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It may not be hip, but it has a very specific skill
The white tablecloth is the ascot of the restaurant industry. It used to make a dinner table look sophisticated. A white tablecloth said, “Your date brought you to a nice place where people with foyers in their homes dine. Sure, it’s probably a one-time thing to impress you, then it’s back to free bread sticks. But for tonight, will you please consider this white tablecloth, overlook his suspect personal hygiene and incarcerated parents, and marry him?”
A white tablecloth said, “Your dinner is worth a load of laundry because the California drought may be a myth, but your happiness, madame, is not.”
And now white tablecloths are silly and outdated. They make it look like everyone in the vicinity prefers air-fox trot to air-guitar. Now it’s like being a professional DJ who uses an MP3 player instead of a real, professional DJ setup (a MacBook). These days, every table at a restaurant comes in its birthday suit. Just plain wood. Not clean, new wood. But old, tattered wood from a barn where farm animals once did gross farm animal things. Farm animals whose lackluster performance might be the reason the barn is now a table.
The finer things are out. Old things that remind you that your grandparents are dead are in.
But there’s one thing white tablecloths do that no piece of wood can.
White tablecloths help servers by framing stray food. If a piece of chicken falls from your plate? The white tablecloth all but screams “Look here! This must be wiped up! A piece of unsightly food has mistakenly thought it was pretty enough to be table decor. It is harshing the warm, romantic buzz created by the tea lights and flowers! Hurry! Someone is in danger of being exposed as a fallible human!”
On a wooden table, crumbs just look like “distressed wood.” It reminds me of the old philosophical question: If lamb jus spills on a wooden table and no one is there to see it—who cares because it’s not like they’d be able to see it anyway.
I recently watched a piece of beef cheek sit between my date and I on the dinner table for hours. It had de-forked on its journey to my mouth. Service was otherwise perfect. Plates were removed. Water glasses were filled. But that beef cheek remained, its lumpiness accented by the weird, crusty thing that happens when hot food nears room temp. It was camouflaged against the dark wood, so the server didn’t see it. Through multiple courses, it glared, reminding me that motor skills decline with age.
After about an hour, I considered just eating it while my date was in the bathroom.
It’s not exact science, but using my own methodology (my eyes), I’ve determined that stray food on wooden tables is picked up by a server 68% less often than stray food on a white tablecloth.
Something needs to be done. Here are some ideas:
Restaurateurs, stray food camouflage is an affront to your livelihood. Your immediate attention to this epidemic is appreciated. Until something is done, I will help by bringing lighter fluid and setting stray food on fire to rid us both of the evidence.
PARTNER CONTENT
In Defense of the White Tablecloth
Grab your friends and family and head to these local venues for this season's holiday gatherings, events, and receptions
Happy holidays! It’s the season of twinkling lights, warm mugs of hot chocolate, glistening snow (up in Julian, anyway), and… your great-aunt Sheila’s terrible “famous” cranberry sauce. While cheer is in plentiful supply this time of year, so is the stress that comes with it. From gift-giving and planning to in-laws and expenses, orchestrating a holiday dinner with picky eaters and demanding extended family members can be a daunting task.
So why host? Take that turkey smoker out of your Amazon cart. Instead, book a table for 10 (or 20 or 30) at one of these crowd-friendly eateries. Whether you’re seeking an impromptu friendsgiving destination, a spacious spot for your family’s holiday dinner, or a dazzling venue fit for hosting a festive reception, here are the top restaurants in San Diego to accommodate large groups.
Overlooking the San Dieguito Lagoon, Viewpoint Brewing offers a laid-back gastropub setting perfect for sizable North County gatherings. Their roomy, dog-friendly patio is a great spot to enjoy a sunset while sipping local craft beers and munching on bar-food favorites like battered fish tacos and smoked gouda mac n’ cheese. Got all the in-laws coming? Book a private event for up to 60 people.
