I recalled Colima mostly in senses: the sweet scent of ripe guava, the croak of white-lipped frogs and itch of mosquito bites, the patter of rain on a neighbor’s pool, surrounded by lush gardens. Monolingual, I couldn’t speak much to my grandmother, with whom I share a name, but I remember her hugs and the way she’d let my brother and I splash in the dish basin in her open-air kitchen, which sat on the edge of the large, grassy courtyard in the heart of her house.

I was in college when word came that she’d passed. Sadly, we hadn’t talked in over a decade. I regretted that I’d never really known her, and over time I felt myself longing to better understand her world. I downloaded the Duolingo app and logged lessons day after day for years, building upon several semesters of middle school Spanish.

Still, even as my language skills grew, other reasons kept me from returning to Colima. I’m not on good terms with my father, and I wasn’t sure how his side of the family would receive me. And, then, the fact that I’m gay. My Mexican relatives represented a whole swath of new—very Catholic—people to come out to.

But I knew I’d regret not trying. I messaged my dad’s younger sister Raquel on Facebook, asking if I could come visit. I mentioned my girlfriend and did not mention my dad.

“Por supuesto,” she wrote back quickly. Of course.

I look like my tía Raquel. The thought surprised me the first time it occurred, as I fastened a hoop earring below my slicked-back bun. It dangled above the collar of my oversized white button-down.

I hadn’t seen Raquel since I was 11, and I couldn’t quite picture her face. But I recognized in the ensemble touches of the casually glamorous style that I envied as a child. And it seems other people see it, too. When I step into Mexican-owned businesses—fruterías, coffee shops—dressed like her, cashiers greet me in Spanish. If I’m in my winter turtlenecks, my fine hair loose around my shoulders, people seem to see my white American mother more than my Mexican father. They say “Good morning” instead of “Buenos días.” It makes me curious who I really resemble.

At Raquel’s large, modern house in Colima’s capital city of the same name, I finally have a chance to search her face, wondering what features we might share. Bound by my so-so Spanish skills, I try not to be frustrated that I can’t yet ask everything I want to know about her childhood, her memories, the sort of person my grandmother really was.

She’s patient, though, as I stumble over conjugations, and she shows me a picture of her daughter Celeste and a young woman I don’t recognize. “That’s Celeste’s girlfriend, Marcella,” she tells me.

I stifle a gasp. I’d had no idea Celeste dated women. I realize she paved the way for that unblinking “of course.”

Raquel digs out old photo albums, showing me my abuela at 6 or 7, looking solemn in a school photo, then my uncle Reyes, Raquel’s husband, who’d died of Covid. It’s hard with the language barrier, but I can see shades of it: her enormous grief and, simultaneously, her peace and strength. All this I’ve missed, I think, while hiding in California.

At some point, I realize I’ve lost one of my hoop earrings.

I search the house and Raquel’s car. I file a report with the airline. But it doesn’t turn up, and I comfort myself with the departed jewelry’s narrative power: a thing symbolizing my link to this place, left behind somewhere in Mexico.

I ’d love to tell you that Comala hasn’t changed, that, when we visit, I’m able to slip back into the world of my childhood memories. In some ways, I am. There’s still the picturesque town square, bordered by little shops hawking local sea salt and fragrant leather huaraches. The white-and-yellow chapel where I was baptized stands as proud as ever. The people still wave hello to one another in the cobblestone streets.

However, cartel activity has increased in recent years. Colima now has one of the highest crime rates in Mexico. I don’t feel unsafe, but there’s a newly anxious undercurrent here.

And, at my abuela’s house, her absence is palpable. Spiny weeds have overtaken her once-verdant courtyard. I walk to the kitchen, though, and see the familiar dish basin. I dip my fingers in and remember her lifting me up so I could peer at the water’s surface. We didn’t need words for me to know she loved me.

Colima at a Glance

A beautiful green territory dwarfed by neighbors Jalisco and Michoacán, Colima has the smallest population in Mexico. Once home to a number of pre-colonial civilizations, the state is known for charming red pottery figures of round-bellied dogs. Two volcanoes—referred to as “fire and ice” because one is active and the other is dormant—perch at Colima’s border, and lush rainforests and orchards cover much of its land. Colima is Mexico’s primary producer of limes. Biodiversity abounds here, and visitors may see reptile species like crocodiles, iguanas, and sea turtles.

If you find yourself in Colima, visit the port city of Manzanillo to snorkel amid coral reefs and shipwrecks. About an hour from the state’s capital, El Tortugario Centro Ecologico de Cuyutlan gives tourists the chance to say hello to rescued sea turtles, take a boat tour of a lagoon teeming with wildlife, and even release freshly hatched turtles safely into the sea. See Colima’s famous dog statues and other archeological finds at the Colima City Regional History Museum. For more art and history, explore the small but lovely Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo Miguel University Museum, a garden-flocked hacienda showcasing the artist’s furniture designs and slightly surreal lithographs of children in traditional dress. Afterward, shop for artisan creations and sample local eats in the friendly little town of Comala.

When I was small, my family and I used to pass entire days at Las Hamacas del Mayor, a beachside restaurant in the agricultural region of Tecomán.

I recognize it the moment we pull up: the giant clamshell at the entrance, the pool with a dolphin-shaped waterslide, the tables laden with whole fried dorados.

After lunch, Celeste and I walk down the beach, its sand charcoal-black from the nearby volcano. In the distance, I think I see a rainbow flag. I figure it must mean something different here—after all, a gay bar? In rural Mexico? But as we get close, I spot drag queens dancing on a makeshift stage in Rockette bodysuits.

We stand and watch for a while. I want to tell Celeste what it means to me to share this with her. Though my mother’s family welcomes my girlfriend during the holidays, I’d always felt the unspoken difference of my queerness. Now I see I’m no longer alone.

It feels like too much, so I stay silent, but we both smile as the queens twirl.

My father lives in Comala, but I don’t see him. He remains a casual elephant in the room—I don’t talk about him, and neither does anyone else. Finally, over breakfast on my final day, Raquel spends a long time typing something on her phone. She passes it to me, a translation app open. “How are things with your dad?” the screen reads. “You don’t have to tell me, but you can always talk to me.”

