla Hermosa Park for ocean views (and a skate park and bike paths for little ones to tire themselves out on).
One of Mitchell’s favorites for lunch with coworkers in the Village is Peruvian-inspired Pepino, owned by one of her high school classmates. “The sweet potato bowl is really good,” she says.

She also cherishes La Jolla institutions. The Ascot Shop, a longtime men’s clothing boutique, is a go-to for gifts; founded by a local fisherman, El Pescador Fish Market is the place for the freshest seafood and fish tacos; and The Marine Room is for special occasions, with on-point service against a backdrop of crashing waves. “And nothing says ‘La Jolla’ like George’s at the Cove,” Mitchell adds. “With the John Baldessari mural and the view, it’s a great mix of the arts and the ocean.”
There’s a surprising amount to do on the weekdays in La Jolla, Mitchell says, with free live music every Monday at the Athenaeum (and weekly ticketed events), late-night DJ sessions at Le Coq, acts at The Comedy Store, concerts at the The Conrad (home of La Jolla Music Society), and the monthly First Friday Art Walk.

The biggest talk of the town for La Jollans? Possible secession from the city of San Diego, Frausto says. Proponents want to separate so La Jolla can maintain its own infrastructure and make decisions about development (critics say La Jolla should contribute taxes to the rest of the city). If the initiative advances, final say would come down to a city-wide vote.
Additionally, locals and visitors alike are witnessing a genuine culinary explosion. Restaurateur Sami Ladeki’s Roppongi, a Japanese fusion and sushi favorite that closed in 2015, reopened in December 2025 under returning chef Alfie Szeprethy. Michelin-starred chef Elijah Arizmendi launched tasting-menu-only restaurant Lucien last year, and chef Accursio Lota of North Park’s Cori Trattoria Pastifico opened his new spot Dora in November. Local designers Paul Basile and Jules Wilson are building Roseacre, 5,000 square feet of culinary concepts on Girard Avenue. And one of La Jolla’s favorite restaurant families is opening a completely new eatery near Torrey Pines Golf Course in summer 2026: From the guys behind Puesto and Marisi comes an Eastern Mediterranean spot called Ikaria.
Back in the Village, a new boutique hotel by Orli is landing in the old nurses’ quarters (now condos) next to the original 1924 Scripps hospital (the institution moved to Genesee Avenue in 1964). La Jolla is also getting in on the thrifting trend—Goodwill opened a shop on Herschel Avenue in early 2026.
Pedestrian-friendly changes are afoot in two of LJ’s walkable areas. At La Jolla Shores, look for enhancements to Avenida de la Playa from El Paseo Grande to Calle de la Plata, where the street has been closed to vehicles since 2020 for outdoor dining. The Village Streetscape Plan is coming to Girard Avenue between Silverado Street and Prospect Street, bringing expanded walking areas, corner parks, improved lighting, new seating, public art, and landscaping to create shade canopies and gathering spaces.

Also look for beautification projects along the coast. The 1920s stairs leading down to the tide pools at Whale View Point are finally getting a redo; Ellen Browning Scripps Park will receive fresh sod and much-needed widened sidewalks. And ADA trail improvements and a new restroom facility are on their way at Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve, making the beloved natural area more accessible.
As for housing, Frausto says, affordable units are hard to come by, and that probably won’t change soon. Most new homes and apartments are geared toward the luxury market, like La Jolla’s first new gated community in 40 years, Foxhill, which broke ground in October 2025 on the site of a former golf course—with empty lots selling for more than $8 million.
Leorah Gavidor won her first essay contest at age 5. She writes features, news, and non-fiction in San Diego.
After 18 years and 20 Broadway-bound premieres, the artistic director leaves behind a lasting legacy
Christopher Ashley is a failed child actor, a former computer programmer, and a Yale alum. He’s also San Diego’s Hal Prince. In 18 years as one of the most acclaimed artistic directors in the history of La Jolla Playhouse, he produced 20 world premieres that went on to Broadway, including Jesus Christ Superstar, The Outsiders, and the Idina Menzel–led Redwood. Now, he’s saying goodbye. It’s a formidable loss for the city’s underrated theater scene.
Following a lifetime of acting (poorly, he claims) in summer theater programs, Ashley switched to directing in high school. A successful New York theater career (the programming stint was just to pay off those Yale loans) eventually brought him to LJP in 2007. His tenure transformed the institution into a nationally acclaimed proving ground for fresh, fearless works.