2201 San Dieguito Drive, Suite D, Del Mar
Home to possibly the most expansive outdoor patio space in town, Stone Brewing’s Liberty Station is a haven for large groups and parties in San Diego. While they’re known for their comprehensive draft list (featuring the salt-and-lime Buenaveza and the beloved Delicious IPA), beer isn’t the only thing on the menu at Stone.
Food offerings include fish tacos, burgers, pizzas, and salads—nontraditional holiday eats, sure, but friendly to even the pickiest diners. With amenities like a bocce ball court, an outdoor movie courtyard, koi ponds, and fire pits, the property can accommodate groups ranging from 20 guests to a staggering 1,300 people. Better start sending invites!
2816 Historic Decatur Road, Suite 116, Point Loma
Located on the north end of East Village, Punch Bowl Social offers more than 24,500 square feet of space, making it a great spot for a holiday gathering. While reservations are available, they’re often not required, as this expansive space has plenty of nooks for large groups to gather across two floors. Highlights at this downtown watering hole include a 360-degree bar, their signature fishbowl cocktails ideal for sharing, and a large menu offering something for even the pickiest eaters. Think of Punch Bowl Social as a classier Dave & Buster’s with activities like bowling, darts, ping-pong, photo booths, shuffleboard, and private karaoke rooms.
1485 E St, East Village
A hub for Sorrento Valley tech workers, Gravity Heights also suits large impromptu gatherings. The centrally located pub offers ample indoor and outdoor seating, locally brewed craft beer, and bites like wild mushroom pizza and falafel burgers. Plenty of fun and games await for groups that reserve the brewery’s private mezzanine, which is equipped with a private bar, an arcade machine, shuffleboard, a convertible pool table, and lounge seating for 18 guests (or 36 sans pool table).
9920 Pacific Heights Boulevard, Sorrento Valley
Navigating large dinners in the bustling Convoy District can be difficult, but Common Theory rises to the occasion. This Kearny Mesa brewhouse offers an Asian twist on bar cuisine with offerings like duck fat fries, sesame fried shishitos, and baked pork belly mac and cheese (plus plenty of local beer taps). A tasteful get-together spot with a parking lot, Common Theory accepts private event reservations for groups of 16 guests or more.
4805 Convoy Street, Clairemont Mesa
Nestled at the end of the Shelter Island peninsula, Bali Hai offers bay-front scenery and island vibes perfect for you and your closest 200 friends. If you’re a San Diego local, chances are you have attended a wedding reception or rehearsal dinner here (and had one too many of their famously potent mai tais). The 69-year-old establishment offers a diverse assortment of Hawaiian-inspired event spaces available for reservation, including the South Pacific Room (200 guests) featuring a bamboo dance floor, the Hawaiian Village with an outdoor pavilion and private bar (200 guests), or the more private Tiki Room (28 guests).
2230 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island
Cole Novak is an award-winning writer with a passion for highlighting local figures, small businesses, and nonprofits. Born and raised in San Diego, Cole is passionate about photography, surfing, art, the local food scene, and the great outdoors.
Celebrated bartender Beau du Bois launches Puesto’s latest project inspired by the flavors of Mexico City
The Michelin Guide finally clued in to what the rest of the world has known all along—Mexico City is, hands down, one of the best places to eat and drink anywhere on the planet.
That’s exactly why Beau du Bois looked to CDMX’s culinary capital—the Roma Norte neighborhood—for the name and inspiration behind Roma Norte, Puesto’s brand-new 21+ bar concept at The Headquarters at Seaport Village, which officially opens Friday, July 26.
Roma Norte’s sprawling interior spans 2,000 square feet, anchored with a moody dark brown marble bar and seating for 60. The vibe feels mysterious, yet charming, utilizing elements like rich velvet furniture, bronze accents, and antique mirrors for an ambiance inspired by Mexico City’s iconic architecture and melded with a modern San Diego feel.
It’s luxe. It’s intriguing. It’s super sexy, no doubt about it, and best experienced sans sunlight. “The meat and potatoes of its personality is after dark,” du Bois promises. From the moment you step inside, he wants you to feel immersed in the experience, starting with an oshibori hot towel service to start fresh, literally and figuratively.