“We haven’t spoken in years,” I admit in Spanish. “I don’t want to see him. Maybe next time.”

She nods. “Of course.” Then, fervently, in English: “I’m with you. Always. You come first.” Even after all this time goes unspoken.

Hours later at the airport, when I hug her tight and promise to come back soon, I hope she knows how much I mean it.

At home in San Diego, I dig through my jewelry dish, seeking a pair to replace my now-lonely hoop—only to find its errant twin. Apparently, I’d forgotten to put it on days before. It was never missing; simply waiting, primed to be rediscovered. I snap it into place. Then I let down my hair and look in the mirror. All the women in my family stare back.

The post Finding Family Heritage (& Losing an Earring) in Mexico appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

And while each San Diego surf spot has a handful of nicknames assigned by locals, Baja surf spots are often identified by the kilometer marker along Highway 1 (K-38, K-42, K-55, and so on), as thousands of waves extend beyond surfers’ dominion. So, grab your board, wax, and pesos, and embark on an adventure to Baja California’s best surf spots. 

Tips for Surfing in Baja California

• Get car insurance and consider renting a car if your vehicle isn’t equipped with a reliable suspension. If you’re planning on venturing further south, four-by-four drivetrains and wheels of 15-plus inches are highly recommended.
• Respect the locals in and out of the water, and touch up on your Spanish. Here are a few helpful phrases to know:
  • ola de izquierda: left wave
  • ola de derecho: right wave 
  • boya: kook
  • lo siento: I’m sorry
• Pack adequate food and water, especially if you’re venturing deep into Baja California Sur. You never know when you’ll pass the last mercado or convenience store.
• Make photo copies of your passport, ID, and credit cards in case of emergency.
• Use ATMs at reputable banks in Mexico to get the best exchange rate. ATMs will ask you if you accept their conversion rate. Select “No” and you’ll have the option to use your own bank’s conversion rate, which is typically better.
• Buy bottled water at the start of your trip. Tap water quality is notoriously unregulated in parts of Mexico, so use caution.
• Bring sunscreen and a first aid kit.

Baja California Norte Surf Spots

Baja Malibu 

Malibu without the crowds? Sign me up. Contrary to its name, Baja Malibu isn’t a peeling canvas for longboarders to dance across. Instead, it’s a fast-breaking beach break ideal for shortboards. Just 30 miles south of downtown San Diego and southwest of Tijuana, it is many San Diegans’ first stop in the search for Baja waves. This spot packs serious heat, given a solid south swell and even some barrel time for those who can make the drop. Pack your shortboard and paddle out into world-class waves. Afterwards, stop by Bullies Patisserie or burger bar Plan B for fuel and start all over again tomorrow. 

Type of Surf Break: Beach break

Skill Level: Advanced

Ideal Tide: Mid

K-38

One of Northern Baja’s most beloved waves is a reliable, bowly right known simply as K-38. Just 25 miles south of Rosarito, this popular point break dishes up waves across four peaks known as The Point, The Left, Maria’s, and Theresa’s, which provide consistent rides year-round. Consider wearing booties to avoid grating your feet on the rocks and watch out for sea urchins ready to sting you on a wipeout at low tide. Just up the street, K-38 is home to its own surf shop, motel for lodging, and a Surfline cam, making it one of Baja’s more accessible waves.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Reef with rocks

Ideal Tide: Mid or low

Rosarito Beach

If downing tequila shots and dancing at bumpin’ beachside restaurant Papas & Beer til midnight, then paddling out six hours later sounds appealing, Rosarito Beach is your spot. Often known for its lively nightlife and popularity as a destination for expats, Rosarito can provide fun waves and sandbars to ride if paired with a proper combo swell. Pollution can be a factor here after rainy days, and booties are recommended—not to protect you from submerged hazards, but from a smattering of relics in the sand from partiers and local horseback tours.

Skill Level: Beginner

Type of Surf Break: Beach break

Ideal Tide: Mid

Salsipuedes

Perched on some of Northern Baja’s steepest cliffs, Salsipuedes translates to “leave if you can.” Heed the locals’ advice and bring a four-by-four vehicle with proper tread, a big wave gun or step-up, and a renewed health insurance policy if you plan on visiting during a powerful southwest swell. Surfers can access this spot through the Playa Saldamando campground for around $19 per night—or via a friend’s boat, if you’re so lucky. Salsipuedes transforms into a surfer’s paradise when bigger swells hit the point. To the north is a fun A-frame breaking over a reef, and further south is a point break with hollow rights sure to evoke Baja euphoria. 

Skill Level: Advanced

Type of Surf Break: Point break and reef

Ideal Tide: Low

La Fonda

Baja is a regular-footers paradise, home to endless rights, but here’s one for the goofy-footers. This exposed rivermouth point break hosts a left that’s only 58 miles from downtown San Diego. Pay for parking at the Alisitos K-58 campsite, scope the waves from the cliffs, and paddle out to an empty peak (if you can find one). La Fonda is a gem when a solid west or south swell hits and can get crowded when it’s pumping. Visit La Mision for fish tacos and a cerveza in this small pueblo community just a few minutes inland to end a relaxing day of surfing. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Point break

Ideal Tide: Mid

Baja California Sur Surf Spots

Scorpion Bay

For more seasoned vagabonds traveling down the Baja coastline, stop by Scorpion Bay for a glimpse of longboarding heaven. This point break has been heralded as one of Mexico’s best surf spots, but those drawn there must be prepared for ungraded dirt roads, limited reception, and long stretches of emptiness. Rows of waves curl into this peculiar bay, breaking over a tabletop slab—a mirage in a landscape painted with sand dunes, distant plateaus, and a handful of local fishing vessels. Visitors can camp on the point for around $200 pesos per person for prime beach access or stay in a bungalow in the quaint town of San Juanico. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Point break

Ideal Tide: Low or mid

Playa Los Cerritos

Journey north on your next trip to Los Cabos to ride waves at the pleasant beach of Los Cerritos. The spot, known for its iconic Hacienda Cerritos hotel atop the cliffs, attracts flocks of surfers of all skill levels while providing a sandy beach for land-faring travel companions. The main peak breaks over sandbars, offering mellow waves, while the southern reef peak provides more lip for advanced surfers. After a session, paddle in and grab a few fish tacos and a margarita to enjoy on the water.