“In the earlier incarnations of the playhouse, there was much more of a mix of revivals and new work. I have really leaned us into new work. We’ve done [57] world premieres in my time here,” he says. “Everybody at the playhouse really takes seriously the idea of the new and the next. Being a doula to new projects is really satisfying—I get to run a theater during a golden age of American writing for the theater.”

Central to that mission is the 12-year-old Without Walls (WOW) Festival, an annual spring showcase of site-specific and immersive performances. “We were on the leading edge of a kind of work that is starting to really take hold in America,” Ashley adds. “These shows really challenge the relationship between audience and artist. People go because they know it’s going to happen only tonight and never again. Theater offers community—[an opportunity] to come together to experience a story—and that feels more powerful in this moment than it ever has before.”

The sentiment is especially poignant in light of Ashley’s imminent return to New York as artistic director of Roundabout Theatre Company. But he’ll never forget his time here. “It’s the main chapter in my life,” he says. “I don’t know that San Diego gets quite the credit it deserves for what a great city for the arts it is.” Thanks to Ashley, though, it’s begun to receive its fair share of star billing.
Amelia Rodriguez is a writer and journalist and winner of the San Diego Press Club's 2023 Rising Star Award and 2024 Best of Show Award, she’s also covered music, food, arts and culture, fashion, and design for Rolling Stone, Palm Springs Life, and other national and regional publications. After work, you can find her hunting down San Diego’s best pastries and maintaining her five-year Duolingo streak.
Sip German beer at La Mesa Oktoberfest, groove at the San Diego Tijuana Jazz Fest, or celebrate Día de Muertos in Barrio Logan
October is here, and San Diego is coming alive with spirits and festivities. The month kicks off with lively Oktoberfest events, including large celebrations in La Mesa and Ocean Beach. Once you’ve had your beer and bratwurst fix, check out the second annual San Diego Tijuana Jazz Fest or the San Diego International Film Festival for a little a&c, or check out the grand opening of the Navy SEAL Museum in downtown. As Halloween approaches, the city will host a trick-or-treat event in Little Italy, a live theater production of Dracula, and Halloween movies in the park. Let’s get spooky, San Diego!
Food & Drink | Concerts & Festivals | Theater & Art Exhibits | More Things to Do

A free “Taste Trolley” carts ticketholders between more than 50 local businesses providing delicious samples at Taste of Oceanside. The day before the main event, culinary connoisseurs can dig into a VIP kickoff curated by Michelin-starred chef Roberto Alcocer.
Featuring work from over 170 artists from across the United States and Mexico and sips from 35 international wineries, breweries, and distilleries, the free, family-friendly La Jolla Art and Wine Festival is back for another year.
A bit of bratwurst, a pinch of polka, and a boatload of beer—the recipe for the perfect weekend at the all-ages La Mesa Okoberfest, where three biergartens, live music, a Ferris wheel, kids’ activities, a dachshund race, and more await.
In addition to live bands and DJs, the 21-plus OB Oktoberfest brings pretzel-tossing and bratwurst-eating contests, two-for-one beer specials, and a pageant to the sand in Ocean Beach.

The San Diego Tijuana International Jazz Fest returns for its second year, offering free and ticketed performances from genre power players at venues on both sides of the border.
Fall for the San Marcos Harvest Fest’s live music and global sips and tastes. Little ones can learn about farming with a composting station, mini greenhouse, and animal visitors.
The city will take on a touch of Hollywood glitz and glam for the 23rd annual San Diego International Film Festival, featuring five days of screenings, networking events, and red-carpet parties.
Barrio Logan celebrates Dia de Muertos with a free event highlighting the neighborhood’s culture, history, and creativity, featuring vendors, local art, craft activities, live performers, and more.