The superstar bar director is already the vice president of bar & spirits at Puesto and Marisi and has created award-winning cocktail programs at places like The Restaurant at Meadowood, the three Michelin-starred restaurant at the Meadowood Napa Valley resort. But he says he’s never created anything like Roma Norte before.
Working alongside director of bar logistics, Derek Cram, the final cocktail menu reads like the pages of a well-stamped passport. Nearly 70 unique drinks are divided between what they refer to as “Technique Driven” and “House,” plus four additional mocktails. Du Bois is already known for his Taco Truck cocktail, a riff on a Negroni using mezcal with Campari infused with cinnamon and pineapple. “For the opening of Roma Norte, we did an NA version of that which is really, surprisingly, very, very good,” he promises.
Developing world-class cocktails with, and especially without alcohol, can be “an extreme challenge,” he says, but one that only helps hone the team’s skills and caters to the growing demand for equally balanced alcohol-free creations. “The tagline for Roma Norte is ‘every day is a school day,’ because we’re just constantly learning.”
Technique-driven dominates the menu, with selections like a Nitro Punch with mango, nitro-muddled hoja santa, lime and lemon juice, Champagne cordial, Park Pineau des Charentes, Macchu Pisco, and singani; or du Bois’ arguably most unexpected addition—his take on a rum and coke that’s perfectly clear. Made with milk-washed Bacardi 8 and Banks 7 rum, house-made cola, clarified lime cordial, and an ice spear, it’s definitely one that’ll use your eyes to fool your tongue.
Even the House cocktails are anything but basic. From a banana daiquiri clarified using a centrifuge “the size of a Xerox printer” to the Rosetta with unaged apple brandy, milk cordial, and a whole bunch of other amazing sounding things, it’s clear that scientists and spirit lovers alike have something to look forward to.
That emphasis on innovation in flavor, technique, execution, service, and even technology and equipment is something du Bois says will set his small team apart from anywhere else in San Diego. He admits he’s asking a lot of them, constantly pushing them to evolve, hone their understanding of chemistry, and experiment with unexpected tools (like said centrifuges). But after training at Roma Norte, “they’ll be in the top five percent of bartenders in the country, easily,” he claims. “These things have to be learned. They have to be demonstrated and shown, and it’s just not happening at this level, [with] this many cocktails, at any bar in San Diego.”
Although Roma Norte is a Puesto-adjacent project, don’t expect any overlap from the menu. Alongside du Bois’ concoctions are chef Erik Aronow’s creations, a collection of small plates specifically designed to go along with the star of the show—the drinks. Expect a few heartier plates like a carne crudo, a prime diced hanger steak with birria-spiced aioli, shimeji mushroom, and radish sprout, or the torta de Milanesa that features veal on a potato roll and topped with spicy cabbage, avocado, cilantro green chile aioli, and pickled onions. There’s plenty of seafood, too, like tostadas with scallops or yellowfin tuna specifically designed to be shared.
For the late-night crowd, Aronow has a few lighthearted bites like Flamin’ Hot Corn Nuts served with housemade crunchy hominy and a cheesy spice blend. Du Bois says that appealing to dinner and late-night crowds, as well as industry folks who get off work late at night is something he believes San Diego’s bar scene lacks, especially compared to Los Angeles, New York, and yes, Mexico City. “It’s just not a cocktail bar if you’re not open later in the evening,” he says. “That’s the DNA of a cocktail bar.” Is Roma Norte the answer? du Bois says yes.
“From the moment you’re seated at Roma Norte, we’re taking you off the streets of San Diego and into the vibrant culture of Roma Norte,” he says. “We want Roma Norte to be a consistent option for people in San Diego to trust that it will be open until two in the morning.”
Roma Norte opens Friday, July 26 at 789 W Harbor Drive, Unit 155 in The Headquarters. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Reservations are available on Roma Norte’s website, OpenTable, and Sevenrooms. Adults 21 years old and up only.