Skill Level: Beginner

Type of Surf Break: Beach break and reef

Ideal Tide: Mid to high

The post The Best Surf Spots in Baja California appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

Fiercely protective of the mostly untouched interior, locals like myself and transplants alike (Matthew McConaghey is often spotted around town in Waimea) are often hesitant to share favorite hidden gems. Respect for the ‘aina (land) is a central tenet of Hawaiian culture and Western tourists tend to take advantage of the island’s expansive beauty and sheer remoteness. The old adage “Leave it better than you found it” is forgotten, along with trash and common decency. 

So, before diving into a list of the best things to do on the Big Island of Hawaii, here are a few tips to ensure you’re visiting responsibly: 

Tips for Visiting Hawaii

• Pick up your trash and “take only photos, leave only footprints”
• Respect the locals, their land, and their rules 
• Don’t drive like you’re in the city, most highways are 55 MPH
• Wear reef-safe sunscreen only and don’t wear any sunscreen at all in fresh water bodies of water
• Do not take anything natural off the island (shells, stones, coral, dried flowers, etc.) especially lava rocks—Pele’s Curse is very real 

Now that the ground rules are out of the way, these under-the-radar activities will have you seriously considering whether you could break your lease and work remotely. 

Eagles Nest (Wai’ale Falls)

This swimmable, easily accessible roadside waterfall is located right outside of Hilo. It is free, which means the trails aren’t maintained, so it’s a little treacherous getting down to the waterfall to swim. Doable, and worth it, but you’ve been warned.

Pololu Valley Hike

This breathtaking 1.5-mile roundtrip hike drops you into a river valley complete with a sprawling black sand beach and wild cows. Be sure not to venture up the hill beyond the river mouth, as these are sacred burial grounds of the native Hawaiians who once inhabited the valley. Also note that this is not a swimming beach, rough currents and jellyfish are a regular occurrence. Make a stop at Rainbow Cafe in Kapaau on the way out for an authentic Hawaiian/Chinese plate lunch.

Reed’s Bay Beach Park aka “Ice Ponds”

Swimmable, crystal clear, and, you guessed it, ice cold—these freshwater ponds in Hilo are perfect for a picnic and swim. The closer you get to the ocean, the warmer the water gets. Nene geese and sea turtles frequent the beach park, but please do not attempt to touch or get close to them. 

Big Island Farmers Markets

Produce grown on the Big Island is unmatched in flavor and variety, thanks to the ultra-rich volcanic soil and generous rainfall. You can find tropical fruits, eggs, honey, huge leafy vegetables and the like at one of the many farmers markets on any given day across the island. Hilo Waterfront Market (everyday), Waimea Market (Pukalani Stables Wednesdays and Saturdays), and Volcano Village Market (Sundays) are some of the best markets in terms of variety and accessibility. 

Big Island Skateparks

Love to skate? Bring your board and take an island-wide tour of the many skateparks the island has to offer. From Roots Skatepark in Kapaau to Shaka Paka in Hilo, and the legendary Kailua-Kona Skatepark, the Big Island has a booming skate community and the facilities to match. Fun fact: Roots Skatepark is completely community-funded and operated. 

Kaloko Cloud Forest

High above Konatown on the dormant volcano of Hualalai lays the lush Honuaʻula Forest Reserve. The scenic seven-mile drive takes you to the trailhead where miles of forest is yours for exploring on foot or mountain bike. Be aware of weather as it changes rapidly and what once began as a pleasant, sunny afternoon can become a thick, dark fog or heavy downpour in what feels like a matter of moments. 

Kiholo Bay

This brackish water bay is accessible with a short oceanfront hike. The milky turquoise water is the result of freshwater mixing with salt water and known for its bountiful sea turtle population. If you follow this hike, you will also see a black sand beach, abandoned beach shanty, and the bay itself, which is actually an ancient fishing pond used by native Hawaiians. Petroglyphs dot the lava rocks surrounding the bay, so be on the lookout.

Honaunau Bay 

Walk the ancient city and historical landmarks of the Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park first, then cool off at Two Steps and do some snorkeling. The reef is one of the best on the island, and in the deeper waters you can often see dolphins. There is a sandy area for children, but no facilities other than a Porta-Potty. 

Honomu Goat Dairy

Check out the Honomu Goat Dairy where you can frolic with baby goats and buy some handmade goat cheese, milk, fudge, caramels, soap, or lip balm. It’s free to enter, and right off the side of the road on the way to Akaka Falls (which you should also visit!)

The post 9 Non-Touristy Things To Do on the Big Island of Hawaii appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

I probably look like one of the jesters, grinning maniacally as we approach the Clown Motel in Tonopah, Nevada, excited by its lurid exterior décor. Massive wooden clowns leer from the sides of the building. Its backlit sign appears to have been colored with Magic Markers. Themed rooms declare their horror movie affiliation: It, The Exorcist, Friday the 13th.

My girlfriend, Michaela, does not share my enthusiasm. Ensconced in the non-themed Room 103, beneath a painting of a red-nosed Freddie Mercury, I sleep soundly, dreaming, while Michaela lays rigid with terror, not even getting up to pee.

I’m here, paradoxically, in search of artifice. Visiting family as a kid, I was charmed by the raggedy roadside attractions on the drive from California to New Mexico—“trading posts,” a shriveled mummy—only to find out many were owned by the same corporate overlords. The American West, I decided pessimistically, is mostly an invention, a case of life imitating art.

The Clown Motel, for its part, certainly leans into its theme and trucks in rumors of its haunted history. But it was borne of a real-life clown obsession: Leona and Leroy David founded it in the 1980s, honoring their father, who’d died in a mine fire, by establishing his 150 collectable clowns as an onsite museum.

The motel was sold in 2019, but new CEO Hame Anand had been acquiring clowns since age 14. And, though the specters held their peace during my stay, the ghost stories check out. “At first, I didn’t believe in ghosts. I’m a science guy,” Anand says. “But after a year, I noticed that everybody’s details are the same.” People from all over the world have mentioned hearing someone unseen whisper, “Where’s my baby?”