Downtown’s new Navy SEAL Museum opens its doors, inviting visitors to view a moving documentary, explore educational animations, and become SEALs for a day with a pulse-pounding virtual reality mission.
Some of the most legendary alums of RuPaul’s Drag Race will make a stop at Harrah’s Resort in Valley Center, serving sickening impressions of icons like Britney, Mariah, and Beyoncé in the Werq the World Tour.
Sink your fangs into a tale of undead terror at the Innovation Family Community Theatre in Clairemont, where the classic horror story of Dracula will play out live onstage.

The Pacific Beach Half Marathon & 5K treats runners to coastal views and concludes in the most PB way imaginable: with a barhop.
See San Diego Wave FC face the Chicago Stars at Snapdragon Stadium in the final home game of the regular season and snag a free tee as part of fan appreciation night.
Pack your picnic blanket and popcorn and head to Escaya Park for a stay at the monsters-only Hotel Transylvania, the final showing in Chula Vista’s Movies in the Moonlight series.
Local kids will don costumes and collect candy from Little Italy businesses at the annual Trick-or-Treat on India Street. Once they’re set on sweets, head to the Piazza della Famiglia for photo ops with Jack Skellington.
Glide through the winding canals of the Coronado Cays with a phantom gondolier lurking behind you on The Gondola Company’s Halloween-inspired A Haunting in Venice Cruise.
The Navy SEAL Museum San Diego just opened its doors on Kettner Boulevard, right by the Santa Fe Train Station (and just steps from the bay). Check out the immersive, hands-on experience that pulls back the curtain on the exclusive world of SEALs, with interactive exhibits, rich storytelling, and virtual reality experiences. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily (closed on Tuesdays).
Sloane Moriarty is a rising Junior at the University of California, Berkeley where she studies English and Education and writes for the Daily Californian newspaper. When she is not at a coffee shop doing work, you will find her in front of a bowl of pasta and a good book.
Stake Chophouse & Bar brings contemporary classics and old-school service to the heart of Coronado
Stake Chophouse & Bar isn’t your average steakhouse. Blue Bridge Hospitality’s Coronado outpost is a modern interpretation of a big-city steakhouse nestled in the heart of the small coastal community. The team at Stake has reimagined the whole steakhouse experience. By prioritizing a seasonal farm-to-table sourcing philosophy, a personalized guest experience, and unique service touches, like a formal steak presentation and a bespoke knife selection process, Stake distinguishes itself in a sea of steakhouses.
Exceptional steaks, including Wagyu from Japan, Australia, and the U.S., and fresh seafood flown in daily form the core of Stake’s culinary identity. The menu features a five-course omakase-style steak experience highlighting house favorites, plus an array of cuts, and classic steakhouse staples—think a wedge salad, baked potato, or pasta carbonara—refined for a contemporary palate without losing their traditional appeal. Stake focuses on seasonal sourcing from the region’s best family farms and specialty purveyors, and incorporates intentionally unexpected touches to create something truly unique.
“I challenge our chefs and myself to take it a step further in sourcing,” says Chef Ronnie Schwandt. “It’s important to us to highlight different farms, unique one-off farms—whether it’s cattle, strawberries, a local fisherman or from anywhere in the United States, we’re always trying to find that niche.”
Beyond the menu, Stake emphasizes outstanding service, says Vinny Spatafore, Director of Hospitality Operations. Staff maintains detailed notes, allowing them to remember guests by name, recall previous orders such as a favorite martini (also memorable for the customer since it’s served in an extra tall, distinctly-shaped glass), and celebrate special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries.
“When you have those points of topic that you remember about a guest, they appreciate that,” he says. “Our servers are really good with that—we have a couple servers who have been here since the beginning and they’ll remember somebody from years ago, their name, their kids’ names, where they live. I’m really thankful to have a great front of house staff.”
Award-winning wines, rare whiskeys, special events, and a complementary black car service that provides transportation for guests throughout Coronado add to Stake’s appeal.
Schwandt stresses that Stake offers more than a meal; they aim to give patrons something unforgettable.
“It starts when you walk up the stairs and are greeted by the hostess—that sets the tone for the night. Then you’re greeted by a server, who may know you by name, and can guide you through the menu and curate as they get to know you,” says Schwandt. “Most people leave kind of blown away; they leave feeling like they just had an experience. That’s the goal, right? Whether you’re serving smash burgers or high-end steak, you want somebody to leave thinking, Wow, that was awesome.”
For our Best Restaurants issue, we nod to the trends that marked the year including the arrival of a new brunch spot from an acclaimed Mexico City chef
With all the splashy free-agent acquisitions, the La Jolla spot that seemed to slip under the radar was Comedor Nishi from Pancho Ibáñez and his wife Daniela.
For about a decade, Ibañez was the right-hand man of chef Enrique Olvera at Pujol in Mexico City-which has been hailed by nearly every food media outlet as one of the best restaurants on the planet. Daniela, meanwhile, was pastry chef at the revered Máximo in Mexico City (another “Top 50″ spot).
Ibáñez was hired full time as the culinary director of Showa Hospitality (The Taco Stand, Convoy Music Bar), and Comedor Nishi is his and Daniela’s Mexican breakfast-brunch-lunch spot-he soaks triple-cut brioche French toast overnight and house-cures salmon with yuzu kosho-spiked guacamole, and she bakes the pan dulces and cookies and incredible Mexican candies.
Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.
For our Best Restaurants issue, we nod to the trends that marked the year including all the top-tier talent heading to the beachside neighborhood
Weirdest thing. Travis Swikard didn’t open a French restaurant.
When he returned home to San Diego after 10 years as the right-hand to world-famous, very French chef Daniel Boulud, we all just assumed Swikard’s first restaurant would have some fermented riff on coq au vin. Instead, he went Mediterranean, North African, and Middle Eastern with gangbusters-good Callie. He needed to step out of the shadow before digging into his roots—which is what he’ll do when he opens the modern French spot Fleurette this fall at La Jolla Commons.
La Jolla is officially the Los Angeles Dodgers of San Diego’s food scene. After a long dip and some yawns, the village has started gobbling up an unreasonable amount of top-tier talent, Michelins and James Beards and Top 50s. It harkens back to the ’90s, when LJ and Hillcrest were the peak of the food scene.