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Plus, Bica turns one, vegan market mania, and more food and drink news
Seekers of certain cuisines will find all they desire in San Diego. We have killer Mexican. We’ve got plenty of excellent Middle Eastern spots in El Cajon and all sorts of regional Asian dishes across Convoy and Little Saigon, and plus a bonanza of Italian eateries, a trove of Japanese treasures, and a growing number of Filipino options.
But look for other cultural cuisines—Laotian, Basque, or Hawaiian, for instance—and the city offers few choices. Luckily, lovers of the latter will add one more option to the roster this summer: The Haole Shack opens at 707 Grand Avenue in Pacific Beach in early August.
The Haole Shack is located directly adjacent to PB Shore Club at the corner of Grand Avenue and Ocean Boulevard. Grind & Prosper Hospitality (Louisiana Purchase, Coco Maya) operates both businesses. The Haole Shack’s director of operations, Ben Carroccio, says the restaurant’s menu of Hawaiian-inspired eats will be available all day through late night onsite and at PB Shore Club once its own kitchen closes.
“We’re hoping to introduce a great, quick-service option for burgers, teriyaki bowls, and shaved ice, whether you’re off to the beach, waiting in line at PB Shore Club, or looking for late-night grub,” Carroccio explains. He says the group aims to create a retro, ’80s-esque Hawaiian beach shack inspired by the founder’s recent trips to the island state.
The menu will focus on smashburgers (single and double), teriyaki bowls, and shaved ice. Diners will also find black bean burgers and “Double Shaka” dirty fries with tri-tip, chicken, kook sauce, green onions, and sesame seeds over french fries. Teriyaki bowls include chicken, tofu, or tri-tip with steamed vegetables, kimchi-seasoned fried rice, togarashi, teriyaki, and kook sauce. Food will be available to go from the counter, but the space also offers patio parklet seating for 16 people. However, I recommend bringing a blanket and enjoying your bites only a few feet away on the sand.
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Ember & Rye is back. It’s celebrating a grand re-opening inside the Park Hyatt Aviara with two events this week. The first, “BBQ with Blais,” takes place Sunday, July 14, from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. Chef Richard Blais will demonstrate how to hone some serious grill skills. Then, on Thursday, July 18, he’ll guide guests through a four-course meal with cocktails from 6:30 to 9 p.m. Tickets for both events and reservations for regular dining are available on Ember & Rye’s website.
North Park’s Vegan Market returns this Saturday, July 13, from noon to 4 p.m. at 3812 29th Street. You’ll find more than just vegan goodies—the event is also a vinyl record fair, brought to you by Chakasonica Fronterizx Vinyl Collective. Come hungry and ready to dig through thousands of LPs and 45s for the perfect score.
Happy birthday, Bica! The Adams Avenue eatery turns one on Sunday, July 14, and it’s throwing an all-day party to celebrate. From 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., expect vendors, giveaways, and live music, followed by DJs, tapas, and tattoos in the evening.
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
The annual event honors middle market companies creating jobs, scaling up, and investing in the region
San Diego is known for its startup culture and innovation economy, but what happens when the company moves beyond its early-stage years? The San Diego Business Impact Awards aim to answer that question, spotlighting the middle market businesses helping drive the region’s economy.
Hosted by San Diego Regional Economic Development Corporation (EDC) and JPMorganChase, the second annual awards celebration takes place on Thursday, July 23, from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m. at Scripps Research Auditorium. More than 200 executives, entrepreneurs, and business leaders are expected to attend the networking and cocktail event honoring some of San Diego County’s fastest-growing companies.
Businesses headquartered in San Diego County that have operated for at least two years are encouraged to submit their nomination by Thursday, June 18 at 4 p.m. Companies across industries—from technology and life sciences to tourism and consumer products, as well as pre-revenue startups—are eligible for recognition.