Next door sits a real cemetery, rock-lined graves and wooden headstones marking some of the town’s earliest deceased. A self-guided tour brochure at the boneyard’s entrance details tragic, almost cartoonish tales: Miner run over by ore cart. Sheriff shot by gambler. Gold-digging seductress who died on the lam.

The stories of horrific mining deaths are poor preparation for our next activity— hunting gems in Nevada’s rocky hills with Otteson Brothers Turquoise.

Owner Danny Otteson meets us in the parking lot of Giggle Springs convenience store. His hands are calloused from a lifetime of unearthing precious stones.

“I was the first Otteson born in Nevada,” he tells me with audible pride. His father started mining at 19 in Colorado, then made his way to the Silver State. The family now owns 30 turquoise mines across the state, and Danny raised his own kids out among the rocks. They sell the turquoise—raking in $350,000 a year in direct-to-consumer Instagram sales alone—and lead tours for those who like their acquisition more hands-on.

I picture a chilling plunge into a dimly lit cave, canary whistling by our side. But, though we’re asked to bring our own gear (pickaxe, bucket, gloves) and drive a half-hour down dirt roads, we remain above ground, on a mountainside fragmented by an excavator truck’s vast metal claw.

We root through granite hunks for flashes of blue as Danny tells us of a would-be turquoise thief chased from a mine by its steely owner. “He’s a guy you don’t want to mess with,” he says, like we’re in a movie.

A few hours later, we pass fields of cows with a sack of turquoise-threaded stone in the backseat, irrefutable proof that there’s still treasure in those hills.

The Haunted Mizpah Hotel

After fried pickles, BBQ, and excellent beer at Tonopah Brewing Company, we meet night-sky photographer Russ Gartz at the Tonopah Star Gazing Park. It’s cloudy, but we peer at the moon through Gartz’s Dobsonian telescope, named after John Dobson, an amateur astronomer who used to set up his portable but powerful equipment on San Francisco‘s sidewalks, inviting passersby to peek. “We try to bring that same spirit to our star parties here in Tonopah,” Gartz says. “Anyone is welcome.”

We stay that night at the Mizpah Hotel, a more luxurious but equally specter-plagued accommodation (Tonopah has plenty of ghosts to go around; another haunted hotel, the Belvada, sits across the street.)

Founded in 1911, the Mizpah has a well-documented roster of permanent guests: A murder victim dubbed the Lady in Red. Two miners, shot by a companion in a money heist gone wrong. A pair of children, their cause of death too gruesome to repeat. “[Sometimes] I feel them hugging my legs,” says Jessalyn DiMaggio, who works the front desk.

DiMaggio offers to take us to the basement, an epicenter of ghostly activity. Michaela declines, but I ride the creaky elevator down with DiMaggio, where ordinary hotel infrastructure like a laundry room and an industrial kitchen abut creepy, unfinished brick walls and dirt floors. Someone has set up little scenes—a rusty kids’ bicycle, a dusty dinner table for two— probably for the benefit of the ghost tours that pass through.

Later, I wander the upper floors alone, hoping but failing to spot strange shadows or an unoccupied chair rocking. I head back to the room and crawl into bed beside Michaela. Her face is pale and frightened in the dark.

“You’re so brave,” I whisper.

“You’re so fearless,” she murmurs back.

How do I explain that, when she’s around, I find fear somehow perpetually absent, her steadying presence a lighthouse in the midst of any storm?

Nevada’s Weird Roadside Attractions

The next morning, we begin the first leg of our journey home. As we leave Tonopah’s poltergeists in the rearview mirror, I watch Michaela slowly unfurl. A few more ghosts remain ahead, but friendlier ones. In Goldfield, Nevada’s International Car Forest of the Last Church, a permanent outdoor exhibition, skeletal, spray-painted cars and buses rise like zombies from the dirt. At the Goldwell Open Air Museum, a field of sculptures outside of the eerily quiet Rhyolite Ghost Town, artist Charles Albert Szukalski installed white-sheeted phantoms in a composition matching da Vinci’s The Last Supper.

We pass falling-down roadside lodging, bordellos with a half-dozen cars parked outside before noon. Even the gas-station-slash-extraterrestrial-extravaganza that is the Area 51 Alien Center—an obvious tourist trap—has its touches of seediness in the form of the fully operational Alien Cathouse Brothel. Is the Wild West alive and well here in Nevada?

It feels like it at the Pioneer Saloon, founded 1913 in Goodsprings, Nevada, a desert community on the outskirts of Las Vegas that’s half crumbling ghost town, half thriving rural hamlet. The saloon sometimes serves as a movie set, but today it’s riotous with locals and travelers, live music amped to 11. My grilled chicken sandwich is bone-dry, my rocky road milkshake transcendent.

We forge onward to Buffalo Bill’s Resort & Casino in Primm, Nevada. Western-themed, it has Sin City’s uncanny unreality: cowtown façades and fake trees amid flashing slot machines. While losing $5 to a Bonnie and Clyde game, I remember a quote I read in the faux-newspaper-slash-brochure left on our bed at the Mizpah.

“Any of us can go to Vegas and enjoy the illusion of wealth, pleasure, and decadence, but authenticity is in short supply,” the hotel’s owner, Nancy Cline, told the Mizpah Review. “In Tonopah, you are closer to the land, closer to understanding that life can be hard and tough. But also closer to appreciating the simpler things in life.”

If artifice is a place trying hard to be exactly what I expect, I found it. But if authenticity is earnestness—or grit—I found that, too.

It’s like falling in love. At first, you’re doing everything you can to be the person you think they want. But being in love is coexisting as your truest self—while, sometimes, conceding to journeys you’d never take without your sweetheart leading you toward them.

Miles from here, Tonopah’s ghosts prod or ignore a new set of seekers. There’s a ruggedness there that the plaster livery and Stetson-clad mannequins at Buffalo Bill’s can’t capture. Its people still work the perilous mines, serve eggs at its linoleum-floor diners, gather at its scant few bars. Everyone I met was a marvelous storyteller, weaving sad, strange, probably true tales. Maybe the false element was me, coming in to play at their daily existence.