Lucien opens this month, a third-floor, 30-seat tasting menu from chef Elijah Arizmendi, who worked in some of the best kitchens (Per Se, Daniel) before heading to l’abeille, where he earned a Michelin star as the chef de cuisine. Obviously hoarding restaurants as it preps for its secession, La Jolla also gets Roseacre, owned and built by two of San Diego’s most well-known designers, Paul Basile and Jules Wilson. The chef? Erik Anderson, who went through Noma and The French Laundry before helming the three-Michelin-starred Coi.
And, finally, up in Leucadia, San Diego will get a local-heroes collaboration on the more casual side of life: Chick & Hawk, the fried chicken sando concept from chef Andrew Bachelier (Atelier Manna, ex-Jeune et Jolie) and Tony Hawk, will finally open. Praise the merciful and hungry gods.
Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.
Scripps study shows that some patients may be able to taper their dose and maintain results
While glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1) receptor agents have been used to treat Type 2 diabetes for more than 20 years, their recent emergence as weight-loss wonder drugs marked a new frontier in medicine. But their effectiveness has left some patients wondering what to do once they’ve reached their goal. Stopping the medication could mean regaining some, if not all, of the weight. A Scripps Clinic internal medicine physician recently conducted a small study of whether GLP-1 patients who had reached their goal weight could maintain that weight by taking their regularly prescribed injection every other week instead of weekly. Spoiler alert: 30 of 34 patients did. Read more about the study here and what that may mean as pharmaceutical companies roll out oral GLP-1s.
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