For EDC President and CEO Mark Cafferty, the event is as much about building connections as celebrating success. “We’ve had a longtime partnership with JPMorganChase; their work aligns with our efforts to support underserved communities and drive talent development,” says Cafferty. “And the networking was invaluable last year. I’m still in touch with people I met at last year’s awards.”
EDC is an independently-funded nonprofit that works directly with San Diego companies to help them grow the local economy, make the region as a whole more competitive, and attract and retain top-tier talent with quality jobs. Through EDC, companies can get help starting or expanding their business with support for things like site selection, permit navigation, and regulatory guidance, plus connections to local resources and potential business collaborators.
The San Diego Business Impact Awards began as an idea with one of EDC’s longtime strategic partners, JPMorganChase. The two organizations share a commitment to San Diego and are dedicated to bolstering middle market businesses.
“We’re blessed with a robust innovation economy and startup community,” says Aaron Ryan, San Diego Region Manager for JPMorgan’s Commercial and Investment Bank and vice chair of the firm’s’ San Diego Market Leadership Team. “But one of the segments of the business community we felt was overlooked was emerging middle market companies—the businesses that are no longer small but not yet large.”
Ryan says supporting those companies is critical as they scale and decide where to invest, hire, and grow.
San Diego’s high cost of living remains one of the region’s biggest business challenges, making talent recruitment and retention increasingly competitive. But local leaders point to the region’s quality of life, climate, and collaborative business community as advantages that continue to attract employers and workers.
“In order to support thriving households, there has to be enough high-quality jobs for people to be able to afford to live here,” Cafferty says. “Once a company grows and excels past that middle market point in their growth cycle, they become much more likely to pay higher wages and compete globally.”
Both Cafferty and Ryan proudly tout the unique collaboration that exists among San Diego County businesses. Bringing together top universities producing high-quality talent, cutting-edge research institutions, a robust military and defense presence, leading ocean science and environmental organizations, and a binational, cross-border identity creates a distinct business ecosystem that defines and strengthens the San Diego region.
Last year’s San Diego Business Impact Awards celebrated nearly 60 honorees from 49 industries, representing a total of 8,232 jobs across eight sectors, including: software and technology, healthcare and life sciences, consumer goods, professional services, finance, construction and manufacturing, defense, and hospitality and tourism. On average, honoree companies doubled their revenues over the previous year, employed more than 145 San Diegans each, and offered an average annual compensation of $192,415.
Top honorees included defense contractor Innoflight, environmental consulting firm Bancroft Construction Services, life sciences startup Element Biosciences, defense technology contractor GALT Aerospace, organic grocery store chain Jimbo’s, and biopharmaceutical company LENZ Therapeutics. During the event, Innoflight Founder and CEO Jeff Janicik held a fireside chat offering his insights on investing in the community and embracing San Diego culture.
This year, organizers hope to continue highlighting the middle market players driving economic impact across the region. Nominations are now open through June 18 at 4 p.m. Get your tickets to the San Diego Business Impact Awards celebration to enjoy drinks by Snake Oil Cocktail Co., light bites, live music, and networking.
Our list of the top must-try tea houses for a royally good time filled with mini sandwiches, pastries, and chic China
San Diego boasts a diverse tea house scene, from trendy urban spots to elegant hotel lobbies. I can’t say no to a pastry or a good cup of tea, so I recently started exploring the popular spots around town.
Whether you’re a tea aficionado or just looking to chill in a charming spot with a kettle and crumpets, our city’s tea culture has something for everyone. Nothing beats dressing up and feeling like the queen of England, so here’s our list of 13 must-try tea houses for a royally good time.
This restaurant in Sorrento Valley marries the tastes of London and California. Its tea time offers a great deal: $52 for two people gets you a scrumptious tea tower stacked with pastries and sandwiches, plus two pots of tea so you and your tablemate can sample different types. If you’re extra hungry, additional sandwiches can be added à la carte, but the tower should suffice, and you’ll likely take leftover pastries home.