Beside me, Michaela warily eyes an actual taxidermied bull suspended above an arcade. “Next time,” she declares, “we’re staying at the Bellagio.” Smiling, I take the hand of the girl who faced her fear of the dead to live this life with me. Maybe, in its own way, all of it is real.

The post Chasing Ghosts, Gems & the Spirit of the West in Nevada appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

Matt Furman

Lucianna McIntosh

Valerie Durham

Andrew Reiner

The post Photos: On Location With SD’s Top Travel Photographers appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

Traumatized by the tiny, goofy metal frames I was forced to wear as a nearsighted elementary schooler, after getting contacts, I stuck to plastic shades despite the climate guilt. But there’s a hot new material on the sunnies market—beans. Nope, not a typo. San Diego brand Saunt makes plant-based plastic out of castor bean oil, 3D-printing it into lightweight, stylish frames fitted with polarized lenses. Now both Mother Earth and my 8-year-old self think I’m cool. –AR

Blueprint for Movement

At risk of committing San Diego blasphemy, I’m not exactly outdoorsy—typically, my take on a day in the sun involves patio brunching or seaside lounging. Lately, though, I’ve been trying to make the most of the county’s natural bounty. Enter Go Deck San Diego, 52 cards printed with local spots to hike, bike, and explore. They’re packed with historical and ecological facts and suggested trails and color-coded by region, so all I have to do is decide how far afield I’d like to go, then I can pick a card, any card, to receive my adventure assignment. –AR

Family Travel

We’ve been discussing heritage travel—visiting places related to your ancestry—recently at the SDM offices. Personally, I’m itching to check out El Salvador to see where my grandma’s pupuseria once sat. And, while a vacation is one thing, actually chatting with my abuelita in her homeland is a totally different kind of adventure. This is where VerySoul comes into play. The platform brings together mediums from across the globe (including SD) to help you connect with late loved ones via 30- or 60-minute Zoom sessions. You can call from anywhere, in any language, bringing a whole new meaning to traveling with family. –NM

The post Editor’s Picks: 3 Travel Accessories to Try This Month appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

As Baja California continues to reinvent itself, Valle’s accessibility from Southern California, relative affordability compared to other wine regions like Napa Valley, and prized cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes have made it a hot-spot destination. 

Hector notes that planning a weekend wine trip with a handful of friends to Valle de Guadalupe is easy—with lots of little boutique hotels and rentals sprinkled across the area—but hosting a large event like a wedding or corporate retreat can be a challenge. He hopes to change this with Casa Nova, his hospitality lodging project with Joe and Jennifer Vaught. 

Joe co-founded San Diego hospitality company Verant Group with Eric Lingenfelder and Mark Cirillo in 2003, and the group now operates a number of concepts around San Diego and Arizona, including Barleymash, Mavericks Beach Club, Tavern at the Beach, and Sandbar. While Verant Group is not associated with Casa Nova, the group’s ability to manage multiple concepts across San Diego, on top of Joe’s previous experience working in wine and spirits distribution, means that if anyone can do it, this trio just might.

The property will offer a collection of guest houses and large-capacity outdoor event space that can fit up to 150 people. The main house contains six bedrooms and six bathrooms, while seven additional cabins across the property make it easy to host groups of up to around 35 people. Hector says the property is part of a development with 36 individual lots within walking distance, several of which have additional cabins available to rent separately, as well.

“They’re no more than 100 yards away,” Hector explains, adding that he is in constant communication with the development’s HOA board to coordinate future bookings for large groups. Casa Nova’s space will also have a commercial kitchen to provide breakfast and lunch to onsite guests, but Hector says part of the Valle experience is experiencing Baja’s local cuisine at nearby places like Fauna, Animalón, and Deckman’s. 

“There are so many great restaurants in Valle,” he continues. “We’re going to encourage them to go out and sample the cuisine.”

Hector says they’re nearly finished with construction, but staffing shortages have proven to be a problem. He hopes to be open come summertime. “The project is going to be nice,” he promises. If they manage to pull this off, it could be a big leap for Valle de Guadalupe.

Stay tuned for more details about this developing project.

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

The Barn House BBQ Now Open in Lemon Grove

San Diego is quickly becoming a barbecue town, with styles represented from Memphis, the Sonoran Desert, Central Texas, and Kansas City. The latter type has now landed in Lemon Grove at The Barn House BBQ, now open at 8099 Broadway.

Kansas City barbecue tends to be slowly smoked over a wood fire, then coated with a thick, sweet, and spicy tomato-based sauce for a messy (but delicious) meal. Pork ribs and beef brisket are popular meats for this particular take, but The Barn House also offers burgers, sausages, pastrami, pulled pork, and even a veggie burger.

Chef Yovani Palacios says he aims to put a “SoCal twist” on signature plates, like the Grove Burrito made with barbecue pulled chicken, smoked barbecue aioli, French fries, cheese, avocado, and pico de gallo. (Pro tip: Pack some extra Wet Wipes to avoid saucy joysticks in their 1,500-square-foot game and arcade room.)

The Barn House is now open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. 

Beth’s Bites

Speaking of barbecue, Daniel Vaughn (a.k.a @bbqsnob and noted barbecue expert) stopped by Heritage BBQ in Oceanside and Papalo in La Mesa last week. It seems the word is officially out on the San Diego barbecue scene.

Herb & Wood is doing the chef shuffle, with chef Carlos Anthony moving to Brian Malarkey’s Chefs Life TV and chef Mariano Rayon assuming the role of chef de cuisine. 

Local coffee chain Better Buzz Coffee Roasters is on a roll, opening all over the place from Phoenix to Bonita, La Mesa, Laguna Hills, Mission Gorge, and more. Next up, they have their eyes on Oceanside and eventually Las Vegas (they must have taken a page out of Brad Wise’s book of expansions).

The post New Valle Hotel Will Cater to Large Groups & Weddings appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

Would my colon therapist know that I didn’t meticulously follow my pre-fast instructions? I was supposed to avoid alcohol, caffeine, dairy, and meat for several days before arriving at this wellness resort in Desert Hot Springs, California. I had good intentions, but weak resolve.

The resort, We Care Spa, is serving as my home for the next three days, though many guests stay for up to a week. Daily colonics are the crux of the wellness programming here, but there are 40 different spa services on offer, from massages and body scrubs to facials and art therapy.

Upon arriving, I was welcomed with two orientation classes. The first walks guests through the daily drink plan, which includes a multitude of supplements, tea, juice, and a once-daily vegetable soup, intended to “detoxify” and heal the body with a nutrient-dense liquid diet. 

The second orientation was more spiritual. I was invited to set intentions for my stay, and I learned about the plethora of classes, treatments, and amenities available to support my personal journey. Guests can schedule a numerology reading with life path consultant Ronda, wander through a meditative stone labyrinth with a medicine wheel, or relax on a floating bed designed to echo the feeling of being in a mother’s womb. 

Personally, I came to get my insides cleaned out. I am generally healthy with daily bowel movements, but I’m a wellness junkie and have tried everything from cryotherapy to sensory deprivation Samadhi tanks. Colonics are my latest adventure.

My 20-something-year-old colon therapist, Eladia, is gentle with newbies like myself—a boon, considering that we get up-close-and-personal pretty quickly. She tells me that she gives herself weekly colonics, and we chit-chat through my entire 45-minute session. I learn that humans have five organs that eliminate waste from the body: the liver, kidneys, colon, skin, and lungs. 

Colonics are said to reduce bloating, relieve constipation, and release waste, bile, and debris within the five-foot long human colon. Once you get past the weirdness of watching pieces of poop floating by in a tube, it’s a relatively painless process. 

While advocates for colon cleanses, like We Care Spa founder Susana Belen, claim that colonics help improve energy levels, digestion, and immunity, others, such as Mayo Clinic and Cleveland Clinic, do not recommend colon cleanses, arguing that it can interfere with regular colon function and the gut microbiome. Many doctors say that the colon cleanses itself and that there’s no scientific evidence that colonics are helpful. I didn’t personally feel all that different after three days of colonics, although I was amazed they could still suck poop out of me after three days with no real food.

Post-treatment recommendations include drinking copious amounts of water and easing slowly back into your normal diet, first eating lighter meals with an emphasis on vegetables and fruit. For ideal results, proponents say, the cleanse should be a hard reset, a precursor to a long-term lifestyle change that involves fewer animal products and less alcohol and caffeine.

I certainly eat lightly during my stay. Twice a day, guests at We Care Spa receive a “detox drink” made of organic psyllium husk and seed, apple, fig, prune, and olive oil. A natural laxative, it’s meant to loosen internal waste. Like chia seeds, psyllium husk expands in your stomach, and the drink is a little gritty but sweet. Surprisingly, it does a remarkable job of making you feel full throughout the day and it doesn’t taste half-bad (though I would add cacao powder to satisfy my chocolate cravings). However, as a food journalist, I find the mundanity of consuming the same few drinks and supplements each day difficult.

In the evenings, we eat vegetable soup, a different flavor each day. We’re allowed to season our soups with Braggs liquid aminos, curry powder, oregano, garlic powder, and paprika—a limited palette for culinary creativity. Dinner is also the most social time of day, with everyone congregating at the Oasis House lobby for the meal. I trade restaurant recommendations with a friendly mother-daughter duo from Los Angeles, and we fantasize about what our first meal will be once we check out.

Guests receive massages and facials each day. In between spa treatments, I bounce up and down on a mini-trampoline outside my suite, which We Care says helps stimulate the lymphatic system. 

Many of the spa treatments are designed to facilitate colonics. The system recovery master treatment, for example, is a warm castor oil wrap combined with reflexology and scalp massage. This treatment can feel a little uncomfortably hot, as it’s meant to help you sweat out toxins.

I much prefer my deep tissue massage with cupping. My massage therapist Luis is excellent, leaving deep purple marks all over my back and shoulders that hurt so good and render my muscles limber and loose. It’s the perfect antidote to far too many hours hunched over my laptop. 

The executive suites are spacious and well-equipped with exercise equipment, a deep soaking tub with bath salts and body brushes, and outdoor daybeds, where guests can enjoy colorful desert sunsets and listen to howling coyotes. 

Overall, the program is lenient and can be customized however you choose. If you need more calories, there are protein shakes available upon request, and you can be as social as you wish or keep to yourself. If you’re at a period of transition in your life, We Care Spa is a beautifully serene retreat to reset, focus on your well-being, and do some soul searching. As for me—after three colon cleanses, I did feel a little lighter on my way to a glass of champagne to celebrate. 

Would I come back again? Well, I wouldn’t say I’m a colonic convert, but it was an interesting experience, and I’m glad I tried it. Taking three days to really focus on myself and my well-being was a really intentional way to start the year and a reminder of how important and precious my health is. 

I’m definitely more mindful about staying hydrated and chewing more thoroughly—it helps with digestion. I’m also eating a lot less meat these days, even if I do still indulge in wine a few times a week and I cannot refuse ice cream. The sensual daily joy I find in food isn’t worth eliminating entire food groups for, but I’m more conscientious about when I indulge. Balance, to me, is paying attention to my hedonist cravings while simultaneously caring for my body with water, sleep, regular yoga practice, probiotics, and massages.

The post Inside a Desert Hot Springs Retreat Focused on Colon Care appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

For our annual travel issue, I put together a wishlist of 10 recently opened or incoming properties that may be just as exciting as their locations. Since they’re all an easy drive or flight from SD, you might as well book your 2024 vacay now. See you by the pool.

Mexico | Oregon | Nevada | Arizona | Utah | Colorado | Hawaii | California

Mexico

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Cabo San Lucas at Cabo Del Sol

Opening 2024

The Cabo area is continuing to grow, with even more top-name resorts and high-end developments planting roots in the region. Last year alone, it saw more travelers to its beaches than ever (3.85 million), and it is now one of the world’s most popular luxury destinations.

So it’s not surprising that a new Four Seasons property is set to open this year. Originally planned for the fall of 2023, the brand’s sixth resort in Mexico is expected to launch in “early 2024,” according to reps.