This charming and cozy space in downtown Escondido wins in the variety category, with an eclectic mix of more than 40 loose-leaf teas served in elegant teacups and lacy décor straight out of a Pinterest board. Get the Cream Tea with fruit, a lemon pastry, and freshly steeped tea, or the two-hour Grand Tea, which includes soup, sandwiches, pastries, and tea. Prices range from $17 to $42, so your tea party won’t break the bank, either.
This quaint historic house in Balboa Park offers three fancy tea services: the Queen’s High Tea ($50) includes the most food, but the $40 Afternoon Tea will still set you up with sandwiches, desserts, and scones served with Devonshire cream and lemon curd. The $23 Princess and Prince Tea involves smaller portions for little ones ages 5 to 8.
Aubrey Rose’s fine china game is on point, turning your average tea time into an upscale affair without the pretentious price tag. Nestled in La Mesa, this quaint spot serves afternoon tea for $43 per person, including a seasonal soup, an accompanying savory, a three-tiered tray, and loose-leaf tea. Your pinky finger may lift itself out of sheer delight, and you’ll leave feeling fancy without your wallet shedding a tear.
The décor here resembles the home of your grandma’s chic, artsy friend—cozy yet strangely sophisticated. Bonus points, too, for the relaxing vibes and adorably Lilliputian portions. $35 per adult gets you savories, scones, fruit, and tea inspired by European tradition but fit for Southern Californians.
The experiences seem endless at Britannia Tea Rooms. Available only to private parties, the colorful and fabulously eccentric Mad Hatter’s tea room is basically an Instagram filter brought to life. If you’re not looking to throw a full-scale tea party of your very own, book the afternoon tea for $53 per person and munch on a starter, sandwiches, and sweets. Also check out their rotating themed teas inspired by holidays and beloved movies, shows, and books.
A departure from the British sipping experience, Paru offers Japanese tea services. The shop hosts tea sessions, or mini tea tastings, where you can sample the monthly rotating specialty teas, including loose leaf and matcha options, for only $20 per person. The shop is a digital-free zone, eliminating the temptation to let your phone drink first.
A hidden gem at this maximalist brunch spot, the afternoon tea service is one of the best deals is town. Skip the two-hour brunch line in the morning and instead enjoy tea, deviled eggs, pastries, and finger sandwiches for only $15 per person.
Tea is best paired with desserts. This modern twist on tea time includes tantalizing toasts, decadent desserts, and the option to add a bubbly sidekick, making it the sweetest sip experience in town. Extrordinary Desserts’ high tea is available only on weekdays from 2:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. for $45 per person.
Afternoon tea at the Westgate Hotel is a timeless and elegant experience, complete with opulent surrounds that aren’t too far off from a castle. For $55 per person, you can nibble on finger sandwiches, pastries, and macarons. Get dressed up and spend your weekend living like a noble.
Molly Delmore is a freelance writer and content creator from San Diego. When she’s not checking out San Diego’s newest restaurants, bars, and shops, she’s planning her next trip to the mountains to snowboard or a new country to explore. Her work has been featured in San Diego Magazine, Mashed, and Tasting Table.
Finding piano ghosts and lovely things at Bird Rock’s marquee eatery, Paradisaea
Paradisaea is one of those restaurants that’s so beautiful you feel a reptile-brain rush of envy and lust, but also a touch of anger and maybe a brief mental slideshow of your own failings as a person of design. You look at this place and remember you nailed a dream catcher to your wall at home and called it a day six years ago. From the tiles to the furniture to the large format art, it all seems custom-made, and it works. (Except maybe the neon logo that looks caught somewhere between tiki font and the Def Leppard emblem.)
The caesar salad they serve here comes with jalapeños and an Al-Pacino-doing-coke-in-Scarface amount of Parmesan. It is glorious.
But back to the room. It is the friend whose shirt never has lint. Lint wouldn’t dare. Lint leaves the shirt of this place and jumps onto your shirt. The chairs are army green or martini olive green, warm yet also nontraditional—interesting enough to practice polyamory. Or maybe the color was invented specifically for this room because none of the rest of us could be trusted with this color. In our hands, it would’ve looked like an army surplus store.