The new hotel will be a “hacienda-style” village with guestrooms and suites, as well as residences, villas, and estates—all with views of the Gulf of California. Around the resort are typical five-star amenities, including a world-class golf course, a full-service spa, adult and kids’ pools, a swimmable beach, an open-air mercado, and contemporary Latin cuisine from executive chef Miguel Baltazar, with Mexican-born chef and restaurateur Richard Sandoval at the helm.

If you’re in the market for a second home, real estate options will start at around $4.8 million for two-to five-bedroom residences featuring private pools and 1,800-square-foot outdoor terraces

Rates: TBD

Andaz Mexico City Condesa

Opened January 2023

It seems like just about everyone has been heading to Mexico City in the last couple of years—and for good reason. The destination has evolved over the last decade, becoming a food mecca with a new wave of top chefs and notable restaurants popping up across the region.

It’s also an easily walkable city brimming with museums and historic architecture, especially in neighborhoods like Condesa, where the new Andaz opened last January. Set inside a 1960s-era Mexico City Heritage Site designed by Spanish architect José Luis Benlliure Galán, the property is the brand’s second in the country after Mayakoba Riviera Maya.

Guestrooms include brightly colored Mexican folk art sculptures, mosaic-tile headboards, paper maché piñatas, and record players with modern and classic vinyl collections—a nod to La Roma Records, the neighborhood’s oldest record store. And, for pet lovers, your four-legged family members have their own in-room amenities and a pop-up shop selling locally made pet accessories.

Above the hotel sits a Tulum beach club–inspired rooftop restaurant and pool with 360-degree views of Mexico City’s skyline. The seafood-forward eatery serves seasonal Baja and Yucatan fare while weekend DJ sets and agave-centered cocktails keep the party going late into the night.

Rates: From $222/night

Oregon

The Ritz-Carlton, Portland

Opened October 2023

When you check into a Ritz, you know what you’re going to get, which is kind of the whole point. Classic luxury, clean lines, fine dining, high-end amenities, staff calling you by your last name—it’s a formula and it works. In fall of 2023, The Ritz-Carlton, Portland—a nearly $700 million development in the center of downtown—became the PNW’s newest five-star retreat.

There’s a 20th-floor signature restaurant serving seafood from local fishermen. The enchanted forest–inspired lobby bar Meadowrue (named for the species of flowering plants known as buttercups) features a massive cedar tree trunk and hanging vines to really drive home its theme.

You’ll also find an infinity pool, a 7,000-square-foot fitness center, and residential apartments—ranging between $1.14 million and $8.9 million—if you’d rather just never check out.

Rates: From $515/night

Nevada

Fontainebleau Las Vegas

Opened December 2023

Like a freshly licensed teen behind the wheel, the Fontainebleau Las Vegas came in hot last year, making its debut on the Strip 16 years after it broke ground. After an ownership change, name update, recession, pandemic, and general life things, the $3.7 billion resort-casino is finally here.

With 67 floors (it’s now LV’s tallest building), the iconic Miami hotel set down in the West with its second iteration, featuring 36 bars and restaurants (chefs David Grutman, Evan Funke, and Josh Capon all have concepts here), LIV nightclub, seven pools, a spa, a 55,000-square-foot convention center, and a casino with all the bells and whistles.

Ten-time Grammy winner Justin Timberlake performed at its private opening celebration, which included celebs like Jessica Biel, Lenny Kravitz, Cher, Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, and Tommy Hilfiger. It was a big deal, since the city’s last grand resort unveiling was in June of 2021.

Rates: From $316/night

Arizona

Global Ambassador Phoenix

Opened December 2023

Restaurateur, 12-time James Beard Award nominee, and now hotelier Sam Fox opened his first property in December. Fox’s Global Ambassador Phoenix brings Paris to the West with a stacked lineup of investors, including Phoenix Suns basketball phenom Devin Booker, former Arizona Cardinals football player Larry Fitzgerald, and country star Dierks Bentley.

Dark and moody, this isn’t particularly the kind of place you’d expect to find in Phoenix (there’s no Southwest decor in sight). Design details include Phillip Jeffries wallcoverings, artwork commissioned by curator Michael Carson, custom walnut millwork, Matouk linens and Kassatex towels, and bathroom amenities by Byredo. All these goodies are said to have cost $1 million per room.

The real stars here, however, are the hotel’s four food and drink concepts, helmed by Food Network regular Eric Kim Haugen as the culinary creative, Dushyant Singh as director of food and beverage, and Sean Currid as executive chef. A Parisian steakhouse, the poolside Pink Dolphin, the lobby bar, and Thea, a Mediterranean eatery now claiming the title of Arizona’s largest rooftop restaurant, are all part of the wine-and-dine experience.

Rates: From $670/night

Utah

Le Méridien & Element Salt Lake City Downtown

Opened February 2023

One of Salt Lake’s newest hotels is actually a two-fer. Debuting as both the Le Méridien and Element Salt Lake City, the dual-branded property is the former’s first location in Utah and the latter’s 100th global opening. (Plus, this inaugural combo of the two brands is managed by San Diego–based Azul Hospitality Group.)

Although the sister properties share the same roof, they each offer their own unique experiences. Le Méridien provides a more refined, design-driven ambiance with custom-designed beds by Nick Dine and emerald green pops of color against neutral tones. Element has a sustainable approach and a more residential feel, with fully equipped kitchens and oversized bathrooms for long-term travelers.

The dual-pad property’s Adelaide restaurant serves French-and New Orleans–inspired dishes, while its rooftop bar, Van Ryder, has small bites and cocktails. But, since SLC’s food scene has been heating up for some time, it’s worth checking out some of the area’s restaurants, such as chef Nick Zocco’s Urban Hill or James Beard Award nominee Briar Handly’s HSL. And, who knows, you may just have a run-in with a Real Housewives of Salt Lake City cast member while out.

Rates: From $274/night

Colorado

Mollie Aspen

Opened December 2023

It doesn’t take much to convince anyone that Aspen is a good choice. But if you’re going to sway visitors to choose your hotel over the area’s other extremely luxe properties, you’ll need to jump out of the gate swinging—and Mollie came to play.

The 68-room hotel’s sleek Scandinavian and Japanese design influences meld with vintage 1960s furniture (Mario Bellini leather sofas, Roger Capron coffee tables) while Aspen accents peek through in the form of ski-themed books, white oak millwork, local stone and concrete floors, and hand-dyed textiles.

Guestrooms embrace the art of hygge, featuring warm color palettes and minimalistic décor—more quiet l xury than shimmering opulence. Led by Gin & Luck (Death & Co.), the hotel’s food and beverage options include an all-day café with après-ski bites, a restaurant and bar serving dinner, and a rooftop pool and terrace offering cocktails and light snacks. As a bonus, several snowboard and ski lifts are all under 20 minutes away.

Rates: From $349/night

Hawaii

Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort

Opened July 2023

In 2011, Kona Village Resort closed its doors after nearly 50 years on the Big Island as an off-the-grid haunt for Hollywood A-listers. Now, the historic property has reopened as the first Rosewood-branded hotel in Hawaii, spanning 81 acres. Taking care to honor the island’s long legacy of stewardship, the new Kona Village has a strong sustainability focus and draws its inspiration from Kaʻūpūlehu’s culture and heritage.

The property features 150 standalone hales and kauhales—traditional Hawaiian bungalows—with oversized lanais and outdoor showers, as well the property’s crown jewels: two $40,000-a-night presidential suites. Around the hotel, guests can view commissioned works of art from more than three dozen native Hawaiian and Hawaii-residing artists.

The village’s four dining concepts include the original Shipwreck Bar (it’s been said that The Doors’ Jim Morrison once drank 21 mai tais there in one sitting). The Kona Village Lū`au, spa, a fitness center, four pools, an outdoor activities center, and a daily 3 p.m. coconut cart serving complimentary drinking coconuts round out its amenities.

Rates: From $2,180/night

California

Pendry Newport Beach

Opened September 2023

When the very first Pendry opened in the Gaslamp in 2017, I remember thinking it felt very un-San Diego. It had east coast vibes: tartan fabrics, velvet couches, gold trimmings, voyeuristic glass showers visible from your bed, and a high price tag. It was the talk of the town.

Seven years later, the once-unknown brand has taken over eight cities, including Newport Beach, where it launched its latest property this past fall. With an aesthetic that is decidedly less New York and much more SoCal chill, the hotel’s nearly 300 rooms feature neutral color schemes, floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies, and waterfront views.

Onsite, SET Steak and Sushi by Clique Hospitality is one of three dining concepts, and Spa Pendry offers wellness treatments. The nearby Fashion Island makes it easy for those who hate packing to run across the street for their vacation digs.

Rates: From $485/night

The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern

Opened February 2023

Knowing that The Andy Griffith Show was filmed in Los Olivos, a quaint Central Coast town in the Santa Ynez Valley, makes this destination that much more charming. Around 30 minutes inland of Santa Barbara, the town harkens back to a simpler time when Mayberry was on our screens (or our parents’) in black and white.

It’s here that the newly opened Inn at Mattei’s Tavern has planted roots inside what was once an 1800s-era stagecoach stop between LA and SF and four cottages built in 1910. Though the property maintains its original Craftsman-style structures, it has gone through many iterations over the years (restaurants, bars, prohibition-era speakeasies) and is now a 67-room inn. There’s time travel in every corner of the hotel.

Go if you’re looking to reset and recharge. Adirondack chairs sit near fire pits, a greenhouse bumps up next to a flower and herb garden, and some of central California’s most popular wineries and tasting rooms reside within walking distance, adding up to a vacay as wholesome as Andy himself.

Rates: From $701/night

*All rates reflect the start of high season; prices subject to change

The post The 10 Best New Hotels to Visit in 2024 appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

Not white. Orange.

It may take more time, sure. But it all comes down to how you peel. I used to score oranges lengthwise five or six times, then peel back the skin, but this often proved to be a hatchet job. The peel would tear, and the pith would remain in mocking clumps. However, thanks to an old Palestinian man in Jericho, I learned a more efficient method.

His name was Shehadeh Dajani. He was in his early 80s at the time. We were sitting in his garden, some 900 feet below sea level. Jericho being the lowest city on Earth, it was capital-H Hot. The garden took up the large front yard of his property, where he and his wife grew citrus and olives and melons and such, the dusty West Bank road hardly visible through the dense foliage. We drank tea made with bergamot they’d grafted and ate salad made of vegetables grown mere inches from where we sat.

After lunch, Shehadeh asked me if I’d like for him to peel me an orange.

I’d never had another man offer to peel me an orange before. I am perfectly capable, I thought, but told him yes, please. Palestinians are arguably the most hospitable people in the world, so I took his gesture as that of a good host. Besides, he was 50 years my senior, so I was in no position to say no. And I’m glad I didn’t.

With weathered hands, he took his knife and scored a Jaffa orange around its circumference near each end, then scored the middle section along its longitude in one-inch sections. The circular tops popped off, then each little rectangle around the middle came off neat and clean. I’d never seen this done before. It was sorcery. And since that moment I have only peeled citrus in this way. Then I scrape them extra clean of any remaining pith, because again, an orange should be orange.

I was traveling in Palestine for work, not to learn kitchen tricks. But being there taught me this skill I’ll carry with me and will no doubt pass on to my son when he’s old enough to hold a knife. This is the blessing of travel: Jumping into the unknown gives us the opportunity to learn new things. Often, our destinations aren’t so much the place we’re going, but a fresh way of understanding the world.

In this issue, we’re extolling our love of travel and adventure. We’re getting behind the wheel, checking into luxury hotels, hitting a legendary local trail, putting our hands in the dirt, and dining at one of the most adventurous restaurants in SD, where scoring a reservation means a year-long wait.

And speaking of jumping in, on the cover—soaring like a bird—is local high school teacher Nia Hilton, who joined a stranger (me) on very short notice to jump from a plane when she should have been getting ready for her best friend’s bridal shower. Respect. When her bucket list beckoned, she answered the call. We hope this issue inspires you to head out and learn something new. So book your tickets, fill your tank, and pack your parachute. Maybe you’ll learn an even better way to peel an orange than I did.

The post Editor’s Note: How to Peel an Orange appeared first on San Diego Magazine.