The market oysters, meaning whichever are particularly thriving at that moment, are also very good. The accompanying yuzu kosho granité is the killer here. Yuzu is a tart Asian lemon, and yuzu kosho is a godly paste made from fermented chiles, salt, and yuzu zest. Mignonette, Tabasco, and grocery store lemons do fine, workmanlike work. This is the spiritual enlightenment of that idea.
“This restaurant is the friend whose shirt never has lint. Lint wouldn’t dare. Lint leaves the shirt of this place and jumps onto your shirt.”
This place used to be a piano showroom. Before Americans started buying our pianos and consumer thrills from Jeff Bezos, each American city had a glossy little piano farm. You walked in and someone was tickling the ivories beautifully, filling you with the spirit that you, too, might fancy a tickle. You sat down on one of those pianos and played the first few bars of Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin’” and stopped after a few seconds because you never learned the rest of the song (that fact has led to more than one romantic breakup in your life).
Large humans would deliver the piano to your house, where you played it furiously for six or seven days until you could do crimes because your fingerprints were rubbed fresh off. Then, for the next six or seven years, the piano would just kinda sit there, taking up an immodest amount of space (but looking really shiny and projecting your family’s false-front of artsiness) until you eventually forced it on some gullible relative who also enjoys musical delusions of grandeur.
Now that the place is Paradisaea, there’s still a piano in the room, and every Wednesday the principal of Rancho Bernardo High School comes down to play for everyone. After long days of contouring the brilliant and terrifying minds of teenagers, I bet playing here is therapy.
But, on most nights, the music you hear in this room is the ice being rhythmically thrashed about in the bartender’s shakers—that rocky-wet siren song of loose lips. The music is the sizzle and sear of hot pans in the open kitchen. The music is the muffled cultural discussions and gentle insider trading of Bird Rock regulars.
The bartenders make a damn good martini. Drink it while eating the carrots in smoked yogurt—a dish made well in many places around town (Fort Oak famously does a great one), simultaneously smoky and tangy and creamy and carrot-sweet. It’s a dish that makes us moan, tottering on that thin threshold between eating dinner and soundtracking smut.
Dry-aging fish is a fringe kitchen art that’s catching on (it’s honestly an ancient thing—sushi only gets its trademark silkiness by aging a bit). When you age it, it doesn’t get “fishier” in that moldy-dock sort of way; it’s just more rich and luscious. Paradisaea’s amberjack crudo comes with oro blanco (grapefruit-adjacent), shaved fennel, charred avocado, and burnt citrus oil. Fresh, bright, and burnt. That’s a good thing.
I didn’t much care for the Ora King salmon. That was a tad fishy. But the 28-day ribeye with potato pave and morel mushrooms is an old song played well.
The steak knives are engraved with their island–Def Leppard logo on the side of the blade. That couldn’t have been cheap. You should probably just order the chefs’ tasting menu (at $105 for five courses, it has to be one of the best deals in the city)—each bite seems to come with its own custom utensil.
Troy Johnson is the magazine’s award-winning food writer and humorist, and a long-standing expert on Food Network. His work has been featured on NatGeo, Travel Channel, NPR, and in Food Matters, a textbook of the best American food writing.
Scripps study shows that some patients may be able to taper their dose and maintain results
While glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1) receptor agents have been used to treat Type 2 diabetes for more than 20 years, their recent emergence as weight-loss wonder drugs marked a new frontier in medicine. But their effectiveness has left some patients wondering what to do once they’ve reached their goal. Stopping the medication could mean regaining some, if not all, of the weight. A Scripps Clinic internal medicine physician recently conducted a small study of whether GLP-1 patients who had reached their goal weight could maintain that weight by taking their regularly prescribed injection every other week instead of weekly. Spoiler alert: 30 of 34 patients did. Read more about the study here and what that may mean as pharmaceutical companies roll out oral GLP-1s.
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